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Charlie It's a new valve, spring and washer but it does have about 1000 miles on it. Maybe it was a cheep after market and never was any good. Doug 77 Michigan Doug Pletcher 12266... MORE


Positive side of the coil goes to the distributor. (the distributor being a switched ground connection) HTH G "Grant Bowyer" 12139... MORE


Asking the stupid questions first.. fuses check ok? connections not green or are they clean.. OK now on to more less stupid points.. (the stupid would be from my end..not yours..) Horn problems usually revolve around the bullet/spring that makes the connection to the ring.. mine broke/melted.. I just re-routed the wires to a switch on the dash.. for me it was easy, heater removed so I had two spare slots on the dash. wipers.. have 1.8 part spridets..both 71's so not sure if the wipers are same.. my driver is a 74... could check to make sure tomorrow,... MORE


Jeremy Lots of ghost stories about slave problems. I was trying to figure out how the slave could be leaking. Overthrow is one idea! However the final problem was traced to a split pipe which was running down the inside of the pipe to the slave and collecting on the bottom of the slave LOOKING like it WAS the slave !! It wasn't so I had a new pipe made up, cleaned everything and bleed the system which was a nightmare. As you say the nipple is so tight up against the chassis so I had the starter out,... MORE


I am hooking up the coil on a 65 POSITIVE ground Sprite. Does the positive or negative side of the coil go to the dist.??? Brad Fornal 12135... MORE


Mike What do you mean by slave overthrow, the piston has gone too far and won't come back? Yes one of the things I hate about the Toyota conversion ( I have one too) is the slave bolted on from inside. I've wondered about changing that but the clearance with the chassis leg is so tight. Next time I've got it out I might experiment with some countersunk machine screws from outside. Hope it's gone well, looking forward to hearing of your success. Jeremy "Jeremy Cogman" 12124... MORE


Peter C (I think) at Worldwide Autos (I think) is spoken very highly of. Read his peice on Gerards site and he really does go to town on the rebuild. Were it me I'd dig deep and get some of his. I've wasted so much time / money on 'repainted' shocks. "Jeremy Cogman" 12123... MORE


HI folks would like some thoughts on this. It is my ubderstanding that the oil pressure relief valve will operate under excessive oil pressure and allow some bypass to keep oil pressure in check. Is that correct. With that in mind with starting oil pressure at 60 lbs and after warm up oil pressure is 45lbs if relief spring pressure is increased than startup pressure should be higher but after warm up pressure should still be 45lbs because the valve is now closed. Does that makes sense. Well I decieded to experiment I shimmed the relief valve and increased... MORE


Hello all my soft top friends: I'm very much enjoying the great driving weather that has finally arrived in southern Ontario. But I have come to the conclusion that I MUST do something with my front suspension. Every bump/pot hole causes the front end to jump around and clunk audibly (at least to my ears). I've tried topping the shocks up, but they leak it out quickly. It's time to replace or rebuild. Whom in Ontario is good at rebuilding (that will last more than a year or two) at a reasonable rate (I'm also between career successes at... MORE


Well, as the originator of all this, I think Brent has it exactly! Back to the starting point ... use the combination of filter to do the filtering and magnetic sump plug to collect the metal debris - and also to act as a tell-tale for inspection. The system works fine, and has worked on these engines for the last 50 years. I guess one could fit an extra drain at the front end of the sump for a second magnet but it really is not worth it. Guy "Guy Weller" 12013... MORE


Amen to this. I used one of the adapters and it put the spin on so close to the chassis rail that it was a real pain. Get the filter unit from a car with spin on to start as David says. Moss / VB etc should sell these or get a secondhand one. They are ten a penny in the UK as every dead Metro / Mini has one. "Jeremy Cogman" 11968... MORE


Ballast resistors areall about starting. The coil will be a 6 or 9 volt unit and in normal running the ballast resistor is in series with the coil so that the correct voltage is across the coil (the meaty resitor taking the rest of it and dissipating the energy as heat), However when starting the resistor is taken out of the circuit so the coil gets the full 12 volts giving a bigger spark and a better start. If the 6/9 volt coil is used without ballast all the time it will not last long. Jeremy "Jeremy Cogman" 11967... MORE


Mike... IMHO, the best thing to do here is to get in touch with the manufacturers of the ignition system you plan to use and ask them for THEIR recommendations for THEIR specific applications. Most of them also sell "matching" coils for "their" systems. Fr'instance, I use a PerTronix coil with my PerTronix Electronic distributor module. Crane has "matching" coils as well. My guess would be in each case, the elimination of the ballast resistor once you replace the points with an after- market electronic set-up. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 11970... MORE


This is what I know so far. Seems the correct wires are going to the correct terminals on the coil. Note: This is according to Haynes wiring diagram. About the 3 wires into one to dist. They have a wire running to the dist from EACH coil terminal. One does route through the resistor but eventually ends up at dist. I thought only the - neg from the coil should go to the dist? Looking at diagrams from other cars with the contact breaker dist that's the way it is. Coil grounded, dist grounded and neg lead from coil... MORE


What is the ballast resister for? Can i do without it? Mine was there but not hooked to anything when i got it. I had to replace the coil once and i remember the box saib resister type only, but it went on and has worked ok.?? "stanley hill" 11959... MORE


I did the same, but kept the original coil and used a Crane XR700. Worked great. Gerard "gerardchateau" 11953... MORE


Mike, I'm leery of the 3 wires being hooked together. Doesn't sound right. You only need the one wire to the coil. If you think you have a ballast type coil, I don't think you'd need the one inline, if that's what it is. I'd check for shorst in the distributor also. Sometimes the grommet that isolate the contact from gound is missing or not installed properly, causing a short. Gerard "gerardchateau" 11952... MORE


What you describe sounds like a lean condition. It could be loose shaft or it could be mixture. Did you spray both carbs? Most of the wear occurs at the end opposite the throttle linkage. and you can ususally observe the looseness by rotating the shaft (easier to do off the car) Gerard "gerardchateau" 11949... MORE


Jay This sounds like a good way to go. Is the installation difficult? If you use either the Bosch blue or Petronix coils what do you do to bypass the resisstor? So if I eliminate the points, condenser, coil and resistor from the old set up am I safe to install this new set up? I don't want to burn it out too. Just trying to cover all bases. Thanks Mike kna331@... 11955... MORE


Gerard The setup in the car seems to look like original, all except the dizzy. The coil has what seems to be a ballast type bit mounted to the coil strap right above the coil. The 2 wired that go to this are original coming from the wiring harness. There is also mounted at the same location a small resistor?? Looks like an external condenser. The feed from this attaches to the (-) neg. terminal of the coil. One other thing, in wiring diagram the orig. electronic setup had three wires going to the distributor. On mine the 3... MORE


Mike Mine is also a 1500 with an old 25D distributor. I felt it was worth putting in a Ignitor module, replacing the coil with a Bosch Blue and bypassing the ballast resistor. For me this was a worthwhile solution. $57 for the Pertronix and $30 for the Bosch Blue. And the only point of failure left is the distributor gear. Your mileage may vary. Jay Shaffer 11951... MORE


No problem using an earlier distrubutor except the vacuum advance unit won't be correct as the 1500 used vacuum retard. The curve may not be correct either. The Lucas Opus electronic distributors were notorious for dying (if that's what was on there before). You should also have a ballast resistor on the coil. Gerard "gerardchateau" 11940... MORE


Yes indeed but shocks are heavy items so probably only worth doing a bulk sea import. Hmmmmmm! "Jeremy Cogman" 11926... MORE


Mike, It seems to me that the thin wire is acting as a fuse for some other problem - as Guy Weller suggests, possibly a short on the primary side of the coil, or possibly you have somehow got the 12V+ (or +) end of the coil primary connected to the contact-breaker instead of the "low" or CB (or -) end of the coil primary. ON NO ACCOUNT even think of putting in a bigger-gauge wire. I'm assuming you still have an original contact-breaker ignition system, and that it hasn't been converted to some kind of breaker-less electronic system... MORE


Sounds like you have an internal short on the coil. Guy "Guy Weller" 11923... MORE