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I run a 1275 with 1.5 rockers,276 cam,semi race distributor and HIF44 carb.A BCA needle works for me BUT I did have to put back the manifold water heating to get smooth running below 3000RPM.Next trick is to go up and down a size,when I next get to play with it! Steve 1275midget "Steve Cowling" 15321... MORE
Steve- The fact the engine ran better at lower rpm when the manifold became warmed tells the tale, Dave. A little "lean" in the lower range but considering the "longer" camshaft, this is not surprising. Actually, you may have the best of all world's with the heated manifold as they cool off very rapidly when you put your foot in it, water-warming notwitstanding (temperature/pressure drop as velocity increases, blah, blah, blah!!:) So maybe staying just where you are gives you excellent part-throttle operation inclusive of maximum fuel economy while "water off" proves it's rich enough at the top end?!... MORE
I'm running close to your motor set up with a BDK needle, where is this compared to the BCA needle? It also is slightly lean at lower rpm. Jon carb.A BCA needle works for me BUT I did have to put back the manifold water heating to get smooth running below 3000RPM.Next trick is to go up and down a size,when I next get to play with it! "jon paschke" 15333... MORE
Bob, I turned to the guru of A series tuning for this, and David Vizards book reckons the airflow potential of the 1" SU should be good for engines capable of about 60hp or so. Over this level, the 1" starts to lose out but not by as large an amount as you might expect (on a back-to-back test on a bored and stroked 1430cc engine, a single 1" SU gave about 6hp less than a 1" at 7000rpm, but up to around the 70hp mark, there was no appreciable difference) This is because the situation is to some... MORE
Jon, If it's a 1" I'd try and find a 1" (HIF44) to replace it. I can't think of any 1275 applications that use a single HIF38 (1") though earlier single carb saloons may have used a 1" HS6, but don't know a great deal about them. However, if it's already a 1" HIF44 you could try the same needle used in 1275 Metros - which would be a BDL or BFY for the MG/HLS variant or a BEJ/BER/BFZ for the Vanden Plas/automatic/economy versions. Alternatively, 1.3 Maestros which were in quite a high state of tune for a saloon... MORE
Yeah, David- I agree with you as to power "image" for sure!! No doubt about this! I've got the alluminum head along with the Cooper "S" cam (advanced 4 degrees to favor the bottom end of the rpm scale) and medium bore LCB running through a the rear box (only) of an RC40. The 1.5 rollers add a little more to the cam profile with respect to the top end (don't want to kill this completely!). This state of tune was actually set up for a Judson blower but we've run into heat issues with this application....if they can... MORE
I cannot thank you enough for the needle recommendations for the HIF44 application! Wouldn't happen to have one around for a Cooper "S" state of tune, would you??! :) I agree with you in terms of a 1.75 over a 1.5 yet, there are 1.5 "single" kits being marketed and I wonder whether these might be more "flow efficient" for the stock, untuned Series "A" one finds in the Spridget, with the 1.75 single kits more suitable for "tuned" versions of the same engine incorporating larger valves and ports (or one of the new better flowing aluminum heads, valve... MORE
Roger If by turret you are referring to the transmission tunnel then its painted red as in the colour of the body. Does this make a difference? Dermot "murraysport" 15255... MORE
Before I get under a car on stands I give it a good rock, if it moves then the stands need doing again and wild horses would not get me under there (not that we have many wild horses in Hampshire except New Forest Ponies of course, I digress). Front end of the prop shaft (driveshaft) is an internally splined tube that slides into the back of the gearbox onto a splined shaft. Can be a bit tricky to get back on as it's down the tunnel. Either put it back on before the box goes in or check... MORE
Thanks David! I changed the album to a group edit so you can upload it. Unfortunately California's laws require my emmissions system to be fully operational. So my EGR valve must be connected and functional. I certainly don't want it operating all the time, so I kind of need some sort of valve there. I can't wait to see the diagram you have... Bela "beladona_13" 15009... MORE
Hello all, I was thumbing through my new VB catalog this evening when I found a part my 78 Midget seems to be missing. It appears to be the part that controls the vacuum supply to the EGR valve. The part is not labled or numbered in the catalog in anyway! I have looked all through the catalog and cannot find mention of it anywhere! I uploaded a portion of the catalog page into the folder called Bela's Midget. Can anyone identify this part for me? I know what to call it on an american car, but the Brit... MORE
Hello all! I was thumbing through my new Victoria British Catalog this evening when I came across a part that my 78 Midget seems to be missing. I found it on page 73 of the fall 2002 edition. It appears to be the part that opens the vacuum supply to the EGR valve when the engine is cold. On an American vehicle this would be called a thermostatically controlled Ported Vacuum switch. I can find nothing remotely similar in the catalog. Can anyone Identify this part? It is not numbered or labled in anyway in VB's catalog! Help! I... MORE
I was going to ask how well it runs when the tank is nearly empty, but I don't suppose you've managed to get that far! It's unusual but it sounds like the pick-up pipe in the tank isn't reaching down far enough - next time you've run the tank down as far as it'll go, disconnect the petrol pipe from the carb and let it run into a jam jar or something, and see if it's sucking air. (you can also check if the pump itself is delivering a good flow of petrol - if you go by the... MORE
I had the same sort of problem on my MK1 midget. The cure for me was to twist the feed pipe in the tank clockwise until I heard it hit the bottom of the tank. It was about 1/4 way around & wouldn't suck gas past about 1/2 tank Alex ' 61 midget COFNCAR "Alex Volk" 14907... MORE
That's what I did. I used a large pipe wrench to hold the pulley still while I broke the puley bolt loose. Worked pretty good. Make sure you oil the seal before you slide the shaft through. I didn't. Did it all over again 3 mos later. Good luck Alex ' 61 midget COFNCAR "Alex Volk" 14842... MORE
Well, Brad- I can see why you thought "head gasket"! Compression has changed, eh? OK, standing by. Let's see what replacing parts does. May be more than one problem occuring "coincidentally" in time. Then again, poor ignition could account for "cooler" exhaust temp. and lack of "pronounced" compression (presssure) as well. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14752... MORE
Well, David- These were "stock" cars but, I think you are correct in your thinking with respect to cam timing (overlap) in any event! :) Man, it was fun to see the expression on their faces when that potatoe left the exhaust system and "split" at high speed with a helluva "boom". The "victim" would literally jump about a foot off the seat! Now I've beome a "responsible adult" and can't "play" that way anymore..... "inappropriate behaviour"!! How boring!! :) Sometimes I wanna "go back to the future"! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14750... MORE
give him/her a hard time (like a particular teacher or something like that)? The "results" varied. Some cars just wouldn't start....others would backfire through the carb. Still others (these were the ones I remember best!) would start and eventually blow the potatoe out the exhaust with a sonic "boom", the potatoe tearing across much territory at what seemed like Mach 1.0 at the time! (Much fun!) So, I am thinking compression pressures (engine "health") must've made the difference in how each car reacted? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14733... MORE
"As it will with any car" Technically, this is of course, true. But this is a question of extent. How much "force" is involved to do this? Brad states he "placed" his hand over the exhaust - with respect to the immediately foregoing, how should the word "placed" be interpreted? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14728... MORE
Brad- While I agree with others that your problem is most likely electrical in consideration of the symptoms as you describe, there does seem to be another problem in addition to the foregoing considering you can shut the engine down simply by placing your hand over the exhaust (assuming this requires no particular "strength" on your part). Maybe time for a "mechanical" check of compression along with a leak-down check when you can get around to it? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14727... MORE
I was running down the street and the car was humming along just fine. A nice raspy exhaust note, and then, all of a sudden, it started missing and running like crap. I limp it home, it is sputtering and almost no power. I pull all the plugs, they are sooty, but not enough to cause this, I don't think. I look in the radiator and no bubbles. I don't know what this could be, I am suspecting a head gasket. What sayeth the list?? Brad Brad Fornal 14692... MORE
Hi, Pixel- Just got home from most recent trip and am reviewing mail so if you've no longer got this problem (I hope it's "fixed", just disregard this as I've not gotten fully through all mail so am not up to date. What kind of dizzy are you running with this motor. Port or manifold vacuum? You know where I'm going with this so enough said, eh?! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 14634... MORE
but if you fill it with anti-freeze mixture, you're wasting expensive stuff when it overfolws; alternatively, if you fill it with water, you'll be diluting the anti-freeze in the rest of the system when it gets sucked back in (what do you mean "I don't use antifreeze"?) Fill it so it just covers the bottom of the pipe inside, when cold. David "David Jacobs" 14572... MORE
My wife's Volvo 960 keeps loosing coolant. It started slowly, about a pint a month, and is now up to a pint a week. I've been all over the engine and cooling system, hot and cold. Not a drop. No sign of water in the engine oil or trans. Nothing inside the car from the heater core. The engine runs fine, compression good all cylinders, plugs clean, no steam from exhaust. I'm stumped. Any ideas?... "tloutrec" 14518... MORE
I have in my possession the intake and exhaust manifolds for a 78 midget. All I want them is a reasonable offer. I will shop. Contact me at pfeilmat@... Matthew Pfeil 76 MG Midget 65 Ford F-100 01 Chrysler Sebring LXI "Matthew Pfeil" 14511... MORE
