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Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load driving...like around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE


Men!! Get a Titan manifold and be done with it. You get proper fit for the application AND excellent flow...all for US$150.00!! I mean...there's "we tight" and there's "we foolish"....the best carb. in the world is not much good without good intake manifold flow and if it won't fit properly, the whole shebang is no good at all, despite what appears on the surface to be "thrift". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22630... MORE


What about taking a wedge shaped slice out of the mainifold pipes near to the head and getting them rewelded at a slightly reduced angle? Guy "Guy Weller" 22608... MORE


it's not unknown for flexible hoses to collapse internally, and if yours have done so, I wouldn't recommend trying to clean them out, junk them and replace with new. If there is gunk in the solid pipes, I'd use methylated spirits (not sure of the US translation for this - ethanol? denatured alcohol?) to flush it through then blow dry with dry compressed air, as the brake parts cleaner might be a bit harsh if left in contact with the seals for any great length of time. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22579... MORE


Does anyone have any ideas for flushing clogged brake lines on a 1972 MGB? I have thought about brake parts cleaner or compressed air or maybe even a combination of both. At this point I am unable to get fluid from reservoir to wheels by applying pedal pressure with known good master cylinder. Setup is dual tandem, non servo type. Thanks, Warren "nipper6579" 22577... MORE


Hi guys is this the same group i left, some 2 yrs ago. well im back at my sprite now. anyway just started stripping it to replaace the 2nd cill, and also fitting a 5 speed gear box while at it. So while the engine is out im looking to boost power. ie free flow exhaiust , hi lift cam. & poss hi lift rockers . i intend reusing the twin HS4 carbs but fit k & n Filters. Can anyone tell me of a proven choice of parts. ie f0r fast rd use. If I fit cam is... MORE


Very reasonable...Jim Lodder. Alternatively, I can check out in, then rent an airplane that could do this. Let's see, we'd need something that could carry a Spridget, yet had good forward speed? I'll work on this but, rough calculations suggest this roll bar installation "by air" would amount to a little more than 10,000US. Not unreasonable for a once in a life time installation!! He's got Mastercard? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22548... MORE


Dave.... The only time air enters the lines is if you let the master cyl. get too low or allow it to go empty. It's all done by gravity and while gravity is doing the work, your's truly is enjoying the sunshine and applying himself to "other activites", while keeping his eye on the ball, in the aforementioned respect! Do not allow yourself to become distracted or diverted with "Oh, honey...." stuff!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22504... MORE


Hey all, I just want to tell a story about an averted disaster at my home yesterday. I have an older home (built in 67-68) that had used the Zinsco brand breaker box. The design of this older box is VERY dangerous. If you live in an older home, please see if you have this in your house!! What happened at my house was, I had lights go out, but the breaker was not always tripped. I rewired the ceiling fan I had installed a month ago, I had found a loose neutral wire. When I went to turn... MORE


The advanatge is in not lowering the octane of the input charge with oil vapour. Especially important these days because of all the octane numbers we've lost in the years since the cars were amde. I must admit I cannot see the point of this when the running engine provides a good source of vacuum at the intake manifold that needs nothing more than a pcv valve and a bit of pipework. I just do not see the advantage of introducing additional complications and more things to go wrong. Don't misunderstand me - I have no case to say... MORE


Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE


"Could you re-route.....to scavenge crankcase gases" Well, you'd be pressurizing the catch can prior to the draught tube or filter I guess. If the pressure was more than was present in the crankcase vent lines, it would pressurize these, as well as the draft tube unless you used one way valves in the lines from the crankcase to the catch can. If you could run the tube from the smog pump through the catch can and down vertically toward the road surface, you'd have a pressurized draught tube and by punching some small holes in the portion of the... MORE


Bill, The only reservation I would have about any of these small 12V DC motors is the service duty they are capable of. Don't think they were built with "CONTINUOUS USE" in mind...after all HOW BIG IS YOUR AIR MATTRESS....or HOW LONG IS YOUR HAIR?....LOL Good luck Dave in NY David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 22350... MORE


Morning all, I need a refresher course in the advantages of removing smog from a Spridget. I have left it on my 74 until now but I find it a nuisance to get to things with all that stuff cluttering the engine compartment. I like it clean and simple. My two big Questions that the old mind can't remember. 1. What is gained in performance by removing the air injection pump system? 2. After removal of smog pump and sealing injection ports what adjustments to engine timing / tuning needs to be made? Of course I will save everything... MORE


Don... The smog pump injects air into the exhaust after the combustion process so no re-tuning needed. Whatever horsepower is lost from the engine (5?) driving the pump is returned to the driveline (yhaay!). Doesn't sound like much but as a percentage of what the engine normally produces it ain't bad, is it? :) We cut the manifold off at the fittings to the cylinder head and retained these, closing them shut with a drop of lead or solder...I forget what we used it was so long ago. Alternatively, you can find Allen screw/ plugs of the proper size... MORE


G'day all The clutch line is the same as the brake line. And use plated steel fittings. Now fuel pressure - that's an interesting topic to raise. SU carbies were designed to run with 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure, delivered as it happens via an SU fuel pump. With any more than 3 psi, the fuel can force it's way past the needle and seat in the carbies, fill the float bowl and flood the engine. You might notice the carby flooding, and change the needle and seat to solve the problem, but it is likely that... MORE


Thanks Bob, The gained hp is will be most welcome, even if there were none those darn pipes get in the way of working on the distributor and the smog pump in the way of the thermostat housing. Living in California where the smog wisdom goes like this . . .to reduce smog put MTBE a carcinogen in the gas that cuts your gas mileage by 10 percent and contaminates all the ground water. Don "Don May" 22337... MORE


go to the hardware store buy muratic acid don rubber glove slosh tank with vigor rinse allow to air dry, then get tank sealer of choice "James O. Boyd Jr." 22315... MORE


"What about you, Cap'n Bob...." Right!! "What about Bob?"....Bob? I know just enough about everything to be dangerously ignornant of the severe mal-consequences of being in such a state!! Thus far, anyway! :) Talk about Peter Pan and "Never, never land"!! :):):) Fans for pulling heated air and vapors out of anything (including the engine compartment and crankcase) are just too intelligent to imagine!! In every respect, this is seems a great idea but, you better have a high capacity battery and/or alternator! Just kidding, Bob. Exhaust fans make perfect sense in all respects though with crankcase fumes, the... MORE


G'day Nigel Yes, use cupro nickel, unless you can get some of the original cadmium plated steel lines. Under no circumstances should you use copper. As you say, it "work hardens" and becomes brittle. We see this most often at the very edge of one of the fittings. There can often be a sharp bend or crease at the edge of the fitting, if unsufficient care has been taken when the pipes were bent. Of course, being softer, this is more likely in the copper pipe. The brake line is 3/16" thick wall tube (to take the brake line... MORE


Bill B. writes, in part..."Situationally unaware? Age 15! Same thing...:)" Exactly....and should the normal housewife have to worry or concern herself with a crankcase explosion as she ferry's the kids around or goes about her daily chores in keeping a household going? I think not! Chris's point is a valid one and well taken regarding a PCV system, the latter part of his post notwithstanding with respect to a change in induction method replete with non-standard carb. It also keeps the oil more "clean" with respect to it's "useful life" as defined by "contamination". There is always contamination of... MORE


Guy... Those tubes on the carb. which allow crankcase gases into the intake system from the cannister on the timing cover are in and of themselves, "graduated orifices" for a crankcase evacuation. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22298... MORE


Hi guys I was originally intending to replace my brake and fuel lines with copper, but I've recently read that copper can become brittle through vibration. I'd like something more durable than the original steel pipes, and understand that Cupro-Nickel pipes are a good replacement over the original steel ones, albeit more expensive than copper or steel. Any thoughts on this? I noticed that the fuel pipe was a larger bore size than the brake pipe which I assume is 3/16", what size then is the fuel line - 1/4" ? And finally does anyone know what thread size... MORE


Hello all: I have removed the engine from my midget and re-sealed/gasketed it. I took photos of the timing cover bolts and the particular arrangement of the stud s and standoffs for the air pump/alternator mounts=85and somehow lost them. So now I am trying to put this part back together and want ot get it done right. Would one of you be so kind as to snap a few digital photos of the front left hand (alternator side) of the engine, down where the brackets and stud s attach=E9 to the block and the timing cover? Please send =91em... MORE


"The oil fumes present in the vented (crankcase) gases...." Yes, this can be a "damned it you do, damed if you don't" sorta thing. That rear engine oil leak can become a real PITA though, and I can understand owners who's engines incorporate the stock "scroll" seal wanting to rid themselves of the problem and general mess. Back when I ran the normal intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed off the oil separator on my '67 "B", we had readily available at the corner pump decent leaded octanes and I never would have given this a thought. Matter of... MORE