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It's mentioned in "How to power tune MG Midget and Sprite for road and track" by Dan Stapleton, He doesn't go into it in great detail as far as I can remember but I'll look it up tonight if you like. It's something I'd sort of considered as Metro turbo's are so cheap these days. I've a feeling that you need to modify the midget bonnet to house it all as the single (HS4?) carb is stuck up on a high manifold.... "Stuart Toller" 5509... MORE
Brad, By coincidence changed mine today. Not leaking, but some small splits. Only =A34 a metre for Goodyear pipe from Halfords for those in the U.K. John jc691907@... 5415... MORE
Bob There have been a few designs of 8 port A series heads. Special Tuning did a cast iron 8 port head in the 60's (which also ran fuel injection) for the works Minis. The only 8 port head I have any experience is the Arden head which was designed by Jim Whitehouse for use on 850 Minis running in the (then) special saloon series in the late 60's. they produced over 100bhp and did over 13,000rpm back then... It is a cross flow head with the carbs on the 'ignition' side of the engine. The cam is rephased... MORE
Hi Everybody, My name's Martin Peake and I've owned my '71 Austin Sprite since 1982. However, its boy racer LCB exhaust fell apart in the snow of 1986, I went out and bought a Golf GTI and the Sprite's been in a series of garages ever since. A few weeks ago, I decided it was either sort the old thing out, or get rid of it. The body is fairly rotten, and I'm not convinced it's particularly straight anymore, so I've bought a partially-restored shell - all that's original is the transmission tunnel area. There's some welding to be... MORE
Anyone out there willing to part with an EGR valve? It really doesn't have to work, I just need one on my exhaust manifold so I can pass that damn smog test. Chris N. Ralieigh, NC 75 Midget cwn8382@... 5191... MORE
Mike Agreed - the only valid comparison would be with another car on the same RR on the same day, however throwing out bhp figures gets the conversation going.... Engine spec as follows: - 1380cc A+ 1300 Ital block, 73.5mm Omega forged pistons, EN16T Midget crank, balanced Cooper 'S' rods, ARP rod bolts, modified Midget flywheel lightened and machined to accept 7.5" AP racing clutch, crank & flywheel dynamically balanced, Kent 310 'scatter pattern' camshaft, Kent vernier duplex timing gears, steel centre main strap, Vandervell (Clevite) 'VP' main and big end bearings, baffled sump, modified race cylinder head, 11:1... MORE
I have bought from them no problems yet to start engine quality of work on inspection is ok and every thing looks to be as expected I have bought inlet manifold and exhaust and distributor from them so if not up to spec will be their problem and they know it - same purposeas self - I have gone for new half shafts from Peter May they look much moresubstantial and I have heard good reports - due to complete rebuild this month and run in over winter ready for next season. Peter Mays work is first class know... MORE
Well I finally got my Midget on the road. I fought the clutch problem for several weeks, but perseverance paid off. While it can be driven, I have another problem. The oil pressure starts off around 45 to 50 psi when first started but once it is warmed up it idles at 5 psi and goes to 25 psi when I drive it. I am going to keep it parked until I figure out the problem. I checked the oil over-presurization valve and am using the 20-50 oil and changed the oil filter after only 10 miles to see... MORE
Hi Bill, I didn't get many takers on my query a while back on the reverse. I have a Zenith Stromberg on mine and was asking whether I should leave it as is or swap out for the Weber DGV and Manifold I got with the parts car. Fortunately in upstate NY, the emission inspections haven't kicked in yet. "Stevens, David" 4980... MORE
I didn't get many takers on my question about converting my 79 Midget from a Weber back to stock. I see the Weber (DFEV) for sale for around $250-300 (not including the manifold which I also have). Any suggestions on someone in the Sacramento area who might be interested in swapping my Weber/manifold for the labor to restore the original setup? Bill cgpiper@... 4975... MORE
To Da Group and all, Reading all the messages about radios and tunes, I thought back to my problems with my Bugeye many years ago. I built a console out of Mahogany plywood over the tranny tunnel and up to the dash that included switches etc. I wanted to mount a stereo am-fm on the face of the console with speakers on the side. The big problem was, (ofcourse there is always a big problem), the car was a pos ground and all of the radios for sale were neg. ground units. I just insulated the radio from the... MORE
I just moved to North Carolina and they do dag-blasted emissions testing here. So I have to replace all the emissions components that someone removed many years ago. Does anybody have some tips? Or possibly parts that they have and want to get rid of? I need EVERTHING, air pump to EGR. Chris N. cwn8382@... 4878... MORE
Hi folks I would like to thank everyone for the help with my 1500 rebuild. It looks like everything is OK. Last night I fiddled with the timing and the carb. After much fiddling it idles fairly well at 1000 RPM. Right now the max advance is about 28 deg and at idle 10 to 12 deg. The exhaust note it a bit irregular but I expect with the cam. It reves up very smoothly has good oil pressure and holds that pressure when hot.I have a Monza exhaust and if it goes as will as it sounds I... MORE
Dan I got it to idle a little better last night by adjusting the Carb. What do you have your idle timing set at mine is 10 deg adv. Valve adj is as per Ted, 18 and 20. I have a Weber DGV. I will test for a manifold leak later today. Should the idle be set at 1000 and what type of exhaust note should it be smooth or with a slight lope and maybe a little engine rock. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 4806... MORE
Rick, I still have the scabs on my hand from bleeding our clutch. Couldn't get pedal no matter what until I levered back the piston in the slave cylinder to empty it. Out came a heap of air. If starting from scratch now I would bleed the system before installing the slave cylinder - just connect the hose into the slave, tie something into the other end to keep the piston right back, pump the air out of the line with the pedal, close the system, install the slave cylinder. The pro's assured me Midget clutch bleeding was no... MORE
How much work is involved in removing a Weber and manifold and replacing it with an original carb/manifold combo.? Obviously I can't have a daily driver with a Weber here in California, so I may as well enjoy a sluggish clean-air version rather than nothing at all. I have all the pieces (I think). Is it a matter of just reinstalling the original setup and then tuning the carb? cgpiper@... 4751... MORE
Just pack the gears in the pump, not the pick-up pipe. If there other ways to fill the 'un-oiled areas' use them. Before you start ruinining in the engine at 2000rpm leave it to get warm for 5 mins first! Try contacting the maker of the cam and see what they say yourself. Don't forget to let them know it is going in a re-built engine, not just a replacement cam in an 'old/used' engine. Hope it helps Outcast A-H Sprite IV grday@... 4747... MORE
Outcast Good info this will really help. I think I will go with the starter and hope the pump works. I will prime the pump so I hope that works. As you sa y it may be tough to keep your foot out of it. I milled the head .080 put in a TSI275 cam and over bored it .020 so I need to run it in correctly and overcome the temptation to mash the loud pedal. It=92s also running a Webe r with headers. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 4730... MORE
I guess I'll hold off on the wire wheels for a while. My main thing would be to get it running and then work on cleaning it up. The engine is very confusing to me... I bought the Bentley manual but it doesn't quite have the detail I need. I'll look for a Haynes and Chilton book and see if they're clearer. There's some sort of pipe coming down off the rear of the engine that seems loose, and I would just like to make sure everything is hooked up before I put a little fuel in it and... MORE
I've been reading through the messages (about halfway through.. Wow, that's a lot of messages in the archive!) trying to get some basic info. I just acquired a 1979 Midget for a VERY reasonable cheap amount. I know the previous owner, so the information I have on it is accurate. Here's the info, and here's the question: The original manifold and carb have been replaced with a Weber and I'm told that the performance was greatly increased. However, it was 'fudged' through the California smog check that last time it was registered (1989). My understanding is that it would... MORE
Arnold- Oh, stock Metro! OK You already have recommendations for "basic" needle strarting point I previously sent you along with jet and spring rec. as well and know turbo-Metro set-up is suck through from prior mail as well. So, you are off to fine start. Understand you are fabricating a manifold a la the Dean approach. Good show! Yes, Arnold, do keep me advised and I will get the Aldon advance map to you over the internet ASAP, I promise. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 4705... MORE
I had this problem in my Sprite (1275) for years, eventually went away when I changed from carbs with no breather connection (and consequently having to breath into the manifold) to carbs with a breather connection. "Jeremy Cogman" 4640... MORE
My favourite would still be valve guides - did you get the 'Cooper S' type valve seals (rubber 'hat' as opposed to rubber 'ring'). were the guides replaced when the engine was done? There is obviously a blob of oil getting into the engine somehow - does your breather run into the carbs or manifold? If you set up your breathers so it breathes into a catch tank it might solve your problem? Make sure you seal off the carbs/manifold if you do this... Oil consumption is a bit of a worry - might be guides or just lack... MORE
Dave It sounds to me like your engine is sucking air somewhere... (vacuum leak as you indicate) I suggest you check the carb gaskets and that all the breather hoses and vacumm advance pipes are in the correct place. I'd ignore the plugs until you are sure you have a sealed inlet system. It is quite possible that a '67 car would be sold in '68 - they used to sit around at the docks for quite a while... Conversion from positive to negative earth is a common modification - especially if you want to fit a radio/cassette/cd player.... MORE
If your return springs are setup properly to hold the butterflies closed. Check the PCV valve to se if its closing and not wide open(major vacuum leak) Paul Van Wig Long Beach, CA 60 Bugeye 60 Morris Woody 61 Morris Pickup 01 Dodge Cummins Ram "Paul Van Wig" 4626... MORE
