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David, although I agree with your diagnosis I do not agree with your pessimistic view! Yes, if it is driven like this then severe damage can occur, but except when depressing the clutch there is now forward and aft thrust on the crank, and the engine will run "true" without any nasty metallic contacts! I have done it! That being so, it is not a risk worth taking. As for replacing the thrust washers, it is an easy job with the engine in place. They cannot be pinned but can be lock-tighted which is a good alternative on non-race... MORE
Brent, I would check 2 things before anything else. Look closely at the engine mounting rubbers - are they tight and in reasonable condition? Secondly try a pry-bar behind the crank pulley to check if there is play in the crankshaft. It sounds to me as if the crank thrust bearings have dropped out. If this has happened it could give the vibration problem that you mention. They are not difficult to replace with the engine in situ ( although I don't know if the mod for pin-ing in place can be done) I always used to put mine... MORE
Bob, Being curious as I am . . . why would the gearbox not have lubrication? Thought it was just a box filled with oil. Don "Don May" 19365... MORE
David, Nope, there is no movement of the crank. That is one of the first things I thought of. I have checked everything that I could think of aside from pulling the engine. The noise lasted about 30 seconds. Everything seems to be fine. No crank movement. All that I notice is a slight vibration. And this is not really noticable unless you have your hand on the stick and are used to the car. Thanks Brent "wolfbj " 19327... MORE
Hmmm... Consider driveshaft disconnect post reinstated....otherwise gearbox will run without lubrication unless you can tow it "backwards" with rear wheels off ground. And....warm congrats on purchase of '74 RWA Midget....had one of these.... nothing wrong with wind-up windows and a top attached to the car that quickly "erects" on a daily driver....quick erections are good in any case of course. Do not stow top when wet...this will avoid "shrinkage" which is a bad thing, also in any case. :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19341... MORE
It should just be a bolt in swap, But use the 71 parts where you can. I'm not sure which rear motor plate you have, but use the one from the 71, The early models were pressed metal and very thin. The increased housepower will brake the thinner one. The 1275 uses a different clutch, pressure plate, and T/O bearing. Bob, Portland, OR 60 Bugeye with a 69 engine, transmission, .... "Robert Webb " 19319... MORE
David C. As far as your's truly is concerned, certain Midgets came factory equipped with the same engine/gearbox combo that powered certain other LBC's produced by the same Company. 1500's are therefore, truly Spridgets..... "later" Spridgets, though they may be! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19329... MORE
Midget 1500 - OK, had the dreaded sound of the fan hitting the radiator the other day as I pulled up to a stop light. Lasted about 30 seconds (long enough for me to get the Midget stopped). Searched and searched for signs of anything hitting anything. Nothing. I have heard that this is an indication of a clutch problem, Has anyone experience this? Now I have a slight vibration through the drivetrain. Question - Should I be expecting a catistrophic(sp) failure of the clutch real soon, or should I be able to drive it a while yet? And... MORE
Does anyone know what would be required to put the engine and transmission from a 1971 Midget into a 1964 Sprite? Is it just a straight forward swap? Other than being a new engine and tranny, would there be any other benefits, like syncro'd first gear or anything? Thanks. Bruce "priorb1 " 19301... MORE
Went and did it. Just bought a 74 RWA. We all know owning a 74 rwa is more important than clothes, shoes and all that other stuff. So what if I will look like a homeless person driving a sport car. Problem now is getting it home. Had hoped to get it started and running enough to drive the 47 miles home but the reason it had set for a year is because the starter died and I did confirm that it is dead not just a sticking pinion gear. All the smog stuff is still on it or... MORE
Hi all, New to group and the joys of 1974 rwa Midget ownership. Question -brake system seems in good order no obvious leaks from cylinders or pipework. Problem =fluid loss from master cylinder . The car is fitted with a servo in nearside wing ,again with no obvious signs of fluid leaks. Is it possible that the servo is eating the fluid ready to spew out at a later date?Any ideas appreciated. Regards Chris. "Chris Lever" 19289... MORE
Datsun 80hp, down to 65, back up to 80!! There we go...some solid information on which to base a decision...way to go, David C.! :) Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19274... MORE
Stanley Hill... Probably the addition of a different type of polution equipment as Dave C. believes. However, get yourself the proper manuals to check this out or visit a Datsun dealer and get the lowdown on EXACTLY why the 15hp deficit so there are no surprises "after the fact". Maybe they decreased compression ratio (most likely not but you never know, 'til you "know") though more than likely there were "timing" or carb. changes? Just an educated (or maybe uneducated?!:) guess. Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd) '60 Frog PilotRob@... 19261... MORE
According to the id plate on my 1980 datsun 210 the engine is a A14[s].In my chilton book it says this engine is rated at 80hp from 1976to80 but from 79to 82 only65 hp.What did they do to loose this horse power,and how can i get it back?I like the 5 speed gear box but am not convinced an engine swap would be much of a gain. "stanley hill" 19252... MORE
Thanks guys, I'll try the clutch trick. I have to agree with Justbrits, Haynes is not the best place for electrical issues in there normal manual. I do have a re-print of the original Leyland workshop manual on a shelf somewhere in the garage, I must have a look in there. "graham2306 " 19224... MORE
I happen to have a new one sitting here, (190-920)/HD3318Q, and the carbon ring extends a little over an 1/8" above the holder surface.?? I also have a used one here with a small chip out of it, and the carbon ring is about the same too. The Clymer manual (58-79) says "As a matter of good practice, a new release bearing should be installed whenever a new pressure plate assembly is installed." Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb " 19171... MORE
I hope it lasts as long as you need it to. My 2nd post on the subject was supposed to be off list so as not to upset those who feel the stock T/O bearing is a decently designed product. Not looking for an argument from those who feel differently in this respect than I do. I normally get over 100K (easily) on stock motors or the mildly street tuned motors I run and know the vagaries of this T/O brg. design. It was only at about 120K that I've ever had to replace a 1st gear in an... MORE
Sure you are, Don....and smart, too. The biggest PITA about Sprites, MGA's and B's is that damn carbon throw-out bearing and the strain (by design) it puts on the parts and mechanism. In my earlier days, the motor was always being pulled before it's time to replace the goddamn clutch and even as a kid, I was sensitive to mechanicals. You would never find me abusive to the extent I would rev. the motor and "dump" the clutch just to win a drag race. Never happen. That damn carbon throw-out bearing is a PITA though there are listers who... MORE
well over 300,000 miles of in-town driving on its first (and only) clutch. Now, the carbon vs. balls renewable resource argument might be more supportable ;-) Ciao Peter C in snowless WI "Peter C." 19188... MORE
Don May....not so fast keemosabe!! :) "Whenever you pull the motor, replace the clutch" (as a matter of course) is the time-worn LBC addage, Don. Unless you don't mind pulling motors before their time to replace the clutch or clutch parts....then it's a different story. And there are some guys that are all set up to do this in a heartbeat. If you are one of these, the "old addage" doesn't necessarily apply, obviously! A new carbon throw-out bearing goes for not quite $30. For another $10, you can get the "better" roller-type (part #COM715) from MiniManica. And I... MORE
What is acceptable surface wear of the carbon ring in the 1275 clutch bearing? "Check for wear and replace if necessary" is fast becoming a major Haynes manual annoyance. Fine if you know what a new part looks like or if tolerance measurements or are given. . . . not . . .thank you Mr. Haynes. On the one I am "inspecting for wear" the carbon ring extends a little over an 1/8" above the holder surface. Looks about like the height shown in photos in the Moss catalogue. At what point is it normally replaced. I do not... MORE
Bruce.... 1st is traditionally noisey, but it shouldn't be noisier than reverse. Both gears are, of course, not synchronized. The problem is, there is no way from "here" that we can talk "extent" as in "how" noisey, "there"!! :) You need to give your location so that perhaps a lister who lives close by can give you a hand with this....someone experienced who can listen to it and give you a "yay" or "nay". Good rebuilts are going for around $800 more or less and of course, the engine has got to be pulled to install same. And of... MORE
I am looking to buy a 1965 Sprite that has been restored. The car seems to be in good condition: good paint, new interior, engine runs fine. Theres only on concern that I have and I am wondering if anyone has any insite into this. First gear is very noisy. First gear sounds like a lot of cars when they are in reverse. It is a very loud gear type of noise and I worry that this is a bad sign. The rest of the gears are quiet and the transmission otherwise runs fine, even first gears seems to... MORE
I had all but given up on getting my clutch to work and the last thing I tried, that worked, was I adjusted the clutch all the way down, put it in 1st gear, blocked the front wheels, and started it with the clutch depressed. It rocked and rolled back with the engine still running. Dynamo, I think that I would check (re-do it) to make sure that the dynamo was running the same ground as the car, Postive ground or Negitive ground. There are meters that will show if the dynamo/generator is charging, or it could be your... MORE
Help. Due to a number of circumstances my 1275 1971 Midget has been standing in the garage since the dynamo front bracket snapped on the way back from Silvertsone three years ago. I want to get it out, circumstances have improved, my wife wants it back, my daughter wants to experience it. So, what is the best way to free off the stuck clutch? I've tried putting the rear axle on stands, running it at about 2500 rpm in top gear and applying the brakes with the clutch down, but no joy. Am I going to have to take... MORE
