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Well, not quite. Use of a weld-through-primer will help to prevent future corrosion between the pieces you are joining. You will want to give consideration to the fumes given off by the weld-through-primer as it is heated during welding. You might want to wear a respirator. Doug Ingram Victoria BC 1958 Sprite (AN5L/636) 1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003) rust. snip "Doug Ingram" 203... MORE

All metals being welded should be completely free of dirt, paint, and rust. However, the area surrounding the proximity of the weld can have paint on it. Whether or not it will stay there during welding depends on the paint itself and the temperatures reached during welding. As far as a good rust proofing for the interior panels goes, (I think this is what you're asking), I would just assemble it all as clean as I could make it, then use a rustproofing underbody spray to treat the area afterwards. Keith C. Adams Ft. Lauderdale, FL 1969 Midget kcadams01@...... MORE

Bugeye won't be on the road until this summer after ground up restoration, BUT I can't help thinking about what the next project might be. I am kicking around the idea of a Big British Truck to go along with my LBC. Thinking in terms of a British equivalent to a Ford or Chevy pickup truck, 50s, 60, or maybe early 70s. Is there such an animal, especially to be found here in the US? and with a reasonable price/condition? The only British pickup I've ever seen myself is an Austin Mini, definitely no go for towing broken down... MORE

Like Jeremy Cogman I really do recommend getting the David Vizard book if you want to 'have a go' at engine modifications - it covers pretty much everything you need to know. I would be really cautious about starting to modify a 12G295 cylinder unless you have a spare one (and they don't grow on trees) - it is really easy to mess up and end up with a few pounds (or are we on kilos on this list now...) of scrap cast iron... "James Bilsland" 98... MORE

Hello fellow sprigeteers! I could use some advise, and by subscribing to this site I realize there are a helluva lot of members with alot more knowledge that I. I have a '61 bugeye with a 1098. handles great, but it is starved for power. If I limit myself to say $500 - $600, what would be the best way to add some speed. the exhaust is stock, as are the carbs. Thanks Alex West Palm Beach "Alex del Russo" 78... MORE

Hi Jim, Just use good ol' cheap and cheerful SAE 20/50 in engine and gearbox (presume engine is standard). David Smith Pee173@... 49... MORE

Hi List Have heard a lot of discussion on types of oil to use for breaking in a new engine. Should something similar be done with a rebuilt ribcase gearbox? If so, what kind of oil? for how many miles? Jim Rogers San Juan Capistrano, CA 59 Bug "Jim Rogers" 41... MORE

modified so that the hood hinges on the front. So with the hood tilted forward, I can't get at the timing marks at all. Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated. Bob Irwin rlirwin@... 42... MORE

I suspect that the steering arms would foul the discs (standard problem on Spridgets with big brakes) you can either: - 1. Bend the arms (not recommended) 2. Space the arms inwards (changes steering geometry) 3. Use rose joints instead of track rod ends (my personal favourite) 4. Fabricate new steering arms (make sure they're strong! - likewise will change steering geometry) 5. Mix and match of above... Personally I'd be reluctant to use frogeye stub axles on a really modified car - even the later stub axles aren't the strongest items... James Bilsland Charing UK "James Bilsland" 36... MORE