MAIN
Fuel System
Next Page
Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load driving...like around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE
The IF of HIF stands for 'integral float'. It's not a seperate assembly but sits below the throttle assembly, around the jet. There is no way to adjust the float for angle so I guess it's designed to be fairly tolerant of mounting angle. Come to think of it (off the top of my head and it's a while since I've been inside mine) the end of the jet sits in the pool of fuel in the float chamber the top of which is nowehere near the top of the jet as it is in HS carbs. I wonder... MORE
I was wondering the correct engine starting procedure for a 1972 MGB 1800CC 4spd w/electric fuel pump and twin SU carbs. I can usually get it to start with manual choke on third try after pump stops clicking without touching the acceelerator pedal. I was wondering what the original owners manual said, if anything. The car was recently given to me and it has become my duty to bring it back to order. I have rebuilt and adjusted the carbs as well as performed normal tune-up procedures. Your help is appreciated! "nipper6579" 22575... MORE
Well, I think I win the "I knew I probably shouldn't have done that" prize for the day. Last week I power washed the engine on my '78 1500. I proceeded to drive it for about 20 minutes, after I cleaned the engine. Everything was fine. Today I go to start it up - turn the key - nothing. No clicking, nothing. I find that the lights work, and the brights, but I cannot flash the brights. I can also hear the whine of the fuel pump. I look under the hood and check every connection - everything looks... MORE
Actually pure water would in theory work in a hydraulic brake system, but has some practical disadvantages! It boils at too low a temperature. Boiling hydraulic fluid creates gas (steam) which is compressible so your brakes go spongy. It would also cause rusting of cylinder walls, pistons etc. It wouldn't lubricate the rubber parts as well. So although it would work, it wouldn't be much good. DOT 4 will actively attract and absorb moisture over time, but when under pressure the absorbed water will unabsorb back into water droplets, cause rusting, turn to steam and become compressible. Silicone won't... MORE
Yep, David... The new cars are definitely far better "runners" for sure. They run efficently on 87 unleaded PON and polute not and are much more safe than ever before BUT.....they are anything but user friendly when it comes to maintenance. They are expensive as hell to maintain when they have a problem. Simply opening up the taps at each wheel and the clutch slave with an empty beer can at each "tap" and waiting for the fluid (drip, drip, drip...slowly but surely as they drain simultaneously at the same time) in the MC to fall to almost the... MORE
Don I feel for you. It brings back memories of when I first started welding, it's such an unnatural process, it is difficult to get to grips with, but you can do it with patience and practice. Having just finished welding my 71 Midget, new floor pans, inner and outer sills, front and side footwell panels, lower rear wings all on both sides and outer boot floor area, I wil happily share some tips with you. I had never really welded before I started and it did take some practice to get used to it, even now I can... MORE
What's the normal / average octane rating in the states? Over here it's 95 (RON), but 98 is also still available. Br, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 22365... MORE
I am searching (as all the crap on his hard drive goes flying in every direction as he digs) fo a website. Maybe someone can help me out here. I can't remember the name of the company that makes the tank coating and rust converting stuff??????.....GOD I hate OLDTIMERS DISEASE......CRS David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 22379... MORE
The advanatge is in not lowering the octane of the input charge with oil vapour. Especially important these days because of all the octane numbers we've lost in the years since the cars were amde. I must admit I cannot see the point of this when the running engine provides a good source of vacuum at the intake manifold that needs nothing more than a pcv valve and a bit of pipework. I just do not see the advantage of introducing additional complications and more things to go wrong. Don't misunderstand me - I have no case to say... MORE
Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE
If memory serves (and I will defer to the more chemically qualified members of the list) it is a dilute form of hydrochloric acid (can't remember the exact concentration). My concern is this: I believe that if hydrochloric acid contacts any sort of ferrous metal the chemical reaction results in the formation of HYDROGEN GAS. REMEMBER THE HINDENBURGH.......KABLOOOEY!!!!!! it is pretty aggresive stuff and can be very dangerous to skin and respiratory systems if they are exposed. This stuff will take the hide off a water buffalo at 30 paces, so be careful. There are other rust and GUNK... MORE
Eeg... Gasoline over here is rated at the pump with a pump octane number (PON) instead of research octane number (RON). Basically, adding 3 numbers to PON will give you a "rough" RON #, according to my mechanic. If any one knows more about this or has other information which can shed further light upon the subject, please chime in! :) So, our "regular" over here is 87PON Our "mid" is 89PON Our "hi" is either 91,92, or 93PON depending on brand. Generally I guess it's 92. I use Cities Service - their "hi-test" is 93PON or approx. 96RON... MORE
G'day all The clutch line is the same as the brake line. And use plated steel fittings. Now fuel pressure - that's an interesting topic to raise. SU carbies were designed to run with 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure, delivered as it happens via an SU fuel pump. With any more than 3 psi, the fuel can force it's way past the needle and seat in the carbies, fill the float bowl and flood the engine. You might notice the carby flooding, and change the needle and seat to solve the problem, but it is likely that... MORE
Thanks Bob, The gained hp is will be most welcome, even if there were none those darn pipes get in the way of working on the distributor and the smog pump in the way of the thermostat housing. Living in California where the smog wisdom goes like this . . .to reduce smog put MTBE a carcinogen in the gas that cuts your gas mileage by 10 percent and contaminates all the ground water. Don "Don May" 22337... MORE
go to the hardware store buy muratic acid don rubber glove slosh tank with vigor rinse allow to air dry, then get tank sealer of choice "James O. Boyd Jr." 22315... MORE
Kits are available to etch then seal though you have to be careful about blocking the strainer in the tank. Not sure where you'd get one in the New World but I'm sure other listers can advise. jeremy.cogman@... 22302... MORE
Anyone have a home cure for a gas tank that has Rust/Gunk in it, short of sending it out to be proffessional cleaned and coated inside? Thank you, Bill French Hilton Head "73 RWA in Cincinnati PS. With the help of members I found that 1275 Starter at Advance Auto/Worldwide Auto parts. Who would have thourht they would still carry that item. DAH frenchww@... 22301... MORE
G'day Nigel Yes, use cupro nickel, unless you can get some of the original cadmium plated steel lines. Under no circumstances should you use copper. As you say, it "work hardens" and becomes brittle. We see this most often at the very edge of one of the fittings. There can often be a sharp bend or crease at the edge of the fitting, if unsufficient care has been taken when the pipes were bent. Of course, being softer, this is more likely in the copper pipe. The brake line is 3/16" thick wall tube (to take the brake line... MORE
Hi Colin Thank you very much for this post, very helpful indeed. I think I'm going to go with the cupro-nickel tubing as you suggest. I've not come across or seen the original cadmium plated steel tubing. Moss over here do, do the 1/4" tubing, although I'll probably have to buy 25 foot roll of the stuff as this seems the smallest quantity they sell it in. How much effect will using the 3/8" tubing have on the fuel line pressure? Also, what size is the clutch line piping, as I'll probably do that at the same time. What... MORE
on cars with electric pumps, the fuel line doesn't have any threaded fittings, just push fit/clamped flexible hoses at each end. David "David Jacobs" 22273... MORE
Hi guys I was originally intending to replace my brake and fuel lines with copper, but I've recently read that copper can become brittle through vibration. I'd like something more durable than the original steel pipes, and understand that Cupro-Nickel pipes are a good replacement over the original steel ones, albeit more expensive than copper or steel. Any thoughts on this? I noticed that the fuel pipe was a larger bore size than the brake pipe which I assume is 3/16", what size then is the fuel line - 1/4" ? And finally does anyone know what thread size... MORE
The oil fumes present in the vented gases will reduce your effective octane slightly making the engine slightly more inclined to pink. jeremy.cogman@... 22243... MORE
Hey.... If it's working for you, who am I to question? But it would run even better (most likely) with a little "through airflow". It's not that I think so....the factory thinks so 'cause that's the way THEY hooked up both the early and late "add on" crankcase evacuation (emissions) systems. The reason the original PCV valve "goes" and the engine begins to smoke is the wearing out of it's rubber diaphragm. It's much like the diaphragm used....well, never mind! :) When it becomes porus the effect is somewhat like your hooking up your PCV valve arrangement in reverse...the... MORE
Hi, Bill.... Ok....we don't know what sort of a rebuild job was done on the engine. Judging by the "tone" of the contents of your mail, probably not a very concientious one with respect to assembly anyway, it seems. That "scroll" rear engine area needs pretty close tolerancing as well as siliconing of the half moon gaskets back there or it will leak to one extent or another I am told, even on a new engine producing minimal blow-by. Speaking of which....what sort of shape is the engine in (mechanically speaking) in this respect? Compression, leakdown, etc.? "Blue" exhaust?... MORE
