Sprite & MG Midget 1

Keyword(s) = bolt, bushes, pedal

2003-06-16T15:13:40Z

G'day Jeremy
I can supply a "pedal pivot repair kit" (two sintered bronze bushes and a new pivot bolt) for $24 USD including postage.
regards
Colin

"Colin@SpriteParts" < colin@... > 22676

Keyword(s) = bore, bores, material, pistons, sprite, top

2003-06-16T05:27:12Z

I had my MC sleeved with brass but there seems to be a problem the
pistons don't move freely. I know that the bores need to be opened up
a little. How do you know when enough material has been removed? I
planned on using 600 grit wrapped around a dowel with tape to make up
the difference. Also there are two small holes into each bore from
the top are both supposed to be open? Thanks for your help, the 65
Sprite is getting very close to being reborn.
Martyn

"snook32907" < meastwood1@... > 22677

Keyword(s) = NY, bugeye, gear, noise, revs, trans, tunnel

2003-06-16T03:37:01Z

Hi;
I was hoping you will be able to help.
I was out today with my '61 bugeye.
First gear has always been noisy,
today as the revs climbed, the noise became
almost a banging from the rear of the trans tunnel?
Noise disappears when shifting up to 2nd.
thanks
Michael (Iver28)
Rifton, NY.

mcmcsey@... 22680

Keyword(s) = NY

2003-06-16T03:23:37Z

This place is soooooooo quiet tonight........I can hardly keep my eyes
open....
David A. Stevens Jr.
Utilities Engineer II
NYS Office Of General Services
Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant
79 Sheridan Avenue
Albany, NY 12210

"Stevens, David" < david.stevens@... > 22679

Keyword(s) = CT, NJ, NY, PA, factory, hardtop

2003-06-16T01:24:39Z

Just wondering if there is anyone in the NY/NJ/CT/PA area with a
Factory MKII hardtop that would be interested in swapping it for my
Factory MKI hardtop

"george07876" < gas1@... > 22673

Keyword(s) = IL, british, bushes, racers

2003-06-16T00:04:22Z

Jeremy,
A couple of source suggestions for your bushes. Both have on-line ordering and catalog request.
Victoria British
www.victoriabritish.com
or
The Winners Circle
1387 Sloane Ave.
Lakewood, OH 44107
216-222-4666
Of the two, Winners Circle is more likely to be of help. They are primarily racers and can get hold of a lot of stuff that isn't found elsewhere including used.
Hope this provides some clues.
Rob Coxworth
Batavia, IL
1975 Midget (that frustrates the hell out of me)

robbiesg@... 22670

Keyword(s) = NY

2003-06-15T23:44:57Z

sorry George....mine is for a MK-IV
David A. Stevens Jr.
Utilities Engineer II
NYS Office Of General Services
Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant
79 Sheridan Avenue
Albany, NY 12210

"Stevens, David" < david.stevens@... > 22675

Keyword(s) = AL, NY, alloy, bearings, brake, bushings, oil, pedal, pedals, points

2003-06-15T23:42:23Z

Jeremy, et al.
Any good machine shop should be able to make you a set of bushings for your
pedal pivot points. I have made numerous bushings for other applications
out of a porduct called (in the business) Oil-lite (sp)......it is a medium
hardness red brass alloy impregnated with oil. We have used it here at the
plant for years for babbit type bearings on applications much more demanding
than our brake pedals.
Just my tuppence worth.
David A. Stevens Jr.
Utilities Engineer II
NYS Office Of General Services
Sheridan Avenue Steam Plant
79 Sheridan Avenue
Albany, NY 12210

"Stevens, David" < david.stevens@... > 22674

Keyword(s) = UK, bushes, cylinder, master cylinder, pedals, stock

2003-06-15T20:09:04Z

A question for the New World listers.
The bushes for dual master cylinder pedals 2A5564 has been out of stock (in fact absent from price lists) in the UK for over a decade. Do any of the US (or maybe Antipodean) suppliers claim to stock it. There is so much play in my pedals I think the bushes may well have disintegrated by now.
J.

"Jeremy Cogman" < jeremy.cogman@... > 22667

Keyword(s) = racers, springs

2003-06-15T17:41:12Z

They do settle but are still a bit hoppy. I have some orginal springs that I'm going to make a pair out of one of these days.
It's interesting that the racers use softened not stiffened springs.

"Jeremy Cogman" < jeremy.cogman@... > 22665

Keyword(s) = body, leaf, lhd, spring, springs, sprite, stock

2003-06-15T14:09:58Z

Well, John...
You've got a normal Sprite, then. LHD ones develop a list to the
left...theory is
over time, the Unibody structure takes a
"set" and since it is normally the driver's
side which is occupied the most, that's
the way the body can be expected to go.
The "stock" rear springs were too stiff for the car to begin with ...the
10 leaf are
worse in this respect.
You can take the car to a spring shop and
see what they can do for you. I am not
a "spring man" so I do not really know...
but they do.
Removal of leaves, recurving, whatever.
I do not think you will ever get all the
"twist" out of the body. Most of us just
accept it as "normal" for the Sprite and
Spridgets, which it is. But they MAY be
able to "correct" spring height for some
of it.
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)

PilotRob@... 22666

Keyword(s) = 1275, A series, a series, advance, air, cam, combustion, engine, fuel, gas, guide, head, intake, light, manifold, motor, needle, needles, power, spec, spring, stock, temperature, throttle, valve, valves, water

2003-06-15T05:37:40Z

Ken Charles!
You can run heated or unheated. As
David Jacobs states, the MG Metro
runs heated. And as David says, you
can run either way and see which way
is best but, before you do.....
you need to understand the effects of
water manifold heating and why it exists.
It is basically there for economy of operation in light load
driving...like around
town sort of stuff. As David says, heating
the mixture allows for better vaporization
of the fuel. True. This allows for a "leaner"
mixture for more economical operation (better gas mileage) in part
throttle, light
load cirumstances.
Now the makers know that you don't
need "heat" to help vaporize the fuel
at large throttle openings...flow velocity
will do this for you. And of course, excess
heating of the mixture causes a loss of
power in the combustion process when
you put your foot in it to truly "go"!
Heat is fine for economy, not fine for
power. Guess what? The manifold makers
know this!!
So, they calibrate the amount of water
heating the manifold gets, knowing in
advance the temperature drop expected
within the intake manifold as mixture
velocity increases when you put your
foot in it.
End result, a nice economical mixture
for economy of operation puttering around
town at light loads, and basically no heating when you need power, the
temperature drop within the manifold
easily overpowering what heating is being
supplied to the manifold....all carefully
planned for by the makers!
Remember, when velocity increases,
temperature decreases (as does pressure
but, this is not important in this discussion!:)
The trick is, if you use a water heated
manifold, you need a needle calibrated
for a water heated manifold in this
application.
If you use an unheated manifold, you
need a needle calibrated for an unheated
manifold in this application.
The needles will be calibrated the same
around mid-range and higher rpms.
Below this range, the needle for the
heated manifold will be thicker (leaner)
than the needle for the unheated manifold
(which will be thinner for richer 'cause
unheated mixtures have a more difficult
time fully vaporising at low velocities).
Obviously, it can be seen that the water
heated manifold is the way to go, if given
the choice.
Next, I do not know what your HIF6 came
off of so I don't know the needle and air
valve spring it is presently calibrated with.
Assuming your parts man carries the
1.75 conversion for a 1275 A Series, he
should be able to guide you in these
respects. If he carries this conversion
kit for the STOCK engine, you will need
a needle a little more rich than what this
kit comes with, considering your choice
of cam is "up" from stock. You are not
going to bigger valves or having flow
work done on the head so the air valve
spring supplied with a 1.75 conversion
kit for a STOCK 1275 Series A should be about right. If anything, you'll
need one a step more "stiff" I would imagine, so the air valve doesn't
get to fully open 'til the motor reaches
about "redline" wherever that will be
with the cam you select.
BTW, this new redline may be a little higher than with the stock cam?
Good
reason to get the motor "balanced" to
at least street spec., eh?! :):)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)

PilotRob@... 22663

Keyword(s) = 1275, pad, wire

2003-06-15T03:51:08Z

On my 1275 I hooked the steel mesh pad out with a piece of bent wire.
Washed it and the cannister out in petrol, rinsing repeatedly, and stuffed
it back in again.
These cars were made to be simple. They come from an era, long gone
unfortunately, before the "throw away society" was thought of.
Guy

"Guy Weller" < Guy.Weller@... > 22659

Keyword(s) = 1275, cover, pad, pan, rebuild, timing, timing cover

2003-06-15T02:32:51Z

It's full of a coarse steel wool - kind of like a Brillo pad (steel pan
scouring pad) but without the soap 8^)
Difficult to clean thoroughly and effectively I would have thought - I read
somewhere that the best "cleaning" is to cut the canister in half, clear out
the contents (inc. mesh) and weld back up, leaving the can empty! Me , I'm
replacing the whole timing cover complete with new canister on my 1275
rebuild.
Steve

"Steve Clark" < steve@... > 22656

Keyword(s) = cover, oil

2003-06-14T20:40:28Z

Hi, Don....
Gerard once explained what was
in the oil separator. Naturally, I
forgot, of course.
I think a steel mesh
of some sort which in time falls apart but
I never opened the ones on my PO'd Spridgets to find out for myself.
I would ass-u-me, that any time you have
the cover off is a good time to spray out
the internals (whatever the hell they are!)
with Gumout or whatever one cares to
use.
If you find out exactly what's in there, please let me know! :)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)

PilotRob@... 22655