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Easy peasy lemon squeezy (don't ask!) An hour absolute max, more like ten minutes. Undo carb linkage clamp stick head in drivers footwell and unhook cable nipple from gas pedal arm withdraw cable assembly from engine bay lubricate new cable inner stick new nipple through hole in bulkhead into footwell locate nipple in arm seat cable outer in socket on bulkhead thread other end of inner through hole in heat shield locate outer in socket in heat shield pass inner though clamp on carb linkage pull tight and adjust so there is a tiny bit of slack to be... MORE
Driving around with new front shocks and rear leaf springs sure makes a difference. The front end rebuild makes the car quite a bit snappier to turn and the ride is a bit stiffer. The car now sits level instead of the rear end sagging down. This weekend the Mrs. and I plan to take it around the city and just have fun. Rick 1973 Midget Las Vegas, Nevada acostahr@... "Hugh Acosta" 10526... MORE
Margaret Reply on behalf of Elaine (wife) ...'cos she can't get to the keyboard! When I fell in love with Elaine she was driving a Mk4 Midget (yellow) as a daily driver, and had been for some three years. At that time her most recent repair was a Head Gasket change ! She also did her own servicing. I thing she let me fix her broken throttle return spring as a sop to my ego! That was 8 years ago, now she co-drive the Frog on tours, rallies and fast cross country blasts. No quarter given or asked! Mike... MORE
My son is stationed at Sembach, Germany and called to say he is thinking about buying a 25 year old mini in really good condition. (The little BAS&%#$). Does anyone know a good shipper and/or approx cost to ship one to the states? I know this has been discussed quite a bit before, but my son is really tempting me knowing how much I want one. PS Today I finally get to drive my Midget after completing the front end rebuild!!!!!! Rick 1973 Midget Las Vegas, Nevada acostahr@... "Hugh Acosta" 10411... MORE
Amps X volts = Watts so if you have 8 amps available at the headlights, and IF you also have a full 12 volts, then the wiring has the capacity to supply a 96 wattage bulb. That's theory, in practice I guess you don't have 12 volts and there will be losses in the system. Plus of course it takes a lot of power to keep the smoke inside the wires. Guy "Guy Weller" 10285... MORE
Hello list Change of topic, headlamps! Anybody got any spec on the amps feed to the headlamps? We know they're crap even with H4's. However I wanted to check if they were getting enough feed, amp meter at the feed with engine running showed 8amps! Direct feed from the battery went up to 12amps..........so what's it meant to be? Haynes doesn't show a rating, just bulb watts 60/50 etc Hope to hear from you electrical wizards Cheers ps sorry about previous blank e-mail, nerves I guess :-) Mike M. North London mike643mnp@... 10284... MORE
Yup - and I've followed a few on the track too so I know exactly what you mean... Short, very stiff springs and a light car - just part of the 'character' of the vehicle. 'Hoppy' - Frogeye... yuk yuk... Anyone coming to Cadwell tomorrow? J "jamesbilsland" 10263... MORE
Well then, nothing left to do but have your arms shortened...'-) -g "gerardchateau" 10243... MORE
I don't mean hard I mean hoppy, have you ever driven a 1/4 spring car on rough roads James? "Jeremy Cogman" 10254... MORE
Bill, Your car has a collapsable steering column. There is a 3 bolt plate that locates it in the footwell bulkhead. You can't move the steering wheel up without re-engineering that. Also, that would put your column througn the top of your dash even if you could move it up. As far as shortening... same problem with colum switches. Why not just get a smaller steering wheel... or an MGB if you want more room? Gerard "gerardchateau" 10201... MORE
G end skittish< Sounds like standard 1/4 elliptic handling to me... ;oP "jamesbilsland" 10175... MORE
David, I find anything more than 25psi increases understeer unacceptably on tarmac, and can make the rear end skittish on gravel roads. It appears that my preference, therefore, is for a car with a comfortable ride and predictable handling, which isnt unduly 'upset' by potholes and other nasties during spirited driving. I'm sure that if most of my driving was on long, straight freeways I might find 30psi more suitable. Of course, if most of my driving was on long, straight freeways I'd probably die of boredom, but that's hardly relevant to the argument. Out of curiosity, what does... MORE
I havr a haynes manule but it only tells how to fill with shocks removed "stanley hill" 10167... MORE
Boy! I could not do this on the roads around here! Some of them are pretty good but the secondaries sure take a beating with the seasonal weather changes we get here and salting roads in the winter makes it even worse, of course. As far as speed goes - just "too expensive" on the roads around here, considering the relatively primitive Sprite suspension combined with the normal roadway surface and amount of traffic we have in my vicinity. Oh, well, different strokes for different folks based on individual priorities and tastes....that's what democracy is all about!! Cap'n. Bob... MORE
Ahhhh. So that's what's going on with the rubber bumper types in terms of "understeer - oversteer", Jamesbilsland! Ah, hah. Thus, varying the tire pressures may be just fine for relatively "low speed adjustments" considering normally used driving speeds on "the street" with the proviso that at "the limit" you'll get into "roll oversteer" sooner if you vary the tire pressures to make up for initial understeer for normal street driving speeds. Do I have this right, Jim, in terms of "understanding"? The REAL problem is high vertical CG caused by "Federalized ride height" and the correct solution is... MORE
"How and where do I check/fill shocks?" Well, Stanley Hill, I am going to leave this to those who still have and run lever shocks. I have not used them for years so we'll let a lister with current use and knowledge answer this one. (Should the vehicle be raised, or not, etc.) I know they are filled to the top of their reservoirs with a special shock oil which is formulated with "anti-foaming" and "seal-sweller" additives. This oil is available from Moss, Victoria British and the other usual suspects. I used to know guys who mixed this oil... MORE
Sure, Stanley Hill- You can counter understeer (or oversteer) to some extent by varying the stock ratio between front and rear tire pressures. The stock Spridget normally runs 2-4 lbs. more pressure in the rear than it does at the front. To counter understeer, we will raise the front pressures, or lower the rear. We will bring the ratio between the two to "even" and probably end up with a little more in the front than in the rear. Which to do. Well, if the back end ride is a little choppy, we'd take 2 pounds out of the... MORE
my 76 midget has a lot of under steer in my opinion.All but impossible to bring rear around.It has 145 tires and front but no rear sway bar. Appears to be stock set up.I know that stiffening up the rear will help some, any other thoughts?? "stanley hill" 10119... MORE
How and where am i supposed to check/fill my shocks? 1976 mg midget "stanley hill" 10118... MORE
Paul- Rear anti-roll bar? Uh-oh! This page; http://www.mgparts.co.nz/performance2.html has a good explanation of the dynamics of a live-axle rear, independant front setup, take special notice of the paragraph which reads "final consideration lies in the independent front/live rear axle combination of MG's from the TD through to the MGB & C. As the solid rear axle keeps the back wheels at a fixed attitude to the road (basically vertical) then reduced body roll gives no increase in grip at the rear - all the gain is at the front. A rear anti-rollbar therefore has the following effect: weight transfer... MORE
Paul- Be guided by the knowledge in Grant's post regarding the rear rollbar but "prove" it in a parking lot on a dry AND rainy day to your satisfaction. The rear bar "brings back" some of the "oversteer" removed by the "heavy" front bar so sudden "breakaway" can definitely occur. Tire, tread, compound and air pressure all bear on how "sudden" and at what point in "G" force this will occur. Try it with and without the rear bar and decide for yourself. Locating the back axle (side to side) with a Panhard set-up does seem like the best... MORE
Ok, Paul, here goes! As your's is a street machine, get new bushings to begin with, of course. Poly and Nylatron will both work and they will stiffen things up but, the ride will become much harsher with these and the poly will squeak and grind in time, no matter what grease you initially use; eventually, the lubrication will "go" (BTDT). Now, if you can live with these sounds, fine. I could not and went back to stock rubber. Handling in all respects didn't suffer much, but ride was much better and it bought the "peace and quiet" back!... MORE
Jason, Yes. That is an inspection cover. If you can remove all the nuts and slip the cover off, this will be a fairly easy job. sometimes these are put on without any sealant and thgasket is very thin. Drain the oil first, clean both surfaces well and reinstall with a new gasket and I would use Hylomar to ease removal of it in the future. There are two spring that operate on two plungers for you lockouts. Don't forget to reinstall them before you bolt things down again. They won't fall out, but you'll probably want to remove... MORE
Something tells me Cap'n Bob grew up on a steady diet of American V8 Lard-mobiles. ;-) Mike- most 175's will fit (but only just) but they'll ruin the delicate poise and handling of your '63. Total grip during cornering will be better, but you'll lose the ability to balance the car on the throttle- your wee 1098 engine just hasnt enough power to make full use of 175's. It's an old argument. Your average American equates 'handling' with 'grip', IE the car which generates the most cornering G's has the best handling and is safest. Which is, of course,... MORE
Ok, guys!! "Down", guys, "down". :) I take it all back, ok?! I keep thinking 1275 engines and wider stock wheels than what this lister probably has on his 1098 equipped Spridget. You are correct! Go with the normal 78 or 80 aspect ratios for the smaller bores and "leaner" wheels. Growler is absolutely right. "Tossability" will go to hell with 175/70's on the "leaner" wheels and will un-necessarily "drag" the smaller engine as well. Correctomundo. The car will lose it's "fun" handling quotient. I apologize for my erroneous initial recommendation (I should have had more coffee before attempting... MORE
