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www.ahspares.co.uk Really good service, excellent for early sprite bits. Set of four brackets about 12 quid, bargain! J. "Jeremy Cogman" 5224... MORE
Jeff (and anybody else still following this thread) That'll be Toby (on Midgeteurope list) with the Talbot Sunbeam engine and semi spaceframe chassis - I think he a bit mad personally :-) Engine and 'box very light, but it's only 930-odd cc, so its gonna be a screamer to get 90bhp out possibly? Plus they are notorious for eating head gaskets - Wills rings required I think. At least he won't have too many problems with the axle. He has a web site with a few piccies on somewhere - ah... found it... http://www.kmvs.freeserve.co.uk/index.html Wonder if he decided to... MORE
Jeremy and all, I have considered the Jag lump in the Midget... wasn't there a Jag engined Frogeye way back? ended up in Oz? Must do a web search... K-series looks a good idea - I know a chap that has built a number of very high output K-series (up to 250 bhp from the 1.8 litre!). Trouble is they aint cheap, especially the RWD conversion parts (though at least available off the shelf). The Mazda I would like, and its been done before as well, but bit rare in UK. Although come in RWD format. For some (irrational?)... MORE
Hi there, I just caught your comment Here in the uk, cars have to line up to within 10mm of the hillclimb start line,and the timing won't start until they do this. I know - we are the UK's biggest timing company! We're just developing a new start beam - or curtain - to do away with those digusting black timing vanes the regs currently require. Martin Peake martin@... 5212... MORE
Can't seem to get the pics to send, I'll try linking them from my website. Mk1 Austin Healey Sprite, Californian Imported car, was used for racing (see pics), still has wide wheels attached. Looks a bit of a shed but is actually a very square car. Floor needs replacing (cheap from heritage at around =A360 per side) but surrounding metal is pretty solid. Comes with a box of bits including dash, instruments, grille, master cylinder, hood frame and loads of other odds and sods. It's all steel but has a fibreglass coating on some of the back (probably saved... MORE
Mk1 Austin Healey Sprite, Californian Imported car, was used for racing (see pics), still has wide wheels attached. Looks a bit of a shed but is actually a very square car. Floor needs replacing (cheap from heritage at around =A360 per side) but surrounding metal is pretty solid. Comes with a box of bits including dash, instruments, grille, master cylinder, hood frame and loads of other odds and sods. It's all steel but has a fibreglass coating on some of the back (probably saved it from completely rusting away), is missing the carbs, cylinder head and seats. The car... MORE
Taken the midget out for the first time (I know, should have driven it before I bought, but was very cheap) and the temp guage doesn't work although the oil part is O.K. Any thoughts on what is wrong or do I need a new guage? Many thanks for any help. John Plymouth, UK 1973 Midget (will be fantastic when finished) Audi TT (fantastic) Citroen Picasso (complete rubbish) jc691907@... 5210... MORE
The correct order is: Prime, Undercoat, Base Coat, Top Coats, then Varnish or Protector if required. Just the same as in DIY. Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) Yesterday is history, tomorrow is mystery, but today is a gift! mmbrock88@... 5199... MORE
Rob and all. I found the answer to my question. Amber Ott, the Queen of the British juk yard in Columbia, SC. is " aott@... " They really have " A lott " of stuff. Thanks to all. Bill French HIlton Head frenchww@... 5198... MORE
Pleased to report that I managed to put my front crossmember straight with the help of a borrowed porta-power. I first weakened the structure by hacksawing part way through the weld between the crossmember and the inner wing assembly. By wedging the base of my engine crane under the rear and right front part of the front chassis, I could then use it with the porta-power to get a vertical push down on the left shock absorber mounting point. I've measured and spirit-leveled everything I can, to be sure that I'll have equal spring compression and camber angle left... MORE
James, Perhaps running in the class A would be a better bet than the odd weekend hillclimb (could use the TT for that as long as the contract hire company don't find out) I assume class C would be relatively low cost, as long as there are not too many spills. As you rightly point out though, Plymouth is miles from any track and a whole season would not be feasible. I do, however, travel to Brighton and the South East once a week (I am a Chartered Surveyor) so the mileage doesn't frighten me too much. May well... MORE
No Tim, you were right the first time, self etch first then the high build primer. Next make sure you primer has plenty of time to cure. Spray all the primed areas with a light coat of matt black, a small spray can from your local DIY shop will do. This acts as a guide coat. Next you need to sand the body with a rubber block, using a wet and dry sand paper with water. (Your sand paper that you use to sand the body must not be to coarse, I would use a grade between 600 &... MORE
Peter Try either: - Mini Spares http://www.minispares.com/home.cfm or Swiftune http://www.swiftune.co.uk/ Regards James "James Bilsland" 5174... MORE
Hi Rick I have the same problem with a professionally re-built 1098 engine here in the UK. I have done about 2500 miles on this engine and noticed a steadily falling oil pressure. The engine runs perfectly with no unwelcome noises and has good oil pressure until it gets fully hot then it falls away and is down to about 5psi at idle. I have talked to the engine builders and they think it is a faulty oil pump, even though a new one was fitted when the engine was re-built. The engine will be removed from the Sprite... MORE
Tim, did you use the self etching primer first? If you didn't, you should have. Then use your primer (I asume it's a high build primer) Your base coat should then be applied after the high build primer. If you need any other help, please e-mail me. Gary King (Newcastle UK) 69 MKIV Sprite http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/6286 "Gary King" 5159... MORE
Thanks Tim, Rob are you out there ?? What is Ambers e-mail?? Bill French HIlton Head frenchww@... 5175... MORE
Thanks for all the info guys. Oselli were a company I read about in my well read Vizard and assumed they were pretty good. I assume that DV has shares in the company, given his comments. I used to have one of their manifolds but as i never had the car tested couldn't tell if it produced a worthwhile increase. BTW, I used to have a 12G206 head and sold it for =A310 before I bought the DV book and read about its rarity. Are these really as rare as he says and if so, was I that stupid??... MORE
I have a '59 bugeye and need help. As I suspected the trim shop that was installing my new dash broke off the temp. gauge tube at the radiator fitting. This the combination gauge that also gives oil pressure. It use to work ! Can the a break in the tube be repaired ?? Is there an outlet for a new old stock combination oil/temp gauge ?? Moss says no. do not see it in Victoria British LTD. Anyone recall Amber Ott's e-mail, the British junk yard in Columbia, SC. ? Thanks Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 5160... MORE
Willy- "Longflow" sounds like the Victoria British takeoff on Longman? (Other listers?) I think you've got a DVG there, Willy. "Throats" upright or sideways, Willy? Give us some accurate info so we can help you identify. No one says you have to win event. You are there to participate. Prime motive is sharing quality time with son, right? "Pump up" tires, fill 'er up with hi-test and drive, but not abusively; no "banging" shifts, etc. Have fun!! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 5158... MORE
Here comes Tom again, with his "private" messages, again! I think I talked about French Toast like about a month ago?! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 5145... MORE
James, Many thanks for the info - glad I asked the questions. Have already got the Frontline brochure and will definately look at their half shafts. Will have to start saving for the K series conversion though......... Will look at the links when i find a few spare minutes. What sort of power are you racing boys seeing? John Plymouth, UK 1973 Midget (will be fantastic when finished) Audi TT (fantastic) Citroen Picasso (complete rubbish) jc691907@... 5142... MORE
Try a craft or restoration specialist shop, the sort that sells picture framing materials etc. I got some there years ago for another purpose, it was a flimsy gauge, but they had all thicknesses. Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) mmbrock88@... 5140... MORE
Hi John I race a Midget in the FADS Midget Challenge and build my own engines so I know a small amount about these matters. I have yet to hear anyone say anything good about Oselli engines I'm afraid. Certainly none of the racers I know will use them... There are a number of 'good guys' in the race engine business. I hear good things about Peter Burgess and I know that Peter May engines are good (having raced against them!). Towards the more expensive end of the scale you have people like Bryan Slark, Richard Longman and MED... MORE
Hi John, welcome. We do get plenty technical info, humor & rubbish on here, but that's why most of us are still here. Nice to see you have signed your name correctly. Gary King (Newcastle UK) 69 MKIV Sprite http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/6286 "Gary King" 5124... MORE
Hi all (not sure if I've posted this twice) I've built a small website for my Frogeye. Can anyone tel me if this link works http:www.homestead.com/Frogeye/files/garysfro.html Thanks Gary L Camden, London "Gary Lazarus" 5116... MORE
