MAIN
Exhaust System
Previous Page | Next Page
Hi, can anyone tell me if the diameter of a 1098cc exhaust pipe (the main pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold) is the same diameter as a 1275cc one? Cheers, Gary King (Newcastle UK) 69 Sprite MKIV "Gary King" 7893... MORE
Thanks to all for the information and tips. Sounds like I need to check the matrix and heater box seals first of all. Then install some new trunking (or pipe) to duct the air. I=92m think that blowing more air through will produce more heat. Unless the matrix is very efficient, more air should mean more joules (or calories) per second =96 although the air will have less time to heat up. Hmmmmm, tricky. WRT pre-warming the car, I=92d feel slightly unhappy with a fuel-fired heater in the car. Kenlowe do a kit in the UK called =93Hot Start=94... MORE
TIm, I put the same VIcky B kit in my car, Christmas present from the wife. I used a 3M spray adhesie that worked well. I tried some other house brand stuff but not as good. The 3M is not cheap at $10/can. You'll need at least two cans. The secret is too make sure you've got enough on piece to be glued. I glued down everything except the tunnel where I used the old snaps and got a kit from a hobby/craft store to put snaps on the VB carpet. The really tricky part is the arm rest... MORE
When I installed mine last year, I didn't use any glue. Thought about it, but had such a difficult time getting the old glue off in order to repaint the interior, that I decided against it. I had used snaps everywhere. The only hard part was the transmission tunnel. I used 3 snaps on each side. It fits very well. I also installed a layer of insulation/soundproofing under everything. Now I can check easily for any signs of rust, etc. Good luck Bob Irwin rlirwin@... 7836... MORE
I'm starting to install my new carpet kit from Vicky Brit. It fits pretty well but I'm wondering how much I should permently glue in. So far it looks like the rear wheel arches, the rear tunnel and the verticle part behind the seats. Is this correct? Also does anyone know of the best kind of glue to use? Thanks, TimS '63 Sprite MkII Detroit, Mi "Summers, Tim" 7828... MORE
FWIW, the channel sounds like that used to hold the seal on the header rail of the Mk3 Midget (?Mk 4 Sprite) soft-top. If the dimensions are right (and you can get hold of some), you could use the sealing rubber cut to the appropriate length. If the sizes are wrong, you might be able to replace your channel with one off a header rail. Does the seal have sharp bends in it, or is it shaped to fit? I don't think the seal would bend to well... Charlie '72 RWA (First ever car, 2 rebuilds, 3 engines so... MORE
I wonder if anyone has pictures of a Mk2 Midget 1098 (GAN 3 ?) engine bay (right-hand drive) that could be posted to the Group. Mine has a few bits missing, but also some of the wires/pipes are not stuck down or routed properly, so I have no way of knowing what fixings are needed. Also, the bracket for the heater motor, which I got 'mail order', doesn't seem to be the right one - it places the motor too far to the right, so it clashes with the 'air-box'. At the moment I'm not able to take it... MORE
I have just removed, cleaned, and painted the Heater unit in my 76 Midget. Upon setting it back in place in the vehicle, I notice that the exhaust port (on the bottom of the unit) does not sit flush against the hole that feeds heat into the car. It seems to be a U-channel, with 3 screws on the front flange, 3 on the back, but both ends are open. Is there a reason it is designed that way? It seems that this allows hot air to blow into the engine compartment and engine compartment odors to be sucked... MORE
I want to add a Monza Free-Flow exhaust system to my '76 Midget, but I don't like the one that is made for the Midget, since it is basically the same "rear-muffler-turned-sideways" type as the stock Midget, except with exhaust tips at both sides. I would like to buy the exhaust system for a spitfire, which branches into two separate rear mufflers with thier own tips. (See http://www.triumphspitfire.com/monza.html ). I know that I will have to modify the mounting points... anything else that may hinder the installation of this exhaust system on my Midget? Thanks, Brett "Brett LaCroix" 7642... MORE
Depends on the size of pipe you use. On my 1380 I run the front timing chain cover breather linked to the front of the rocker cover then a larger bore (approx 3/4") pipe to the catch tank. It works on my engine - though I do keep it fresh with regular rebuilds. If the rings started to blow a bit I guess it might be marginal. Some racers seem to run breathers from every orifice which indicates to me that they should rebuild their engines more frequently... On a standard engine 1 breather should be fine. J "jamesbilsland"... MORE
Hi James, LOL, if he flogs the Aston then I can't inherit it !! Had considered this but want to try and achieve a "minimalist" look in the engine bay as opposed to the cats' cradle that it resembles now! Have come to the conclusion that I'll fit an oil breather filter direct to the rocker cover and then machine some plugs for the manifold, if I seal them in with something mild like thread lock I'll hopefully be able to get them out again if I ever need to........ AW "Andrew Worley @ Mi-King" 7520... MORE
A A neat way to do this is to run a breather pipe from the rocker cover vent to a fabricated aluminium catch tank which can be fitted to the panel on top of the passenger footwell (you can get them from Demon Tweeks). You then run the K&N oil breather filter on the catch tank. If you use braided oil hose and aeroquip ends it looks dead good (although its not a cheap set up)... (You could always get the old man to flog the Aston). Running oil fumes into the induction system is not a good plan... MORE
Brett, I have a 76 with a weber downdraft. I have the same set up you are looking at, downdraft, pacesetter header, and free flow monza exhaust. Even with the downdraft, the tuning instruction say disconnect the advance (which is probable a vacuum retard unit). And I am much happier with it disconnected. Running mechanical only. Now if I could have afforded it, I would have installed a sidedraft. (or if I could have found the deal you did) "Brent Wolf" 7521... MORE
I am trying to revive my H4 S.U. carbs which have been retired to a box in the garage for the past 30 years. Since the gaskets and washers have gotten rather dried up and cracked, I am hoping to do a complete rebuild but have run into a disassembly problem. The nut holding the fuel bowl came off easily but the hollow bolt that secures the fuel bowl to the body of the carb refuses to be removed. Since there is a "fiber" washer where the bolt joins the body I assume it should be able to be... MORE
I have a 1976 Midget that had a Stromberg carb in poor condition (and rebuilding it didn't help much, it was missing some parts.) Until yesturday, I was going to purchase a New Weber Downdraft conversion kit for $400 and use my stock exhaust manifold. Today, I have come across a used Weber Sidedraft Carb, w/ manifold, plus a Pacesetter performance exhaust headers. I have been told that the Carb is in good condition and I can get everything (including shipping) for $420. I am not sure if I would be better off with a new downdraft and my... MORE
Hi Gerard, thanks for taking the time to reply however the engine is the 1500 ('75 1500), I intend not to 100% block the vent but to fit a small pancake filter so vent may still breath even though not subject to an actual vacuum from the manifold anymore. TTFN, AW "Andrew Worley @ Mi-King" 7484... MORE
Andrew, By blocking of the vents from the engine, you run the risk of pushing oil out your rear crank seal and anywhere else it can escape. A-series engines have a fair amount of bore flex and a worn engine will have a fair amout of blow-by. The vacuum from the manifold helps manage the situation. Buy some new hoses and a PCV valve and save yourself some aggravation. Gerard "gerardchateau" 7483... MORE
Whilst we're on the subject of carbs etc would anyone be able to answer the following; I wish to ditch the take off from the rocker cover that then splits via the T-piece and plugs into the inlet manifold. Number of reasons being that the hoses are in a state and are cracked and crazed, aren't clamped at any point and I'm sure aren't helping therefore to maintain a constant mix/tune. Add to this the fact that I am also trying to "de-clutter" the engine bay. I propose to fit the cover take off with a small pancake filter,... MORE
How odd. I wonder if your heads were run with leaded fuel prior to their reincarnation as race heads- and now that impregnated lead has run out? Or maybe the additive you used was aggressive enough to strip the lead out of the seats? (on the 'unleaded' front, our first batch of unleaded was incompatible with a lot of rubber comounds. Like fuel lines for instance. There was a spate of spontaneously combusting Escorts and Cortinas since the fuel lines ran absurdly close to the distributor.) For some reason race heads seem to do better than road heads- perhaps... MORE
The heads were ordinary road heads from Midgets and Marinas before conversion but there isn't any possibility of 'lead memory' because I cut out the exhaust valve seats from 29mm to 31mm (or 32mm on my 'best' head). I put it down to good quality exhaust valves (21N stainless) bronze guides and very well 'lapped in' seats but I confess I don't really know the answer... J "jamesbilsland" 7471... MORE
It is possible that the Spitfire has a longer inlet manifold than the UK-spec 1500 Midget, as there is so much room under the bonnet of a Spit! The Midget manifold may have been made shorter to fit in the confined engine bay!! I recently bought a Head gasket set for a 1500 and the exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket had two holes in it whereas the exhaust only has a single downpipe. I assume that it was probably meant for a Spitfire...and following this assumption, it is also possible that the inlet manifold is different too. Dave "daveo138"... MORE
Growler Fair enough - IIRC you Kiwis have been 'blessed' with unleaded fuel much longer than us Brits... certainly the valve seat inserts I have fitted recently have been bloody hard... prior to unleaded fuel if a head had valve seat problems over here we tended to chuck them and source a new head so I haven't seen many 'older' type inserts I have been running super unleaded (which used to be 98 RON here) without additive on the various race engines I do for about 6 or 7 years. The heads run 31mm (stainless) exhaust valves and don't... MORE
Hi Tim I also have a 66 but I have a good 30mm gap between the tail pipe and bumper (even though the tail pipe is angled upwards). I put the complete system on about a year ago, whole thing only cost about ?30 (from the B-Hive) and was easy to fit, so it's provably not worth paying to have yours modified. My advice would be to check the brackets, there should be one attached to the rear box and another one forward of the rear box near the spring hanger. If the bracket near the spring hanger is... MORE
Dear Bree, Wow, you must be setting at the computer right at this moment, you replied to my message so fast. I spent one of the strangest several hours of my life (and I have had some very strange times), in Sheffeld Texas about 30 years ago. My wife (former) and two sons were on a round the country camping trip and I stopped there to get gas and some beer. It is a dry county and the woman in the station told me it was dry because people there were too mean and when they drank they shot... MORE
I'm joining this one late and I've not read all the posts but.... You should be able to get the standard system to fit without rubbing. Try rotating some of the joins to make the pipe and boc alter their orientations. Fitting a sprite exhaust pipe is an art I'm still learning after 15 years of ownership. Jeremy '63 mk2 Sprite "Jeremy Cogman" 7386... MORE
