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RE: Guy Weller's post on this subject... My mechanic also handles it the same way and his arms are not that long....and either are mine and I have done it this way as well, back in the days when I had a garage at my disposal. Either way, they both work but I find working it from the outside easier. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16756... MORE


just curious, I'm spending the winter sanding and fixing everything wrong on the body. I'll be ready to paint it in the spring. My question is, if your midget could be any color, what color would it be? I am not leaning towards anything, I just wanted to get some opinions... thanks... "chuibuddy" 16750... MORE


John, another "no answer" to your cap sticker question, but I was interested to see the Oz chassis plate with a YHAN 1 marking - Terry Horler's book would suggest that they all had YHAN 5 codes. Regards David "David Jacobs" 16730... MORE


I wasn't meaning to get into serious debate about this gun thing as whatever view I may have personnally, it make no difference to the outside world! - Bit like , "Lets have a vote to ban meteorites" I think you are right, but it is by no means agreed yet. Police can, and do carry arms, but they are only issued in response to specific, identified situations, and not carried by UK police as part of their normal equipment. Guy "Guy Weller" 16685... MORE


You know, Dave Jacobs... That's what I thought, too. Figured an A or B box with 1st locked out, but the Metropolitan's box has a non-synchro first and is column mounted instead. Maybe it's an A or B box with 4th locked out through a higher diff? I am not knowing but supposedly, this is all standard Austin A 50 running gear according to Slightly Classics. The truck-like floor mounted handbrake on the extreme left side of the driver's compartment (LHD) was sort of unexpected, as well. Very cool little car! Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16680... MORE


No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye got Engine (1275), Transmission (Ribcase), Differntal (3.90), Rear brakes (dual piston), Disc brakes, wheels & tires, Driveline, steering column, and steering rack. The Bugeye body is different, sidecurtains, windshield, interior mirror, doors would inter-change with a 63 but the 69 would be different in those areas. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 16594... MORE


Thanks Bob, Thanks for the information. I was wondering if I would have to buy any additional parts to use the wire wheels off the 69 on my 63 using the front and rear wire hubs from 69 to do the change over. New hub change over kits are rather expensive. Don From: Robert Webb To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 5:36 PM Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Parts swap list No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye... MORE


Well, Jorge- Now I get the picture...so much for a hung up or sticking throttle cable I have never had an engine wherein I kept the emissions systems. These came (same as your's, most likely) on my PO'd '74 and I removed them entirely, replaced the oil and fuel caps with vented ones, cut the restrictors on the carbs, and vented the crankcase to atmosphere through K&N filters from valve cover and timing case flame arrestor. Of course, the air pump on the exhaust side went also along with the charcoal element cannister for fuel vapors and engine crankcase... MORE


I had a similar problem and the cable was hanging. Also, needed to replace the spring to pull the cable all the way back down. I was able to manually move the arm and after driving, it would "stick" again. livelovegolf2@... 16529... MORE


asuming the advance springs are anything like correct, something else must be restricting the motion of the points' rotating baseplate - the connecting wire maybe? With the cap off, can you move the baseplate by hand? Does yours still have vacuum advance as well? If so, that can be checked by the usual sucking on the pipe method! (I also have a 45D fitted to my 1380 A series - it came from Moss UK as a 'performance' item and as it is one of the later designs, it has the sliding points which are supposed to last better/wear... MORE


Wow! Is that a power steering box? "Jeremy Cogman" 16390... MORE


Must be worth a buck for the rack? Those tyres look like they mught have a few more miles in them too! Isn't Peter C. in NY, I'm sure he could use the core. "Jeremy Cogman" 16376... MORE


i am attempting to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my 1500 midget, dual line type from a 1979. After removing rubber boot,push rod, spring and retainer, next removed snap ring holding in the nylon bushing. My question is does anyone with experience with this tell me how to remove this nylon bushing/retainer so I can get the cylinder out of the bore?? The manual says to just depress piston a couple of times but this thing will not budge. Thought about just digging it out but fear damaging the bore. Any tricks would be helpful. Thank You Mike... MORE


Keith P-R.... Yes...keeping the front end well greased will pay off big time over time. I myself, am looking forward to Spring, which for me is only 3.5 months away!!:) Global warming has it's merits.... once you get past Feb. it's pretty much downhill from there though there have been a few years in the past 40 or so when this has not exactly been the case in Connecticut up here in the Northeast. But normally we have less of "the stuff" every year, My BE will stay warm and cozy under it's cover while the Golf/GTI does the... MORE


Keith, I would get a different car for the winter and store it! MG's are not winter weather vehicles, they become sleds. Try a Chevy front wheel for around a grand and dump it in the spring. It will be safer and you'll still have the MG...and your wife. JBlitz Rochester, NY. "Joe Bellizia" 16353... MORE


Does anyone know the weight of a midget body minus doors, hood, trunk lid and all suspension parts, etc? After looking at the design for the rollover by John Nelson I=92m a little worried about the =BD the weight on a vertical 4x4. It looks like there is too much risk of it splitting. No offense to John, but I=92ve been in the lumber business since age 14 and tend to build things way past their necessary design. Old Quandt family saying, =93If a little bit is good, lots is hell=92uve a good=94. Thanks Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 16349... MORE


"Suggest" would have been a better choice of words . . . I am aware you do not "have to" but while upgrading the ignition to solid state it is a good time to change to a 40,000 volt coil as long as it is the proper low resistance coil. Don "Don May" 16348... MORE


There are two parts I would like to add to reguarding the following. 1. There is a grease nipple on the steering rack, the opposite side of the steering column, that uses 90 weight oil in the rack. 2. Waxoyl - find out where the "normal rust spots" occur in your car and make sure that they are coated also. Good luck Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 16332... MORE


Great prices on Pertronix electronic ignitions at this site. I bought one for my 63 MG MK1 from them for almost half what Moss motors sells them. I like the Pertronix as it fits inside the distributor cap and you still have a stock look and it works great! Need to replace the old coil at the same time with a 40,000 volt one. http://www.coupers-cars.com/Pertronix%20Performance%20Products.htm Don "Don May" 16342... MORE


Yup, buy a grease gun and grease the front suspension (3 nipples each side). Grease it every 1000 miles or so, more often if you can be bothered. Grease it with wheel off the ground by the way. Buy a big tin of waxoyl and really coat the underside well after removing any loose material. Buy a haynes manual (check ebay, loads of cheap ones on there) and give the car a service, new plugs, points, air filters and an oil and filter change. List, am I correct in thinking the 1500 has electronic ignition. If not I'd fit... MORE


Well, I was hoping it wouldn't come to this, but the midget has to go. I will be moving soon and do not have the time or money to finish making it roadworthy. If anyone is interested, make me an offer. I have over $2,000.00 invested in parts alone. The particulars are as follows: 1978 MG MKIV Midget 1500, No rust! New custom (leopard print velvet!) upholstery on seats, door panels, shift boot, and dashcover. (Dash is cherry under the cover) Nice top and perfect glass! Has four nice BF Goodrich tires, new Delco alternator conversion, new front suspension... MORE


I have read several messages since I joined this group about a roll-over frame to make it easier to get at the bottom of the car. Where do I find information on building one? As soon as I get the rest of the front suspension off, today I hope, I am ready to tackle the body work. Thanks Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 16296... MORE


Ahhh, rats, Paul!! It IS tough being a human being, isn't it? Everbody thinks it's so easy, eh? :) Yeah, your're right! Cleaned the engine of any metallic debris as you drove, didn't you, while dumping the oil on the move! Very funny, man! I can say that now since it seems to be ok. Phew!! :) As I understand it, when oil level begins to drop below more than a bit off the max mark, the first place that begins to take a hit in this respect IS the upper end or rocker assembly. Maybe Gerard can chime... MORE


George Stronghilos writes: "After all this I may have to sell my Judson"! Well, George....maybe! But, I can only go by the experience of others along with my own and advise I was heavily into the Judson application and it's success. Without at least a water/ meth. delivery system, my experience (along with those of others) tells me it's an uphill battle on today's pump octanes. Racing fuel is a different matter. I even had an engine built for the Judson. I just installed my new Rivergate 1293 and it runs just beautifully. Very smooth and very strong even... MORE


Hey, Guys!! Bree was kidding in her response to my supercharger posts!! Really!! But...if I were to do this again, I would spring extra bucks for the Shorrocks rather than the less expensive Judson, most especially on the larger bore engines in view of the fact we know the Shorrocks has a "yellow" zone beginning at approx. 7,200 and a "redline" of 7,500. All you'd probably need then for a 6psi boost curve on the larger capacity engine would be a smaller blower pulley. I'd not be surprised if Jon Peck of BCSC hasn't had a few of these... MORE