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G'day Brad etc What size slave cylinder do you have? The 948cc and 1098cc cars used a 7/8" bore cylinder, with a 3/8" UNF hole for both the (solid) clutch pipe, and the bleed nipple. I have these for $### USD plus $5 shipping. The 1275cc cars used a 1" bore cylinder, with 7/16" hole for the flexible clutch hose. These ones are about $&&& USD, same $5 shipping. But I use the smaller slave cylinders on all cars. You get a slightly harder pedal, but longer travel at the business end. You just need to make up an... MORE
I concur with David on this one.....this is precisely what I plan to do with my 79 when the time comes....although I have a design for the exhaust pipe that will considerably increase the clearance between the pipe and tera firma as it passes down under the chassis rearward....unfortunately the drawings I have are in VISIO format. Not a piece of software that many people have. Otherwise I would post it on the website. If anyone has Visio, and would like a copy....I would be glad to forward a copy. This design incorporates a length of 1/2" X 4"... MORE
The 69 midget I am working on came missing the exhaust pipe and muffler so I am not sure what diameter the exhaust pipe was. By measuring the hole diameter of the exhaust flange it would appear to be 1 3/4 inch. Is this correct? I want to rig up a temporary muffler for the least expense possible just for testing the engine. I think my neighbors would appreciate that. I don't have any old mufflers around so have to go buy a cheap one somewhere. Don "Don May" 17504... MORE
I don't know what the US accordion types are like but at least some in the UK are abysmal. After two that failed after less than 10k miles I gave up and now use straight pipe and have never had to replace one due to failure though I do it routinely when the head is off. I now have a Metro head and no bypass hose, hurrah! jeremy.cogman@... 17492... MORE
On the wrecked Datsun: some of the ignition systems have a black box on the inside of the car, passenger side footwell. My rusted out 78 has one. Check the Datsun 210 Yahoo group for what parts the Datsun guys are looking for. I remember that the shifter console was a hot item. Be sure not to lose the bolt/nut that holds the gearshift lever in. It is a special piece, available only at the dealer. I am looking at the radiator to see if it will fit in my MG when I put my Datsun A14/5spd in my... MORE
Knowing exactly what you mean about the great sound of the A series, I have just had the first go at capturing this 'sweet sound of success' on a recently created web page. If you go to http://users.bigpond.com/ortonp/midget_and_healey_wedding.htm and click on the words 'throaty sound' near the bottom of the page you should hear about 10 seconds of 1275 exhaust note. The sound file takes about 20 seconds to load when a console pops up - hit the forward button. Cheers, Paul Orton. "Paul Orton" 17430... MORE
I would remove the air manifold and plug the holes in the head. but if you're going to keep the air manifold on then I would also keep the check valve on. I ran mine that way until I pulled the air manifold. Also you can, if you wish, bypass the charcoal canister. Jay Shaffer 17340... MORE
It is that cross member that the steering rack and the transfer pipe are attached to that is bent back on this car. The previous owner must have hit some deep pot holes or curbs because that tubular cross member is bent inward about a quarter of an inch or more toward the engine making it almost impossible to remove the belt. There is no sign that the car was damaged from stricking anything with the bumper. That is why I am thinking of parting out the car because I do not want to invest the money to cut... MORE
Terry Horler's book gives the reason for the change as being to make room for the air injector pump and associated gubbins. The transfer pipe for the crossflow rad is actually a separate item from the steering rack but is fitted to the same crossmember mountings. Regards David "David Jacobs" 17316... MORE
Don, you can use either radiator with the 1275 (the change came part way through 1275 production), but you will need to use the thermostat housing which matches the rad - the crossflow one has a pipe pointing to the left, the vertical flow to the right. As to which one is 'best', I don't think there's a huge difference in cooling performance so if you are going for 'original appearance' use the vertical flow one, or if you're not bothered, use the one in better condition! Cheers David "David Jacobs" 17314... MORE
A happy new year to you Bob and everyone else. Thanks for the tips. Seeing that it is so easy to remove the gas tank and after my experience with the 63 tank and fuel lines I went ahead and took this one off to clean it. I have a background in electronics so play around with most electrical things but in the future will go with a solid state one. Points and contacts are a curse both in Sprigets and old radios which I restore. Would purchase one now but you know . . . retired, lots of... MORE
okay, I've removed the air pump and check valve from my '79 1500. Should I just block off the line from the check valve which goes in to the exhaust manifold ( it appears)? And will this require rejetting the carb? It ran almost perfect before and ran better with the air pump belt removed...any other Ideas on what I can pull off to make it a better, non-emission-impaired engine? thanks in advance... BTW, I live in a non-emission checking state. On the East coast of the US. And the car emits nothing as it is, so if I... MORE
Well, shes been sitting for 8 to 10 yrs, only my aging back caused me to quit driving! British Racing Green(originally mallard green)with tan seats. Heres my plan, Squirt marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes to prepare the engine for a hand turnover via the fan blade bolt and a long ratchet(hope its not too hard to turn). I tried inflating to flat tires and only two inflated. I guess I will have to take the wheels off to get the other two to inflate as tubeless bead arent making a good seal, maybe I can just... MORE
It's like I have always believed. We could build cleaner, more efficient cars if we weren't mandated to still use 70's clean-air technology in today's cars. Tell me you couldn't take a new Honda, pull off the two cats, triple EGR system, smog pumps, and all the other related crap and just lean the system back out (richened because of the MTBE and to save the life of the cat) and not end up with a more efficient, simpler, and cleaner running car. Israel "Israel Engle" 17120... MORE
Steve- Sounds like they crushed the exhuast system....I've had this happen when the car is not carefully placed on the lift before being raised. Now you are probably hearing normal valve lifter noises "through" an exhaust leak caused by the above-mentioned, which would also account for all the other "noise" coming from the engine compartment. The accelerator cable will sometimes get "hooked up" on it's little metal end as it goes onto the heat shield in the engine compartment. This would account for a sudden way higher than normal idle. You might check that all throttle return springs as... MORE
Steve, I am based in Leeds and have recently just done a full clutch job and engine build. If I can help please contact me. Where did you get the job done and what did they say they have done. Sounds like they have put it all back together without any care as most symptoms sound like basic setting up ie unsealed exhaust connection, timing and possibly tappets. "Peter Whittle" 17066... MORE
1) Does it sound like nuts and bolts rattling in the cylinders? If so that's 'pinking' i.e. pre-ignition and this can wreck your engine because it will generate loads of heat that can melt pistons and burn valves. It can be caused by quite a few things but a likely source is excessively weak mixture. 2)Is the exhaust noise from the engine bay or somewhere along the pipe. 3) You are right, a standard 1275 should idle at 1000 or a bit less. No A-series however highly tuned idles at anywhere aprroaching 3500. Again fast idle can be a... MORE
Hello chaps We recently had a clutch problem with our Mark IV (1967) so she went in for some (very expensive I might add) work. Now she's come back, there seems to be a whole new set of problems that weren't there previously. Before I go back to the garage and ask them what the deuce they think they've done to my baby, I'd like to be as well-informed as possible. The symptoms are: 1. Quiet chinking noises from the engine, which get faster as I rev her up. My next-door neighbour suggests it might be the tappets, either... MORE
I presently have a copy of the Bentley's Complete Official 948 cc & 1098 CC Sprite/Midget manual I use for my 63 Midget. I now have a 1275 cc engine to work on. Aside from the emission control stuff on the engine is there enough differences between the 948/1098 cc engines to warrant spending $40.00 for the Bentley manual that also covers the 1275 cc engine? What are the differences between the 948/1098 cc engines and the 1275 cc engine? I have a Haynes manual that does cover the 1275 although I prefer the Bentley manuals. Don "Don May"... MORE
Don- If all you are going to do is remove the air pump, you need do nothing in terms of tuning, Don. Neither the crankcase recirculation or closed circuit crankcase intake system (via the fuel tank with specific size orifices for crankcase and outside air "breathing") cost the engine any power. And while I personally have to have oil vapor circulated into the combustion process, there are benefits to this including cooler running and relieving the crankcase of "positive" pressure, thus taking the load off the seals in terms of oil leaks. What you should do is begin by... MORE
Starting to work on a 1275 engine from an early 1969 MKIII that has been sitting for 23 years. In good shape when last ran. From the look of the plugs when I pulled them it was in good tune at the time it last ran. The air injector pump is frozen solid and had no belt to it. I have no desire to leave the emission controls in except for the crankcase breather as they are no longer required for that age car. Does anyone have any tips I should know about or can point me to a... MORE
The 'spider' in the centre of the joint can be assembled either way round, so it's likely it was put together the wrong way. There are right-angled fittings available for some grease-guns which may enable you to lubricate it, but failing that, wait till it gives up the ghost, then fit the new one the right way round. (later cars didn't have grease nipples at all, so think yourself lucky!) For the steering rack, you can either unscrew the oil nipple and use one of those pump type oil cans with a flexible pipe to squirt oil directly into... MORE
I was looking at my car real close and comparing it to the pictures in my book tonight, and noticed a few things I hadn't before. You can see where the catalytic converter has been cut off, and a short piece of pipe has been welded in place. Also the air pump is missing. The only traces are the original air pump mounting holes and the pulley that once attached to the belt driving it. If i'm drawing the right conclusions, the air pump doesnt help the performance of the car in any way, it's just another thing for... MORE
Great! Just what I need...another car! :) Guy wants way too much for it...were he selling it "built" and ready to go, it would be a different story. I used to own a '67 hardtop with a 1600cc GEX, "deep" sump, Weber DFEV, 009 Crane-equiipped dizzy with uprated coil, Glasspack sport exhaust, KYB tubes all around and 8 spoke 6" "White" wheels running 185/78 15's. All heat exited out from under the rear seat (excellent velocity & volumn). I think it could easily beat a Judson equipped 1200 with no problem. Car went like hell for a VW. Cruise... MORE
I saw a running V12 Jag that has a straight body, clean interior. It runs, but it has some exhaust leaks on it. The guy got it at an auction, bought it on the advice of a friend, but when he got ready to sell it, the prosective buyer pointed out that the car had been on fire under the bonnet. I couldn't tell, but I am not that familiar with Jag-Yew-R's. This is NOT an XJ series, this one has a 3 section removable top, T tops and the rear window assembly will remove as well. The battery... MORE
