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Forgot to paste it in soooooo here it is. RULES OF THE AIR 1. Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory. 2. If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger. If you pull the pull the stick back, they get smaller. That is, unless you keep pulling the stick all the way back, then they get bigger again. 3. Flying isn't dangerous. Crashing is what's dangerous. 4. It's always better to be down here wishing you were up there than up there wishing you were down here. 5. The propeller is just a big fan in... MORE
Jeremy, I'm not sure what you referring to, but if you mean the tank at the firewall over the tranny, that is an oil/crankcase vent recovery system. Gerard "gerardchateau" 16391... MORE
i am attempting to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my 1500 midget, dual line type from a 1979. After removing rubber boot,push rod, spring and retainer, next removed snap ring holding in the nylon bushing. My question is does anyone with experience with this tell me how to remove this nylon bushing/retainer so I can get the cylinder out of the bore?? The manual says to just depress piston a couple of times but this thing will not budge. Thought about just digging it out but fear damaging the bore. Any tricks would be helpful. Thank You Mike... MORE
Well- I used to drive MG A&B's and Spridgets all the time in New York Metro area winter conditions. As long as you stay with 78 aspect ratio tyres (and a decent all weather one at that), they do fine if you simply drive sanely in frozen precip. or I'd not exist in present form on the planet presently! There are exceptions in terms of wider wheels and tyres. The Spridget is a relatively light vehicle after all and shape of footprint and tyre loading become factors to consider. Of course, any car is going stay in better condition... MORE
Hmmmm, this reminds me of a similar experience. I had just driven to university to drop off a few things to a friend, got back in the car and drove off. On my usual perusal of the gauges, the oil pressure gauge had 'nothing on the clock but the maker's name' as you fly boys say. So clutch in, engine off, and pulled over to see what was up. Pulled the dip stick and that too only had the maker's name on it, so to speak. Checked under the car and you guess it, no sump plug. As the... MORE
Well, I was hoping it wouldn't come to this, but the midget has to go. I will be moving soon and do not have the time or money to finish making it roadworthy. If anyone is interested, make me an offer. I have over $2,000.00 invested in parts alone. The particulars are as follows: 1978 MG MKIV Midget 1500, No rust! New custom (leopard print velvet!) upholstery on seats, door panels, shift boot, and dashcover. (Dash is cherry under the cover) Nice top and perfect glass! Has four nice BF Goodrich tires, new Delco alternator conversion, new front suspension... MORE
George Stronghilos writes: "After all this I may have to sell my Judson"! Well, George....maybe! But, I can only go by the experience of others along with my own and advise I was heavily into the Judson application and it's success. Without at least a water/ meth. delivery system, my experience (along with those of others) tells me it's an uphill battle on today's pump octanes. Racing fuel is a different matter. I even had an engine built for the Judson. I just installed my new Rivergate 1293 and it runs just beautifully. Very smooth and very strong even... MORE
Hey, Guys!! Bree was kidding in her response to my supercharger posts!! Really!! But...if I were to do this again, I would spring extra bucks for the Shorrocks rather than the less expensive Judson, most especially on the larger bore engines in view of the fact we know the Shorrocks has a "yellow" zone beginning at approx. 7,200 and a "redline" of 7,500. All you'd probably need then for a 6psi boost curve on the larger capacity engine would be a smaller blower pulley. I'd not be surprised if Jon Peck of BCSC hasn't had a few of these... MORE
I agree Bree. We have never talked, but i have been around online groups a long time, and there are always going to be those with a lack of umor. This group is a good iformation group,a nd can be a fun group too, i havemet a few in peson, all nice people. So stick it out Bree. Mark MarkAlanB@... 16263... MORE
LOL, Alan... Not a matter of leisure time at all. When I get interested in something, I really get interested and as a pilot, I know how to "focus", man!! :):) Super/turbo charging IS a project, Alan and it will pay to do your homework in this respect and know the whys and wherefores of what you are getting into before you go there! It did take some time to write it out on the screen but the thoughts took no time at all! They just came pouring out as a product of "BTDT" in terms of supercharging and... MORE
Yes and no, Alan! Don't you love answers like that...clear as mud! Both Shorrocks and Judson are vane type blowers but, the Judson's vanes run an interference fit within the blower's bore as opposed to the Shorrocks who's vanes run just clear of the bore. While the Judson's bearings are self- contained and do not require oiling, it's vanes do considering their interference fit with the blower's bore. Thus, a "total loss" oil system is employed with it's own discrete oil supply to provide lubrication in this respect, which results in oil being ingested into the combustion process diluting... MORE
funny you should say dirty points as we had a storm the other night and the engine had just gone back in the car so i covered it with a tarpaulin but the wind blew it off and in the morning the distributor was full of water a s the cap was left off, i just gave it a quick wipe down.=0D =0D You can feel it through the accelarator, do you think the engine mounts=0D might need tightening or replacing now they have been disturbed? =0D Something I noticed was the vacuum unit on top of the distributor... MORE
You can feel it through the accelarator, do you think the engine mounts might need tightening or replacing now they have been disturbed?=0D Something I noticed was the vacuum unit on top of the distributor had come loose.=0D =0D No I definitely cleaned all in the clutch and it was a complete 3 piece new=0D clutch. =0D =0D did you disconnect the=0D propshaft at the axle end when you took the engine =0D out? they always say you should mark it so you replace it the same way =0D (personally, I can't see why this should be, as the... MORE
No I definitely cleaned all in the clutch and it was a complete 3 piece new clutch.=0D =0D did you disconnect the propshaft at the axle end when you took the engine=0D out? they always say you should mark it so you replace it the same way=0D (personally, I can't see why this should be, as the thing wouldn't have bee n=0D balanced on the car in the first place)=0D David=0D "geojon" 16162... MORE
The bugeye I just recently purchased for $1,350 runs great, decent body with only little interior work needed. I have already stripped it down to do a full restore. The car only has very little rust so keeping it full metal (not bondo) will not be too pricey. The engine and transmission are also in great shape, just needs some cleaning/painting. The interior needs new carpet and some paneling. Even looking at "new" interior kits and everything I meantioned, I won't be spending anywhere near the $13,000 price range for my restore. Seems a bit high. livelovegolf2@... 16169... MORE
Hmm- The local Volvo pre-owned lot had a 1959 restored Bugeye in Leaf Green (new Black Interior) for sale here last year. Car was totally restored, new paint and rust-free. Floors and undercarriage were solid. Had a retractable antenna in the trunk and new tires, new rubber and painted wire wheels in excellent condition. The windshield was new and frame in excellent used condition as was the grille and other chrome. The top and tonneau were new along with used side curtains in excellent condition. Everything was in excellent shape. The original engine was freshly rebuilt and ran strongly.... MORE
Hi all, well i have finished, its all back together and working. New clutch, radiator, gaskets, nuts, bolts, washers, nicely painted block and head in green, all ancillaries cleaned and painted, fully serviced engine, thermostat, new engine mountings........ ..... ..........do I need to go on. Ten day since the clutch went and all is back to normal, except the rev counter won't work now!!!! any ideas Jon "geojon" 16114... MORE
Just to let everyone having a bit of trouble with their clutch. This weekend I had to repair the pivot joint where the clutch pedal attaches to the clutch master cylinder pushrod. I got some advice from this list and found the joint worn pretty bad a while back and just installed pieces of tubing to "bush" it until I could get it repaired better this weekend. What I did was to bend a new peice of steel into the "U" shape the pushrod has and drill the bolt holes 1/4 inch farther out. (The "U" is now 1/4... MORE
Jon, The manuals always say to mark the clutch cover (pressure plate) so that you can replace it in the same relative position. This is so as to retain the accurate balance on the flywheel. However a) you are putting a new cover on and b) modern day clutch units are manufacture to close tollerances and are well balanced anyway so won't upset the flywheel balance. So don't worry about it. Reassemble but do use a clutch centering tool of some sort to accuratly align the driven plate as you tighten the 6 clutch set screws. Guy "Guy Weller"... MORE
Well I took engine out on Saturday and guess what? Thats right the thrust bearing had shattered everywhere. Bought new Borg and Beck clutch from Moss Europe in Derby (UK). Engine still out as I am repainting it and a few other little jobs while I have the opportunity of it being out the car. "geojon" 16007... MORE
whether the It shows that you can fit anysize and that you may have to change to a different profile of tire in order to get the tire in the wheel well and that they also can be used to increase the rubber on the road. Since I have a MK I, I do not notice the "flex" of the sidewalls because my car rides like a tank anyway. But with the wider tires it does stick to the road very well and we have some scenic highways that were made for model A's and are very very winding,... MORE
thanks for all the feedback guys..... I was really thinking about 14's from a handling perspective more than anything but it sounds like the best option is to stick with the 13's and go 1 or perhaps 2 sizes wider on the tyres. I know from experience with MR2's that larger wheel/lower profile tyres give a much less compliant ride and ultimately adversly affects the handling in the end. you pays your money ... i guess! cheers, Neil '75 Midget "Neil Rouse" 15948... MORE
It could also be a hydraulic problem, either master or slave cylinder. What's the clutch fluid level like? Does the slave cylinder pushrod operate when the pedal is pressed? If it is the release bearing then roller release bearings are available from www.petermayengineering.co.uk. Don't be tempted to just replace the release bearing, to not do the whole clutch is a false economy. "Jeremy Cogman" 15942... MORE
My Austin Healey Sprite has blown its clutch i think. What happened is my wife pressed the clutch in and it went to the floor and she couldn't select gears. When I got there the pedal had come back up but the bite was right at the floor and the only gear i could get was reverse. Any ideas? someone told me it sounds like the release bearing. By the way it is a 1967 1275 MKIV Sprite. Jon "oscarsprite" 15939... MORE
road racing series in Australia. They are produced by MG-Rover, which is *not* owned by anyone else - it is an independent. The engine is one of the Rhonda engines (K-series) and is a nice little unit. OK, so it is different from the B and the Midget, so what. The MGA crowd *still* assert that the last *real* MG was the MGA (they hate the B and ignore the Midget), the T-series folk say that MG lost the plot with the A. B owners ignore the modern Midgets and the original midget owners pretend the modern "BMC" Midget... MORE
