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Another possibility (and an old Spridget favourite) is that the front shock absorbers are worn out. Try 'bouncing' the front of the car up and down each side. If the car keeps going up and down when you let go then the front dampers are worn out. You can try topping them up with hydraulic oil. If the oil then pumps its way out past the seals over the next couple of days you need to replace the dampers. New dampers are now available and though expensive are well worth it. Alternatively you might like to consider one of... MORE

Hi Had a similar thing. Big bang when I went over any bump in the road. Felt like the whole front of the car was disconnected from the rest of the car. Front wavered about at any thing over 55 mph. Fault was the link from the anti roll bar to the wishbone. This dumbell looking bit has the fixing bolts set into the bells with stiff rubber. One was minus rubber and under shock loads it just moved about. Dead easy to replace and was only some 16. Now no more bangs and stable up to 70 mph.... MORE

Hello Everyone When I am driving along and hit a bump in the road it looks like that the front end body of my car is lose. I have taken and pulled up and down and side to side on the fenders and it is solid. It is almost like a optical illusion. Any ideas out there? Thanks Jason Gross Brewer Maine 1971 Midget 1275cc GAN 5 UB 94654 G "Jason Gross" 1789... MORE

I recently purchase 1961 LHD Bugeye Sprite. After numerous attempts to install the correct arms and blades I have come to the conclusion that the wiper system on the car may have come from a RHD Bugeye or possibly was incorrectly installed. (Not much on the car is original) Does anyone know if there is a way to correct the problem or do I need a completely new unit? Can the start and stop position of the wipers be modified? If it has to be replaced. . . . what components will I need? Many thanks in advance for... MORE

Yeah, except that I went walking around a parking lot last night and my theory was disproved. Regardless.... you still haven't told us where you are sitting, or more specifically, is the car RHD or LHD? Oh well.... peter "Peter C." 1733... MORE

Having just purchased our first Midget (1969 Mk III pre-face lift), is there anyone close to the middle of the UK (we live near Warwick), who would like to realise a little cash by selling me their MIG welder? Also I need rear floors (or complete full length panels) and heelboard/ rear bulkhead/ spring boxes? Anybody got any surplus panels please? I shall then have more to spend on other items later on during the (no doubt expensive) restoration... "Graham Roberts" 1717... MORE

I have a 61 Bugeye that I just purchased and it has a lot of "upgraded" parts on it. I'm having problems determining the correct position for the wiper arms and blades. I'm not sure if I have the wrong motor or the wrong arms and blades. Question: As you sit in the drivers seat, with the wiper motor in the "off" position. . . .does the blade and arm rest on the left of the screen or does it rest on the right? When first turned on, does the arm and blade first travel from left to right... MORE

Can someone help? I have nothing to compare and the arms don't seem to match. I have a 61 Bugeye that I just purchased and it has a lot of "upgraded" parts on it. I'm having problems determining the correct position for the wiper arms and blades. I'm not sure if I have the wrong motor or the wrong arms and blades. As you sit in the drivers seat, with the wiper motor in the "off" position. . . .does the blade and arm rest on the left of the screen or does it rest on the right? When... MORE

Dear Miget-Spriters: Please allow me to cross post this from the MGB group in case someone is interested. Thanks for the bandwith: I decided to sell my B! It is a brit racing green 67 in clean daily driver condition. No rust. Originally from CA always garaged. I have owned the car only since earlier this year and I brought it back on the road after it sat for 2 years with the former owner. It is ready for the summer now! Here are all the facts that I can think of. I will take some digi pics tomorrow... MORE

Beckers is right, wedges are the answer. I'll add a bit more detail. Take a piece of 1/4" alloy the same width as the spring, 3" - 4" long is OK. You'll need to relieve the shape to account for bolts and such - simply sitting the plate on the upsidedown spring will make it obvious what I mean. Using a grinding wheel, make the plate tapered along the length - sharp edge at one end, still 1/4" at the other. Refit the springs with the wedge underneath the spring. The sharp edge at the front. You can adjust... MORE

put wedges between spring and pickup point. "Beckers" 1660... MORE

I must admit that I was too ashamed to admit that I'd tried this, with even less success than any other attempt. My spacers weren't bevelled on the inner edge and they rapidly wore down and allowed the tension to come off the hub nut. Bad engineering on my part. The handbrake part was solved by using a 1500 handbrake cable mechanism which doesn't rely on the nasty metal compensator thingy. Costs about 13uk (18$us?) Also stopped the cable fouling the Panhard rod kit. "rob thomas" 1672... MORE

Hi, Anybody who knows how to lower the rear suspension of a Frogeye??? Thanx, Jens jens_of_copenhagen@... 1658... MORE

I did not notice a second contact on the back of the steering wheel hub for the horn, and I could only see the one wire (purple) for the hoen contact off of the turn signal switch. I was guessing that the steeting column is grounded which somehow completes the hoen circuit when you press on the switch. When driving the car my friend (a mechanic) said that the gearshift lever was vibrating quite a bit. I have not had it pop out of gear though. I also have only driven the car about 30 miles sice I have... MORE

Hi Everyone! I just purchased a 1975 Midget MKIII from someone. The car is in pretty good shape bodywise, but needs some front suspension and brake work. I just bought a front brake rebuild kit, new tie rods, front wheel bearings and some other miscellaneous parts. I plan on doing most of this work myself along with a friend who is mechanic. I have two questions though and hopefully someone on this list can help me. 1.) The turn signal switch was bad. When I took the old one out I noticed the horn brush was broken so I... MORE

I recently purchased my 1961 Sprite and it had no wiper arms or wipers. I ordered new arms and wipers from Moss that were supposed to fit a 1958 - 1967. As my luck would have it, they don't fit. Even the curve at the end of the arm is going in the wrong direction. Somewhere along the way the wipers components must have been modified. The male drive gear where the wiper arm attaches is larger than the female component of the arm. Does anyone have any guesses or suggestions as to what to do next? Thanks in... MORE

1275 backplates are listed as the same part number as the later 1/4 elliptic ones. So we need a late Mk 2 axle with the 2-piston type cylinders. If we get the same distance measured on this, we will be able to deduce what is wrong. Maybe there are 2 different dimensions of rear axle on the early cars? One for single piston cylinders and a slightly different one for the later Mk2 Sprites. OR.......Maybe we just keep screwing up! Dave. Any idea which year Sprite your spare axle came from? "rob thomas" 1620... MORE

So it was the third ribcase gearbox in almost as many years. Always first and reverse, followed by 4th. This time the seemingly perfect 'low mileage since rebuild' box was grinding whenever it was in reverse and would jump out as soon as any load went on it. It had hardly turned a wheel since the previous box had been replaced. Ring any bells? I thought it might be the fork on the reverse gear wearing out. I drained the box (lots of bronze iddy-biddy flakes) and got under it for a look-see. I moved the gearstick into reverse... MORE

Hi gang, I'm re-doing a 77 Midget. I did the Lucas to GM alt($33.00). conversion. Now I'm rewiring the car. I got a streetrod harness from Centech ($210.00) out of Philly. It's so/so. Painless is still the best on the market. My hard part has been getting the british switches to convert to US. So far , so good. I found carpet on Ebay for $85.00, and a roof for $135.00 also. Now I found the "steering arm" on the pass side a tad loose, and the bottom pivit on the drivers side is missing a grease fitting, and... MORE

My mistake. Should have consulted the Mossalogue before writing. I've got a 1/4 elliptic with later backplates (origins unknown) that puts the backplates too far outboard. The drum touches the backplate, the bearing carrier fouls the 'oil collector' on the backplate and finally the slave cylinder is too close to the carrier. I diagnosed "Wrong Backplate with Too Much Offset" Disease but have since noticed the same part number for 1275s and late Frogs. (BTA 566) Are 1500 backplates different only due to the different hole for the cylinder locating spike? What have I ballsed up? Confusion reigns in... MORE

Has anyone in the UK got either a 1/4 elliptic axle case+later 2-piston backplates or just the backplates? Not 1/2 elliptic backplates. Even from a trader? Have lots of goodies to swap. "rob thomas" 1580... MORE

Further to the coach idea if you wanted to be really adventurous you could hire from these guys below and arrive in style, they are fairly local to where you'll be I think. The drive would probably take about 3.5 hours at legalish speeds but the fuel bill might be a bit of a shock !!! http://www.classic-car-hire.co.uk/ TTFN AW "Andrew Worley @ Mi-King" 1566... MORE

The front nearside wheel on my GAN5 has some movement when I grasp the tyre top an bottom and try to rock it. When I get someone to apply the brakes the movement stops. I assume therefore, that the wheel bearings are at fault, rather than the suspension bushes etc. Is my diagnosis right, and does anyone have any nuggets of advice for me before I get stuck in to replace them, like, do I really need the special puller tool it says in the manual or will a standard 3 arm puller work, or perhaps a couple of... MORE

I had the steering arm drop link from a 1939 MG VA saloon idler box hard chromed for a friend. This drop link was badly worn. Not only was it oval it was worn differently over its lenght. A specialist firm on the same factory estate as the company I work for did it. I told them the finished size and that's what I got. Wether they ground the link first to get it uniformly undersize and then plated it up to size or ground the link first to get it uniformly undersize and then plated it up over... MORE

Hi Mike Not exactly 'speed' but there are quite a few Trials Spridgets in the UK. One car that used to turn up at MGCC Silverstone had the rear axle underneath the springs and what looked like Land Rover wheels... Crap handling but fantastic ground clearance! Love to have a go at that dirt oval track... James "James Bilsland" 1515... MORE