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Just picked up a '73 RWA today. My son went to Rockford ,ILL for it and towed it back to Cincinnati. Body looks good, no top, bad tires and time will tell on the engine and trans. Ask again in a month or two. Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 17807... MORE
I am curious as to how much a ribcase in reasonable condition is worth. I'm going to try to set up a deal with a local guy. We are replacing it with a 210 tranny. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn" 17808... MORE
I have a lovely quiet one with 42K on it. I offer it at various prices and have no takers. I wish I knew what to tell you. I have a 5 speed going in also. I ACTUALLY DID SOME WORK ON IT TODAY! HOORAY! (Okay to shout on this one!) Try $200 and expect to fold a bit. Sure would love to trade it for a nice old LCB! I also have a NEW ROLL BAR, 2-bar style, upholstered. It and me are too much for the car. (I'm 6'5' 280#). I guess I'm now the world's largest... MORE
correct, nearly all of yooze Definately 1972 UK market original. Aftermarket steering wheel , on the right side. cigar lighter, not an extra pull switch I'm not sure if they are extra rocker switches, or just been moved to accomodate the extra gauge(in a box somewhere in the garage) MG wings clipped and moved Horrible, horrible, scotchlok clips used to splice wiring. Gearbox and engine already removed by PO,(deceased) so at the moment I don't know how good or bad they are. This car will never be concours. Now do I restore the dashboard as this, or return to... MORE
Picked up some PBBlaster this morning, giving it some time to soak in before I do a serious assault on them again. The 69's 1275 engine is running now but I think I am going to have to do some clutch work The 63 is running great now. Don "Don May" 17800... MORE
Sometime in the near future, I am going to have to tear down the ribcase on the 72 and redo the bearings. I would appreciate suggestions on the best resource to guide me through this process. I have the Haynes manual but as usual there seem to be too many steps that are missing. If anyone has done this project and found a useful guide or manual please pass along the info. Thanks Mark Howard "mbhnm " 17747... MORE
Ah, yes... The "history" in your hands so to speak Don. Not uncommon. Seat belt warning and emergency flashers disconnected behind the console not uncommon. Blinkers worked through these (or wouldn't!!) That small switch on the steering wheel. Maybe an electric fuel pump shutoff or switch for driving/fog lites removed for use on another vehicle. The welded piece to the clutch pushrod is a common external fix for a clutch that just won't go in far enough 'cause linkage is worn, or cylinder "throws" changed as parts were replaced or whatever.... It goes on and on....."history" of a Sprite... MORE
One of the annoying, but often challenging, things about restoration is figuring out what crimes against Spridgets the previous PO's or their mechanics have committed. So far I have discovered . . . Three of the green wires cut and left dangling at the fuse block. A couple of other wires in the area of the fuse block cut. Washers welded to the end of the clutch push rod. Bolt part welded to the end of the clutch cylinder push rod. A small switch mounted on the side of the Steering cowl to? A mass of cut wires in... MORE
Good Morning List. My clutch hydraulics on the current project (69 midget) need to be rebuilt after sitting for 23 years. I would like to see if I can disengage the clutch manually. Any suggestions / tricks to do this with the clutch still in the car? Don "Don May" 17684... MORE
RBH.... $750 for an MGA? Grab it unless it's really a mess. The cars are going for 15K and up in reasonably restored decent shape with good engines. I want to hear from other listers who currently own/drive MGA's or are into them. I owned both my '56 and '61 back in my high school and college days. That was like 40 years ago but, this is what I think I remember. If I am wrong it's OK. I don't mind testing my memory in this respect and don't mind appearing a fool in front others if the following... MORE
G'day Mike Fitting a Marina 1300cc engine into a Sprite/Midget is pretty easy. But much more so if you already have the leftovers from a Sprite 1275cc engine. The sump is different, with the same size half-moon section at each end. This isn't a problem if you have the Marina sump. The sump extension at the back can be simply cut off wih a hacksaw. Front engine plate is different, but any old BMC engine plate will fit. You will need to remove the timing cover and gears, remove and replace the front engine plates then refit gear/chain and... MORE
wasn't the original question about fitting the Marina engine complete with it's single rail gearbox? presumably that's even simpler if you don't have to change the rear engine plate/flywheel etc. "David Jacobs" 17595... MORE
G'day David The net gains are all in your pocket. I forget the exact figures that Brad quoted, but it was something like $95 for a 1" clutch slave cylinder vs $28 for 7/8" cylinder. You wouldn't bother changing a fully functional 1" cylinder just for the heck of it. But when the time does come to change it, the 7/8" one is a much cheaper and viable alternative to consider. seeya Colin "Colin Dodds" 17567... MORE
I have previously mentioned that I was given a 69 MK-III. The previous owner had to have it removed from the family back yard where it sat since 1980. If I had it towed away it was mine. The intention was that it would become a parts car, and if good I would transfer the 1275 and rib case trans from it into my 63 MK-I. However, the 69 is a fairly solid car with no sign of being wrecked, or seriously dented, only one small, but not serious, area of rust in the normal lower post area between... MORE
Has anybody on this list ever done a Morris Marina engine / gearbox conversion for MG Midget. I would love to have the benifit of somebody's hindsight before I embark on this project. Please send your phone number to me directly and I'll give you a call. Thanks in advance. Mike mike@... "Mike Mnemonic" 17561... MORE
G'day Guy The 1275cc style of plessure plate (6 1/2") is sensitive to the amount of travel, and if it gets too much the diaphram can go over-centre and the fingers distort. As you say, using a 7/8" slave cylinder can cause this to happen. But you usually pick this up immediately, as the car will show all the symptoms of the clutch not disengaging, ie: it crunches when you try to select gears. This is easily diagnosed, as you find the gear selection is fine with your foot half-way to the floor, but gets worse as you push... MORE
LOL Bob, well done. I lost my sanity Friday while trying to install the top bolt on the clutch slave cylinder. Don "Don May" 17560... MORE
so what are the net gains from fitting the smaller bore slave cylinder, again? Sounds like a lot of trouble to go to, for more effort at the pedal! "David Jacobs" 17537... MORE
With that being the case, I guess I don't have to ever worry about over clutching my 1275, I switched my 7/8 dual master/clutch cylinder to 3/4" and went to a 1" slave. Easy to depress, but doesn't disengage early. Bob. Portland, Or (AH MK I) "Robert Webb " 17536... MORE
Thanks for the advice Colin. I must say mine de-clutched and shifted fine until it gave out. I certainly wasn't aware of any problems, and couldn't tell it was overthrowing. I was putting out my version just to warn others to be careful - and with your later advice they now at least know what to look out for. All history for me now anyway as I am now using a Ford 5 speed box and modified clutch anyway. Guy "Guy Weller" 17535... MORE
G'day Brad etc What size slave cylinder do you have? The 948cc and 1098cc cars used a 7/8" bore cylinder, with a 3/8" UNF hole for both the (solid) clutch pipe, and the bleed nipple. I have these for $### USD plus $5 shipping. The 1275cc cars used a 1" bore cylinder, with 7/16" hole for the flexible clutch hose. These ones are about $&&& USD, same $5 shipping. But I use the smaller slave cylinders on all cars. You get a slightly harder pedal, but longer travel at the business end. You just need to make up an... MORE
Colin, When I first rebuilt my Sprite I used a 7/8" diameter clutch slave for exactly the reasons you said - it gives a firmer pedal and longer travel. Within 3000 miles the clutch gave out. On close examination it had been "overthrowing", resulting in bent and distorted clutch cover plate fingers. I concluded that this was down to the use of the wrong slave cylinder so rebuilt it with the correct 1" bore size and have had no further problems. It may have been a one-off, but I for one would be wary of using the longer travel... MORE
On the wrecked Datsun: some of the ignition systems have a black box on the inside of the car, passenger side footwell. My rusted out 78 has one. Check the Datsun 210 Yahoo group for what parts the Datsun guys are looking for. I remember that the shifter console was a hot item. Be sure not to lose the bolt/nut that holds the gearshift lever in. It is a special piece, available only at the dealer. I am looking at the radiator to see if it will fit in my MG when I put my Datsun A14/5spd in my... MORE
Hi there As most people on the list will agree, Im way down there in my mechanical aptitude. But certain things stick in my mind, as i was reading about your problem, it occured to me that I had read something similar recently in my club magazine, Please check out http://chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline/1202/jasw.html It may help you, I was proud as hell I remembered where it was LOL Willy "Wm Thompson " 17426... MORE
I have rebuilt the tandem master for the 65 Sprite, as well as the clutch slave. I placed the car on ramps to bleed the clutch. But now I get a variation when I depress the pedal. Sometimes it shifts perfectly, other times, I need to pump the pedal to build pressure to get it to shift. It is the solid line (no rubber hose) all the way to the slave. If it was air, wouldn't it need to be pumped all the time? So, list wisdom, please offer suggestions. Ed, I have a friggin book!!! Brad Fornal 17416... MORE
