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Not sure the meaning of hinge being "sprung" ... Am I being ignorant or is it an Americanism? Regards the cross brace, when I bought mine (71 Sprite) my cross brace had cracked and this was causing my boot (trunk) to stick up in one corner (although I can't remember which). "Stuart Toller" 3744... MORE


Jim Its important that you drink the Guinness AFTER the caliper rebuild and not before. However anyone who has rebuilt a gearbox will know that it is vital to spend at least 4 hours in the pub BEFORE you start - that way when you lose a ball bearing and spring from a gear hub you won't care... (and it WILL happen...) ;o) James "James Bilsland" 3733... MORE


Don't know for sure if it's right, but I replaced the first motion shaft bearing in mine (the later ribcase type) and it still has some play! My brother in law says that there are bearings which are engineered /designed to have play....it might be to prevend the engine vibrations from destroying the bearing / gearbox. Maybe others on the list have the same experience with this particular bearing? BR Eeg. (GAN3) eeg.oberije@... 3553... MORE


Bondo to fill rusted out doors???? Aaach!! Do yourself a favour...if want to go for a decent repair get yourself a cutter and a MIG....Bondo is not really intended for filling holes... For some other things: 1) Do you have an electronic gauge? Normally they're mechanical, the copper "wire" is in fact a tube filled with alcohol or ether or whatever. 4) Remove old fan, definitly use a thermostat! 5) Clutch fluid = brake fluid, DON'T mix DOT4 and 5! Bye, Eeg. (GAN3) eeg.oberije@... 3552... MORE


Hi folks, Finally got around to pulling my 948 engine out of my bugeye to repair a badly leaking rear oil seal. Now I am wondering if it might be my tranny (smoothcase) that might be the culprit. Should there be any play in the first motion shaft. I grabbed hold of the shaft, the end that fits into the engine, and could wiggle it quite a bit. Is there a seal that goes in there somewhere and if so is it a big job?? I am still going to replace the rear seal with a crankshaft oil seal... MORE


we keep Zoe in his place (of course) and I get to "console" her, considering David's eternal removal from "Spritedom". Using a Sprite for conveyance to "tryst"; disgusting (but fun, nontheless; is the Sprite "tuned"? Perhaps a 5 speed conversion? Hmmmm!) :) Cap'n. Bob '61 :{) PilotRob@... 3361... MORE


Oh yes I agree 100% it's better than the standard box but fitting is not easy as all the cars are slightly different. I had problems with slave cylinder / chassis leg clearance and ended up having to put a 3mm spacer under one of the engine mounts and 10mm between the gearbox and it's mount. I have continuing problems with the speedo drive, I ended up getting a right angle drive but am not 100% happy with that. I'd go electronic if I could find someone to build an electronic movement into the original speedo. "Jeremy Cogman" 3266... MORE


I am at my wit's(what little there ever was)end. My 1962 GAN1 948cc engine Midget, with a smoothcase trans, is still leaking oil!! After running, it will drip down the backplate, and leave a nice size puddle. I have pulled the engine three times trying to fix different issues, but now I have exhausted everything that I can think of. I have replaced the oil pan, fuel pump, new oil pump, and replaced the gasket to the backing plate. It has no knocking(pinking), and good oil pressure of 70 psi cold, and 35-40+ warm. The engine does not overheat,... MORE


Hi list, Here're some simple questions concerning my GAN3 (MKII Midget, 1965) resto-project (remember the car is in bits and pieces, engine and gearbox are out). I think most questions are related to "some advice wanted" from experienced people: - Should I replace the spigot bush? How to determine if it's necessary? - How to see if the spring-boxes need attention? Should I open the rear bulk-head to see if the spring-boxes need attention? - How to prevend rust forming between two spot welded pannels? (for example floor to sill seams) - How to prevend rust at the edges... MORE


David, Didn't I tell in one of the first mails? Maybe I should stop drinking then.... It's a GAN3 (1965), 10CC-type engine and ribcase gearbox. The target is to have her running before she turns 40...(so max. 4 years to go...) Eeg. eeg.oberije@... 3207... MORE


Hi list, Just something that just popped-up in my mind yesterday evening.... The haynes manual gives some instructions on replacing the starter ring gear.... Question 1: When should this gear definitly be replaced? How to judge if this is necessary? (If I look at mine, the teeth are a bit rounded, but still there...) Question 2: Should I go the haynes way, and do it myself or should I purchase a refurbished one? Question 3: Should I get the flywheel balanced after replacing the gear? Any other advice, tips & tricks for replacing the ring gear are welcome! Thanks... MORE


48 requests for info!!! Not computer literate enough to do this job justice, I have passed copies of this to PTEGLER and LARRY MILLER since they both offered to post it on websites for me. Not really the sort of thing to put on our own website, although if there is enough interest then "partspub.com" (Tom Stone on this list) could no doubt ship in some UK Ford diffs if needed. Not in it for the money. (Sierra gearbox for 50UK plus shipping???? No WAY to make any money!) "rob thomas" 3045... MORE


When I took mine to Tom Airey (~100hp at the flywheel from a home built 1300, and that's with a standard head ,Result!) I had to sit on the boot to keep it on the rollers. I didn't know whether to laugh or scream! Tom is a great bloke and very good at what he does, I thoroughly recommend him, he's between Alton and Winchester. "Jeremy Cogman" 3052... MORE


Paul I don't want to worry you unduly but as soon as you start tuning engines you move out of totally 'safe' territory. If MG had thought that a 1275 engine could reliably give 100bhp at the flywheel over 100,000 miles then they would have done it... I do recommend RR's for tuned engines. IMHO using a RR is much less of a risk than taking an engine that has not been properly set up and thrashing it down the motorway at 90mph. Ignition and fuelling errors can very quickly lead to vaporised pistons or burnt valves... I cannot... MORE


To All- Coming late on this "thread" as away on company "trip" for the last four days (and survived!! Again!! Amazing!!) I believe completely in RR sessions for "tuned" engines, as long as dyno operator is also a skilled engine tuner. There are dyno operators who know how to run a dyno, who are NOT tuners!! Beware the dyno operator who cannot seem to figure out why your mixture "drys out" under load/high rpm when fuel jets are known to definitely be in the "ball park"; such is a dead giveaway to a dyno operator who is NOT a... MORE


Bob A dynamometer is usually taken to be the machine which you strap your engine into to take the flywheel bhp reading (i.e. engine out of the car) They tend to be more accurate than rolling roads which introduce losses via transmission friction and tyre slip... Most rolling roads work on the driving wheels only (i.e. rear for a Midget front for a Mini) There are however some around which work on all 4 wheels for 4WD cars. Front wheels rolling on a Midget is not necessary to tune the engine! Rolling roads can introduce severe strains on an... MORE


I have a '59 bugeye (frogeye) Sprite and have been unable to locate a source, supplier, for the original type floor covering that goes over the transmission / driveshaft hump. If anyone knows of a retailer please advise. Bill French Hilton Head, SC USA frenchww@... 2956... MORE


How often does everyone change the oil, etc. in their cars. I drive my bugeye about 2000 mile per year at most, so obviously changing once every 3000 miles isn't enough. I last changed the oil about 5 months (400 miles ago - had apart for a couple of months redoing the interior) and it still looks very clean. When I changed the oil I also adjusted the points, timing, carburetors, and valves, and changed the oil in the transmission in the rear end (I just got the car in December). Give limited driving, how often should all of... MORE


ok - so I've just finished my 500 mile running in and I'm just changing the oil when disaster strikes (i think) ... the plastic dip stick tube has come away from the block and it looks like it has snapped off inside the engine. Does anyone know how long the dip stick tube is supposed to be on a 1098? I imagine the other half of the tube has dropped into the sump somewhere but I'm not that keen on breaking all the oil seals on my newly reconditioned engine. What really bugs me is that the tube... MORE


Mike I've never had any problem with roller rockers - but I'll keep my eyes open... I assume you were using stainless race valves? Also what make roller rockers? I use Titan 1.3 and 1.5 ratio rockers. Regards James "James Bilsland" 2678... MORE


All, thanks for all the suggestions ... only just replaced all the gearbox stuff - previous owner had put the clutch in back to front so it was one of the first things I did. The timing chain is part of the rebuild so that should be ok. Gearbox mounts look sound. Oil cooler sounds tempting but that would delay getting the car back on the road and I'm itching to drive the thing. Fitted a new clutch slave cylinder only a couple of months ago so that should be ok. Radiator and hoses & thermostat are all new.... MORE


Peter It rather depends on what cam you are running. Piper cams generally like 1.3 ratio roller rockers. Kent cams generally get on well with 1.5 ratio roller rockers. If you have a standard cam you can benefit fron 1.5 ratio rockers. Roller rockers give no more power than similar ratio non-roller rockers. What they do is prevent you wearing out your valve guides with race/high lift cams too quickly(they prevent too much 'side load' on the valves). Don't bother with Rimflo valves - they are expensive and only really worth it on a standard head/valve size motor sport... MORE


Mark Did the first few years of Midget ownership with 1098 engines - not a problem... Have a go at the following: - 1. New clutch and release bearing 2. As you suggest 1275 oil filter housing & new engine mounts (also new gearbox mounts maybe?) 3. Replace the (single chain) camshaft timing set up with a 1275 duplex set up 4. Check/flush the radiator 5. Replace the thermostat 6. Check/replace the radiator hoses 7. Check/replace/fit an oil cooler and hoses 8. New spark plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm etc etc... You can go with running in oil - I never... MORE


Right Hi Chaps, I'm back on the road. Well after all the "trials and tribulations" I have, with the help of a very good friend taken the head off my engine...........remember the "new 1330"..........and replaced the head gasket............it had blown, between 2 & 3, just as we thought. Probaly due to my negligence in not tightening the head bolts after the engine had been run for the first time and got up to temperature..........ah well you live and learn. Why would the bloody thing not start?.......Well we just do not know, but, we also stripped the carburettor down and... MORE


Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. anticlockwise. Haynes: This is a snug fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: This is a tight fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Pry... Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into... Haynes: Undo... Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size). Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: PINGGGG... MORE