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Jeremy, et al. Any good machine shop should be able to make you a set of bushings for your pedal pivot points. I have made numerous bushings for other applications out of a porduct called (in the business) Oil-lite (sp)......it is a medium hardness red brass alloy impregnated with oil. We have used it here at the plant for years for babbit type bearings on applications much more demanding than our brake pedals. Just my tuppence worth. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210... MORE
Hi, Don.... Gerard once explained what was in the oil separator. Naturally, I forgot, of course. I think a steel mesh of some sort which in time falls apart but I never opened the ones on my PO'd Spridgets to find out for myself. I would ass-u-me, that any time you have the cover off is a good time to spray out the internals (whatever the hell they are!) with Gumout or whatever one cares to use. If you find out exactly what's in there, please let me know! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22655... MORE
Curious what is inside the crankcase oil separator. Does it ever need cleaning? Inquiring minds want to know. Don "Don May" 22653... MORE
it's not unknown for flexible hoses to collapse internally, and if yours have done so, I wouldn't recommend trying to clean them out, junk them and replace with new. If there is gunk in the solid pipes, I'd use methylated spirits (not sure of the US translation for this - ethanol? denatured alcohol?) to flush it through then blow dry with dry compressed air, as the brake parts cleaner might be a bit harsh if left in contact with the seals for any great length of time. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22579... MORE
Does anyone have any ideas for flushing clogged brake lines on a 1972 MGB? I have thought about brake parts cleaner or compressed air or maybe even a combination of both. At this point I am unable to get fluid from reservoir to wheels by applying pedal pressure with known good master cylinder. Setup is dual tandem, non servo type. Thanks, Warren "nipper6579" 22577... MORE
I was wondering the correct engine starting procedure for a 1972 MGB 1800CC 4spd w/electric fuel pump and twin SU carbs. I can usually get it to start with manual choke on third try after pump stops clicking without touching the acceelerator pedal. I was wondering what the original owners manual said, if anything. The car was recently given to me and it has become my duty to bring it back to order. I have rebuilt and adjusted the carbs as well as performed normal tune-up procedures. Your help is appreciated! "nipper6579" 22575... MORE
If we all just use the same last name, wear cowboy hats and somehow all fit into the Spridget, I'll bet somebody in Texas or San Francisco will let us stay for free, just to get us out of sight of their regular customers. The last time I was in San Francisco the desk clerks asked me to say Ya'll and Awl (oil) for them everytime I came into the lobby. I finally just went and set on pier 39 with the seals until the novelty wore off. Then they got me on "fixin' to". "I'm fixin to buy... MORE
Well, I think I win the "I knew I probably shouldn't have done that" prize for the day. Last week I power washed the engine on my '78 1500. I proceeded to drive it for about 20 minutes, after I cleaned the engine. Everything was fine. Today I go to start it up - turn the key - nothing. No clicking, nothing. I find that the lights work, and the brights, but I cannot flash the brights. I can also hear the whine of the fuel pump. I look under the hood and check every connection - everything looks... MORE
Actually pure water would in theory work in a hydraulic brake system, but has some practical disadvantages! It boils at too low a temperature. Boiling hydraulic fluid creates gas (steam) which is compressible so your brakes go spongy. It would also cause rusting of cylinder walls, pistons etc. It wouldn't lubricate the rubber parts as well. So although it would work, it wouldn't be much good. DOT 4 will actively attract and absorb moisture over time, but when under pressure the absorbed water will unabsorb back into water droplets, cause rusting, turn to steam and become compressible. Silicone won't... MORE
"There is a whole lot in between" Exactly...which is why it is difficult to comment on this. Why did the PO simply leave the car there? Did it run at all? You know how ozone affects rubber.... especially rubber as in "seals" in terms of hydraulics which need to be kept "wet" to "live". In this respect, I would expect to renew a lot of stuff right off the bat just to "be sure", most especially when it came to brakes. A better question might be what would be a fair price for a painted tub with a new... MORE
Yep, David... The new cars are definitely far better "runners" for sure. They run efficently on 87 unleaded PON and polute not and are much more safe than ever before BUT.....they are anything but user friendly when it comes to maintenance. They are expensive as hell to maintain when they have a problem. Simply opening up the taps at each wheel and the clutch slave with an empty beer can at each "tap" and waiting for the fluid (drip, drip, drip...slowly but surely as they drain simultaneously at the same time) in the MC to fall to almost the... MORE
Well... I don't think he is pulling your leg, David... rather, I think there is a misunderstanding. Moisture in brake fluid is, as far as I know, a bad thing in any event. Non-silicone fluids hold moisture in suspension whereas the silicone stuff does not. So, you could say silicone, by allowing the moisture to puddle at system low points (like the calipers wherein the moisture can cause corrosion!) keeps the moisture "away" from the rubber seals? Which one is worse when it comes to corrosion, is anyone's guess insofar as your's truly has no idea!! Loods like your... MORE
There was a thred a little while ago where the subject of DOT 4 brake fluid was discussed, especially brands other than Castrol GTLMA. Here is a short list of the other brands of DOT 4 that are available: 1)Radiator Specialty (also known as Gunk / Solder Seal) M45-12 or M45-12/6 (12 oz.) M45-35 (32 oz.) 2)Wagner FC120838 (12 oz) FC120839 (32 oz) 3)Raybestos APF-124 (12 oz) APF-14 (32 oz) I hope this helps those of you unable to source the Castrol Chris 60 Sprite et al "miguy1950" 22476... MORE
Unexpected effect when I took the smog pump off the 74 . . . all the popping when decelerating has disappeared. Runs smoother, sounds better. Always found the sound of the smog pump annoying. Don "Don May" 22396... MORE
The advanatge is in not lowering the octane of the input charge with oil vapour. Especially important these days because of all the octane numbers we've lost in the years since the cars were amde. I must admit I cannot see the point of this when the running engine provides a good source of vacuum at the intake manifold that needs nothing more than a pcv valve and a bit of pipework. I just do not see the advantage of introducing additional complications and more things to go wrong. Don't misunderstand me - I have no case to say... MORE
Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE
Eeg... Gasoline over here is rated at the pump with a pump octane number (PON) instead of research octane number (RON). Basically, adding 3 numbers to PON will give you a "rough" RON #, according to my mechanic. If any one knows more about this or has other information which can shed further light upon the subject, please chime in! :) So, our "regular" over here is 87PON Our "mid" is 89PON Our "hi" is either 91,92, or 93PON depending on brand. Generally I guess it's 92. I use Cities Service - their "hi-test" is 93PON or approx. 96RON... MORE
Well, Chris... Intelligent routing of "ventilation hoses" (vertical travel) and/or a draught tube run off a "catch can" makes "liquid pollution" a thing of the past in any case. I don't know what everbody else looks for when they check their oil level at least once a week but, I know what I look for besides oil level. The reek of gasoline is all pervading, believe me! If you are not smelling this (it pervades the atmosphere around and within the car, especially on older vehicles which is our subject) or noticing a definite drop off in performance while... MORE
Specifcally like a bilge fan from someplace like West Marine would be continuous duty although it will not be as cheap as the mattress pumps. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 22355... MORE
Bill B. writes.."Incredible". Way to go Bill. As long as the exhaust isn't blowing blue smoke, looks like you've got the problem licked...but keep an eye on the oil level over the next thousand miles or so just to be on the safe side....sounds like it's working fine though!! :) If you incorporate that exhaust fan idea, look for a "continuous duty" fan as I think Dave Stevens already mentioned. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22354... MORE
"Could you re-route.....to scavenge crankcase gases" Well, you'd be pressurizing the catch can prior to the draught tube or filter I guess. If the pressure was more than was present in the crankcase vent lines, it would pressurize these, as well as the draft tube unless you used one way valves in the lines from the crankcase to the catch can. If you could run the tube from the smog pump through the catch can and down vertically toward the road surface, you'd have a pressurized draught tube and by punching some small holes in the portion of the... MORE
Morning all, I need a refresher course in the advantages of removing smog from a Spridget. I have left it on my 74 until now but I find it a nuisance to get to things with all that stuff cluttering the engine compartment. I like it clean and simple. My two big Questions that the old mind can't remember. 1. What is gained in performance by removing the air injection pump system? 2. After removal of smog pump and sealing injection ports what adjustments to engine timing / tuning needs to be made? Of course I will save everything... MORE
Don... The smog pump injects air into the exhaust after the combustion process so no re-tuning needed. Whatever horsepower is lost from the engine (5?) driving the pump is returned to the driveline (yhaay!). Doesn't sound like much but as a percentage of what the engine normally produces it ain't bad, is it? :) We cut the manifold off at the fittings to the cylinder head and retained these, closing them shut with a drop of lead or solder...I forget what we used it was so long ago. Alternatively, you can find Allen screw/ plugs of the proper size... MORE
G'day Robert A mate of mine did just as you suggest. He bought a 12 volt hair dryer, reversed the wiring to make it suck not blow, mounted it neatly in an aluminium can with lots of vents, and collected it to the engine breather outlets. Worked beautifully - no more leaks. And the fan didn't seem to mind ingesting all those oil fumes! avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22325... MORE
G'day all The clutch line is the same as the brake line. And use plated steel fittings. Now fuel pressure - that's an interesting topic to raise. SU carbies were designed to run with 2.5 to 3 psi of fuel pressure, delivered as it happens via an SU fuel pump. With any more than 3 psi, the fuel can force it's way past the needle and seat in the carbies, fill the float bowl and flood the engine. You might notice the carby flooding, and change the needle and seat to solve the problem, but it is likely that... MORE
