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Sometimes it can be related to the springs in the distributor get hot and stretched out. Have the dist. bench tested. "Paul M McCalib" 2993... MORE


Hi all, My 1967 early Mk 4 sprite features a misfire when it gets warm, especially sat in traffic. I THINK it may be related to the non vacuum advance distrib utor. Has anyone else had a similar problem? It seems to go away when the e ngine cools. The motor is 1275cc, stage 2 head, and I think the distributor was modified for race (not my doing!). I get a very bad problem cold starting the vehic le which seems to improve when I replace the plugs and the rotor arm - but then gradually gets worse again... MORE


To All- Coming late on this "thread" as away on company "trip" for the last four days (and survived!! Again!! Amazing!!) I believe completely in RR sessions for "tuned" engines, as long as dyno operator is also a skilled engine tuner. There are dyno operators who know how to run a dyno, who are NOT tuners!! Beware the dyno operator who cannot seem to figure out why your mixture "drys out" under load/high rpm when fuel jets are known to definitely be in the "ball park"; such is a dead giveaway to a dyno operator who is NOT a... MORE


On Sunday the 29th July I visited Brooklands Motor Museum with my 91 year old father. It was his first return to Brooklands since his early childhood. The highlight of the day was when we drove my Mk I Sprite up the test hill and round the banking. If anyone was there that day and took a photograph of my car on the hill - leaf green Frog LVS 957 - or who knows someone who did, would they please get in touch as I would like to provide my father with a reminder of the occasion. Obviously all... MORE


Beckers is right *iff* you are using radials (you probably are). If you are using crossplys like the Hoosier Street TD or slicks, you can drop the pressures down to low 20s (cold) The scientific method involves a pyrometer and measuring the distribution of temp across the tread. Failing that, look for excess wear on the edges (too low) or the centre (too high). This is *iff* your alignment and camber are correct... Mike "Mike & Kerry Gigante" 2907... MORE


HI everyone my oil cooler problem has been solved. In case you missed the post. This is who it was resolved. Thanks to Peter C. we got this thing figured out. The 1500 oil filter riser plate, which raises the filter mounting up out of the way of the steering shaft, has a removable screw in adapter that allows different size oil filters. It was just a matter of removing the adapter from the riser plate, installing the new adapter and oil diverter from the kit to the riser and fitting the old adapter to the new and than... MORE


Jason IMHO the best 'B's are the early cars - pre- 64 pull door handle roadsters - also the most expensive and hardest to find... The best 'useable' B if you are going to run it as your everyday transport is the last of the chrome bumper cars i.e. 73-74 (5 brg crank, overdrive, alternator etc etc) roadster or GT (although in Maine you might prefer a GT in the winter...) Rubber bumper cars suffer from the same problems as 1500 Midgets - too heavy with jacked up suspension means they don't handle and are slower than the earlier... MORE


Phil thanks for the info. Your first mods is about what I plan on doing funds permitting. Lowered springs, new bushes some negative camber and maybe a =BE anti-roll bay to start. Wheels and tyres later. The frontline conversion I have to give it some thought. Will order up the parts soon as they are on sale. The first rainy spell we get I will install the new item s along with an oil cooler. Don=92t want to do it while the sun shines that is driving time. Again thanks for the advise. Doug "Doug Pletcher" 2825... MORE


The steel wheel axels will not fit as they are longer than w/w axels. I have a w/w axel housing and got made high strength axels that are shorter so i can fit steel wheels to the w/w diff housing. Beware your tyre/rim will be closer to the springs, which may not be a problem, i have 13x6 rims with 175/60/13 tyres and spacers must be used. "Beckers" 2807... MORE


Hi chaps, Been sort of off-list for a while. I think I was asked a question about front springs before I went off. If the person wants to ask again I promise not to run off, but I hope the following helps... My car (well one of): '79 1500, which while ion my care has gone from std to... First Mods:- 3/4" Anti-roll bar + 5" wheels & 165/70 13" tyres + Moss 'special Tuning' 330lb/" -1.5" springs (I think) + nylatron -ve camber trunnion bushes + 30% uprated leverarms. Second mods: Frontline front telescopic conversion Third mods (to... MORE


I have just been handed August Practical Classics Mag here at work. On page 80 there is a feature on the Frogeyed Sprite featuring Tony Scott's stunning leaf green froggy. Tony is a member of the this list and the Midget & Sprite Club (my local natter). Well done Tony, you kept that quiet :-) Chris N "Chris Nevard" 2791... MORE


Kevin Thank you for your reply, from the address you have given me in the US the carriage price for the front suspension conversion is 83.90 using UPS and the conversion kit it's self costs 275, I think the exchange rate is around $1.4 : 1 and you usually get the best exchange rate by using a credit card which will give you the rate of the day. I hope this helps and should you wish to go ahead please confirm you full address and desired form of payment ( you may wish to phone or fax a credit... MORE


Depends on rubber engine mount condition, how the turrets are bolted to the chassis, type of dashpot cap etc etc. I got mine to fit under a standard bonnet. There are several ways to get the clearance improved by as much as an inch. Some involve cutting the engine turrets, some machining the manifold, some rebolting the turrets, polishing the tip of the dashpot cap. The list is endless, the result is very worthwhile. "rob thomas" 2790... MORE


???????? What to do with the 760.000 remaining grumpy old bags?????? For the rest it's a very nice idea.... ;-)) Eeg. eeg.oberije@... 2770... MORE


Hello fellow Members, My Frogeye Sprite is looking for a good home: It is a Geoffrey Healey-approved Isle of Wight-built replica with a twin-carb 65bhp 1,275cc A-Series motor. GRP shell on a galvanised steel chassis assures a long life. Colour is bright red with biscuit tan interior, new battery, windscreen, Pirelli tyres on Minilite replicas and a stainless steel Maniflow exhaust. I have owned this car for six years, but too much work means I have no time to drive it, and cars do need to be used. Keith Brading who started the Frogeye Car Company and John Mead... MORE


Kevin Surprised to hear you could not find the price for our front suspension kit, it is possible the mirror site in the US has not got all the listings although it should, can you email me the web address you were looking at so I can check it out and sort it. The price for the front kit is shown on the web address below, we can deliver direct to the US, just email you address and I will give you a quote for delivery. Thanks Tim Fenna www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/ "Tim Fenna" 2713... MORE


All, After the last visit to the mechanic, he told me the front shocks in my 77 Midget need replacing. In looking at Moss and Vic Brit catalogs, I see conversion kits for the rear, but nothing beyond different springs for the front. Recent discussions pointed me to Frontline. But the website does not contain pricing on the front end kit. Anyone know the current price? Brake lights are out. Bulbs appear fine. Brake lights are usually optional in Massachusetts, but need to get the beast inspected soon, and the Powers That Be want the lights functional. How easy... MORE


Not sure about the front shock conversion, but the brake light switcheroo, ain't no big thing. Because of the location on the leading edge of the foot-pedal box under the hood, sometimes requires small fingers. Pretty simple fix otherwise. I replaced mine in about 30 minutes or so. "Stevens, David" 2697... MORE


Hi Jim The Vicky. Brit. part # is 18-228 will also need # 18-229 plate #18-203 bushing ( 12-342 nuts ) hope this helps Or use kit # 12-5711 Paul 80 Midget Toronto Canada "Paul Sudoma" 2658... MORE


Right Hi Chaps, I'm back on the road. Well after all the "trials and tribulations" I have, with the help of a very good friend taken the head off my engine...........remember the "new 1330"..........and replaced the head gasket............it had blown, between 2 & 3, just as we thought. Probaly due to my negligence in not tightening the head bolts after the engine had been run for the first time and got up to temperature..........ah well you live and learn. Why would the bloody thing not start?.......Well we just do not know, but, we also stripped the carburettor down and... MORE


Does anyone know the part no. of the bolt/nut that attaches the rear of the right-sided leaf-spring on a 1980 midget. Or alternatively (if its not a special bolt) the correct size. The existing one is too short and has failed an MOT. Regards, Jim. jim.wyper@... 2624... MORE


Hi, My Frogeye Sprite is looking for a good home: It is a Geoffrey Healey-approved Isle of Wight-built replica with a twin-carb 65bhp 1,275cc A-Series motor. GRP shell on a galvanised steel chassis assures a long life. Colour is bright red with biscuit tan interior, new battery, windscreen, Pirelli tyres on Minilite replicas and a stainless steel Maniflow exhaust. I have owned this car for six years, but too much work means I have no time to drive it, and cars need to be used. If you are interested, please drop me an e-mail. Cheers, IAN KUAH IK 2618... MORE


Jim, If you are refering to the shackle bolts on the 1/2 eliptical spring, MOS MOTORS calls it a shackle plate w/ pins. The bolts are actually part of the shackle. Perhaps the P.O. had changed it over to bolts by drilling, or grinding the pins off? Moss part number is 265-455 @ $20.50ea. The other shackle plate is Moss Part Number 265-465 @ $6.95. Hope this is helpful Dave in NY "Stevens, David" 2625... MORE


Chris Regarding events in the north, I received an invitation from Les and Diane inviting me, and presumably other members in the North West to a regular monthly meeting on 2nd Wednesday of each month at 8pm, at the Ridgeway Arms, Blackrod near Chorley (on the A6 just off junction6 of the M61). They are also going to be at the Houghton Tower Classic Car Show on 22nd July (situated between Preston and Blackburn, junction 3 of the M65). I checked with Diane and she is happy for me to put the information on the list and invite any... MORE


Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. anticlockwise. Haynes: This is a snug fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: This is a tight fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Pry... Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into... Haynes: Undo... Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size). Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: PINGGGG... MORE