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Hi It's standard practice to fit helicoil inserts into aluminium castings for added strength. The inserts are stainless steel, cadmium plated and passivated to prevent electrolytic corrosion between stainless steel and aluminium. However you do have to drill and tap the hole to receive the insert using a special size tap. Terry "Terry Isherwood" 7912... MORE
I have a MkII sprite which I use for Rally work, Following a minor brush with a bridge parapet in the Alps I have the opportunity to rebuild the suspension. I was thinking of using the Frontline rear telescopic kit, anyone have any experiance with this? On the front I was going to use the 340LB lowered springs from Moss with a full race ARB. Otherwise standard wishbones & lever shocks. The car has drums all round and only 948 cc of raw power so I'm more concerned with maintaing good cornering and turn-in than anything else. I would... MORE
It was only a matter of time, Speedy (until it breaks) Stuart... Halfshafts typically break in one of two places, the flange or the splines. As Mike has mentioned, a double-bearing hub will prevent the flange breaking. For a modification which will prevent the splined end breaking off, see my pictures at http://www.community.webshots.com/album/15283945PMbEoDsIKU Its a little bit of Vosprung durch technik. (success through engineering [rather than brute force]) its a good idea to have the halfshaft shot-peened as well. The halfshaft pictured was originally from an A30- and is, in original form, even weaker than the standard shaft fitted... MORE
I have used Recoil stainless steel insertable threads a few times and found them to be excellent. We had a sales rep come out to my work and give us a demo and he told us that Rolls Royce and Jaguar use them from the factory in there aluminium engine components because they are so much stronger than just tapping the aluminium. I recently used them to repair damaged spark plug threads in the alloy head on my Nissan Patrol and they worked great. Tim Trenwith Melbourne Australia "Trenwith, Tim TJ" 7895... MORE
I JUST RECEIVED A 1975 MG MIDGET, IN GOOD SHAPE, BUT NEED TO KNOW THE VALUE OF IT. THERE ARE NO DINGS OR RUST ON BODY AND IS IN FAIR SHAPE ON THE INSIDE AND HAS A NEW TOP.(THE OLD ONE WASN`T ANY GOOD) MOTOR RUNS GREAT.(BUT NEED TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH) AFTER THAT IS FIXED IT WILL BE READY FOR THE ROAD. DO YOU HAVE ANY INFO ON THE PRICE RAGE OF THESE CARS? ANY INFO WILL BE APPRECIATED..THANK YOU, NAN "arkangelntx" 7897... MORE
Stuart Bad luck mate! The standard ones are too weak for the job in a standard car. So with a fresh engine (more power?) etc you will have problems. If you are going to replace it makes sense to upgrade (in pairs!!) and both Peter May and Frontline offer good uprated items which the race boys fail to break and can handle up to 140bhp in the K series cars!! http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/rearsus.htm http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/ While your at it, check the wheel bearings and consider a twin bearing conversion as it stops the flex in the shaft which contributes to the failure.... MORE
It can be done, but not as easily as the other way around. I believe it will require several chassis modifications to fit though. I don't know anyone in their right mind who would do that though. The 1275 is a better engine and a 5 speed kit for it is much cheaper that the one available for a 1500. Gerard "gerardchateau" 7883... MORE
Joel, This is a topic that comes up often, The consensus from most experienced Spridget owners is that the coversions don't perform as well or significantly better than properly rebuilt levers. Consensus ALSO is that the ONLY good rebuilt levers come from Peter C. at Worldwide Imports. There are modifications he makes to them that make them better than new. There is an inherant problem with levers in that the standard design allows dirt to enter the pivot point and deteriorates the seal. This is baasically what cuases them to fail. Peter addresses that problem with an improved design.... MORE
Perhaps a dumb question, but it's never stopped me before ;D I want to go with 155x13 (at minimum) on stock wire wheels, or as wide as feasibly can - 165/70 or 175/70?. The only size inner tube I've in M*$$ or VB is 145x13. Does the tire size and the inner tube size need to match exactly, or is "close" good enough? Any other good sources for tubes on West Coast? TIA Jim Rogers San Juan Capistrano CA jarplanner@... 7881... MORE
Why would you want to put a 1500 into a "1275" when the 1275 is more easily and inexpensively "tuneable" and more robust ("later" thick flange blocks), as well as being a "sweet" runner? The rear axle ratio of most 1500's (later cars?) were 3.7 instead of 3.9, stock. Don't know about the gearboxi! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 7880... MORE
Anyone interested in a steel bug-eye bonnet that needs a little TLC? I got this bonnet to convert my 62 into a bug-eye but it won't fit over my engine (long story) and I'm not about to cut holes in the top of an original steel bonnet, but I have no qualms with cutting up a square nose bonnet. At any rate... this bonnet had been hit on the front passenger corner, so there was a football size dent, right on the fender beading.The dent has been roughly pushed out and needs to go to a body person who... MORE
When I installed mine last year, I didn't use any glue. Thought about it, but had such a difficult time getting the old glue off in order to repaint the interior, that I decided against it. I had used snaps everywhere. The only hard part was the transmission tunnel. I used 3 snaps on each side. It fits very well. I also installed a layer of insulation/soundproofing under everything. Now I can check easily for any signs of rust, etc. Good luck Bob Irwin rlirwin@... 7836... MORE
I have used all 3methods on various cars. Method 1- dont bother unless there's extensive rust. It's just too hard to weld it back together tidily. Method 2- Epoxy glue works well, and lasts fairly well, but you have to be sure the underlying seam is free of rust. I guess Epoxy is best of your paintwork is good and you're after a quick fix. Method 3- IMO is longest lasting. Lindsay Porters restoration book has a good tip- fill the seam with Braze before soldering the bead on top. The braze reacts with any rust present, sealing it... MORE
Bill Terry Horler is our club Gen Sec (Midget & Sprite Club UK) and confirms it is out of print and not likely to be re-run for some time. However if enough people contact the publishers it might !!! My copy, lent out, never come back! The club stock is now sold out and we know of no new sources. Sorry Mike M North London mike643mnp@... 7811... MORE
Mikkel, I would evaluate the situation with the current engine depending on if you want to keep the car, reliability factor, and if you are a purist. Firsthand, if the prefix if the engine number starts with 10CG, get rid of it, because it has smaller crank bearing diameters and they tend to throw rods, not as bad as Triumph's awful 1500 Spitfire engine. If the prefix is 10CC, It has larger bearing diameters, I would keep and rebuild it. If the rings are shot, which they probably are, consider a rebore. If you dont care about originality, a... MORE
Bill, As I don't have a steam cleaner and I didn't have a power washer at the time, When I did mine, I pulled the engine, etc. etc. then soaked everything with Simple Green. Waited about 30 minutes, hosed it off. Had to hit the trouble spots a second time. Let is soak in for about an hour. Then just hosed it off. What was left was the rust and paint chips. I have been really impressed with the grease and gunk removal of Simple Green. A little sanding and wire brushing was all there was to it. Sounds... MORE
Bill, There are varying levels of deatail in doing this and it is partially conditional on what you're after and the starting condition. If your car has the ususal rust protection, i.e. OIL, you may find that the condition of the paint underneath is in still good. The problem areas are always around the battery box and master cylnders. Since these areas have typically been paint stripped by loss of respective contents, I suggest you start there after powerwashing the engine bay. You will need to sand, wirebrush and use phosphoric acid to get to bare clean metal. I... MORE
Mikkel, Less than 10lbs oil pressure in an A-series engine is a serious condition and particularly in a 1098 will lead to catastrophic bearing and consequently rod failure. Rebuild or replace it befroe you put a rod though the block. General rule of thimb is you should have 10lbs oil pressure for every 1000 RPM of the engine. The amount your using up is not a good sign either. I don't know your mechanical skill level, but rebuilding these engines isn't terribly difficult or expensive if you can do some of the work yourself. If you don't feel your... MORE
Had something similar several years ago, though only 40 miles/pint. Left lovely louds of blue smoke everywhere, esapecially after a high- speed run (or as high as you can stand in a Midget. Needs thorough rebuild or replacement My actual answer depends on how original you want it to be. Purists would ask you to rebuild it as new, but the other option is to go for something more interesting in the way of Stage 2 1275 or something even more radical from engine suppliers like Oselli. It all depends on your approach, desire for DIY, how you use... MORE
Sorry your question was also 'is there anything I can do...' It sounds to me like your engine is worn out. That type of oil use indicates that the piston rings are knackered and the valve guides are shot. rebuild time I'm afraid... The reasonable oil pressure suggests that the crank is still good although running it short of oil constantly won't be doing it any favours. J "jamesbilsland" 7764... MORE
Mikkel You could swap your engine - although unless you know the car that an engine has come out of, or go to a reputable source, 'exchange' engines can be rather an unknown quantity. Don't go for the cheapest - it usually means that all the engine has received by way of a rebuild is a good steam clean, an oil change and a coat of paint... Check out the MG parts suppliers (M*ss etc.) for an idea on sensible exchange prices. The other option is to rebuild - unless absolutely everything is worn out this can prove cheaper... MORE
Bill, I am in the process of cleaning up the engine compartment on my '75 Midget. I have to pull the engine and trans to replace the trans with a better unit so I decided to tackle the job. I am using two methods: Wire brush on a drill and engine degreaser. I've got the upper half about done with the wire brush and it looks fine. The heavier gunk is below which I won't tackle until I pull the engine in a few weeks. I am freaking out about putting everything back together at this point. FYI-As an... MORE
You should also consider: nosimport@... 800 362-1025 Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts 2517 Seiferth Rd., Madison, WI 53716 (800) 362-1025 Fax (608) 223-9403 Great guy and known to have the best rebuilt lever shocks around. Plus, you can get parts for you daily drivers too. Gerard "gerardchateau" 7741... MORE
Man, you guys are doing it the hard way! Get yourself some seats from a Miata or one of the smaller sportier Hondas. You will pick up 3 or 4 inches at the base and 6+ at the shoulders. you will be surprised at the comfort gained from a better reclining position that the stock seats will affort, especially ain a square body. Gerard "gerardchateau" 7739... MORE
If you take the standard dynamic ignition settings from the Haynes manual you're supposed to disconnect the VA... I agree though that when running a Weber you should junk the VA and modify the mechanical advance to your requirements. James "jamesbilsland" 7714... MORE
