MAIN

Transmission

 1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |  5  |  6  |  7  |  8  |  9  |  10  |  11  |  12  |  13  |  14  |  15  |  16  |  17  |  18  |  19  |  20  |  21  |  22  |  23  |  24  |  25  |  26  |  27  |  28  |  29  |  30  |  31  |  32  |  33  |  34  |  35  |  36  |  37  |  38  |  39  |  40  |  41 

Previous Page | Next Page

My slave looks like it has the longer style piston. The frustrating thing is not being able to isolate the problem to either Air, Slave function, OR Master cylinder function. I figure it is cheaper (and easier) to rebuild the cyliders and bleed like crazy... to make sure that it is not a hydraulic problem... before I pull the engine again to look for a mechanical problem. Thanks, Brett "Brett LaCroix" 13568... MORE


I have rebuilt and replaced a few slave cylinders on bugeyes. I have noticed a difference in the length of the piston within the slave cylinder. The short pistons work fine while the longer ones do not. As far as bleeding the slave, all I do is drive the car up ramps, fill the M/C, cap off, open bleeder on slave slightly until I can see a drip of fluid, let it drip for about 30 min, keeping M/C full, close bleeder, put cap on M/C and it WORKS. jerriemarc@... 13564... MORE


Thanks David, but that would fall under the subject of "After I pull my engine..." BTW... I did not replace any of the internal clutch parts in the tranny... but they all seemed in very good condition (before I put the trans on the engine)and the throw out bearing lever moved forward and back without any problems. -Brett "Brett LaCroix" 13553... MORE


Hi, Bruce- Now that your unitended run-in with Gerard and Tony is over :):)....the air/fuel mixture is mostly air to begin with, at a ratio of about 13.0 to 14.0 to 1. So, here is always plenty of air getting into the cylinders at all times with very little fuel as you can see. I have been giving this some thought regarding your sudden "stoppage" because I had this happen to me years ago. The engine timing chain "jumped" when a fastener in the front engine plate by the cam sprocket came loose and got caught between the chain... MORE


This should be simple to diagnose... if the pushrod in the slave cylinder is not moving, then you have not succeeded in getting the air out (for whatever reason). If the pushrod moves, but the clutch does not disengage, then the problem is with the clutch (probably disc). Some people mistakely put them in backwards. Are you POSITIVE you assembled the master and clutch cylinders correctly (seals right way around?) Gerard "gerardchateau" 13431... MORE


Only reccomendation I can make is to be sure everything is level and plumb....saves you a bundle of headaches later with mis-alignment of the door panels. OH....and stick with a screw drive is you can....lots quieter operation....Stanley makes good ones....if your after larger doors..Clopay is another excellent make (thats what I had in my last garage)...Insulated steel, they were 16' X 9'....w/3/4 hp openers excellent quality and very durable David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant 79 Sheridan Avenue Albany, NY 12210 "Stevens, David" 13440... MORE


Well Brett, I once put the clutch lever in backwards when assembling the trans. I hope this is not why you are having this trouble. As you pressed the clutch there was no action seen through the hole. The release bearing would slip backwards in the grooves in the lever putting no pressure on the clutch. Pulled the engine and had it back in three hours after realizing what we did wrong. good luck. "Ian & Cathy" 13432... MORE


I am about at the end of my rope with my clutch problem. I just put in a rebuilt master cylinder... inspected my recently rebuilt slave cylider... bled... bled... and rebled my line... The clutch still will not release. Is there something that can be jamming the release bearing so it is not sliding forward? Is there anything you can do, when the slave cylider is off? How much force should be needed to disengauge the clutch? Is there a way to test it from below the car? This is a MAJOR disappointment. Everything else about my car is... MORE


Stanley- I can't speak for the Morriservice kit but the early Rivergate kits did involve some cutting and fettling, however..... These kits get better over time. Rivergate has made improvements galore over time (as they ennumerate on their website) and I am sure Paul has done the same with the Morriservice kit, as well. All are aimed at making the transition just as easy and painless as possible. There is very little these days that has to be done to install these kits. They are pretty much bulletproof, though there will always be a little "fettling" to be done... MORE


Talked with a midget owner (1968)today. He has the datson 5 speed and says it bolted right up to his 1275 engine without modifacation!!! Anyone have any imput on this? "stanley hill" 13409... MORE


Today I jacked the rear end of my Midget as high as I could get it. Squeezing under my car, I see the slave cylinder pointing in a downward direction... the bleeder valve in the back being the highest point... cool! My 5 year old daughter is becoming an expert "press the pedal and hold... now release slow..." helper. Air bubbles gushed out of the slave cylinder... until soon... only pure break fluid would return when the pedal was pressed/bleeder valve cracked open. Out from under the car... press clutch in and hold... transmission in 1st... turn the starter... MORE


Steve, I am actually going to try the opposite... I did have the front end jacked up... but that put the bleed end down hill (I.E. Air bubble rises). I am going to jack up the rear end, pointing the transmission and slave cylindar down, so that the bleed hole is at the top... Fluid flows down, pushing air out. Getting ready for garage sale today... will try it Saturday Afternoon and see if it works. -Brett "Brett LaCroix" 13348... MORE


Last time I had to bleed the clutch, used an Easibleed to get most of the air out of the system. That didn't work, so got a piece of wood and wedged the clutch pedal down and left it down overnight. In theory, this allows the air in the system to rise up and takes advantage of the fact that the master cylinder is way above the slave. This also gave time to go away and think about the problem. By the time I returned the follwing day, theory and fact had met and the clutch has worked fine... MORE


That was a factory modification (I believe) in 1975 with the 1500's. It is a really bad design because when battery acid and byproduct are ignored when spilled, they will find their way to the slave cylinder and furtehr aid in it's destruction. Gerard "gerardchateau" 13306... MORE


Brett, You leave the hose connected, but you remove the bolt(s) which attach the slave to the gearbox. Then you lift the slave up to the same height of the master cylinder- all without detaching the hose. Most Midgets had a long flexible hose which allows you to do this- although it sounds like yours has metal pipes rather than the flexible plastic item? I'm not sure why your hose goes through a small hole near the battery either- this may be a modification or a factory change I've never seen before. It sounds daft in any case. :-)... MORE


Air in the slave sylinder can certainly cause the problem you're having- the slave cylinder moves, but the moment it encounters any resistance (like a clutch plate, for example) the air just compresses. Does your pedal feel 'springy'? The other alternative is mechanical problems- worn clevis pins, a pushrod which is too short, worn pivot in the pedal box can all reduce the amount of available travel. Midget clutch hydraulics are a nightmare to bleed because the slave cylinder is so far below the master cylinder. Your best bet is to buy a Mityvac or similar bleeding device, or... MORE


Andy- Neat conversion! Considering your comments on the stock gearbox, this may be a future candidate for a Datsun 210 5 speed, eh? Nice job, man. And you have a Sparkrite ignition system! These are very rarely seen in US....are you "over here" or "over there"!? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 13300... MORE


Only if you take a grinder to the inside of your bellhousing. I did it once when I mated a 1098 engine with a Mk 1 Midget gearbox to go in a Frogeye. Andy '65 Arkley "Andrew Gibson" 13280... MORE


Brett, Bleeding the clutch is a pain!!! (Slightly understated here). I made mine a little easier, by removing the slave from the tranny, wrapping a couple of heavy rubber bands around it to give some resistance and then holding it higher than the master to bleed it. Needless to say, it was a two person job, but much easier than trying to get the air out from underneath. Brent 76 Daily Driver "Brent Wolf" 13289... MORE


OK... I am confused. This is the second reply telling me to bleed the slave cylinder at the level of the master. But... my master cylindar is in the engine compartment... the hose comes out the back, down through a very small hole next to the battery... down to the tranny and into the slave. Am I supposed to unhook the slave... then hook it up... bleed it.. unhook it again without letting air in it? then reinstall it? Or ??? I am missing something? -Brett '76 problem child "Brett LaCroix" 13292... MORE


Master clutch cylinder seems to work fine... the slave cylinder sounds like it is moving... but pushing in the clutch pedal in isn't disengaging the clutch plate. I rebuilt the slave cylinder myself... Can air in the slave cylinder cause this? Should the bleeder valve be in the top most hole... or does it matter? I thought I put it in just like it was... feeder pipe in the top, bleeder in the bottom... but now that I think of it... air would rise to the top.. The slave cylinder can be removed from the trans while it is... MORE


"Other" grease points? Universal joints (reach front one through transmission grommet) and one on parking brake cable. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 13200... MORE


I am posting this for a friend..that has tried to join this list..and is having problems joining..his need it immediate..so I thought I would post for him. 1975 MG Midget. Clutch was going...so we replaced the clutch. While we had it out of the car...we deicided to pull all the pollution crap in order to get more power. We also rebuilt the SU carb. The car now will not idle under 2000 rpm...has less power than before...and just runs like crap. others have suggested that I buy a Weber carb kit with manifold..air filter...etc for about $500... Before I... MORE


The smoothcase (so called because there are no strengthening ribs in the outer casing) is weakker and has a different, inferior, synchromesh design. Fine for a 948 but struggles to cope with the higher torque levels of biffer engines. "Jeremy Cogman" 13151... MORE


Thanks everyone for the responses. My MK1 Midget is a very late 62 but with the 948 engine and a smooth case so it might have the close ratio box, or can I make that assumption without actually pulling the trans? Don "cowcat_db" 13154... MORE