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My restored 1970 Midget came with a roll bar which I wish to retain for safety. However when I have the seat back in what to me is the most comfortable position my head seems uncomfortably close to the bar making me fearful of the consequences of a rear end shunt. Does anyone know of the source of a suitable neat padded cover for the tubing of a roll bar? Obviously I could try making something myself but if there is a good looking commercial product this is likely to look more elegant than my efforts. "peter.balcombe" 6622... MORE
My Spridget is still stock (levers) in the rear....IMHO, the rear suspension isn't as critical in this regard (but I do intend to convert to tube shocks on rear this winter)....I saw a site (don't remember where) that implied that conversion of rear was fairly simple, seemed like all you had to do (I think) was invert the original shock connect plate on the leaf spring (and surprisingly, listed the same shocks I used for front...I guess because they're short). BTW, there are lots of pre-made conversion kits for this pupose (from Wheelwright, Frontline, Peter May, etc.). Some of... MORE
Rich, Oil pressure good - little oil in rocker area is a good thing; indicates nice tight rocker set-up. Two have nothing to do with each other anyway so no worries here. Have used Ignitor on 1098 and 1275's for years. Had problem with first installation regarding a too short wire which rubbed on the distributor plate (on which the Ignitor was mounted) and chaffed through to "short" on the plate. Cut back plate to give more clearance and have not had a problem since (many years of service). Early PerTronix units had their problems with reliability. Have not... MORE
Reply to renaultdude Definitely something for me to do on my Midget. Question is now, what do you have on the rear end? I would like to see some pics (details) and descriptions on how to fit the rear with tube shocks Rick Las Vegas, Nevada acostahr@... "Hugh Acosta" 6611... MORE
Hi Guys, Hope you're all doing fine out there in Spridget world...have a Great Christmas & New Year. Since I last wrote, the 'madness' has subsided; I didn't buy a MG Metro Turbo and have given up the idea of a spridget turbo, it seems quite complex, and other more worthy folk have done it and been there already. So, not content with a slow moving Frogeye restoration (2 1/2 years so far...) and not having mush cash to hand, a mild madness returned & I blew part of the restoration fund on a cheap, scruffy but structurally sound... MORE
Hello All: Here's my version of a low cost tube shock conversion for Spridgets (there's also a rubber-to-chrome bumper conversion outlined). The shock convert concept is similiar to the Winners Circle conversion, retaining the lever arms as upper links (except my setup mounts the shocks behind the lower A arm). The nicest setup I've seen is the Peter May conversion, but this is fairly big $$. Some of you who are restorers may wish to retain the original lever shocks.....very understandable, of course (but from personal experience, I'd buy new lever shocks rather than re-builds). In any event, if... MORE
Update: Picked up my head today and it was in much worse shape than I thought. All the evidence points to the machine shop that I had "recondition" it last year this time, didn't do what was required. Universal Automotive Machine Shop, which repaired my head today, had to replace all eight valve guides as three were cracked and all of them were worn out. The guides were supposed to have been replaced last year, but apparently were not. Well they are this time as Universal showed me before putting the valve springs on. As soon as my new... MORE
Hi Stephen This is one of those 'how long is a piece of string' type questions I'm afraid... How much your car will weight depends on how much it weighed before you took all the weight off (obviously) but a Halfords 'C' car with a similar spec to yours would weigh about 650kgs (1450lbs). If you're likely to be in Kent at all with your car (testing at Lydden maybe?) you are welcome to put it on my corner weight scales... Handling? Again depends what it did before. You have just removed a substantial amount of weight off the... MORE
Pete, You are pretty close on the engine, My 1500 weighs about 350, the Tranny weighs about 100, The differential along with the axle tubes weighs about 75 or so. The axles weigh about 5 - 7 each. The wire wheels w/o tires on them about 15 each, figure about 5 pounds each for the starter, alternator etc. Given the quantities you are quoting, I would say that you will be pretty close to a 1/2 ton. Since the truck is under rated at the fatory, you should be OK just be sure to pack as much stuff in... MORE
Friend of mine's brother in the Philly area has this MGB for sale. I have no interest and only know what he wrote below...caveat emptor. Sound a little high but he may be negotiable. I though someone on the list might be interested. Robert Houston Spridget and TR4 1978 MG B Garage Queen Serial Number GHN5UJ460650G This car has been driven less than a thousand miles a year for the past five years. It has no rust and has been garage kept under a padded cover since refurbishing in 1995. There are 74,200 miles on the odometer but less... MORE
Dan, I had to cut a camphor in the Spit disks to clear my TR ends too. I heard that the later Midget rack used a smaller TR end, and was tempting updating that too... but decided otherwise. So how do you keep from doing a front wheel stand every time hit the brakes hard? -Drew "drewminator2" 6462... MORE
Some time back I reported this horrible noise from the trans on over-run when hot. I rebuilt the prop shaft,fitted a recon diff (& rebuilt the rear suspension),still no joy. So I popped the engine & split the gearbox.As I did so,this mangled setscrew fell out from inside the bellhousing. Seems the noise was this rattling round beating up the clutch cover etc.It came from the backplate which explains the bad oil leak I've had.Also the sticky oil in the housing held the setsrew until it warmed up.Finally I guess the crank movement on lift off caused the ring... MORE
Well you're right Gerard! I have about a half inch space between the spring the wheel rubber when the car is up on jacks... but I don't think that will be enough when I'm sliding around a corner, even with the 50 series Euro TAs. My real problem is with the SWA fender... I still haven't had the guts/nerve to cut them off and add the RWA flares yet. I guess I'll get a little more nerve as this project gets a little closer to getting on the road, and that's getting closer every day too. But what I'm... MORE
Thanks Brent. I figured out what the deal is with mine. Someone cut the original ones in half and welded in a 4" strap to extend the length. The job was so clean that I didn't notice at first. That explains why the fit seemed right. I got the rear suspension all assembled today and the back now rides high enough that I can put ANY tires I want on the back... also be good offroad...'-) Gerard "gerardchateau" 6439... MORE
Dan and Drew, This is not the case. I have (had) a pair of offset springs on my vintage race Bugeye. I don't think they are available anymore as I was looking for some without success when one of mine cracked. I think Winner's Circle had them at one time, but I think your best bet is to go to a spring shop and have them made to your spec. I found a couple places in the east bay that would do it and it wasn't that expensive. You can get a pattern off mine if you want. I... MORE
Tim, Offset springs have an inward offset on both ends where they mount to the car. The inward offset allows to go mount wheels that have a larger/deeper inner offset. Basically it just moves the spring and inch or two inward and allows you to fit wider wheels and tires. -Drew "drewminator2" 6416... MORE
Also look at the wire coming form the coil to the dissy. Make sure the insulation is intact as it passes into the dizzy. A momentary grounding at this point will cause the symptoms you describe. Doug 77 "Doug Pletcher" 6422... MORE
Bob, Been having a similar experience and I have been tracking it, but haven't found out why yet. My ignition gets intermittent and the tach starts to jump around at same time (zero - Pegged - you name it). However, I do have a question to add to this? According to my electrical prints - for my 76 1500 up to end of 77, power to the coil goes through the tach. the ignition switch power lead (+) (white) goes to the tach, From the tach to the coil white. After 77, power (+) goes from ign switch to... MORE
Anyone know where I can find a set of new/used 1/4 elliptical offset springs for my 62MKII Bug-eye? Also how much do they normally offset inwards? Thanks, -Drew "She's a witch!!... She turned me into a newt!!"... but then I got better. "drewminator2" 6410... MORE
Group I copied this from another group. Thought some may be interested. Dougp 77 I have lots of good used parts that I would love to clean out of my garage. Here are just a few: -(S springs): Offset rear springs for 1/4 eliptic spridgets- $200 -1 1/4" Comptune carbs with manifold- $400 -Fully ported and polished 948 head with large (chevy type) valve springs and Titanium keepers. Believed to have been done by Huffacker- $900 -Full roller rockers for 948- $300 -948 unmodified heads- $100ea -8qt Peterson Drysump tank- $200 -+40 Venolia Pistons and rings for a 948... MORE
Rick, This seems to have been going on longer than I can remember so apologies if I've said this before.. Have you checked your oil pressure? When I re-built my 1275 (nothing too special on it, uprated cam, cooper pistons and rods etc.) it p*ssed oil all over the place. First I thought it was the sum gasket so replaced it about 4 times, then it was coming out of the little gearbox bell housing breather hole so I pulled the engine, stripped it down and removed the rear engine plate, re-sealed the oil pump cover thing etc. etc.... MORE
On some cars the chassis number is chalked on the 'rear seat'. Still visible on mine after 39 years. "Jeremy Cogman" 6381... MORE
According to Horler, the chassis number on the shock mount was introduced in 1967- Horler is, apparently, somewhat incorrect here since Dan's '64 has the chassis number there. My '61 has only the usual chassis number plates- right hand door pillar and left 'chassis' rail in the engine commpartment. The chassis number is not stamped directly onto the body anywhere. (The body has been 'dipped' to remove all paint and underseal, so I'm 100% certain the number isnt there...) HTH G "Grant Bowyer" 6368... MORE
Hi Stephen The holes are threaded and should be in the underside of the end of the two chassis legs in front if the suspension cross member. I have the same problem on my 66 Sprite, I think mine may have been repaired and since the car was not fitted with an Anti roll bar (sway bar) the repairer did not bother to put them in. Since the Anti roll bar was an option (not standard equipment) there may not have been holes in it originally. New repair sections which are intended to replace the chassis leg forward of... MORE
Michael; WOF? You in NZ then? Or do other countries have WOFs too? (Oz?) to answer your questions- 1- Significant oil leaks is anything which leaves a puddle more than a foot wide overnight. They all leak, its the way they are, and leaks are the least of your worries. 2- Dont worry about it. Tie rod ends and wheel bearings can be changed in a matter of hours, and cost only a couple of hundred dollars. More important is wear in the kingpins- wobble the wheel as if testing for wheel bearings, but look for movement between the... MORE
