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Hi; I was hoping you will be able to help. I was out today with my '61 bugeye. First gear has always been noisy, today as the revs climbed, the noise became almost a banging from the rear of the trans tunnel? Noise disappears when shifting up to 2nd. thanks Michael (Iver28) Rifton, NY. mcmcsey@... 22680... MORE
Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load driving...like around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE
Men!! Get a Titan manifold and be done with it. You get proper fit for the application AND excellent flow...all for US$150.00!! I mean...there's "we tight" and there's "we foolish"....the best carb. in the world is not much good without good intake manifold flow and if it won't fit properly, the whole shebang is no good at all, despite what appears on the surface to be "thrift". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22630... MORE
What about taking a wedge shaped slice out of the mainifold pipes near to the head and getting them rewelded at a slightly reduced angle? Guy "Guy Weller" 22608... MORE
It could or you could fit a spacer, machined to a wedge shape. However the studs would then no longer enter the carb perpendicular to it's face. The kludgy solution to this is to enlarge the mounting holes in the carb. The correct solution is to redrill and tap (probably filling beforehand) the stud mounting holes in the manifold. After all this effort I'd have thought it would be simpler / cheaper to get a suitable manifold. Could the manifold face be machined at an angle to, in effect, rotate the carb, or does this not help move the... MORE
Not sure, but there might be a different small bore head on the Morris engine. The original Midget head has casting number 12G295 (1-7/32 Inlet, 1" Exhaust). Don't forget the 10CC type is stronger (2" mains) than the 10CG when looking or another engine. Cheers, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 22587... MORE
APT carries a Titan manifold over here in the States...but it comes from "over there" I understand. Maybe Daniel will see this and comment as I believe he is running a 1.75 HIF on his engine? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22592... MORE
it's not unknown for flexible hoses to collapse internally, and if yours have done so, I wouldn't recommend trying to clean them out, junk them and replace with new. If there is gunk in the solid pipes, I'd use methylated spirits (not sure of the US translation for this - ethanol? denatured alcohol?) to flush it through then blow dry with dry compressed air, as the brake parts cleaner might be a bit harsh if left in contact with the seals for any great length of time. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22579... MORE
Bree, I think you must be talking about a MAnifold Pressure sensor. If so it should be in a threaded "boss" in the induction manifold or in some tube attached to the manifold. I'm not sure of what I speak here, but a Haynes manual for that car would tell you. I'm a bit surprised that a car as old as an '86 would have a MAP sensor, but ............... Good luck & Rgds., Tony P. "anthony pooley" 22418... MORE
The advanatge is in not lowering the octane of the input charge with oil vapour. Especially important these days because of all the octane numbers we've lost in the years since the cars were amde. I must admit I cannot see the point of this when the running engine provides a good source of vacuum at the intake manifold that needs nothing more than a pcv valve and a bit of pipework. I just do not see the advantage of introducing additional complications and more things to go wrong. Don't misunderstand me - I have no case to say... MORE
Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE
Oh, yeah...forgot! PCV sysem: You are absolutely correct....the system should definitely be correctly plumbed... absolutely! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22362... MORE
Well, Chris... Intelligent routing of "ventilation hoses" (vertical travel) and/or a draught tube run off a "catch can" makes "liquid pollution" a thing of the past in any case. I don't know what everbody else looks for when they check their oil level at least once a week but, I know what I look for besides oil level. The reek of gasoline is all pervading, believe me! If you are not smelling this (it pervades the atmosphere around and within the car, especially on older vehicles which is our subject) or noticing a definite drop off in performance while... MORE
Bill B. writes.."Incredible". Way to go Bill. As long as the exhaust isn't blowing blue smoke, looks like you've got the problem licked...but keep an eye on the oil level over the next thousand miles or so just to be on the safe side....sounds like it's working fine though!! :) If you incorporate that exhaust fan idea, look for a "continuous duty" fan as I think Dave Stevens already mentioned. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22354... MORE
"Could you re-route.....to scavenge crankcase gases" Well, you'd be pressurizing the catch can prior to the draught tube or filter I guess. If the pressure was more than was present in the crankcase vent lines, it would pressurize these, as well as the draft tube unless you used one way valves in the lines from the crankcase to the catch can. If you could run the tube from the smog pump through the catch can and down vertically toward the road surface, you'd have a pressurized draught tube and by punching some small holes in the portion of the... MORE
Don... The smog pump injects air into the exhaust after the combustion process so no re-tuning needed. Whatever horsepower is lost from the engine (5?) driving the pump is returned to the driveline (yhaay!). Doesn't sound like much but as a percentage of what the engine normally produces it ain't bad, is it? :) We cut the manifold off at the fittings to the cylinder head and retained these, closing them shut with a drop of lead or solder...I forget what we used it was so long ago. Alternatively, you can find Allen screw/ plugs of the proper size... MORE
G'day all The clutch line is the same as the brake line. And use plated steel fittings. Now fuel pressure - that's an interesting topic to raise. SU carbies were designed to run with 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure, delivered as it happens via an SU fuel pump. With any more than 3 psi, the fuel can force it's way past the needle and seat in the carbies, fill the float bowl and flood the engine. You might notice the carby flooding, and change the needle and seat to solve the problem, but it is likely that... MORE
Thanks Bob, The gained hp is will be most welcome, even if there were none those darn pipes get in the way of working on the distributor and the smog pump in the way of the thermostat housing. Living in California where the smog wisdom goes like this . . .to reduce smog put MTBE a carcinogen in the gas that cuts your gas mileage by 10 percent and contaminates all the ground water. Don "Don May" 22337... MORE
"What about you, Cap'n Bob...." Right!! "What about Bob?"....Bob? I know just enough about everything to be dangerously ignornant of the severe mal-consequences of being in such a state!! Thus far, anyway! :) Talk about Peter Pan and "Never, never land"!! :):):) Fans for pulling heated air and vapors out of anything (including the engine compartment and crankcase) are just too intelligent to imagine!! In every respect, this is seems a great idea but, you better have a high capacity battery and/or alternator! Just kidding, Bob. Exhaust fans make perfect sense in all respects though with crankcase fumes, the... MORE
G'day Nigel Yes, use cupro nickel, unless you can get some of the original cadmium plated steel lines. Under no circumstances should you use copper. As you say, it "work hardens" and becomes brittle. We see this most often at the very edge of one of the fittings. There can often be a sharp bend or crease at the edge of the fitting, if unsufficient care has been taken when the pipes were bent. Of course, being softer, this is more likely in the copper pipe. The brake line is 3/16" thick wall tube (to take the brake line... MORE
Bill B. writes, in part..."Situationally unaware? Age 15! Same thing...:)" Exactly....and should the normal housewife have to worry or concern herself with a crankcase explosion as she ferry's the kids around or goes about her daily chores in keeping a household going? I think not! Chris's point is a valid one and well taken regarding a PCV system, the latter part of his post notwithstanding with respect to a change in induction method replete with non-standard carb. It also keeps the oil more "clean" with respect to it's "useful life" as defined by "contamination". There is always contamination of... MORE
Chris, Interesting comments. The standard UK set-up has no pcv valve, the hoses just connect direct to vent fittings on the carb barrels. I still feel that the term crankcase "vent" is wrong. It sort of implies that the purpose is to allow excess gasses from the crancase to find their way out. In reality, the system is a much more active "extraction" process, whereby the induction system positively pulls gasses out, creating a negative crancase pressure. Guy "Guy Weller" 22260... MORE
Hi guys I was originally intending to replace my brake and fuel lines with copper, but I've recently read that copper can become brittle through vibration. I'd like something more durable than the original steel pipes, and understand that Cupro-Nickel pipes are a good replacement over the original steel ones, albeit more expensive than copper or steel. Any thoughts on this? I noticed that the fuel pipe was a larger bore size than the brake pipe which I assume is 3/16", what size then is the fuel line - 1/4" ? And finally does anyone know what thread size... MORE
Chris... All of this is true but, I wonder how all those cars prior to PCV systems ever survived, including my much loved and long lasting VW Bug with it's long-lasting, "ventilated" GEX 1600 engine! Not to mention my beautifully running old 1098 that came in my BE all those other pre-PCV equipped cars I've owned including those two great MGA's of yesteryear, who's later varient got the add-on (not "integral" to engine spec. as in modern applications) system. I mean for sure, somebody should have told Henry Ford! :) Do you know how much gasoline you'd have to... MORE
"The oil fumes present in the vented (crankcase) gases...." Yes, this can be a "damned it you do, damed if you don't" sorta thing. That rear engine oil leak can become a real PITA though, and I can understand owners who's engines incorporate the stock "scroll" seal wanting to rid themselves of the problem and general mess. Back when I ran the normal intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed off the oil separator on my '67 "B", we had readily available at the corner pump decent leaded octanes and I never would have given this a thought. Matter of... MORE
