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Let's keep the subject line vaguely accurate, with the increased banter levels on this list, the subject line becomes more important... Please, no. Once you have good levers, the furthest you should go is 30wt motorcycle fork oil (unless this is for the racetrack where the stp story gets good runtime (not from me though)). Did you get up-rated valves from Peter? If you want a firmer ride, re-valving is the *right* way to do it, not thickening the oil. If you use stp on the road, you'll likely blow out the shocks.... I doubt Peter wouldcover that under... MORE
Tom, You need to remove the "spirolox" retaining ring/clip. Put the MC in a padded vise with the spring pointing up, compress the spring down and you will be able to see the "spirolox" and the groove it sits in. It's a wiggle the thing off deal. Once thats done you can remove the spring and next you have an internal circlip to deal with before you can remove the main piston, after that another internal circlip to get the smaller piston out. Good Luck. Biff Jones Pasadena, MD '59 Bugeye, "Kermit' '62 Sprite, 'Ole Gray' '71 Midget, 'Freebie'... MORE
List: I started to help y friend rebuild his '69 Sprite brake m/c and we got stuck early. How do I get past the spring at the front of the cylinder to unlock the the internal parts? Thanks in advance, Tom Speed '62 Sprite (parts) '66 Midget (parts) '76 Midget (severely damaged awaiting chassis transplant) '75 Midget (transplant donor) '77 Midget (additional parts donor) "Thomas Speed" 3489... MORE
Bob There is a consensus amongst some (spesh Growler) that soft springs/stiff dampers is the way to go, sometimes referred to as a Lotus style setup. Have used this in Westfields in the past and it does seem good. It's your money/choice! Well done a whole post without mentioning the Z name! AW "Andrew Worley @ Mi-King" 3464... MORE
Hey, AW- You have confirmed exactly what I have heard from others in the past and this is especially important in my case, as I am running tube shocks (GasAdjust GR-2's) all around on 5.5" Westerns (Minilite wannabes) equipped with 175/70 Comp T/A's along with a 3/4 front bar and Panhard rod at the rear. The handling is thusly excellent in the extreme but the ride at the rear is just much too firm; was thinking of a SPAX or more multi-adjustable type for the rear, accordingly. The "softer" rear spring offered by Mania sounds like just the ticket... MORE
Hey, guys Before I go (thus uncluttering the site to a great extent!), has anyone had experience with the "20% softer" MiniMania replacements for the stock multi-leaf 1/4 elliptics. MiniMania here in the States is having a 15% off sale on all items 'till the end of the month and my '61 Frog original types are loaded with friction, for sure, along with a little "left lean" (courtesy of portly PO, not 135lb me!) Would appreciate any feedback/advice! Thanks! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 3462... MORE
OK, Bill French, we'll "back off"; time to eat anyway. The Bugeye awaits for transport to French Toast, OJ and of course, more coffee! Must lubricate door hinges and throttle linkage today. Enjoy day, Bill! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 3461... MORE
Jeff: Poly and nylon differences? You've come to the right man, to some extent. I am using poly bushes for my front 3/4 sway bar; I "open" these every six months and lubricate them with an anti-sieze compound mixed with a blue grease. Otherwise, they "dry out" and "squeak" like hell; they become sort of "brittle" and "harden" otherwise, causing friction to free motion. To come up with slight negative camber on the front wheels, I used offset poly bushes ("top" only). These dried out, began squeaking like hell and thus wore out within a year due to no... MORE
I had the same problem with my 1275 after a re-build. Engine out three times trying to fix it, new everything at the back end but still dripping oil. After reading various articles about mini's / midgets / general A series info I decided my oil pressure was too high. My idle pressure was about 50+ cold and warm. I fitted a new oil pressure release valve and the pressure dropped a bit, I then cut a coil off the release valve spring and the pressure is pretty much what it says it should be in the book. There... MORE
Oh yes I agree 100% it's better than the standard box but fitting is not easy as all the cars are slightly different. I had problems with slave cylinder / chassis leg clearance and ended up having to put a 3mm spacer under one of the engine mounts and 10mm between the gearbox and it's mount. I have continuing problems with the speedo drive, I ended up getting a right angle drive but am not 100% happy with that. I'd go electronic if I could find someone to build an electronic movement into the original speedo. "Jeremy Cogman" 3266... MORE
Hi list, Here're some simple questions concerning my GAN3 (MKII Midget, 1965) resto-project (remember the car is in bits and pieces, engine and gearbox are out). I think most questions are related to "some advice wanted" from experienced people: - Should I replace the spigot bush? How to determine if it's necessary? - How to see if the spring-boxes need attention? Should I open the rear bulk-head to see if the spring-boxes need attention? - How to prevend rust forming between two spot welded pannels? (for example floor to sill seams) - How to prevend rust at the edges... MORE
Obviously the ice that I was referring to would, of course, be made with only the finest flat spring water .... ...(and surely the number of drops that you have to add depends on the amount of whiskey (whisky ??!!) in the glass? =:-) "Stuart Toller" 3169... MORE
Oh right, that bit- like a pair of chassis rails. Yep, early cars didnt have this, they just had a few small gussets. Carry on... "Grant Bowyer" 3103... MORE
"More photos in photo section" 'Cause, Gary, some of us (like myself) have just gotten their scanners and haven't set them up, yet! Working on it. (First I've got to take apart my 45DCOE and find the two little ball bearings and how they affect the accelerator pump circuit if, in fact, they affect this circuit at all, as I have been led to believe in prior experience, so that I can get off the hook with "Daniel 1312"!) However, pictures of my little Leaf Green '61 Frog are "on the way"! Just don't hold your breath! Cap'n. Bob... MORE
Hi all, In need of help again. Convinced the car is running rich (and I cannot get it any leaner) and that I can get it going better I had a look at the carbs. It is a November 1972 1275cc UK car with no known mods. Twin Su's. The needles are AN, are these right as my book says this year should have AAT? Will this matter? The needles have no spring behind them. Where should the shoulder of the needle be in relation to the piston? When the piston bottoms what should bottom on to what? Now... MORE
Hi Ed. On the left hand side of my screen, next to the replies etc. I have a column with the words Home Messages Post Chat Files Photos Etc. Etc. Just click on the photos link and you should have it...Unless your screen has a different layout.(maybe if you're using Apple-mac?) Good luck. Gary L AN5L 1958 "Gary Lazarus" 3096... MORE
Hello everyone When driving my car the tach shows an idle at 1500 and it sounds like 1500. Now I know that it is not that it is out of tune because I just had it colored tuned this last spring and it was done right. It seams to me that the throatly cable is sticking, I can go under the bonnet and with a screw drive push on the metal wing that is against the heat shield in the middle of the carbonators, and the idle goes from 1500 to 1000 and smooths right out. How can I... MORE
no my doesn't go to zero just becomes steady, I have just run a seperate earth from tacho to chassis it doesn't make any difference so any tips appreciated mike c "michael.chapman4" 3057... MORE
I've got 2 here within arms reach of the keyboard! Both for sale (moving house and garage.) "rob thomas" 3044... MORE
Jason: Slide under the steering wheel on your back, get your flashlight up there and find the wires going to the gauge, pull the fittings out gently and change the bulbs! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 3018... MORE
Hmmmmm! Not the coil, huh!? And "roger" the other info, David. Keep me(us) advised, Dave; I am curious as are most others, I assume. You will find the problem in time, I'm sure. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 3012... MORE
Hi all, Many thanks to Cpt'n Bob and all of you for the helpful replies to my misfi re problem. The coil has been replaced twice (I had guessed a crack in the coil winding could be opening up when hot). The Carbs are oversize SU's, with a special inlet manifold, and a stainless heat sheild. The fuel lines are well back from the exhaust too. My favorite is the Distributor. I will try to get this bench tested - anyon e know a place in the south (UK) that can do this for me? Thanks again. David. David... MORE
I would agree - except that David says he replaced the coil... Did it misfire prior to the coil replacement? possible I guess that the new coil is also faulty... (Lucas PoD etc etc...) Electrical connections/HT leads also worth checking... James "James Bilsland" 2999... MORE
Echoing Capt. Bob's ignition thoughs, I had a problem like this (well the car actually). In the end I replaced the coil. When it warmed up it started to do what you have been experiencing (coil starting to break up when hot). Somebody on one of our club rallies experienced a failing coil recently as well again with similar symptoms - it was the coild again. You shouldn't really be getting vapourization probs with a Midget/Sprite unless the your fuel lines are taking a rather odd route. Egg and all that does your car have electronic or contact breaker... MORE
Weak coil!! I think you hit the nail on the head, Chris. This would account for both problems, I truly believe! "Symptoms" sound just right for this, don't they?! Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 2997... MORE
