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Roger Thanks for the info: As far as I can tell I think I had solved it! Under test bed conditions, fired up in the workshop, its now tight. Action taken to solve problem was similar to your. Introduce three breathers, Crank case, rocker cover & F/T/C/cover. (remove filter in the front cover first) & run to catch tank. Also, meticulously cleaned the oil scroller, make sure the top 'arch'seal is flush and sealed flush with the backplate. Check half moon seal at end of sump and ensure that it clears the pressure relief valve return pipe back to... MORE
I too much redo the weather stripping around the windows in my 79 Yellow monster. I am also thinking of putting on one of those exhaust systems, they look like the Abarth systems from the 60s and 70s? Anyone have any experience with them, the stock system is getting rusty and won't pass the PA inspection (MOT). John Poynton Havertown, PA teachjp@... 1888... MORE
K&N's but with a twist. Breather's again: Now that I have drilled a hole in my block, rocker cover and removed the filter from the F/T/cover I have three ! Should I route all three to a catch tank (maximum breathing?)OR run each with a K&N filter (they do a special breather pipe unit) Or Crank Case to catch tank and run the other two on K&N's If catch tank used, does it cover everything in a fine oil film as it breaths (tank in engine bay) ? Finally re fitted my Peter May seal AFTER ensuring that the... MORE
I filters Running an engine slightly lean doesn't give the same symptoms as fuel starvation. Its not a good thing for exhaust valves and piston crowns however... You can check the mixture by looking at the spark plugs after a long run - light brown deposits on the ceramic below the electrode is ideal - if the ceramic appears to be white then you are probably running too lean. Another (crude) way to check is when driving at a constant cruising speed (with everything warmed up) pull the choke out a small amount - if the car accelerates slightly... MORE
Hi 'listers'/ Jim Fast road IoW Frogeye I have 330lbs rated at the front, lowered 1" married to Frontline's mono shock conversion. Coilover units at the back on a trick set-up with custom springs (longer travel), rated at 140Lbs. Trying to keep the back on the road at least 50% of the time! Ref Mike's comments on getting springs made. I agree, not as hard as you would think. I was able to quote steel grade, thickness, travel, number of coils and load in Lbs. They do it all the time and can help you spec. However it helps... MORE
I just installed K&N filters along with LCB headers and a tuned exhaust, and needed to change from the standard needle to richer one. All the suppliers sell needles, but the correct one depends on which engine you have. For instance, in my 1098 the standard needle is (I believe) "AN" and the upgrade is a different letter designation which I can't recall. In any event, I wouldn't recommend changing the needle until you've driven with the filters and the engine sounds like its starved for fuel. "Alex del Russo" 1830... MORE
Mark It might be the hydraulic pipe connection to the clutch slave cylinder. On my car this was a rigid pipe formed into a coil to absorb vibration, but after years of vibrating without me knowing what was causing the noise, it suddenly stopped while on a motorway journey. I thought "thats good, nice and quiet now", but when I next came to use the clutch I didn't think it was quite so good. One learns clutchless gear changing very quickly in such circumstances. There is now a flexible hose in the pipe run. The noise was independant of... MORE
If you are looking for drivability and not concerned about it looking correct for the era, check www.minimania.com they have a compressor that comes as a kit part # SPC100 (belts, carb, manifold, and compressor) for $3995.95. But I have seen it on sale for $2995.95 in the past. It seems like a good package but I could buy another sprite that needs some lovin for that. Chris Chris@... 1725... MORE
Dear Miget-Spriters: Please allow me to cross post this from the MGB group in case someone is interested. Thanks for the bandwith: I decided to sell my B! It is a brit racing green 67 in clean daily driver condition. No rust. Originally from CA always garaged. I have owned the car only since earlier this year and I brought it back on the road after it sat for 2 years with the former owner. It is ready for the summer now! Here are all the facts that I can think of. I will take some digi pics tomorrow... MORE
Hi chaps, Only just got around to reading load of mails... I tried wrapping a brand new 4 branch manifold on my 1500. It cracked in a short length of time (can't remember how short). Replaced it another minus the wrap and no probs. First one could have been faulty though. Also heard a story of somebody taking a wrapped manifold off an engine, and not being able to put it back on, 'cos it had warped so much. Plus where is all that heat going - not all of it is going to exit out the exhaust is... MORE
Thanks for the tips guys. Unfortunately Spitfires use larger carbs (948 TC Heralds and Sprites use SU H1 1" 1/8) and the off the shelf Spitfire/Midget shields will not fit. I've ordered some exhaust insulating wrap from Demon Tweeks which I will wrap the manifold with. Its supposed to lower under bonnet temperatures by up to 70% (some hope!!) and if this is not enough - I'll make some larger shields using aluminium sheet. I'll let you know how the wrap performs...... Jez Jez@... 1652... MORE
Actually, I'm a Triumph owner! But my 1960 Triumph Herald coupe has one thing in common with a frogeye (bugeye) Sprite and thats the twin SU H1 carbs. The problem I have with the carbs is overheating - which causes the fuel to boil. I'm going to try exhaust insulating wrap, but I'd also like to get some modern heat shields. Does anyone know if anyone produces heatshields for H1 carbs, or anyone know where I buy the material to make some myself? Any help is much appreciated..... Jez Jez@... 1629... MORE
But what about the gasket between the pump and the block? Spends its whole life soaked in old oil at 80 psi without any filter and is only held tight by the two (or three, or four?) skinny bolts on the A+. The cover isn't any help and by the nature of the design it is not feasible to retighten the bolts. In theory the displaced oil would run through the hole into the back of the block. But if the backplate seal is also gone west, the oil would run down towards the scroll. One of the production... MORE
Bought a nifty piece of kit off of a Rover 2300 SD1. Extension pipe to allow me to fit a pressure gauge and a pressure failure switch to the oil system and to mount it next to the rearmost stud on the cylinderhead. I fitted a 22psi switch and a flexible nylon hose but it unfortunately highlighted a small problem. It seems the car gives 80psi when cold at idle. Tried another gauge. Same result and the same (22psi) point at which the large dash light lights up after switching off the motor. So, the question is.....can 80+ psi... MORE
Of the carburetors, the downdraught Weber is the most modern. It has twin chokes that open sequentially, so when you open the throttle the first barrel opens up and at half throttle the second opens up. This allows for good low-end drivability and fuel economy and starting as well as top end performance, in one package. The drawbacks are top end will never be what you get out of a properly tuned sidedraught Weber, but for this choice you pay at the pump. Also, if you are into induction roar, nothing beats a sidedraught, man I love that sound!... MORE
You know the things, right? Brass body with 5 pipes and an electrical connection. Fitted to Marinas and Itals, Sherpas, 1500 UK Midgets etc etc etc. So.....which pipe goes where? Unit was cut out of the car by PO. Guess that split is front - rear. Two outlets to the two front brakes? One to the rear? Just rubber O-rings to make the seal? What if one fails. Does it allow fluid to blast out the switch, or is that a bit far fetched? Metro uses two separate bias valves on a dual circuit system to give failure protection... MORE
Bob As promised the gospel according to Vizard... The 'Evacusump' system "The system draws air out of the crankcase on the engine so as to reduce the pressure in the crankcase.... ...at idle, intake manifold vacuum is used to draw a vacuum on the crankcase . Depending on the intake manifold used either 1 or 2 PCV valves can be plumbed into the crankcase at the rocker cover. When an intake manifold vacuum exists air will be drawn from the crankcase via the the valve cover and the fumes will simply be burnt in the combustion chamber. When the... MORE
Paul Sounds like you have an air leak in there somewhere - dismantle the carbs again and check you have all the gaskets in the right places - also that the inlet and exhaust manifolds are fitted properly and that the fixing nuts are tight. Regards James Bilsland Charing UK "James Bilsland" 1414... MORE
Paul Not related? Made in the same factory! (bigger brother?) The MGB uses a similar inlet manifold to the Midget (just bigger) The SU manifold has a 'balance pipe' across the two inlet tracts and so mixture from the RH carb can go across to the LH inlet port and vice versa. Why this should upset a colour tune I don't know... Regards James Bilsland Charing UK "James Bilsland" 1413... MORE
Anyone know if clour-tune can be used on MGB GT 1800 engine, I've been told I can't because the twin carbs feed the engine through a manifold that is shared by all four cylinders, can this be true? Puzzled, Paul. paul@... 1412... MORE
Here is a strange one chaps! I have recently removed the carbs, "HS2's", so that I can get a the manifold to fix a minor leak. I have subsequently re-fitted the carbs, and ever since I now get, what appears to be a single explosive backfire on switching off the engine. This suggests to me that fuel is somehow getting into the exhaust manifold, can this be true, and if so how did it happen? I did not alter any settings on the carbs at all, when re-installing them. Could it be that somehow the choke is not closing... MORE
If the valve dimensions are right on a 1300 valve (i.e valve seat to collet) then use a 1300 race valve (EN21 stainless) as the standard exhaust valve is a horribly shaped thing... I have Paul Ivey's telephone number somewhere if necessary. Regards James Bilsland Charing UK "James Bilsland" 1378... MORE
Flat plate like a fuel pump blanking plate but a large bore stub comes off it at 90 degrees. This connects to a large bore rubbery pipe that acts to collect and drain the oil that runs through the turbo bearings. It is a downwards drain that catches the hot oil from the bearings and dumps it straight into the sump. Uses a standard fuel pump gasket. I used one of these vented to the air via a nasty cheap filter. Changed it later for a breather canister from a Rover 2300 which looks identical to the ones used... MORE
Listers, Just had to find an intake valve for a local racer. Valve was for a 948 with the large valve head (1.156"), but used the later 1275 type collets/keepers. It appears that the 1275 Exhaust valve is useable for this as it has the correct dimensions and keeper. Any reason not to use a 1275 exhaust valve for a 948 intake application? My thinking is that the materials would be OK (I wouldn't do the reverse using intake for exhaust). Opinions? Thanks. Peter C "Peter C." 1374... MORE
Hi Tim If the rails you have mount to a pipe frame on the bottom.. they will probably fit.. I believe with out looking.. they should be around 14" and have 4 holes for mounting.. if they are even close I can modify them to work.. Let me know. Thanks Bryan gan 5ue 74' mkIII (crome bumpers) derby@... 1322... MORE
