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Graham True, the o-rings don't come with the rebuild kit - I didn't have a problem ordering them a couple of years ago. Try asking (in the UK at least) for o-rings for the 12" wheel Mini - the calipers are identical to Midget ones other than the mounting bolt holes... The pads are the same too so if you can't get uprated Midget ones order Mini (1980 onwards) pads. James "jamesbilsland" 6827... MORE
Tim There is no reason why caliper halves should not be separated as long as they are reassembled correctly and new seals are used. I had a set of 'split/rebuilt/reassembled' calipers on my FISC race car for a couple of seasons with absolutely no problems. I think the 'no splitting' rule came about because manufacturers are paranoid about safety and brake systems and do not want enthusiastic idiot owners to risk their lives - the way I look at it though is that I have a greater interest in my own safety than some dumb kid sitting at a... MORE
I rebuilt my disc calipers and after separating the caliper halves I read that you're never supposed to do that, opps. Does anyone know why other that the chance of getting debris on the mating surfaces? Also I found my disc cups to be worn on the sides where thet would stick on, perhaps that's why your calipers are sticking. I bought new cups, have yet to install them. TimS '63 Sprite MkII Detroit, Mi "Summers, Tim" 6824... MORE
Got the brake hoses off and was hoping that the pads would let loose of the right hand disc when I removed the hose and let off any pressure in the line. But that didn't happen, the pads are still tight up against the disc. Would this indicate that I'll need to rebuild the caliper? Thanks Bob Irwin rlirwin@... 6806... MORE
OK listers I need a bit of advice. The 69 MGC GT I bought a few months ago came with a spare engine. The engine currently in the car has spun a rod bearing so I'm not driving it right now now. As an added bonus it is the original motor :) so I want to rebuilt it to factory specs. I started tearing down the spare yesterday. This is where the advice part comes in: The DPO has never actually seen the motor run. I have completely dissassembled the head and cleaned the carbon deposits. I opened the... MORE
Morning, Mr. Fornal! It's 28 degrees in Stamford, CT; wish I was in Texas!! Agree on current Lucas "cheapo" stuff though I believe Peter C. of nosimports carries the "quality" replacement stuff, assuming such "quality" supply is available. I was having a problem with rotors "splitting" as they could not handle electrical potential of PerTronix if plug gaps opened beyond .028. Peter sent me several of his "quality" rotors. Found these much more "heavily constructed and am able to run .032 gaps with no problems in current stock 1098 "A" Series. Your remedy makes good sense, otherwise. I think... MORE
On the picture it looks better than it was. The paint was broken all over. When we started to get all the paint of (yes, pictures will follow very soon), we saw that the right rear screen was very bad. The car is now almost ready, we're still waiting for some parts, but it has already it's dutch license. We also have driven some days with it. It's great, the MG-fever really has got us now. Have a great and very MG 2002. Jan "Jan Bos" 6737... MORE
Ya know, Allen- I figured this might be the case. Writing a book about what others know doesn't make the author an expert in ALL matters pertaining thereto, despite this author's obvious personal in-depth experience and knowledge on the subject and all the modification "links" to same. This would be just too much to expect. For good general knowledge I would certainly appreciate Daniel's advice but would more appreciate that from Frank C. and other listers who virtually "build" these cars on a continuous and continuing basis. I am not the "hands on guy" I used to be in... MORE
Brent- Have been reading postings from guys with 1500's regarding comments on bearings and oil pumps, etc., with engines approaching 50-60K. Interesting. Incidentally, when I was younger and running tuned and even stock Series A engines, I religously changed rod bearings at 25K and checked the center main as well. Back then I used to keep the revs up and we didn't have synthetics. Today my driving style is all about smoothness and the engine(s) very rarely see more than 4.5K with better filters and oil at that. Only once had an oil pump begin to go and replaced... MORE
Roger I rebuilt my 1500 at just about 50K miles. Oil pressure was not real bad but because I did some damage to a piston and head I rebuilt the whole thing. Some of the rod and main bearings showed quite a bit of wear, down to the copper stuff. I don't know how much longer it would have lasted but probably not very long. I purchased the car with 47K. The PO told me it was rebuilt awhile back but I doubt it by the looks of the bearings. The cyclinder walls were also out of round. What... MORE
My Spridget is still stock (levers) in the rear....IMHO, the rear suspension isn't as critical in this regard (but I do intend to convert to tube shocks on rear this winter)....I saw a site (don't remember where) that implied that conversion of rear was fairly simple, seemed like all you had to do (I think) was invert the original shock connect plate on the leaf spring (and surprisingly, listed the same shocks I used for front...I guess because they're short). BTW, there are lots of pre-made conversion kits for this pupose (from Wheelwright, Frontline, Peter May, etc.). Some of... MORE
Pete: Victoria British, Winner's Circle, MiniMania and others sell protective padding wrapped in vinyl or leather. Or you can buy padding from Summit, etc. and using wide, semi-gloss electrical or Mystic-type tape, wrap it yourself for a neat, "vintage" look (very cool!). Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 6623... MORE
Hi Guys, Hope you're all doing fine out there in Spridget world...have a Great Christmas & New Year. Since I last wrote, the 'madness' has subsided; I didn't buy a MG Metro Turbo and have given up the idea of a spridget turbo, it seems quite complex, and other more worthy folk have done it and been there already. So, not content with a slow moving Frogeye restoration (2 1/2 years so far...) and not having mush cash to hand, a mild madness returned & I blew part of the restoration fund on a cheap, scruffy but structurally sound... MORE
Hi Mike I saw the updated article today. Very good. I think not having to worry about the ravages of salty roads and rust must be wonderful. Ps. some of us may well head out for an afternoon(post hangover) New Years Day romp in the Frogs around Hyde Park etc. Interested? Happy Christmas to every one on the list. Gary L London "garyloisuk" 6563... MORE
Dear all For those interested the site has been updated with some photos of Geoffrey Healey at the Classic Car Show (B'ham 1989) and later at The Cape, Warwick with the car. http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/news1/plastic_frog.htm Mike M. North London mike643mnp@... 6562... MORE
Tim, It's actually a Bentely manual I believe that they are available from M**s or Mini Mania. I did compare it to the factory manual and it's very close. The only short coming is the lack of alot of the drawings that are in the factory manual. I've had my copy for 20 years. Martyn meastwood1@... "Martyn Eastwood" 6532... MORE
Two things tonight: 1) I keep seeing someone using my subject in their title (Rick's '73 Midget (As the Midget Dribbles). This doesn't upset, bother me, etc, but it does confuse me when I try reading the messages looking for replies to my postings. To the individual posting a reply/message, do you know you can just send a new posting to midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com ?? 2) I used a new set of feeler gauges tonight to check the crank shaft end float and with the standard thrust washers in place and got a 0.005" gauge to fit easily. So I ordered... MORE
Friend of mine's brother in the Philly area has this MGB for sale. I have no interest and only know what he wrote below...caveat emptor. Sound a little high but he may be negotiable. I though someone on the list might be interested. Robert Houston Spridget and TR4 1978 MG B Garage Queen Serial Number GHN5UJ460650G This car has been driven less than a thousand miles a year for the past five years. It has no rust and has been garage kept under a padded cover since refurbishing in 1995. There are 74,200 miles on the odometer but less... MORE
When I rebuilt mine took me awhile to figure that one out. So far it's running real good. 1000 miles and no leaks but I lie too. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 6468... MORE
Some time back I reported this horrible noise from the trans on over-run when hot. I rebuilt the prop shaft,fitted a recon diff (& rebuilt the rear suspension),still no joy. So I popped the engine & split the gearbox.As I did so,this mangled setscrew fell out from inside the bellhousing. Seems the noise was this rattling round beating up the clutch cover etc.It came from the backplate which explains the bad oil leak I've had.Also the sticky oil in the housing held the setsrew until it warmed up.Finally I guess the crank movement on lift off caused the ring... MORE
Brad, I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune and to hear that Ebay pulled your feedback, negative positive or neutral=85 actually I'm very surprised they did it. The seller must have had a very good story. But as far as Ebay goes with me=85 they were there for me when I needed them. Of course I had to do a ton of paperwork to get any results. I had purchased a set of DCOE carburetors that were said to be "In working order" and when they arrived I found that I couldn't open the main throttle valves because they... MORE
Dan and Drew, This is not the case. I have (had) a pair of offset springs on my vintage race Bugeye. I don't think they are available anymore as I was looking for some without success when one of mine cracked. I think Winner's Circle had them at one time, but I think your best bet is to go to a spring shop and have them made to your spec. I found a couple places in the east bay that would do it and it wasn't that expensive. You can get a pattern off mine if you want. I... MORE
Rick Which oil pump are you using? Does it have a steel back or an alloy 'finned' back? I have known some alloy pumps sit out too far on a Midget engine (they are designed for Minis & Metros) which means that the cover fouls and the backplate won't seal. BTW when you rebuilt your engine did you use new pistons or did you re-ring the old pistons? James "jamesbilsland" 6405... MORE
Hi Rick, I know exactly what you are going thru. After pulling my brand new 948 rebuilt engine for the third time I gave up and took it to a professional and to my surprise the leak is gone. Mine was pissing oil almost as fast as I could put it in (well not quite that fast). I went thru the same checks that you performed, crankcase pressure check, replaced scroll seal with new fancy seal(Big bucks). The only thing that was not stock was the cam(kent 266), 40 thou over on the pistons, shaved the head a bit... MORE
Group I copied this from another group. Thought some may be interested. Dougp 77 I have lots of good used parts that I would love to clean out of my garage. Here are just a few: -(S springs): Offset rear springs for 1/4 eliptic spridgets- $200 -1 1/4" Comptune carbs with manifold- $400 -Fully ported and polished 948 head with large (chevy type) valve springs and Titanium keepers. Believed to have been done by Huffacker- $900 -Full roller rockers for 948- $300 -948 unmodified heads- $100ea -8qt Peterson Drysump tank- $200 -+40 Venolia Pistons and rings for a 948... MORE
