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Jeremy, et al. Any good machine shop should be able to make you a set of bushings for your pedal pivot points. I have made numerous bushings for other applications out of a porduct called (in the business) Oil-lite (sp)......it is a medium hardness red brass alloy impregnated with oil. We have used it here at the plant for years for babbit type bearings on applications much more demanding than our brake pedals. Just my tuppence worth. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210... MORE


Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load driving...like around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE


Hi, Don.... Gerard once explained what was in the oil separator. Naturally, I forgot, of course. I think a steel mesh of some sort which in time falls apart but I never opened the ones on my PO'd Spridgets to find out for myself. I would ass-u-me, that any time you have the cover off is a good time to spray out the internals (whatever the hell they are!) with Gumout or whatever one cares to use. If you find out exactly what's in there, please let me know! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22655... MORE


Curious what is inside the crankcase oil separator. Does it ever need cleaning? Inquiring minds want to know. Don "Don May" 22653... MORE


The IF of HIF stands for 'integral float'. It's not a seperate assembly but sits below the throttle assembly, around the jet. There is no way to adjust the float for angle so I guess it's designed to be fairly tolerant of mounting angle. Come to think of it (off the top of my head and it's a while since I've been inside mine) the end of the jet sits in the pool of fuel in the float chamber the top of which is nowehere near the top of the jet as it is in HS carbs. I wonder... MORE


I was wondering the correct engine starting procedure for a 1972 MGB 1800CC 4spd w/electric fuel pump and twin SU carbs. I can usually get it to start with manual choke on third try after pump stops clicking without touching the acceelerator pedal. I was wondering what the original owners manual said, if anything. The car was recently given to me and it has become my duty to bring it back to order. I have rebuilt and adjusted the carbs as well as performed normal tune-up procedures. Your help is appreciated! "nipper6579" 22575... MORE


If we all just use the same last name, wear cowboy hats and somehow all fit into the Spridget, I'll bet somebody in Texas or San Francisco will let us stay for free, just to get us out of sight of their regular customers. The last time I was in San Francisco the desk clerks asked me to say Ya'll and Awl (oil) for them everytime I came into the lobby. I finally just went and set on pier 39 with the seals until the novelty wore off. Then they got me on "fixin' to". "I'm fixin to buy... MORE


Well, I think I win the "I knew I probably shouldn't have done that" prize for the day. Last week I power washed the engine on my '78 1500. I proceeded to drive it for about 20 minutes, after I cleaned the engine. Everything was fine. Today I go to start it up - turn the key - nothing. No clicking, nothing. I find that the lights work, and the brights, but I cannot flash the brights. I can also hear the whine of the fuel pump. I look under the hood and check every connection - everything looks... MORE


Actually pure water would in theory work in a hydraulic brake system, but has some practical disadvantages! It boils at too low a temperature. Boiling hydraulic fluid creates gas (steam) which is compressible so your brakes go spongy. It would also cause rusting of cylinder walls, pistons etc. It wouldn't lubricate the rubber parts as well. So although it would work, it wouldn't be much good. DOT 4 will actively attract and absorb moisture over time, but when under pressure the absorbed water will unabsorb back into water droplets, cause rusting, turn to steam and become compressible. Silicone won't... MORE


Yep, David... The new cars are definitely far better "runners" for sure. They run efficently on 87 unleaded PON and polute not and are much more safe than ever before BUT.....they are anything but user friendly when it comes to maintenance. They are expensive as hell to maintain when they have a problem. Simply opening up the taps at each wheel and the clutch slave with an empty beer can at each "tap" and waiting for the fluid (drip, drip, drip...slowly but surely as they drain simultaneously at the same time) in the MC to fall to almost the... MORE


Don, I expect you will get many replies on this one but here's my two cents' worth....... I experienced your frustration initially with being totally unable to see where the heck to start welding, but my solution was really simple: you must have really good strong light onto your target area. I whenever possible took my welding job outside into good daylight, preferably strong sunshine - this makes a world of difference. When I absolutely had to work in the garage, I always used a good 500W halogen portable lamp where access was limited, and 2 X 500W lamps... MORE


The advanatge is in not lowering the octane of the input charge with oil vapour. Especially important these days because of all the octane numbers we've lost in the years since the cars were amde. I must admit I cannot see the point of this when the running engine provides a good source of vacuum at the intake manifold that needs nothing more than a pcv valve and a bit of pipework. I just do not see the advantage of introducing additional complications and more things to go wrong. Don't misunderstand me - I have no case to say... MORE


Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE


Well, Chris... Intelligent routing of "ventilation hoses" (vertical travel) and/or a draught tube run off a "catch can" makes "liquid pollution" a thing of the past in any case. I don't know what everbody else looks for when they check their oil level at least once a week but, I know what I look for besides oil level. The reek of gasoline is all pervading, believe me! If you are not smelling this (it pervades the atmosphere around and within the car, especially on older vehicles which is our subject) or noticing a definite drop off in performance while... MORE


Bill B. writes.."Incredible". Way to go Bill. As long as the exhaust isn't blowing blue smoke, looks like you've got the problem licked...but keep an eye on the oil level over the next thousand miles or so just to be on the safe side....sounds like it's working fine though!! :) If you incorporate that exhaust fan idea, look for a "continuous duty" fan as I think Dave Stevens already mentioned. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22354... MORE


"Could you re-route.....to scavenge crankcase gases" Well, you'd be pressurizing the catch can prior to the draught tube or filter I guess. If the pressure was more than was present in the crankcase vent lines, it would pressurize these, as well as the draft tube unless you used one way valves in the lines from the crankcase to the catch can. If you could run the tube from the smog pump through the catch can and down vertically toward the road surface, you'd have a pressurized draught tube and by punching some small holes in the portion of the... MORE


G'day Robert A mate of mine did just as you suggest. He bought a 12 volt hair dryer, reversed the wiring to make it suck not blow, mounted it neatly in an aluminium can with lots of vents, and collected it to the engine breather outlets. Worked beautifully - no more leaks. And the fan didn't seem to mind ingesting all those oil fumes! avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22325... MORE


G'day all The clutch line is the same as the brake line. And use plated steel fittings. Now fuel pressure - that's an interesting topic to raise. SU carbies were designed to run with 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure, delivered as it happens via an SU fuel pump. With any more than 3 psi, the fuel can force it's way past the needle and seat in the carbies, fill the float bowl and flood the engine. You might notice the carby flooding, and change the needle and seat to solve the problem, but it is likely that... MORE


I've got one of those, I use it when driving my Land Rover off road. The smaller the sphincter diameter becomes the steeper the gradient is. It is callibrated differently for up hill, down hill and sideslopes. I understand that Mitsubishi Shoguns have a gauge on the Dashboard to do the same job. Land Rover, MG and Austin Healey have of course always prefered the simpler approach. "graham2306" 22320... MORE


Thanks, I think the Frost kit is the same as Eastwoods, and as you say, expensive! My idea was to use a cut down plastic tub, an anode made of some suitable scrap metal - zinc? copper - whatever. The appropriate strength of chemical solution bought from the local chemist. Battery charger or 12v battery as a power source. What more do I need? - except what I was asking for - which was the knowledge needed to: get the right solution at the right dilution at the right temperature and the right voltage at the right current with... MORE


G'day Nigel Yes, use cupro nickel, unless you can get some of the original cadmium plated steel lines. Under no circumstances should you use copper. As you say, it "work hardens" and becomes brittle. We see this most often at the very edge of one of the fittings. There can often be a sharp bend or crease at the edge of the fitting, if unsufficient care has been taken when the pipes were bent. Of course, being softer, this is more likely in the copper pipe. The brake line is 3/16" thick wall tube (to take the brake line... MORE


Bill B. writes, in part..."Situationally unaware? Age 15! Same thing...:)" Exactly....and should the normal housewife have to worry or concern herself with a crankcase explosion as she ferry's the kids around or goes about her daily chores in keeping a household going? I think not! Chris's point is a valid one and well taken regarding a PCV system, the latter part of his post notwithstanding with respect to a change in induction method replete with non-standard carb. It also keeps the oil more "clean" with respect to it's "useful life" as defined by "contamination". There is always contamination of... MORE


Hi Colin Thank you very much for this post, very helpful indeed. I think I'm going to go with the cupro-nickel tubing as you suggest. I've not come across or seen the original cadmium plated steel tubing. Moss over here do, do the 1/4" tubing, although I'll probably have to buy 25 foot roll of the stuff as this seems the smallest quantity they sell it in. How much effect will using the 3/8" tubing have on the fuel line pressure? Also, what size is the clutch line piping, as I'll probably do that at the same time. What... MORE


on cars with electric pumps, the fuel line doesn't have any threaded fittings, just push fit/clamped flexible hoses at each end. David "David Jacobs" 22273... MORE


Thanks for all the help. my only remaining question is how difficult is the replacement of the thrust washers? I assume I drop the oil pan, slide the crank back to where it belongs, remove the rear main bearing cap/holder, and replace the thrust washers. Is there anything else I should watch out for? Are the old washers a bear to remove? Conversely, are the new ones a bear to install, or do they just rotate around the crank? You guys are so much help... George "chuibuddy" 22274... MORE