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Hello chaps We recently had a clutch problem with our Mark IV (1967) so she went in for some (very expensive I might add) work. Now she's come back, there seems to be a whole new set of problems that weren't there previously. Before I go back to the garage and ask them what the deuce they think they've done to my baby, I'd like to be as well-informed as possible. The symptoms are: 1. Quiet chinking noises from the engine, which get faster as I rev her up. My next-door neighbour suggests it might be the tappets, either... MORE
it's not usually the engine itself, it's mating it up to a suitable transmission that can be tricky - you'll need to source a suitable bellhousing or adaptor to get the two to join up. If it's already commercially available, it's obviously a whole lot easier! For example, the Rover K series/Ford gearbox is quite a well known conversion now. Regards David "David Jacobs" 17053... MORE
I've posted this on other boards and thought I'd throw this out here as well. Has anyone looked into installing a Suzuki Swift GT engine in the Sprite and if so can they share their findings? Suzuki Swift Gt 1989-1995 1300cc DOHC 16 valve 100HP 83Lbs torque weighs about 275lbs. Although front wheel drive it will bolt up to a Samurai 2wheel drive tranny. George Stronghilos 17048... MORE
Hi, Have been having a terrible time with the engine on my '79 1500 Midkget since removing it to replace clutch. Still fighting with on and off not start problem, Leaking water pump and some other annoying things. Started to suspect a carb problem,insufficient choke? I have adjusted the choke a couple times very recently (ZS150CD4T) the one with the auto "water" choke. Went to check it once more, while removing the cover the black plastic insulator just crumbled to peices. I was hoping someone might be able to help me out with this part. I know alot of... MORE
Tried it.and yes it does work. Probably safer too. Having said that I will prabably stick with my grease gun! I also found it useful to use a little oil occasionally to moisten the grease in the front ssuspension! The purists will probably throw up their hands in horror, but it made my suspension last. Still on the original king pins (swivel pin) but have at last had to replace those dreadful threaded pins at the bottom. done over 100,000. Regular cleaning and maintenance seems to have been the main secret though. "Roger Stinson" 17012... MORE
I have a 60 bugeye with a 1098 gearbox installed. The fitting on the front U-joint does not face toward the access hole, and there is not enough room to get one of those angled fitings on a grease gun over fitting by going through the access hole. Can someone suggest how to get the grease gun onto the fitting? I'm also wondering if something was installed incorrectly? Also, my manual indicates that the front steering rack is to be lubed with 90 wt gear oil (I think - don't have the manual with me). The steering rack is... MORE
Hi all. Looking for help with a no start problem. I rimoved the engine on my Midget 1500 1979 to replace the clutch. Engine ran fine, started and ran it before I pulled it out. Now engine back in and it won't start. I thought I checked over everything so now I need some suggestions. All connections are tight. Points are opening, cap,points,wires,plugs all newly installed before job was started. Checked all fuses, No spark from plug wires when engine is cranked, also no spark from lead going to distributor when engine is cranked. Coil was not fooled with... MORE
So it goes with the original 7/8" master cylinder, Bob Irwin. The later 3/4" type Mk ll set-up would provide more pressure with less effort. I, too was considering a switch over to a 3/4" bore, in consideration of the effort required after going over to discs. Then I considered the problem of maintaining directional control in "panic" stop situations as a consequence of "locking them up". Especially in view of the fact you never have to worry about exerting too much pressure in a "panic stop".....it's instinctively "automatic". And that's exactly "the problem", most especially with power brakes.... MORE
I assume that I do have the original master cylinder. I don't know how to tell until I take it apart. Would replace it with the 3/4", but they seem to be hard to come by. Clearly two master cylinders would be better - do they fit in the space of the one original? Any ideas on where I could get one and where I can find instructions on how to install it. Thanks Bob rlirwn@... 16902... MORE
I have a 1960 Bugeye with original brakes on the back and disk brakes on the front. Last year I rebuilt the calipers, put on new pads, rotors, hoses, brake shoes, and rear brake cylinders. In short, I think I did everything I can except the master cylinder. The brakes are orders of magnitude better than when I started. However, I still have to push pretty hard to get the car to stop, and a "panic" stop would be difficult. Is this just the nature of the sprite brakes, or am I likely to get significant improvement by replacing... MORE
I am fitting the late 1500cc twin circuit master cylinder to my 1275cc but I can not source a new push rod. Can any one tell me what the length of the push rod should be from say centre of pivot point to end of rod as I hope to manufacture one this weekend. "Peter Whittle" 16768... MORE
I can't imagine BMC going against type, so it's most likely supposed to be a 3 synchro 'B' series gearbox, as fitted in MGAs, MGBs and countless other saloons of the period. I (or rather Neil Cairns on http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccz/technic/codeseng.pdf ) can confirm that the 15F engine is the correct one for a USA spec Metropolitan. Regards David "David Jacobs" 16678... MORE
You know, Dave Jacobs... That's what I thought, too. Figured an A or B box with 1st locked out, but the Metropolitan's box has a non-synchro first and is column mounted instead. Maybe it's an A or B box with 4th locked out through a higher diff? I am not knowing but supposedly, this is all standard Austin A 50 running gear according to Slightly Classics. The truck-like floor mounted handbrake on the extreme left side of the driver's compartment (LHD) was sort of unexpected, as well. Very cool little car! Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16680... MORE
Much appreciated, Brad. Engine oil it is. But now we are not too sure it's an MGA gearbox at all though we know that its an the engine is a "15F-H-" model. You see, it powers an original 1960 Nash Metropolitan!! ("Beep, beep.... beep, beep....his horn went beep, beep, beep.......!") Anyone have a clue as to what gearbox was hooked up to the MGA Series "B" type that came factory installed in these cool little cars (not that anyone should, but......!:) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16672... MORE
I have recently had the engine out to replace gearbox and whilst at it changed the cam shaft (1275cc) and the fan and the front brakes to extra large disks and callipers and the diff and propshaft and .................. (Another casualty of while it is in bits story). Obviously I have had the sump off this has been replaced with new gaskets and rubber front and back half moon seals.Previously we had no oil leaks now it don't exactly drip but dribble. I know I will have to take the sump off again but any ideas how to get... MORE
Yo!! Anyone owning one of these great cars... Could you tell me the factory recommended gearbox lubricant for this type? For the "B" I know it was motor oil but for the "A", I can't recall whether it's the same or gear oil. TIA! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16656... MORE
No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye got Engine (1275), Transmission (Ribcase), Differntal (3.90), Rear brakes (dual piston), Disc brakes, wheels & tires, Driveline, steering column, and steering rack. The Bugeye body is different, sidecurtains, windshield, interior mirror, doors would inter-change with a 63 but the 69 would be different in those areas. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 16594... MORE
Thanks Bob, Thanks for the information. I was wondering if I would have to buy any additional parts to use the wire wheels off the 69 on my 63 using the front and rear wire hubs from 69 to do the change over. New hub change over kits are rather expensive. Don From: Robert Webb To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 5:36 PM Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Parts swap list No list that I know of, but what were you thinking of? I have a 60 Bugeye and the donner car for it was a 69 MG. My Bugeye... MORE
Agreed, Ryanmill1 Best all around smallest sports car thus far for the buck is arguably the Miata, I guess. It does everything reasonably well and is of decent appearance. Would love to see a modernized Midget with the Cooper's 115hp engine hooked up to a 5 speed. Would definitely have to come in under US20k for a proper niche in the market I would think....sell a zillion of them if priced right. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 16565... MORE
Well, Jorge- Now I get the picture...so much for a hung up or sticking throttle cable I have never had an engine wherein I kept the emissions systems. These came (same as your's, most likely) on my PO'd '74 and I removed them entirely, replaced the oil and fuel caps with vented ones, cut the restrictors on the carbs, and vented the crankcase to atmosphere through K&N filters from valve cover and timing case flame arrestor. Of course, the air pump on the exhaust side went also along with the charcoal element cannister for fuel vapors and engine crankcase... MORE
I had a similar problem and the cable was hanging. Also, needed to replace the spring to pull the cable all the way back down. I was able to manually move the arm and after driving, it would "stick" again. livelovegolf2@... 16529... MORE
Is that a big deal? When i replaced the master cylinder, i just poured in a bottle of the $2 stuff Ryan "ryanmill1" 16486... MORE
Bela- I know what you mean about winding up the engine for no good reason on a daily driver. Could not agree with you more. My current "build" is specifically "tailored" to to the low and mid-range and while it will rev. freely to 6.5K, there is just no reason to "go there", especially with the 5 spd. Shifting at 5,000 puts me in a good position "torque-wise" with the next higher gear in all cases. What size is the ZS on your 1500? 1.5" (38mm) or 1.75 (44mm)? As I would think the mfg. knew what he was... MORE
HATE TO SELL BUT I HAVE TO MOVE!!! Email me for info and pics brutiss@... . Awesome 1970 mg midget, sorry ot sell, but have a new job and have to move. This little beauty was in storage for 20 years, and then taken out and brakes replaced, engine rebuilt, carbs rebuilt. The interior is immaculate. original, no rust inside, new carpet, new top, no rips inside, am/fm cassette. This interior is sweet. 1 previous owner. Absolutely no rips. Floor pans solid no rust. The car is painted in the original burnt orange (original paint. Absolutely no accidents, engine... MORE
Guys- I forget which site we were having a discussion last week on Judson blowers, so I am forwarding this message on octanes used in a high compression 948cc motor installed in a racing Bugeye owned by Jacques LeClainche who belongs to the Spridget Autox.Team List. This motor is most likely runnng between 13.0-14.0 to 1 as are a lot of racing Series "A"'s running "O-ringed" today. What makes the post interesting is that 30-32 degrees of total ignition advance (which is the normal total for a stock 8.8-1 1275 using normally available premium pump octanes) is still being... MORE
