MAIN
Specifications
Next Page
Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load driving...like around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE
"Sensibly nippy at reasonable cost" Oh...no problem Ken Charles...for we here to serve!! :) May I suggest you take a look at the spec. of Rivergate's rebuilt performance 1275 for the street? www.rivergate5speed.com Click on the "blue" and on page 2 scroll down the left margin 'til you see the pictured engine whereupon....there you go! :) You can rebuild your's to the same spec....tried and proven by "those who know"!! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22640... MORE
No, no Beckers!! Don't lay this on me....wrong guy!! :) Vizard dyno testing shows little, if any performance gain with 1.5 rockers except at higher rpms....me, I'm just the messenger!! Good point about the side loading on the valve stems...absolutely...."rollers" are the way to go in this respect for sure in any case, and the higher the lift, the more "side loading" becomes an issue in wear and tear in terms of "travel" across the stem end. My point is to have an idea of what you want in this respect to begin with, then educate oneself on how... MORE
I have a 8/75 mg midget and am having a major problem with it. The problem is that has way too much negative camber, tip in at top of tire, on the left front. I have replaced the off center bushings in the left lower a-arm, bought a shop manual from Moss and checked the measurements on the pivot points for the lower a-arms, checked the distance measurements on the left lower a-arm against the right lower a-arm, pulled and checked the left shock mount to see if it had been modified and it hasn't. I guess my question... MORE
I was wondering the correct engine starting procedure for a 1972 MGB 1800CC 4spd w/electric fuel pump and twin SU carbs. I can usually get it to start with manual choke on third try after pump stops clicking without touching the acceelerator pedal. I was wondering what the original owners manual said, if anything. The car was recently given to me and it has become my duty to bring it back to order. I have rebuilt and adjusted the carbs as well as performed normal tune-up procedures. Your help is appreciated! "nipper6579" 22575... MORE
Nigel, Thanks for the lesson. The manual that came with the welder, a similar model to yours, 90 amp MIG flux wire high and low switch, only gave instructions on changing the wire but no instructions on how to use it except to brush the metal with the wire tip to start the ark . . . that was it. It has a wire speed control . . . but nothing said about setting it for various jobs ?? Came with a 4" spool of .030 wire. also uses .035 wire but I haven't a clue as to the... MORE
"The car has a manual 5speed in good condition. Has new radiator,tires (on 280zx rims), and hoses.Motor is bad. Body has rust. Be a good parts car or restoration project. $300 obo. Also have other motor parts for building a motor (pistons,block,etc.) I am located in Cocoa, FL. (321)638-407 or email huxeric@... " DLancer7676@... 22427... MORE
Bree, I think you must be talking about a MAnifold Pressure sensor. If so it should be in a threaded "boss" in the induction manifold or in some tube attached to the manifold. I'm not sure of what I speak here, but a Haynes manual for that car would tell you. I'm a bit surprised that a car as old as an '86 would have a MAP sensor, but ............... Good luck & Rgds., Tony P. "anthony pooley" 22418... MORE
Actually, Jeremy... The crankcase pressure is in and of itself the propellent in a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system, the former of which I prefer for exactly the reason you state in your post to Guy Weller....less dilution of already diluted octanes. Fr'instance, I think it was Chris who mentioned dragsters with vacuum pumps hooked up to evacuate crankcase pressure and considering THEIR applications I can well nigh understand this, considering THEIR crankcase pressures!! Whoa, whoa!! :) Obviously, for the normal LBC daily driver this would be overkill but the point is made, though we are talking apples and... MORE
Well, Chris... Intelligent routing of "ventilation hoses" (vertical travel) and/or a draught tube run off a "catch can" makes "liquid pollution" a thing of the past in any case. I don't know what everbody else looks for when they check their oil level at least once a week but, I know what I look for besides oil level. The reek of gasoline is all pervading, believe me! If you are not smelling this (it pervades the atmosphere around and within the car, especially on older vehicles which is our subject) or noticing a definite drop off in performance while... MORE
"Could you re-route.....to scavenge crankcase gases" Well, you'd be pressurizing the catch can prior to the draught tube or filter I guess. If the pressure was more than was present in the crankcase vent lines, it would pressurize these, as well as the draft tube unless you used one way valves in the lines from the crankcase to the catch can. If you could run the tube from the smog pump through the catch can and down vertically toward the road surface, you'd have a pressurized draught tube and by punching some small holes in the portion of the... MORE
If you can find a copy of David Vizard's Book on Tuning the A-series engine, he shows exactly how to go about constructing a crankcase vacuum system, or evacupan, as he calls it. No blowers or motors required, no moving parts, very effective. "Jeffrey Holmes" 22347... MORE
My haynes manual details the 'moving outwards' method for undoing and doing up. It's always worked for me. "Jeremy Cogman" 22270... MORE
Hello everyone, I am just about to remove the cylinder head from my Sprite IV engine. I am not an engine tech guru, and I am following instructions from manual(s) (plus my little personal experience). In the Haynes Workshop manual and in the Haynes Restoration manual the method for loosening the cylinder head nuts is to start from the outside nuts (inc. the rocker assesmbly nuts) and work in removing diagonally opposite nuts in turn. In the official Sprite and Midget workshop manual and in the MG Midget and AH Sprite book by J. Tyler exactly the opposite is... MORE
Chris... All of this is true but, I wonder how all those cars prior to PCV systems ever survived, including my much loved and long lasting VW Bug with it's long-lasting, "ventilated" GEX 1600 engine! Not to mention my beautifully running old 1098 that came in my BE all those other pre-PCV equipped cars I've owned including those two great MGA's of yesteryear, who's later varient got the add-on (not "integral" to engine spec. as in modern applications) system. I mean for sure, somebody should have told Henry Ford! :) Do you know how much gasoline you'd have to... MORE
man, you guys are incredible! two hours ago I didn't even know what thrust washers were, now I'm getting lessons in engine rebuilding. Is "crankshaft endfloat" the spec I'm supposed to look up? In the Haynes manual it's speced at .006 to .0014 .. does that sound right? Thanks again for all the help. George "chuibuddy" 22204... MORE
Before you commit to pulling the engine check and make sure it is the thrust bearings. You can check the play in the crankshaft at the front pulley. I don't have my manual handy right now but they do give the max spec for crankshaft movement fore and aft. This measurement will tell you if that is the problem or send you looking elsewhere. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 Sprite 'Ole Gray' in "The Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie' under restoration http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff Jones" 22200... MORE
Max.... First of all, you have to confirm the water temp. gauge is reading accurately and not errorneously on the high side. Check your's with a thermometer or mechanic's gauge. Second, what range of thermostadt are you running? .......and is it "opening" at the correct temperature. The easiest way to check this would be by simple substitution. Thirdly, what is the outside air temperature at which these running temps are recorded? Usually, you run a 68c thermostadt when outside air temps. are expected to go to 20C+ and a 75c thermo. when expected to go much below 10c. For... MORE
Hi everyone, just become the proud owner of a beautiful '76 midget. Although originally from "the mother country", I now live in Savannah, Georgia, USA. This car is in amazing condition with a fully documented 33,000 miles. Trouble is, it runs like a pig! I'm hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction. This car was originally a california car and has had all the emission stuff removed. The plugs are covered with black soot. Seems to be running very rich. The carb has been replaced with a (new looking) Weber. I noticed that the... MORE
Go to the group homepage and search the archive there will probably be top (or hood as we confusingly call it over here) fitting advice in there. You also probably want to get a least one manual, factory, bentley or haynes. The other book that will be useful to you is the Lindsey Porter restoration book. This definitely has a hood fitting section in it. A search of the archives will also reveal some useful recommisioning advice but as a starter don't forget to: Change all fluids including hydraulic fluids. Grease the front suspensions. Check the wiper blades they... MORE
Bill.... "Sidebar"...... Was going to check further on the PerTronix/tach accuracy at higher rpm situation today but major accident on RT.95 along with construction on the "northern route" squelched this short trip! Tomorrow looks better (I hope!). Where a PCV valve or later "closed loop" breathing system is not employed (later post '67 system encompassing fuel system), there exists no means to evacuate crankcase pressure/vapours. David Vizard points the way in this respect in accordance with his "bible" on Series A engines. In such a case.... one must go back in time to the pre-emission "ventilation" theory. In practice,... MORE
deceleration sensor. Most modern cars have one though I'm not aware that it was ever standard fitment on any Spridgets, even US Spec ones. If the car is subject to a high deceleration (or acceleration for that matter I suspect) i.e. an accident, then it will shut off the fuel pump or maybe even close a solenoid operated valve in the fuel line. If it works and is reliable I'd leave it there though I'd learn how to bypass it and carry the necessary bits of wire so if it does go awol when you are a hundred miles... MORE
G'day all With the recent discussions about Metro Turbo heads, Cooper S heads etc, I thought I might lend just a little advice - or if you like, a warning. Firstly, all 1275cc heads will fit all 1275cc engines. Most of these heads have casting number 12G940, and it was only the machining at the factory that made them different. Even 1275cc heads with different casting numbers will fit. So perhaps a little machining might be required, such as already mentioned about the water outlet and by-pass for the thermostat. And if you are fitting a 9 stud head... MORE
Yet another fun job. Developed a pin hole leak in the heater core on the 89 Lincoln Town Car a while back.. As the engine came up to temperature, you would get a slight antifreeze smell and a bit of steam on the inside of the windshield. More of a nuisance than anything else. Checked with the local parts house...pretty cheap replacement..$42.00 USD. Checked with my mechanic, and asked him what the old flat rate manual said about the cost of the labor. much to my surprise, the manual estimated the replacement cost of around $600.00....and called for WARRANTY... MORE
Ok...I'm looking in the Haynes Restoration manual at how to replace the seats. It goes into great detail about recovering the seats but not much into how to take the old seats out so I can put the new seats in. I'm sure it's a simple matter of unfastening some bolts but want to make sure before I start. I'm also missing the rails that the passenger seat slides on. Can those be ordered by themselves? Ginger "Virginia" 21588... MORE
