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http://mossmotors.com/heritagemotorcentre/htc.html I think this is the heritage the site RH "hall.ray" 330... MORE
BMH ( British motor heritage) is still owned by BMW (crazy I know but true ). Ford have Landrover, MG Rover have MG, Riley and Mini (classic, as in the one that has ceased production) and the current Rover range, BMW have retained the titles Triumph, Wolseley and Mini. Tim Fenna www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/ "Tim Fenna" 324... MORE
Hello, The full name is British Motor Indusryt Heritage Trust . They can give you all of the details on your car. They are a subsidiary of the Rover Group. For around 40.00 U.S. if you give them the Car/Chassis Number they can provide you with the original engine number, Body number, Specification as to right hand or left hand drive from the factory, original colors , date built, date despatched, destination, Key Number, and the detals of equipment. I dont have a web site for them but their address is as follows: British Motor Industry Hertiage Trust Archive... MORE
1960 frogeye rebuild in progress , the heater blower is out of line with the heater box its about 30 cm high. I am being told that there are different blower casings,if so how do I know which one I've got and which one I need , any info welcomed Regards Ian ianmbarton@... 311... MORE
-ok-gimme a call. work (510) 360-5525 or home (current home anyways) 925-426-0971 after 6:30pm. btw, how much rust and where? Mike ashtin49@... 297... MORE
Mike, Where are you? If in the States, try www.wirewheel.com, Hayes should have at least one restoration project car available. Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 292... MORE
hey all; new to this group, looking for bugeye roller for restoration project. any connections lemme know prefer bay area ca or surrounding; no rust. eng and trans not imporntant. $2k to invest. thanks in advance! Mike ashtin49@... 274... MORE
Mike, I've got a 59 Bugeye that I had just started the restoration on but didn't get too far.I've got to many other projects going on right now & need the room in the garage. It does have some rust, engine & trany out on the floor, front end off. I live in Campbell near San Jose. Let me know if your interested & maybe we could hook up on the phone to talk about the car, so that we don't bother the list with the details. Glen Young 2 59 Bugeyes (maybe down to one soon / my... MORE
The modification is called a Mk IV Sprite! It has the pull-up softtop. The rear deck is modified to make this work - the exterior metalwork between the seats and the bootlid has been narrowed and the lip is different. I guess you could cut/weld the bodywork from a dead mk IV shell.... Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 268... MORE
yours is definitely non standard, any sprite shop will be able to supply what you need. ken "Ken O Beirne" 261... MORE
I am still looking into restoring my bugeye hardtop. Still haven't found a really good copy for the weather striping. Someone suggested JC Whitney, but have yet to check them out. Someone also stated the top was unfinished on the inside, but mine has a black type paint and I recently saw another one done similarly. Any consensus on this issue? Also while checking out another hardtop I came to the sad realization that it is also supposed to have a rubber trim around the side windows also, damn, I have none? Probably would explain the obnoxious rattling from... MORE
Power buffing causing distortion.... I can believe that. Funny how the article didn't mention it though. I suppose use of a rotary buffer on glass is just as tricky as use of the same thing on paint. If you don't know how to use it you can leave swirl marks and even burn through the paint. I learned that the hard way, but I can rotary buff black cars now without even a trace of a swirl. I wonder if the same would apply to the glass? Any comments? Keith C. Adams Ft Lauderdale, FL 69 MG Midget kcadams01@...... MORE
Bob, If you have a right hand drive the car may well have been like mine, orignally a home market car. Have you checked with British Motor Heritage? At any rate the cars were shipped to the U.S. in that time frame and it should not be a problem getting insurance. Bob 60 AN5 Tampa, FL MTGBRKR1@... 241... MORE
Techie Question - I would like to swap my standard 4.22 differential for something with a higher gearing. I know the later 3.9 is the most common swap but I am interested if the 3.73 differential from the 1500 Midget will go into a rear housing from a Sprite MkII. Would the crown & pinion fit directly into the older rear housing? Is some machining necessary? Or would it be necessary swap the entire rearend and axles? This rearend will be going into my Bugeye, which will be a daily driver when finished. I do a lot of freeway... MORE
Hi list, Thanks for all the responses / advices.... I'm planning to do the following: - Wire brush / sand all spots that are going to be welded down to bare metal - Treat the bare areas with a weld-trough zinc primer - Treat the rest of the sills with a good rust inhibiting primer (corroless) - Paint the correless area - Weld the new outer-sill in place - Drill extra holes in the outer-sills - Spray waxoyl trough the holes in the outer-sills I hope that will keep my sills healthy for another 35 years or so...(it lasted... MORE
David, The bonett on my car was Ospho'd and then primed with a self etching primer a year ago, it has been sitting on its end since then with no other paint applied and in that time not one bit of rust has appeared. Bob 60 AN5 Tampa,FL MTGBRKR1@... 225... MORE
This is just a tidbit of information for you guys out there. When spraying body panels that have been cleaned down to bare metal in any spot, be it the size of a coin or the entire bonnet, there are a variety of options available when it comes to primering. I have found a rather good self-etching zinc primer is available through NAPA in the US market. The primer is rather thin, so it can't be used for blemish filling or anything of that nature. It's only purpose is to be sprayed on the parts of your car reduced... MORE
Considering the repair you're attempting to make I can see you're point. I wish I could tell you a brand of primer to use, but unfortunately, I don't even know if there is such a thing as a rust inhibiting weld through primer ... there may very well be, but I sure haven't seen it. As far as sticking to a surface which still has traces of rust, I know there are a number of primers that can do it, but I don't know if any of them are weld through primers. Hmmm... this is a tough sort of... MORE
Hi, I agree the statement that the weld is as good as the underlaying material... but you're not right on some other things... Primers can have rust inhibiting pigments and aren't only intended as a basis for paint....What the real problem might be for my specific purpose is to find a weldable primer which will inhibit rust and stick to not completely rust-free metal...Since the application is in a more or less closed box (sills), there won't be to much water / salt coming in (and I'm not planning to drive the Midget in the Winter when the salt... MORE
Hello, all, My 60, is currently and has been under the welders knife, the car has been bead blasted and stripped. I have replaced both rocker panels and will, prior to , cover the entire car with Ospho (Spelling?) a rust inhibotor. After that has dried for 2 days the car will be painted with a good self etching primer. Short of galvanizing this is what I have been told is the best solution. The rockers can be hit on the inside through the jacking points. Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 213... MORE
Another option you might want to consider while the sills are off the car is to put a smaller box section onto the inner sill (that fits beneath the outer sill). It is relatively easy to make up a box section that fits and to weld it onto the inner sill then prime and paint it thoroughly before putting on the stock sill. It is completely hidden and adds to the strength of the sills with only a minimal weight increase. It ( the inner box section) also helps to reinforce the jacking point(s) that go through the sill.... MORE
Hi Doug + rest, Thanks for all the good advices so far, but can anyone recommend a specific weld-through-primer? Since I'm not able to get to the inside of the sills after welding, the job of rust protecting has to be done in a proper way before the welding of the outer-sill starts....When everything is in place I will of course Waxoyl the inner sides as good as possible, but I have the feeling that Waxoyl alone isn't sufficient for a good rust protection. By the way, I'm not planning to replace the inner-sill, reparing of the front 10-20cm... MORE
Okay, so perhaps use of a weld-ready primer would be nice. In my experience however, use of weld primer is useless in a repair situation and useful only on fabrication of new welded assemblies only. In light of the fact that a weld is only as good as the metal it's welded to and the fact that these cars aren't made from the highest grade of steel I wouldn't bother trying to use the primer on it as it is unlikely to assist in further rusting of the existing parts at a future date. If I had gobs of... MORE
Well, thanks to all that have helped and provided information over the past year, but I think my search has finally ended to find the correct color blue vinyl material for the hood of my almost restored 66 midget, Riviera Blue. My search has led me to all corners of the earth (via internet) and I have been unable to find anyone that still fabricates that light color blue in vinyl. I can't even find the correct color vinyl for the panels. SO...my next question is, has anyone dyed a hood or vinyl to achieve the correct color? I... MORE
Hi, I'm about to start some welding to my Midget... What is the best way of preparing the inner sides of the sills? Is it possible to use some kind of rust inhibiting primer before the welding is done? (remember the welding still has to be done and it's going to be hot...) Thanks for your advices! Eeg GAN3 eeg.oberije@... 198... MORE
