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that has reminded me - when you get new tires (or tyres) fitted to wire wheels, make sure they have the correct adaptors for fitting centre-lock wheels on their balancing machine - a lot of them make the wheel seat on the exposed part of the spokes where they stick through the hub. This isn't necessarily a flat true surface perpendicular to the wheel's axis, so it can make it look like the wheel isn't true. Regards David "David Jacobs" 22119... MORE
I would try and isolate the sound a bit more, best done by driving. When you say the vibration occurs above 2500rpm, is that the same for all gears, or is it realy related to road speed? In other words, does it relate to engine speed, as you suggest, or to road speed? Get up to "vibrating speed" and try shifting into neutral. If the noise continues then it is more likely connected with the transmission or running gear than the engine. Can you tell if it is a high speed vibration (prop shft?) or a lower speed related... MORE
Sounds like an invitation to go further out on the limb. I agree about the rubber hoses, and you mention that you had just replaced all of the clutch componenets, and not knowing what the car is, I will assume that it isn't a bugeye(dual master cylinder). There is a rubber valve in some brake master cylinders that holds pressure to the drum brakes. If this was deteriorating, it could keep pressure on the brake line. With it being old, and needing rebuilt, other than the brakes being serriously over tightened, I think it would be in the master... MORE
Bob, Right after I replaced all of the clutch componenets and drive shaft, I took the car out for a drive. I was out about 2 hours and parked it. The next day, I got in, drove a couple of blocks and the brakes locked up. I generally don't trust myself with brakes so, I took it to the mecahnic who has serviced this car for me and the previous owner. He says the MC has been leaking for years but the previous owner wouldn't let him fix it because she was saving up for a Bugeye. Anyway, I'm... MORE
G'day Jack The mechanic's advice is correct. Have the master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless steel. I have no idea what that costs on your side of the pond, but over here is is about $120 AUD = $75 USD. Then you can fit the kit with confidence, and have no more problems for 30,000 miles or more. And even then, you will just need a new kit, as the stainless steel will not rust, and being slightly harder than the rubber seals, it will not have worn. Don't waste your money on a new master cylinder. But after all,... MORE
David, Don't bother pulling the rubber boot, if everything is OK you have to replace it. If it not you have a messy part to play with! Simply leave the car on the ground and have someone rotate the steering wheel from side to side (about 9 to 12 ins). Get hold of the joint with your fingertips, you can feel for worn steering rack joints through the rubber boot of the steering rack with a worn rack producing a 'click' or 'jerk' near the joint. You will feel play if it is worn. The whole joint will seperate... MORE
The 3/4" dual master cylinders come up on ebay every couple of months or so, But they will need rebuilt or sleeved. If you have one now, you could just have it resleeved. The earlier cars used a 7/8" dual master cylinder and are interchangeable. The 7/8" was for drum brakes and the 3/4" was for disc. In going to a 7/8", the petal pressure will be harder. What seems to be the problem with your existing master cylinder/brake system? Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 22043... MORE
Hi all. Among other problems, I have been battling a cutting out problem on my stock '79 Midget 1500. Now after many test starts in the driveway it seems that I now have a getting progressivly worse starting problem: The engine cranks over for what seems to be too long with no sign of firing, then when it tries to fire the enging almost stops dead, like it almost jambs up then cranks again until the same happens. Only does this for 10-15 revolutions of the engine then solonid starts clicking. On just recharged battery.All electrical still operates but... MORE
Does anyone have an idea where I might locate a master cylinder for a 63 Sprite? No luck with Moss or Victoria British. I ordered the rebuild kit but, I'm not sure that it's going to solve the problem. Is it possible to use the master cylinder from an older car? There seems to be plenty of those around. Thanks "austinbud2002" 22032... MORE
There is a company in Kentucky called Rivergate ( http://www.rivergate5speed.com ) that sells a Datsun B210 5-speed transmission conversion kit for midgets. I bought one from these guys and they *really* know what they are doing. I highly recommend you contact these guys and ask them about an engine conversion. If anyone can help you, they can. I have the 5-speed in my 73 Midget and it is WONDERFUL! These vuys race Midgets for a living so they know them inside-out. Good luck! -Tom "tmruwart" 22015... MORE
Hi I have just joined the group and have been working on a '68 Midget since last Sept. Previously I had owed a '55 TF and a '54 TD. Having replaced my top/hood I did not find any instructions other than the recommendation that I have a top shop do it. I would be happy to correspond or talk by phone to relate what I did to get mine to fit right. My hood couldn't be returned if it had any installation holes in it (it did) even though it was 1" too narrow. When I first bought the... MORE
I have a 73 Midget and recently rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rear cylinders, put in new rotors and pads on the front and new shoes in the back. I replaced the flexible brake line in the rear and cleaned *all* the brake lines (inside and out) and the master cylinder. I then proceeded to put in DOT 5 brake fluid. Everything seems to be fine and there are no leaks anywhere in the system. I used a MightyVac to bleed the lines (in the recommended order - twice) but the brakes are still *very* soft -... MORE
What sort of condition is the water in - the water in the radiator, that is. The oil has to be going somewhere. It has to be dripping, or being burnt, or could it be, due to head gasket failure or similar, being forced under pressure into the coolant. You haven't got one of those Star Trek matter transmission thingies in your engine have you? :-) "Roger Stinson" 21885... MORE
G'day all I spent a bit of time last week fixing a Mk IIA Sprite just purchased by Duncan, a new customer. He bought it as he had always wanted a Sprite, and it was love at first sight - pretty Sky Blue, nice paint. Now Duncan is 6'3" tall, and in his early fourties. The Sprite didn't run - flat battery, master cylinder just been rebuilt and brakes/clutch not bled yet, no registration, hadn't been driven for 3 years. So he bought it to me to get it repaired and registered. Well by the time we changed the... MORE
G'day Jason You can remove the gearbox side plate with the engine and box in the car. It helps if you have a hoist, as you really need to do it from below. If you don't have a hoist, just jack it up as far as you can get it, put it on secure axle stands (no, not bricks!) and crawl under with the 7/16" spanner (wrench?) in your hand. Now don't forget to drain the oil first, will you! avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 21870... MORE
Hello Folks Have one question About 3 years ago I had my trans on my 1971 1275 rebuilt. Well about a year later it started to leak oil out around the inspection plate on the passenger side. I do have a new gasket for that but here it comes Is there any way to replace that gasket with the trans still in the car? Thanks to all Jason 1971 MG Midget 1964 MG Midget "Jason Gross" 21846... MORE
The clutch was engaged when the petal was up. Not supposed to do that. Now recall that I had the Brakes and Clutch Repaired in Cincinnati about 5 years ago. All was fine, as good as it gets with the orig. design brakes for many short trips. This included a new Master cyl. and Slave cyl. Well, after posing the question to the "Club List" the best idea was that the relief hole in the master cyl. was plugged not allowing the presser to bleed off thus allowing the slave cyl. to move the pushrod back and engaging the... MORE
If anyone felt the tremmor in the cosmos this past weekend, it was because R. Houston finally worked on his Midget! The SO is out of town so I delved into the Midget. I was going to replace both the clutch master and slave, but in starting to take the master off, I found it was easier to remove the pedal box to do so, along with the brake master, and of course while it was out it needed cleaning and painting, and of course while it was drying the area beneath it needed claning and at least priming...and... MORE
After being unable to play in this forum for some time I have rejoined and am again ready to trade info or whatever on my British obsession. FYI-My particular pain is a 1975 Midget 1500. When purchased nearly 4 years ago only the body showed signs of hope. Hell, it even smelled bad. Today the car has a new interior, engine, tranny, driveshaft, radiator, electronic ignition, rebuilt/replaced hydraulics, front tube shock conversion, electric fan, GM pickup truck alternator and much more. Saturday, I am ditching my wire wheels and replacing them with 5.5 inch wide racing mags (H Production... MORE
G'day Rob and Cap'n In a Bugeye, below the centre of the scuttle, there is a 5/16" UNF stud, about 1" long. There is a hole in the curved top face of the Bugeye dash that locates on this stud, with washer and nut. At each end of the rolled top of the dash is another hole, and they align to holes inside the top front of the door opening. A bolt, washer and nut hold them together. There is no bracket at the sides, like there is on the later dashboards. And there are two flat straps with... MORE
HANDY ENGINEERING CONVERSIONS Ratio of an igloo=E2=80=99s circumference to its diameter: Eskimo Pi 2000 pounds of Chinese soup: Won ton 1 millionth of a mouthwash: 1 microscope Time between slipping on a peel and smacking the pavement: 1 bananosecond Weight an evangelist carries with God: 1 billigram Time it takes to sail 220 yards at 1 nautical mile per hour: Knot-furlong 365.25 days of drinking low-calorie beer because it=E2=80=99s less filling: 1 lite year 16.5 feet in the Twilight Zone: 1 Rod Sterling Half of a large intestine: 1 semicolon 1000 aches: 1 megahurtz Basic unit of laryngitis: 1... MORE
From what I understand, most of the "blunders" we have been grousing about were meant to cut down on manufacturing costs and make assembly line time shorter.....Like the Mercury Capri I had....the driver's side windshield wiper transmission stripped out. Went through all the trouble of removing the dashboard, dropping the steering column, and found that the transmission was too large to fit through ANY of the openings in the dashboard frame. Had to hacksaw through one of the unibody webs to get the damn thing out. David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan... MORE
David That's absolute codswallop. If you want to be a luddite and carry on with 35mm film/neg/tranny then please do so, but please don't chastise digital camera users with expressions like its an 'unknown' quantity. The fact is digital has far less running costs than film, gives you the opportunity of seeing pictures seconds after they were taken, can be output in a variety of media, do not have to be scanned into a computer and quality wise I'd put my Canon D30 digital SLR up against anything you can shoot in 35mm film. You wouldn't get me going... MORE
"....now I'm wondering..." Chris... Bearing in mind Peter C.'s response to you're problem with respect to different tolerances for different valve guide materials, what did the machine shop have to say on "clearances" in terms of the way the job was done initially. Did you "learn" anything in this respect which might reflect on the original job? Did your cam come as a "kit", most especially with respect to valve springs (poundage) to be used with this cam grind utilizing the STOCK rocker ratio? Most likely, according to my mechanic, the best you can hope for out of the... MORE
Jeremy Cogman... Sure...this is true. If I couldn't use my car as a daily driver, I would not own it. I love the BE but it's gotta "work for me" practically speaking. The original worked just fine for me back in the late 50's, early 60's. Not surprising as it was built for the road/ traffic condtions of those times. Today..... in my circumstances, the car would be pretty useless (and dangerous) in it's original mechanical form as a daily driver insofar as modern highway traffic flow is concerned. Thus, were I to keep it original, it would force... MORE
