Suspension & Steering

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G'day Jeremy I can supply a "pedal pivot repair kit" (two sintered bronze bushes and a new pivot bolt) for $24 USD including postage. regards Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 22676... MORE

Jeremy, A couple of source suggestions for your bushes. Both have on-line ordering and catalog request. Victoria British or The Winners Circle 1387 Sloane Ave. Lakewood, OH 44107 216-222-4666 Of the two, Winners Circle is more likely to be of help. They are primarily racers and can get hold of a lot of stuff that isn't found elsewhere including used. Hope this provides some clues. Rob Coxworth Batavia, IL 1975 Midget (that frustrates the hell out of me) robbiesg@... 22670... MORE

Jeremy, et al. Any good machine shop should be able to make you a set of bushings for your pedal pivot points. I have made numerous bushings for other applications out of a porduct called (in the business) Oil-lite (sp) is a medium hardness red brass alloy impregnated with oil. We have used it here at the plant for years for babbit type bearings on applications much more demanding than our brake pedals. Just my tuppence worth. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210... MORE

A question for the New World listers. The bushes for dual master cylinder pedals 2A5564 has been out of stock (in fact absent from price lists) in the UK for over a decade. Do any of the US (or maybe Antipodean) suppliers claim to stock it. There is so much play in my pedals I think the bushes may well have disintegrated by now. J. "Jeremy Cogman" 22667... MORE

They do settle but are still a bit hoppy. I have some orginal springs that I'm going to make a pair out of one of these days. It's interesting that the racers use softened not stiffened springs. "Jeremy Cogman" 22665... MORE

Well, John... You've got a normal Sprite, then. LHD ones develop a list to the left...theory is over time, the Unibody structure takes a "set" and since it is normally the driver's side which is occupied the most, that's the way the body can be expected to go. The "stock" rear springs were too stiff for the car to begin with ...the 10 leaf are worse in this respect. You can take the car to a spring shop and see what they can do for you. I am not a "spring man" so I do not really know... but... MORE

Ken Charles! You can run heated or unheated. As David Jacobs states, the MG Metro runs heated. And as David says, you can run either way and see which way is best but, before you do..... you need to understand the effects of water manifold heating and why it exists. It is basically there for economy of operation in light load around town sort of stuff. As David says, heating the mixture allows for better vaporization of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner" mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part throttle, light load... MORE

I've just fitted two new leaf springs to my Frog, it now looks like a Landrover! there's a 5" gap between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch and although everthings connected correctly the poor car is listing to the right. If anyone out there has fitted these bloody "uprated" springs and has managed to return their Frog to a nomal height., please email me or ring 07931 646794 John "johnhendrusson" 22649... MORE

John H. ..... The springs will settle a bit in time. You get normal or ralleye springs. 15 leaf or the more stiff 10 leaf (I think these numbers are correct?). Your's RH drive or LH drive? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22654... MORE

A collapsed spring. Hmmm.... I will look into that possibility. What does a collapsed spring look like? Simply broken? What about a sway-bar? Will that help? The other thing that is odd is that when I am going around a slight curve and I hit some bumps, the car seems to *float* or slide a bit - it dose not seem to *hug* the road like I would expect. Maybe I need stickier tires or more weight - I suppose I picked the wrong time to go on a diet... :) Thanks Brad. -Tom "tmruwart" 22648... MORE

So I'm driving along the freeway in my 73 Midget at a nice clip of about 55-60mph on the freeway. I go around a gentle curve to the left and everything feels great. Then I go around another curve to the right and I get the sense that the car wants to roll over. It just doesn't feel quite as stable - a bit tipsy if I had to characterize it. Question: Is this just my imagination or do I have some kind of a suspension problem? Could I have week shocks on the left side of the car?... MORE

measure inside dimensions of a window frame. They each need to be somewhere about 3/4 of the track width between the inner faces of the front wheels - give or take a few inches. Measure by holding the sticks side by side and slide them lengthways so that one end of each stick contacts the face edge of each wheel rim. Mark the overlap position on the sticks accurately with a sharp pencil. Do this at the rear radius of the wheels first, with the sticks held close up to the chassis rails or engine sump. Repeat at the... MORE

As there was a thread recently regarding front end alignment, beginning with message 22461, I have posted a couple of photos of a simple apparatus that I used this week to estimate and rough-in the toe in on my Sprite this week, in case it might be useful. The apparatus comprises a 48" construction ruler, and a pair of 18" x 24" L squares. The short legs of the L squares are clamped to the opposite ends of the ruler, such that the long legs extend outwardly from the ruler and parallel to each other, such edges being separated... MORE

G'day Dermot There were two different 1098cc engines. The first ones (engine prefix 10CG in a Sprite/Midget) had the same 1.75" main bearing journals, and the same bolt pattern on the flywheel/crankshaft, as the 948cc engine. These engines were fitted to Mk II Sprites, Mk I MG Midgets, Morris Minor 1000 and Austin A40 Farina. The engines were all essentially the same except the Sprite had a different cam grind, and double valve springs. And of course twin SU carbies. It soon became apparent that the crankshafts weren't strong enough for the increase in capacity, so the next generation... MORE

It could or you could fit a spacer, machined to a wedge shape. However the studs would then no longer enter the carb perpendicular to it's face. The kludgy solution to this is to enlarge the mounting holes in the carb. The correct solution is to redrill and tap (probably filling beforehand) the stud mounting holes in the manifold. After all this effort I'd have thought it would be simpler / cheaper to get a suitable manifold. Could the manifold face be machined at an angle to, in effect, rotate the carb, or does this not help move the... MORE

Ah, Bill.... This is a very light colored interior indeed...I know the one now...much lighter than autumn leaf....I hate that yellow ochre color!! Yeechh!! Better you than me!! :):):) But yes, the darker colors for decent contrast and "compatibility" in this respect. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22600... MORE

Thanks to all who replyed. With your help , I think the interior is Yellow Ochre. It is gold/Yellow. It is not Brown/ Aut. leaf. So the best guess is that it was Teal Blue with Yellow Ochre. Still have not found a factory listing of exterior colurs and interiors. I am tending towards, Black Tulip, Green Mallard or the '74-75 Aconite. Any one with pictures of these colors? Thank you, Bill French frenchww@... 22597... MORE

Bill... I do not know what combination was offered by the factory but, you can't go wrong with one of the darker factory colors offered....I personally think it would look beautiful with Mallard Green or one of the darker British Racing Greens offered by the factory over time. When the interior of my PO'd '74 was autumn leaf, I chose a MAACO metallic "medium" blue. It contrasted beautifully with the interior which I eventually converted to black. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22596... MORE

I have a 8/75 mg midget and am having a major problem with it. The problem is that has way too much negative camber, tip in at top of tire, on the left front. I have replaced the off center bushings in the left lower a-arm, bought a shop manual from Moss and checked the measurements on the pivot points for the lower a-arms, checked the distance measurements on the left lower a-arm against the right lower a-arm, pulled and checked the left shock mount to see if it had been modified and it hasn't. I guess my question... MORE

Wimpy... If you can't correct the camber situation with one of Speedwell's lower adjustable kits along with an offset upper bushing to the extent of not more than an inch or so of negative camber (while "matching" the other side accordingly, BTW), then you are off to the frame straightener. Matter of fact, now that I think about, the frame straightener is where you should go with all regular stock bushings renewed. What the hell....if a job is worth doing it is worth doing right so to hell with a band-aid fix for this one. "Safe" as in proper... MORE

Bill, When you say 'Gold' do you mean yellow (Yellow Ochre in BL-ese) or brown? (Autmn Leaf) In 1973 the interior colours changed from black and Autumn Leaf to Navy and Yellow Ochre so you might have either. I'm not 100% sure of which body colours had which interiors as I've lent my Original Sprite and Midget book to a guy in work. The colours available over this period (and my recollection of which interior colour they came with) were: Black (Autumn Leaf or Black/Navy, never Yellow Ochre?) Glacier White (Aut. Leaf or Black/Navy) Bronze Yellow (Black/Navy) Harvest Gold... MORE

Need a little help. The '73 RWA Midget Mk III we got to fix up, was a dark/med blue ( repainted black) exterior with the Gold (Hazelnut/Autumn Leaf) interior. We want to keep the interior gold, Question is: What stock exterior colors were offered in 1973 with this gold interior, besides the Blue? My "Body service parts list" does not show the Gold in a G-AN4 ( Midget Mk. III ) Thank you, Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 22549... MORE

I came across rather a neat tracking device. It consists of a base with a very low table on it which slides sideways. When the car is pushed/driven across it, the 'toe' whether negative or positive, causes the the table to move sideways. It is attached to a pointer which tells you what the setting is. It is very easy to use and has eliminated prematurley worn tyres. I found best results were obtained if I made a non sliding dummy 'ramp' for want of a better description, identical in profile to the original, for the other wheel. In... MORE

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone out there had a spare ignition switch for a 76 midget with a locking steering wheel. If you would like it to go to a good home, please contact me and I will ensure that it is treated very well. Thanks, Matthew Pfeil "Matthew Pfeil" 22528... MORE

My 62 with stock smooth case is annoying to shift because it has too much resistance on the shift lever, catches slightly and is hard to shift into first in particular. Otherwise it operates well in every other respect, in fact it is not noisy in first at all. Could this perhaps be the detent plungers worn or the anti-rattle plunger worn? Or . . . ? Don "Don May" 22527... MORE