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February 15, 2004
Paul...
No, no. Don't misunderstand. My ONLY
point here is that you might want to
educate yourself to the extent possible
by speaking to more of an expert in
these matters before you make a
decision as we're talking a matter of "gray" here. The end decision is
of
course your's which is as it should be,
as we are talking your time, talents,
money and YOUR car! :)
This is exactly why you should speak to
Paul A about this before you go further.
There may be more to this than initially
meets the eye (which would not be
unusual by a long shot..there usually is).
I've got the Rivergate plate with the
integral seal, so really know nothing about
the "add on" seals, except what I've read
and heard from "others" whose expertise
and knowledge I have no way of checking
or confirming.
I am NOT the authority on this but
as I understand it, machining and welding
to "reform" those parts of the block halves
wherein the crank lies MAY very well be
required to stop this leak completely. Since the leak is small (they all
leak to
some extent, perfectly "normal" with the
scroll seal set-up within), this MAY not
be the case in your case. Paul would know more as he deals in these
matters
on a day to day basis.
Also, unless I miss my guess, micro
polishing of the "tail" of the crank
is required for "suitablility" with the
add-on "real" oil seals.
Now, if it is no problem for you to dis-
assemble and re-assemble what otherwise is a perfectly good motor(?)
(most people would rather not disturb
what is "good" in this respect over what
is considered "normal" with these motors
to one extent or another), then go for it.
Otherwise, were I you, I would
talk to Paul first for first-hand expert
advice before I would DO anything.
'Course...that's just me! :)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
PilotRob@... 29708
Posted on February 15, 2004 06:56 PM
Posted to category(s) Engine (external) | Engine (internal) | Gauges | Lubrication System
