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I have been trying to get info on switching my vehicle from pos. earth to neg. earth. Some info obtained gave a list of things to do: change batt. cables to match battery terminal sizes, reset the field on the dynamo for neg. earth, how to change the electrical tach if so equipped, and how to reset the fan for the heater/defroster motor. No mention was made to the starter?? Many years ago when I was young(Ahem), and there was some electrical kits with motors in them, I noticed that if the power supply (DC) was reversed, the motor... MORE


Thanks for the advice. I found that the best way to get the paint off was to use a sort of thick acidic jelly I had in the shed designed for removing textured paint. It's a bit less intense than standard paint stripper but is designed to be left on for several hours without drying out so that it penetrates better. I found that about 30 minutes after application I could brush off most of the paint leaving a nice clean surface underneath. This, followed by a good rinse, and wipe over gave me the chrome grill I wanted.... MORE


Wings & Wheels British car show at Santa Monica, CA this Sunday, Sept, 30th. Anyone on Lists attending? I am planning on driving up to W&W show, would like to place some faces with names of other Listers if they are in attendance. Unfortunately, Bugeye is far from ready so will be driving non-LBC. Also, am planning on going to San Diego British Car show in Fallbrook the following Sunday, Oct. 7. Would like to meet up with other Listers if possible. Regards Jim Rogers San Juan Capistrano, CA jarplanner@... 4912... MORE


I've got two 5" mounted in the cardboard panel / bulkhead between the boot (trunk) and the car. There's a bit of plywood behind them for strength on to which I've bolted an amp... It came this way and I retained this during the restoration. Although it involves cutting the panel, replacements are easy to come by if you want to go back to original spec. It also doesn't take up any of the valuable storage space... I built a new centre console to house my CD player, cigar lighter (for the mobile phone charger) courtesy light etc. I'm... MORE


If anyone is interested I placed some pics of the rebuild in the photos section under MG before and after. Doug 77 dougp@... 4887... MORE


Nice suggestion David , but I'm in UK and I suspect you are in a land far away. I'm going to try cleaning the paint off my black grill first as was suggested. Regards, Dave C dave.clark55@... 4850... MORE


Hi folks I would like to thank everyone for the help with my 1500 rebuild. It looks like everything is OK. Last night I fiddled with the timing and the carb. After much fiddling it idles fairly well at 1000 RPM. Right now the max advance is about 28 deg and at idle 10 to 12 deg. The exhaust note it a bit irregular but I expect with the cam. It reves up very smoothly has good oil pressure and holds that pressure when hot.I have a Monza exhaust and if it goes as will as it sounds I... MORE


Dave Carefully clean the black paint off your original grille - hey presto! - chrome (-ish) grille. Steve Southampton, UK "Steve Clark" 4832... MORE


Roadtest of rebuilt prop shaft seemed great at first. Then I tried some full throttle,and on lifting off I got loud clattering noises from underneath.Following previous logic is this diff.bearings breaking up? Any advice would be most welcome. Steve 72 midget "Steve Cowling" 4795... MORE


Dear all, For the technically minded among you I wonder if you can help with my current project? I have an extremely rotted 1968 1275 Spridget & a good bare 1500 shell which I'd like to transfer all the 1275 running gear & trim onto. What modifications need to be done to the 1500 shell in order to fit all the 1275 gear ? I have already changed the front wings / nose cone to chrome bumper & removed the reinforcing box sections from the front inner wings & boot floor. What is the easiest way to bring the... MORE


I'm hearing lots of advice to "just pop the new stud into the hole".. Apparently these gurus havent tried that with a rear stud. If its on the rear, you'll have to pull the hub. An unbroken stud is juuust a little too long to get between the hub and the brake backplate. My Sprite had a couple of short studs from an A30 in the rear- looks like the DPO was too lazy to pull the hub. Dont fit short studs. While the hub is off, here's a simple modification to make changing a stud easier in future;... MORE


Used other similar products that also say remove excess with thinners. I always thought that this stuff only cured when in contact with rust and hence the uncured stuff had to be removed. I always do this and the next coat sticks fine. Terry "Terry Isherwood" 4765... MORE


Tom As per your recommendation 150/155. I had 135/140 before with the stock ca m and that seemed to work fine. I backed off on milling the head from .100 to .080 though. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 4744... MORE


Oil pressure up before firing the engine? YES - if you can. Otherwise, try hand cranking (leave the rocker cover off and turn the engine) until oil appears. Use the starter motor if you are happy with that. If you wish, jack up one rear wheel with the car in 4th and turn that (h/brake off :-)) and that will turn the engine over if you are not happy about using the starter motor. Be sure to turn it in a vehicle forwards rotation, as far as wear is concerned wrong way rotation is a big no-no for the... MORE


Doug, You are running almost exactly the same setup as we did when we rebuilt our motor. What jets are you running in the Weber? Regards, Tom Speed "Thomas Speed" 4731... MORE


Have question not sure if I read this here or where I may have read it. But am I correct in saying that before starting a rebuilt egine for the first time one should leave the plugs out and turn the engine over until you get oil pressure and than start it Doug 77 dougp@... 4716... MORE


I've been reading through the messages (about halfway through.. Wow, that's a lot of messages in the archive!) trying to get some basic info. I just acquired a 1979 Midget for a VERY reasonable cheap amount. I know the previous owner, so the information I have on it is accurate. Here's the info, and here's the question: The original manifold and carb have been replaced with a Weber and I'm told that the performance was greatly increased. However, it was 'fudged' through the California smog check that last time it was registered (1989). My understanding is that it would... MORE


Arnold- Oh, stock Metro! OK You already have recommendations for "basic" needle strarting point I previously sent you along with jet and spring rec. as well and know turbo-Metro set-up is suck through from prior mail as well. So, you are off to fine start. Understand you are fabricating a manifold a la the Dean approach. Good show! Yes, Arnold, do keep me advised and I will get the Aldon advance map to you over the internet ASAP, I promise. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 4705... MORE


Hi James, The breather runs into the carbs. Can you explain a bit more about a catch tank please? I've done about 1000 miles since rebuild and have tightened head bolts, I have not taken it over 4500 rpm, but I would have thought it was bedded in by now. But I'm no expert on these matters Paul. "Paul T" 4659... MORE


James- Personally, "no" as to sucking through one or both barrels of a 45DCOE: not to my taste so to speak! :) As for the engine, "no" again, though I've used this carb. successfully on a 1300+ Series A I used to run in my '74 RWA Midget. Basic needle selection for the SU is a matter of getting advice and assistance from those more educated in these matters than I. Fortunately, I have obtained excellent advice from other listers so experienced, both on this and Judson lists, James, the latest being from Dave Munroe in Halifax. This fellow... MORE


Does one not need a special (or modified) carb for a forced induction system insofar as the carb needs to be wholly within the pressurised environment. I guess this is maybe not the case if the blower sucks (rather than blows). I guess Arnold may well have reached the point where he thinks his blowers sucks! Jeremy '63 Sprite - Kept up with a Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe going to Goodwood at the weekend - OK so we were in a queue of traffic but still great to be in such exalted company! "Jeremy Cogman" 4639... MORE


I have a 948 that I had given to me. I have been asked to part with the head to help out a concours restoration. The problem is, this head has a fitting for the temp gauge. From what I have been reading the last two days, I have one of two options available now. It is a 948 "S" head, or more than likely a 1098 head. Is there anyone out there in either lister land that knows the #'s if I were to post them??? Brad Brad Fornal 4666... MORE


Hello everyone Does any one have a picture or even a color sceem of what a 1971 1275cc Midget's engine and transmission would look like? I would like to paint one of my spare motors and display it at a local show. Thanks Jason "Jason Gross" 4649... MORE


Dave It sounds to me like your engine is sucking air somewhere... (vacuum leak as you indicate) I suggest you check the carb gaskets and that all the breather hoses and vacumm advance pipes are in the correct place. I'd ignore the plugs until you are sure you have a sealed inlet system. It is quite possible that a '67 car would be sold in '68 - they used to sit around at the docks for quite a while... Conversion from positive to negative earth is a common modification - especially if you want to fit a radio/cassette/cd player.... MORE


Yes. Interestingly (to me anyway), according to my title, this is a '68, but according to the serial number list in my Moss catalog, this is a model year '67. I'm (obviously) a little confused about the state of this car, as the tach indicates "positive ground", and my information would indicate (based on serial #) that it should be positive ground, yet it is set up negative ground... there has been a lot of amateur work done in the past, so it is going to be tough to undo... I may have to bite the bullet and take... MORE