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"I hope I never again experience the feeling...." Yeah, BTDT also. That's one of the ways I learned!! Only in my case, it was a stone wall which wiped out my gorgeous '56 MGA (I was like 17 at the time). Broke my beak on the steering wheel!! Man, I could have really used a "debeaker"!! All because I "locked 'em up" due to inexperience and ignorance!! I should have "tapped 'em" and steered around it. It's hard being a human being....maybe I'll "come back" as a......^ . . ^ =0 Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 12727... MORE


You can get stiffer front springs from any of the usual sources (Vic Brit, MO$$) some are lower than others. I've got very stiff 580# fronts from Winners Circle on mine and it rides with about 4 3/4" clearance at the oil pan. As far rear springs. I've got 1 1/2" lowering blocks on mine now and even with a flat drivers side spring I have 5 1/2" clearance at the differential. I wish I could find a set of offset rear springs but winner's Circle's source for these has dried up. Unless someone on the list knows of... MORE


Well, yes and no. (1.5 vs 1.75 as "the hot set-up"). A lot depends upon state of tune. But I am about to find out. My current engine is a 1293 to basically Cooper "S" spec., exept for compression ratio. I have a new HIF44 at my disposal, originally purchased to take the place of the Holley which comes standard with the Judson blower I may (or may not!!) install after engine "break-in". I am currently in contact with APT and am awaiting word on intake manifold and proper needle and spring for state of tune as I have... MORE


Hello Mike, I think there won't be ground wires in the harness. There MIGHT be local "pigtail" grounds from body of each light unit metal case to local ground - for example sheet metal of front fender - but I doubt even that. Usually the grounding is just by metal case bolted to the local bodywork, and just 2 wires in the harness. I really doubt that you have a simultaneous ground fault at all four corners. To prove this, all you have to do is to take a piece of any old electrical wire from battery ground terminal... MORE


Hey Tony. A1. I inherited the problem. A2. Yes. checked for dbl. filiment. A3. Yes. with ignition on. I need to find out where the flasher unit for turn signals lives. Then I can look into your testing suggestions. Question. The grounds for the turn signal lamps run from the wiring harness to the body right? Not seperate wires from the lamp. Have column pulled, quite a task. Thankyou for your help. Anyone know if I take a good long look at this switch will I be able to see a mechanical problem with it? Switch function is tight,... MORE


Maybe I missed it .. on the 25th is the vote? of is it Birthday time on the 25th? The magic, but unfair for sure, 60th? How does it work..can still fly like fedex or cargo or..charter? did some barrel flying (50gal fuel drums). in a 210 out of Galena AK to Ruby. Those with better tickets ( comm rating and better) were flying for BLM -fire jumpers, dropping sand bags on the yukon at bend points and flying more cargo in larger a/c's ..and making mega bucks and seemed to be having fun.. great country..tad cold in the... MORE


I went for harder but shorter springs on my '63. Front ride height is unchanged but I no longer leave bits of my LCB everywhere. "Jeremy Cogman" 12695... MORE


Mike, If your flasher was good, the bulb would turn on but not flash. Cahnces are the contact is misaligned or broken in the switch. The switch is comprised of a stiff (spring) wire and a rivot. Sometimes as the switch get a little sloppy, the wire doesn't hit the rivot or the contact is corroded. Sometimes it's just broken off. You can sometimes correct the problem with cleaning and adjustment, but you won't know until you remove it. Getting the cowl off does require dropping the column. make sure you make note of the position and location oof... MORE


Hello again Bill, It's so long since had a running "points" vehicle that I had forgotten whether it's divide or multiply 8-cyl reading. So I went down to the household "nerve center" to check. I have a Micronta tach/dwell meter (possibly of Radio Shack origin) COMPLETE WITH INSTRUCTION MANUAL, would you believe? Anyway, answer is multiply 8-cyl reading by 2. With regard to engine running versus being cranked, my view is this check is valid ONLY if the engine is running at a good stable idle - specs should say at what RPM you should do the check -... MORE


Mike, Don't pull the steering column yet! Some dumb questions & a couple of suggestions: Q1. Has the problem suddenly occurred, or did you "inherit" it? Q2. I think the front side/turn lamps should have dual-filament bulbs - have you checked? Q3. Did you turn on the ignition to check turn signals? Suggestions: 1. Go for the easy stuff first by elimination. Yes, there are 2 separate flasher units, and I believe they are different types. Try substituting a known good flasher unit for the existing turn-signal one. I don't know if you have a "moulded" connector for the... MORE


My problem is concerning the directional signals. Car is '79 1500 with the multi switch, directionals, horn,highbeam and head lamp dip switch. Signals do not work, lights on dash do not light. (turn signal lights) Bulbs are ok, all other functions on the switch work fine. Hazard flashers work,all other lights work. Fuses are all fine My question is how to go about finding problem. Notice in schem. that the car seems to have a flasher for both the signals and hazards. If flasher was bad would lights not light either? Wanted to try other options before looking at... MORE


I have my Monza exhaust sitting in a box in my garage ready for install. One thing I have to say is that I am just a little disappointed... My first exposure to the Monza Exhaust was seeing the install instructions for that of a Spitfire.. the spitfire Monza exhaust has a pre-muffler in front, then a "Y", then two dual straight mufflers which each have double-chrome tips on them. At first, I was thinking of getting the Spitfire exhaust and putting it on my Midget, but the gas tank is in the wrong place... and there is not... MORE


So what do you guys call the bevelled peg that holds the king pin locked to the fulcrum pin and the cranks of bicycles on their shafts until about 25 years ago. "Jeremy Cogman" 12461... MORE


Probably the "bevelled peg that holds the king pin locked to the fulcrum pin"...'-) I've only referred to it as a cotter pin, as that's how it's listed in the shop manuals, but I always have to add "bevelled peg that holds the king pin locked to the fulcrum pin" because I know everything usually thinks of a cotter pin as a split pin. Gerard "gerardchateau" 12463... MORE


Jeremy, And I'm sure when I use the correct term "cotter pin" to describe the peg that hold the king pin fulcrum pin in place, no one (outside the UK) knows what I'm talking about either. Thanks for reminding me that you use the term split pin. Gerard "gerardchateau" 12448... MORE


Chris, Not sure about torque. I ususally assemble them with nothing attached and feel the rotation of the A-arm making them just tight enough that they don't bind. Use a Nylock or cotter pin in the bolt (some came drilled already with a castle nut). Gerard "gerardchateau" 12423... MORE


hi, I'm re-assembling my front suspension. How tight should the fulcrum bolts (bottom link) be tightened? Any ideas about torque? Regards Chris Howes '58 Frogeye "howes" 12421... MORE


There is a little part that goes on the coil posts that allows you to put a female spade connector onto the coil rather than cutting the harness and adding on a loop connector. I have been to O'Reilly's, Auto Bone, even Fanny, Flo and Jackie at PepGirls don't have them. I went to a local indy guy as well as the place in Ft. Worth where I buy my Brit car parts from. Nothing, nowhere, not even M@$$ or V.B. lists them. Does anyone know what I am talking about and where I could get about 6-8 of... MORE


Fond memories .... I used to get a nice drip on my right ankle (rhd car) when driving in the rain and never got rid of it. It filled my shoe and footwell but what the heck! - I just used a rubber mat and folded that over my ankle when it rained. However, what prompted the re-shelling of the Sprite 1275 was after the bonnet flew open whilst driving along and wrapped round the canvas. It also bent the scuttle/decker (call it what you want) panel under the front screen. The next time it rained I was sat... MORE


Ya' know, I almost forgot (actually, I did forget but......I rememberd!) You said your shocks were ok regarding the ride you were getting. OK, but, when they no longer are or should they become suspect, do not replace with any other rebuilt except those "correctly" rebuilt by Peter C. of: nosimport@... aka, World Wide Imports Forget Apple and all the other usual suspects - Peter C. does the overhauls correctly and doesn't spare the bucks or time to do it "right". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 12410... MORE


Welcome aboard!! :) First thing you want to do is get a maintenance manual for your car and read through it just to get familiar. www.aptfast.com www.MiniMania.com www.VictoriaBritish.com 1. Brakes - These are not "power" items and quite frankly, require a great deal of pedal effort (as compared to current vehicles) however, when you DO really put your foot in it, it should definitely STOP quickly. If it does not, then new pads for the front and linings for the rear may definitely be in order. The brake lines are rubber and wear out. Steel lines are available for... MORE


Bruce, You probably had all your questions answered by now, but as I didn't follow this thread, I'll igve you my answers, just in case. 1. brakes should be better that you describe. A hard pedal with poor braking usually means swollen flexible lines. Replace all three hoes for starters. You might also have poor pads or worn rotors. Try Axxis brand organic pads/shoes. Kevlar brake pads are also supposed to be very good, but I understand they are expensive. Get the right grade for street use. 2 and 3 or normal. 4. Investigate for leaking shocks and worn... MORE


Jorge, Thanks for the info. Did you do anything to your brakes...stainless steel hoses, different brake pads...? Any plans on what do for for handling? different shocks...? What's your opinion on lowering the car? Bruce "redrider417" 12345... MORE


As I said in an earlier post, just bought a '74 Midget last week. Since I have nothing to compare it to, hope I can get some answers from this list. (1) How good should the brakes be? I can stop the car, but it takes effort and time. The pedal isn't spongy, and it doesn't rise up after pumping a few times, but the brakes just aren't that great. Normal? (2) 1st gear -seems to be noisy. Doesn't pop out, no crunching, just noisy. Normal? Do all gears have synchromesh? (3) When accelerating there's a bit of a... MORE


Bill, Too far for you and not exactly what you're looking for, but if anyone else is looking, I have a '68 Sprite that is a nut and bolt restoration I've been working on since around '97. This car was completely rust free and I stripped it to bare metal inside and out and painted it with the best catalyzed paints. Too many new parts to list but the car is currently a rolling chassis with a freshly built 1275 with all new timing components and a Kent MD266, new pistons, etc. The drivetrain is ready to be dropped... MORE