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Hi, Kelly Brown- Look, the problem is you are dealing with a bad bunch, I am afraid. The gearbox should shift without a problem with no oil in it, and any reputable/mechanic would have checked this immediately after rebuild before installing same in the car. No "real" mechanic would use "force" to get something which should move "naturally"; damage to something is bound to occur in such cases, obviously! Have the rebuilder/installed fix your current problem (make a record of it along with previous problem) and if you have any further problems with the box/installation during the guarantee period,... MORE


VeeEight your Spridget I won an interesting magazine off of eBay (your "beware, you may get screwed in cyberspace" community) the other week. It is a May 1961 issue of Cars, The Automotive Magazine. In it is an article entitled 4 great engine swaps. The most interesting of the 4 was a 270 c.i. 'Vette engine with the automatic powerglide slipped into a Bugeye. It is a 5 page article with about 1 page of text and the rest is 22 photos of the car with close-ups and tech tips. FWIW, he removed the accelerator pedal and made the... MORE


I personally don't feel the need for originality, more HP, better brakes, better handling are all improvements in the true Healey tradition. However, having said that I am glad that other are preserving the cars in their original state. It is preserving an important part of the history of these wonderful little cars. In fact, it is surprising just how nice these cars were to drive in their original state! As for James' assertion: I think this is unkind. I know a couple of diehard concours folk, and they do a lot of the work themselves. What they don't... MORE


I have a 1959 Bugeye (frogeye) that is orig. with 948 cc and non-synco trans. std. drum brakes. Just finished the "Moss" interior, Mini-lite wheels and fresh YELLOW paint. Not fast, just a nice ride in the sun. Bill French Hilton Head, SC PS. Still looking for early sprite sales brochures. frenchww@... 5337... MORE


The worst mechanical job I can think of on a Midget is replacing and re-bleeding the clutch slave cylinder (on an A series car)... Also any job involving a MIG welder and grinder.... J james@... 5301... MORE


Hi Everybody, My name's Martin Peake and I've owned my '71 Austin Sprite since 1982. However, its boy racer LCB exhaust fell apart in the snow of 1986, I went out and bought a Golf GTI and the Sprite's been in a series of garages ever since. A few weeks ago, I decided it was either sort the old thing out, or get rid of it. The body is fairly rotten, and I'm not convinced it's particularly straight anymore, so I've bought a partially-restored shell - all that's original is the transmission tunnel area. There's some welding to be... MORE


Both 948 and 1098 engines have a 4-bolt flywheel fixing, without dowels. The 948 used a 6.25" clutch whereas the 1098 was 7.5" Dave dave_oneill138@... 5257... MORE


We're moving soon (Bigger house smaller garage but room to build a huuuge one) and so I'm sorting out the garage to be packed. I have a collection of flywheels and one of them is a bit of a mystery. It appears to be A-series but only has four holes for connecting to the crankshaft and no provision for dowels. It also has no lightening i.e. the engine side is completely flat. Any thoughts as to what it might be, Minor, A35? If so could it me used for Spridget with the correct machining? I also have a Moss... MORE


Willy I am sure you can have same car different drivers because as you say only one car at a time. As far as damage as long as you don=92t miss a shift or something like that should not hurt the car. Unless you have oversize tire s they will slide before it hurts anything which is what you want in this typ e of event. You need over steer to get the back end out and around the pylons. If it under steers you will be plowing through the cones and not around them. Be prepared for lots... MORE


Mike Agreed - the only valid comparison would be with another car on the same RR on the same day, however throwing out bhp figures gets the conversation going.... Engine spec as follows: - 1380cc A+ 1300 Ital block, 73.5mm Omega forged pistons, EN16T Midget crank, balanced Cooper 'S' rods, ARP rod bolts, modified Midget flywheel lightened and machined to accept 7.5" AP racing clutch, crank & flywheel dynamically balanced, Kent 310 'scatter pattern' camshaft, Kent vernier duplex timing gears, steel centre main strap, Vandervell (Clevite) 'VP' main and big end bearings, baffled sump, modified race cylinder head, 11:1... MORE


Hi John I race a Midget in the FADS Midget Challenge and build my own engines so I know a small amount about these matters. I have yet to hear anyone say anything good about Oselli engines I'm afraid. Certainly none of the racers I know will use them... There are a number of 'good guys' in the race engine business. I hear good things about Peter Burgess and I know that Peter May engines are good (having raced against them!). Towards the more expensive end of the scale you have people like Bryan Slark, Richard Longman and MED... MORE


Welcome, new guy! John, I owned a "Vizard" tuned 1275 "over" .060 that gave over 90hp at the rear wheels. In normal daily driving, never had any problem with the axle's or rear ends. I am "smooth" however, no rough stuff. No "banging" clutch's or shifts. The word Oselli conjured up a less than satisfactory impression. I seem to remember Dan Stapleton in his book, referred to having an Oselli lead free head installed on his 1275 when going over to lead-free operation. Performance was well down over the "old" head he had replaced. He was working on the... MORE


Well I finally got my Midget on the road. I fought the clutch problem for several weeks, but perseverance paid off. While it can be driven, I have another problem. The oil pressure starts off around 45 to 50 psi when first started but once it is warmed up it idles at 5 psi and goes to 25 psi when I drive it. I am going to keep it parked until I figure out the problem. I checked the oil over-presurization valve and am using the 20-50 oil and changed the oil filter after only 10 miles to see... MORE


Hi everyone, About six months ago I acquired a 79 Midget that was in danger of rusting away into oblivion. I was going to write a long account of the acquisition and my subsequent trials and tribulations but I'm sure those of you who are veteran spridget lovers can guess most of it already. The main point is that I'm totally in love with the car and nowhere close to giving up on my goal of restoring it to road worthiness. Enough background for now, here's my question: I have to put about 15 drops of oil in my... MORE


This happened to me at a junction,in such a rush to get going, behind the usual dope in a Rover, that I stalled and like you ended up with a jammed starter.Solution : stick it in first gear, jump out and then try to rock the car forward and backward, after a couple of decent shoves loud 'click' and I was back in business, still caught him up (Rover ) and lost him.(doing the legal limit of course), and by the way this was on an upward slope as well, will help if you can take your handbrake off... MORE


Can you push the car up the drive as well as down? Release the pressure between the starter and flywheel usually frees them up. If you can't, brakes on and keep the clutch pressed down (release the pressure imparted from the drive train) and smack the starter motor with a medium sized hammer. To further that method you could take the spark plugs out to relieve pressure from the engine as well (but I've never had to do that - a smack from the universal thumb squasher usually allows them to separate -) ). If you look through previous... MORE


Doug (and all), Watch out going above 6000 rpm. My engine was built by a reputable (race) engine builder, included fully balanced bottom end (inc clutch), and he only took the motor up to 6250odd once it was run in. I seem to remember he recommended a 6000 limit. Having said all that, I know I have over-revved it a few times when having a good blat (inc missed gears, over-euthusiastic overtaking etc). This includes seeing the needle well past the 7000 mark - I am pretty sure it hit the stop at the end of the scale. But... MORE


Hi, Mike: You are the first and only person I know who has one of these! I hear now, the Company is out of business(?) or is it simply up for sale(?). Would you mind telling me something of this "modern Frogeye" such as engine and driveline spec.? What sort of gearbox and rear axle ratio has it? And, of course, your subjective opinion and feeling as to what it is like to drive as compared to, let's say, a regular Frogeye with possibly a stock 1275 or something like that, provided, of course, you've had that sort of... MORE


15 mm?????? The stick is an autobody tool used to bed the seal to the frame and windshield. Not really needed. Windshield installers swear by um. As stated, KY jelly, LOTS of patience and 5 to 6 hands helps alot. Just when I thought 4 hands would do, %%$# seal slipped. Oh, well, that where the patience comes in. "Brent Wolf" 4924... MORE


David, Heard from another source that I would need a 15mm socket for the job, but now I know that is not correct. 7/16, 9/16, and 11/16 are the sizes that will be needed. Thanks to Stuart and James Bilsland for your input. Gary M, you are correct. A check of the latest VB parts book has the windshield stick listed as a separate part from the rubber seal. Pete '78 Midget pskalski@... 4913... MORE


To Da Group and all, Reading all the messages about radios and tunes, I thought back to my problems with my Bugeye many years ago. I built a console out of Mahogany plywood over the tranny tunnel and up to the dash that included switches etc. I wanted to mount a stereo am-fm on the face of the console with speakers on the side. The big problem was, (ofcourse there is always a big problem), the car was a pos ground and all of the radios for sale were neg. ground units. I just insulated the radio from the... MORE


I'll get the KY Jelly as David suggests when tackling the windshield swapout. Sounds like a 15mm socket, elbow grease, and a good deal of patience will also be needed for the project. VB lists a "Windshield Stick" (part#15-276)for the rubber seal. Is it mandatory that I have one of those? Will let you know how it goes, but I'm in no hurry to do it with the good weather here in Central Ohio. Had a good ride into work today. Top down, full tonneau half-opened, a bit of Floyd on the radio, and the usual gambit of stares... MORE


Rick, you had expressed interest in giving Bobby his money back on his car. He will let it go for $1000 instead. Dave found a 100-6 in a barn in Oklahoma this weekend for $2500 so this Midget has got to go. It runs well, 70 lbs of pressure on startup, needs a complete harness and you have to shift SLOWLY into 2nd and 4th. It has a new top and looks pretty good. Pictures are at http://members6.clubphoto.com/brad390912 in the bumperless Midget album. The bumpers are still available as well. Rick, you get first dibs of course. All others,... MORE


Rick, I still have the scabs on my hand from bleeding our clutch. Couldn't get pedal no matter what until I levered back the piston in the slave cylinder to empty it. Out came a heap of air. If starting from scratch now I would bleed the system before installing the slave cylinder - just connect the hose into the slave, tie something into the other end to keep the piston right back, pump the air out of the line with the pedal, close the system, install the slave cylinder. The pro's assured me Midget clutch bleeding was no... MORE


Thankyou, man! "Understand" your set up better and would not ask you to break "confidence"! Didn't know this characteristic of your air/fuel ratio set-up; now understood but certainly good enough for "government work", so to speak. Have dyno available so will go that route. We'll see what October scheds. bring; get back to you on this. Thanks, again, Dave. Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 4708... MORE