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G'day Martyn I had the same problem trying to find a pivot pin for the pedals, so had a local machinist make one up. Well actually, I got him to make 40 of them! Almost every Sprite that comes into the shop to get the brakes fixed, has major slop in the pedals, pushrod forks, clevis pins etc etc. But I only have the pins for the earlier combined clutch/brake master cylinder. Will cost you $11 plus $4 shipping. I can get the other ones for the seperate master cylinders, but not sure how much - supplier is shut... MORE


There is nothing quite so sweet as that low resonance sound of a spridget when running well. I had neglected the MK1 for several weeks because of bad weather but yesterday started it up to take it out for a run around the block. Did not expect much in the way of engine performance. It has been constant cleaning, adjusting and tinkering to get it to run well after its previous owner had let it sit in a garage for 16 years without starting it. The moment it kicked over yesterday there was no doubt everything had fallen into... MORE


Hy guys, I want to ask you about the swap in for a A series A14/15 Datsun engine /gearbox/transmission. Is there one around? Thanks Jaime "Jaime " 17395... MORE


Does anyone know where I can obtain a pivot bolt for the clutch and brake pedals. Mine is badly worn, a friend rebushed the pedals for me and tried to clean up the bolt first (turning it on a lathe- no luck the diameter was getting too small). I've tried Mo$$ etc with no luck. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn" 17383... MORE


Bob, and all Have the nylon washer out now and have removed the pistons. The rear piston was not attached to the front by anything. The manuals I have do not show the wire, or what ever, that wraps around the pins at the end of the front piston to the front of the rear piston. There is what looks to be a cotter pin attached around the rear piston pin but loose. I have no idea how long it is suppose to be, the distance between the front and rear piston, or how compressed the spring is supposed... MORE


Hi all I have one Innocenti Spider 950 Year 1961 with the engine Nr. 9D-U-H- 91758 I have no idee what kind off engin Nr is it for Sprite AN5, or Sprite Mark II, or MG Midget - you start with 9C-U-H.. or 9C-G... ! What is 9D-U-H...? Can you help me about the Numbers - Code Indentifcations for the (my) engine MBC Thanks for help. What is the right Nr for the Gearbox? Is this one Smoot Gearbox Case 948cc? or Ribbed Gearbox Case 1098cc? The Disk for Clutch DIM 6 1/4 is correct? Disk Nr Borg &... MORE


According to Horler the 950 Innocenti used engines with the prefix 9CA-U-H or 9CB-U-H. ( The "U" means a center change lever gearbox and the "H" means high compression. I can find no reference to a 9D prefix . Could it be 9CB and the C is not ledgible and D you see is actually a B? George Stronghilos 17365... MORE


Here's how I removed the innards from my second master cylinder re- build: stopped up all the holes but one and applied air pressure to the cylinder. All the innards popped right out. Be sure to use low pressure 10-25 pounds and don't point the the toward yourself or anyone else. Oh yes, I removed the innards from my first master cylinder by drilling holes in the nylon sleeve until it fell apart. By that time I had marked up everything else in the cylinder with the drill bit. No useable parts left! John "mg_john2 " 17345... MORE


Damn, now you had to go and get me all teary-eyed thinking about my own Chow that I lost a few years ago... Wish my midget was on the road so I could stick my head out over the windshield and dry my face :) Israel "Israel Engle" 17346... MORE


Once I used compressed air to remove the insides of a clutch slave cylinder, had never done it before, zapped it with 80 lbs of air pressure . . . I found the spring a month later during a major shop clean up. :-) I was lucky that time, it was not pointed at me and I had a spare slave to rob one from. Now I do not use 80lb, I don't point it at myself, and I make sure I have some rags wrapped over the end. Don "Don May" 17351... MORE


I am overhauling the dual cylinder master cylinder from the 69 midget. Having a problem here. I have removed the spriolox retaining ring and the outer spring then with some effort removed the circlip which should release the Nylon guide bearing and seal and allow me to remove the rest of the internal parts . . . can't get the nylon guide to come out Ahhhhhhh! cleaned around it, pushed in and quickly released the plunger so it would act as sort of a hammering effect on the rear of the nylon seal. Still cannot get it to come... MORE


It is that cross member that the steering rack and the transfer pipe are attached to that is bent back on this car. The previous owner must have hit some deep pot holes or curbs because that tubular cross member is bent inward about a quarter of an inch or more toward the engine making it almost impossible to remove the belt. There is no sign that the car was damaged from stricking anything with the bumper. That is why I am thinking of parting out the car because I do not want to invest the money to cut... MORE


When I get the 1275 engine in the 69 MK-III running (most likely it will become a parts car because of a bent front cross frame member) if the engine is in good condition I am thinking of transferring it and the rib cage trans to my 63 MK-1. I have not done this before and the information I cannot find is this: Do you use the existing down flow radiator in the MK-1 or also transfer the 69 horizontal flow radiator over to the 63? Don "Don May" 17312... MORE


Sorry chaps in view of the recent correspondance re Brakes, I will add my tuppenyworth to the list now as it appears appropriate. ...................................... Ref. The brake shoe springs are supposed to pull the shoes back from the drum and their close relationship is governed by the proper adjustment of the brakes, via the adjuster. ......................................................................................... If each wheel cylinder has two rubber seals, why don't they auto retract and bring the brake shoes off the drum, LIKE THE FRONT CALIPER SEALS ARE ALLEGED TO DO ? Unless things have changed since I worked for Lockheed Brake Co. and... MORE


Ed in SD writes: "With or without a working clutch....." Well......assuming "neutral".... normally the drag of transmission oil wouldn't be a factor, but since you are trying to turn it over by hand, and have no idea the viscosity of the oil in the gearbox or the shape it is in (jelled?), you might just find it a better idea to raise the rear wheels off the ground (less drag?) which might make the job go a little easier!! With the handbrake off! And, before you try, make sure the rear wheels will easily turn by hand! In other... MORE


Thanks Harry, thats what I needed to know about the gas lines, its raining here in NC today so I hope to have time to find the MG keys so I can get into the trunk to get the scissors jack to see if the tires will inflate with wt off of them! I poured marvel mystery oil in the cylinders yesterday, I am going to look for an aeresol can with a small straw so I can get the oil spread around a 360 degree area. i will use wd 40 if i cant find the MMO in... MORE


May your SU's stay tuned and Lucas connectors tight. May your water temperature stay under 190 and your oil pressure stay above 20. May you encounter no speed bumps over 2 and one half nor bounding deer, nor SUV's who can't see you in their rear. May you only see the bright road ahead through windshield, never under your feet between clutch and brake. May you always remember those annoying oil leaks are but a blessing for they are markers along the road without which some of us would never find our way home. And when that durn Spriget... MORE


Good point about the clutch...they do have a way of "sticking". Better off having this car on jackstands to be sure engine does turn over freely and not being held in place by a sticking clutch with wheels grounded. Turn it over by the fan while holding tension on the belt with the other hand. Is oil in crankcase still liquified or has it "jelled" over time? Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 17217... MORE


"Twas the night before Christmas and in the Garage, There wasn't a trace of a ford or a Dodge. The presents were wrapped, and the lights were all lit, So I figured I'd mess with the bugeye for a bit. I popped the t handle, and lifted the bonnet, When a deep voice behind me said" looks pretty good" Well as you can imagine, I turned mighty Quick, And there, by the workbench, stood good ole Saint Nick! We stood there a bit, not to sure what to say, Then he said, "don't suppose you'd trade for my sleigh?... MORE


Don't waste your time at this stage removing the gas tank. A '73 should have a drain plug, but if it doesn't, buy yourself a hand-pump siphon for $10 or so. You can also easily remove the rubber hose connection between the filler neck and the tank opening (inside the trunk). Use a flashlight, not electric lamps to inspect. you don't want to take the chance of a spark igniting gas fumes. You will almost certainly need to disassemble the carbs and floats before it will runs, as well as the brake and clutch system. Once you hand crank... MORE


Well, shes been sitting for 8 to 10 yrs, only my aging back caused me to quit driving! British Racing Green(originally mallard green)with tan seats. Heres my plan, Squirt marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes to prepare the engine for a hand turnover via the fan blade bolt and a long ratchet(hope its not too hard to turn). I tried inflating to flat tires and only two inflated. I guess I will have to take the wheels off to get the other two to inflate as tubeless bead arent making a good seal, maybe I can just... MORE


-George, I got out the creeper and rolled under the Samurai (Early '88 five speed). Here are the approximate transmission dimensions: Front of bellhousing to end of tailshaft = 20" Front of bellhousing to end of shift lever housing = 24" Bottom of trans to top of shift housing is 10" Bellhousing is 14" wide. The widest point of the transmission (except for the bellhousing) is 8 1/2" forward of the end of the tailshaft and is a hair more than 7" wide. Bellhousing tapers from 14" to 7" in about 7" Hope that helps. "mbhnm " 17124... MORE


Exactly, RBH- A "reasonable" category should be established for passenger-carrying SUV's appropriate to their weight/horsepower ratio or whatever. At his point they will become as efficient in these respects as they can reasonably be compatible with smooth running. It can be done and should be done for the well-being of all concerned, especially in "dense" traffic areas (NY Metro area, fr'instance). Later pollution-equipped Spridgets and LBC's have their "categorical" specs. to meet here in CT. 'til their 20th birthday at which time they become "exempt" in this respect, as do other older type pax carrying vehicles. Retrofitting non-pollution types... MORE


Steve, I am based in Leeds and have recently just done a full clutch job and engine build. If I can help please contact me. Where did you get the job done and what did they say they have done. Sounds like they have put it all back together without any care as most symptoms sound like basic setting up ie unsealed exhaust connection, timing and possibly tappets. "Peter Whittle" 17066... MORE


With reference to your problems since having clutch fixed. 1. Did they fit a complete 3 piece clutch? 2. I recently took my engine out and replaced the clutch unit and inevitably when you remove an engine from a 35 year old (mine is 1967 too) engine it disturbs things. I had vibrations for a couple of weeks when accelarating in 3rd gear, turned out to be the timing had been knocked when hoisting the engine out. 3. Chinking noises could be tappets, put a screwdriver from your ear to the rocker cover while the engine is running and... MORE