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Hi chaps, I am just about to start to replace my engine..............Cough, cough!! Before I commence I have done the simple but pleasing things like clean and degrease the engine and spray paint it a rather pleasing light Hammer finished green........very smart, and adjusted the tappets etc. Whilst doing this I noticed the engine number: 12G940, and thought that it might be fun to know where this engine has originated from............. Any ideas? Paul Arkley SS 1972 MkIII "Paul T" 2226... MORE
Hello everyone Got a question The Midget has been for the last 2 or 3 weeks having a catch in 3rd and 4th. But to night all of a sudden it took off like a rocket. There is no more catch and it does ideal a little higher then were it was before ( 1000) Any ideas? Electronic ignition Just tuned up 4 months ago Thanks Jason Gross 1971 Midget 1275cc "Jason Gross" 2213... MORE
Hey Rick I think I was one of those who were lost. Jgross@... Thanks, Good luck and have fun Jason Gross 1971 Midget 1275cc GAN 5 UB 94654 G "Jason Gross" 2208... MORE
Paul 1340 is commonly quoted by racers (and usually wrong unless the engine is a short stroke) +.020 = 1293 +.030 = 1301 +.040 = 1310 +.060 = 1330 73.5mm = 1380 74.0mm = 1400 Do the maths if you don't believe me (or check out the table in Vizard) Regards James "James Bilsland" 2179... MORE
Success! Made up pressurised system with airline set at 30psi & bung in m/cyl. Blew in fluid.Jacked up front of car to get air in slave cyl.to bleed vent. Finally pushed slave cyl. piston back a couple of times to help air to vent. Steve. 72 midget "Steve Cowling" 2174... MORE
Hi James, Thanks, I too thought it was actually 1330 but I was told at Silverstone it was a 1340, still I believe you........so from now on........a 1330 it is. Cheers Paul. "Paul T" 2171... MORE
Well I've got an electric temp guage in my 1275 (1320 actually as its had a +60 thou rebore) and normal 65 mph driving, stays steady at 80 degrees - even driving fairly fast back from Silverstone on Sunday and boy was THAT hot, it only rose ever so slightly. At idle it rises to 80, and after a length of time starts to climb and can reach 100 especially in traffic jams. I shouldn't worry unless it starts to boil. GordonBParker@... 2181... MORE
What about mine. Bog standard 1275 engine 58k miles from new. I thought the temp gauge was US until I replaced the thermostat. I replaced it with an 82 deg one as I could not get an 88 deg one as in the book. Now it runs with the gauge half way between C and N what ever I do. Terry "Terry Isherwood" 2188... MORE
Funnily enough while you would expect a modified engine to run hotter than a standard one (more power = more energy = more heat) my experience is the opposite. I think that a well modified head must allow the engine to run more efficiently and at a slightly cooler temp... I would have thought about 80 - 85 degrees (celsius) about right (based on what your thermostat is likely to be). Anything up to 100 is OK in small amounts (i.e. traffic jam/hot day). Running over 100 for long periods of time is getting into shark infested waters... James... MORE
I usually jack the car up in the air one side and squirt oil between the rack gaiter and the track rod with an oil can... Last time I used chainsaw chain oil 'cause it was really thick and available at the time... (Oh I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK....) James "James Bilsland" 2159... MORE
Smelling Lotus (Loti?) - been there - usually they smell of burnt engine oil... James "James Bilsland" 2156... MORE
Any hints on installing a 1340cc engine in my Arkley? Any thing I should look out for or be aware of? Regards Paul "Paul T" 2152... MORE
Here's another little poser for all you experts on the list. What is to be considered an acceptable normal working temperature for a standard 1275 'A' series engine: a) under normal road conditions b) under sustained fast motorway conditions, say 65 MPH (FAST, I hear you shout....well you know what I mean) c) under normal tickover At what temperature should one start to get concerned. And finally, I am just about to replace my 1275 with a fast road 1330, will it.........run at the same temp...be cooler......or run hotter, and will the normal radiator be sufficient? Well I think... MORE
Marcus Edwards 1275 midget 1971 Cheltenham UK Marcus Edwards 2140... MORE
Peter It is probably not a good idea to drill and tap your block for 11 studs unless it is disassembled (swarf and engines really don't mix...). Use a head gasket for marking purposes for the extra studs. You can use an 'S' head on a midget engine without the extra studs. As I said to you on Saturday 11 studs are a good idea on a racing engine because of the higher compression ratio. This is not likely to be an issue on a standard spec CR engine. You should however try and work out what the CR... MORE
Ok, You have to use the spacer. That is a must. The good news it that your studs are not machined into the block, they are just a bit seized. Use some penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) and two nuts per stud. Tighten the nuts into each other and then, turning only the lower nut the stud should come out. Now for longer studs. Go to your local hardware store and find a piece of "all thread" that matched the thread size of the portion which came out of the block (the coarse side) and two nuts and lock washers.... MORE
Although far too much has been said on this subject, and I am not worthy to comment [No Spridget running or on the road] But, from my Morris Minor days I recall using lighter oil in the Dashpot. Also, taking Mike North's advice in Mascot a while ago regarding reading Mini magazines to keep up with A Series tuning - and in an article, they said at the end "Don't forget to fill up the SU dashpot with light oil (Penrite of some sort/SU dashpot oil/3in1 etc) and NOT to use engine oil. Someone the other week was asking... MORE
I have a '75 Midget that needs a new fuel pump. I have the old pump off and I'm struggling to put the new one on. The replacement pump has a curved arm - the old one was straight. The replacement pump also came with a 5/8" spacer. Here's the dilemma - I can't manage to get the pump on without the spacer - but with the spacer the bolts (which I assume machined into the block of the engine) are too short to reach through the new pump. Any suggestions? The catalog stated that the spacer was only... MORE
Hi Ian & Cathy, Mike et al .... When I go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/midgetsprite there is a yellow column on the left of my screen with a list and 3rd from the bottom is 'Polls'. You can access the POLL through there. Alternatively, let me know and I'll vote for you. (Mike, is it the London in UK, Canada, America, Tanzania or S. Africa?) Chris - NO - DON'T STOP, trying to follow you would be too hard! Keep it going, it's great. The midgetsprite group is one of the best around (OK I've got a sad life!)but this is... MORE
I checked in a Jaguar owners manual, engine oil is recommended for the SU dash pots. Roy Drake mark@... on 21/06/2001 21:53:53 Please respond to midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com @INTERNET@wtgw To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com @INTERNET@wtgw cc: Paper Mail: Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Oil recommendations *** WARNING *** This mail has originated outside your organization, either from an external partner or the Global Internet. Keep this in mind if you answer this message. Done some triple checking here as well... In my 1964 BMC Drivers Handbook (AKD3899C) it says exactly the same as Daves and makes reference to use type A in a table at the... MORE
I checked in a Jaguar owners manual, engine oil is recommended for the SU dash pots. Roy Drake mark@... on 21/06/2001 21:53:53 Please respond to midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com @INTERNET@wtgw To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com @INTERNET@wtgw cc: Paper Mail: Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Oil recommendations *** WARNING *** This mail has originated outside your organization, either from an external partner or the Global Internet. Keep this in mind if you answer this message. Done some triple checking here as well... In my 1964 BMC Drivers Handbook (AKD3899C) it says exactly the same as Daves and makes reference to use type A in a table at the... MORE
My 2ct... A: Only if money is no problem (so no option to me) B: Maybe as expensive as A (so no option to me), but take the spare engine also there for parts! C: Normally exchanging for a different type will cost much more than exchanging for the orginal (so no option to me) D: $$$$ You're a rich guy.... E: Could be a waste of your time (risky option but cheap) Good luck with wathever decission you take! Regards, Eeg. eeg.oberije@... 2073... MORE
Thanks Dave, I'll look out for him. If anyone else has replaced an engine did you swap the engine numbers so that the new engine becomes the old one listed on the log book / heritage certificate, or did you inform dvlc that the engine number has changed? I know which is the proper way of doing it, just wondered what was common practice. I imagine its pretty near impossible to get the old plate off the engine without making it obvious it's been messed about with. Mark. "Mark Hipwell" 2064... MORE
From: captaincog@... Reply-To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Oil recommendations Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 04:51:05 -0000 I pulled out an original book to double-check the recommended oil. DON'T USE ENGINE OIL!!!!!!!! The book actually recommends Duckhams 20wt, or equivalent. The equivalent by the way is either the SU bottled oil, 3in1 oil, Marvel Mystery oil, or the like. It is just a very thin, high detergent oil. Engine oil will turn those carbs into slugs! The purpose of the oil in the dashpots is just for light damping of the piston, to avoid flutter at extreme wide... MORE
No matter which way you take, bare in mind that It will be expensive. I hav e just spent about =A3600 on my 1275 engine, and a friend done most of the wo rk for free.=0D =0D =0D =0D Gary King (Newcastle UK)=0D 69 MKIV Sprite=0D =0D =0D "Gary King" 2061... MORE
