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Sprite 1300? would that be a 1275? Stewart "Ford Prefect" 38037... MORE
I'm running one of the low pressure Purolators on my 1275. It's now about 10 years old, and still works perfectly. Don't know the present price, but ten years ago it was $29 at Advance Auto Parts, so I bought two; the spare is still in the boot. This is the same pump which Mo$$ gets nearly $100 for. "joe blxfstz" 38034... MORE
I have a 76 midget. I have restored it from the ground up. Right now I have tried to replace the rod bearings but can't find any to fit. Victoria Brittish has sent me every one of thiers and none fit. It is a 1500 but the new bearings are too wide to fit. Any help? "marcwb2" 38004... MORE
I have purchased every bearing that Victoria Brittish has and tried them all. None of them fit. The originals are thinner. I have a 76 midget with a 1500. Any suggestions? I have tried to find crossovers but even those don't fit. Help Please !?! "marcwb2" 38003... MORE
Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
This is what has happened to the original numberplate, the rivet holes are still there! but I don't understand the number teaped in afterwards, you would have thought they would have put the original number back but it doesn't seem to relate to any 1275 engine. "Bruce" 38002... MORE
Inline and transverse blocks are not easily interchangeable, it needs some machining work plus the relevant crank, so it's unlikely you've ended up with an MG1300 block. The 12G is probably part of a casting number or something. If the block top face has been machined flat at any time, it will most likely have lost it's original number tag. Mine did, though I've still got it somewhere, albeit slightly chewed up by the milling machine! Regards David "David Jacobs" 37999... MORE
I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
I am just checking through the various numbers on my Midget and don't understand the engine numbers. The head is right, a 12G940 casting, but the engine number is marked as CKM211293S which makes no sense to me and I can't find anything on the net. Assuming it is from another type of car and has been changed out in the past (the logbook lists engine number 1854 as fitted), what is it? Any ideas??? "Bruce" 37992... MORE
Hi Bruce, When you open it up, likely all the internals, rods, crank, pistons, cam, etc., will take standard components. There isn't a whole lot of variation on those parts for fit. You can check rod, crank numbers and sometimes piston numbers, so it's not likely something built by the CIA! Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 37997... MORE
G'day guys No, nothing to do with Ace Ventura. On eBay are a complete set of NOS Ace Mercury wheel caps, optional on early MG Midget, and rarer than rocking horse excrement. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33744&item=7988917546 Go gettem Colin "Colin Dodds" 37984... MORE
I got some racing 13x6s made by Aero for $40 a piece - the good news/bad news was that I had to replace my studs with 7/16" ones so I could run the correct lug nuts (1"). I had to find a dealer willing to call the factory for them. Bart makes some as well, but they were out of them right now. Jackie Cooper "Jackie Cooper" 37976... MORE
Correctomundo, Joe.....2000rpm for 20 mins. or so per Beckers. Jim got the motor built/intalled at APT (not Rivergate as I thought...it's got a Rivergate Datsun 5 spd. though) so no doubt initial (cam) run in has already been accomplished by Mr. Anto n & Co. :) (That was some story about radio installation, BTW....bad day, obviously!) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37974... MORE
Good point, cap'n. I remember reading somewhere that following installation of a new cam it was recommended to run the engine at a fast (2000 rpm) idle for the first few minutes on initial start up. "joe blxfstz" 37966... MORE
Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE
G'day Jim Joe's correct when he says :"A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill" However, these cars were/are designed for light weight synthetic oils. For example, often you will find overhead camshafts running directly in aluminium cylinder heads, with no intervening bearing material. Your car was designed with larger tolerances, and required a heavier grade oil. Rebuilding it doesn't change that. We use a standard mineral based oil (Penrite HPR30 which is 20W60 weight) in both road and race engines, and never have a problem with it. About 12 months ago we... MORE
Hi Everyone, I'm new to the list and happy to have found you guys. I have a 62 Sprite (1098) that is in pretty good, 'hobbyist' level shape that I am trying to bring back to a professional level of quality. I've owned several brit cars over the years - Midgets and Spitfires. This is my first Austin Healey. My sprite looks great at about 10 feet but when you get a little closer, you can see the substandard body work ripples in the back. It has mismatched door releases, and late model seats. Beyond that, it runs good... MORE
Steve, I would try moulding the replacement piece from something like "knead it putty", sets very strong. But as your problem is going to be the strength of the join between the original piece and the putty, I would cut out some small support strips or pieces and attach them with small screws across the original body of the switch and putty. That way its the metal thats bearing the force of levering the switch and not the joining face between the plastic and putty which I don't think will ever be very strong. Cheers, Eriks "Eriks Skinkis" 37934... MORE
A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill, no special oil for break in. For a complete rebuild to factory or better tolerances, I'd think 10W30, but you might prefer 15W50. Since the price of petroleum oil has increased so much, and Mobil 1 is $4/qt at Wal-Mart, I've started running it in everything, Sprite, Caddy, Volvo, lawn mowers, generator. Keeps things simple. An early (500 miles?) oil change might be a good idea, sort of just in case there's something unexpected left in the engine. I once did an instrumented test with... MORE
"...or am I being over-cautious?" I don't know. You like being in the position of the engine quitting suddenly and arbitrarily at any given point in the t ime/space continuum due to fuel starvation??? Gimme a break!!! Replace the damn thing with a modern "electronic" (point-less) solid state pump and move on. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37918... MORE
Any way to get in from behind the seats? Even cutting a hole that could be covered up later? Bob Hi Jim, Have you tried pushing down on the boot lid hard to crush the gasket a bit and release the lock from the hook while pushing the button? Divorce the car? Pa "Robert D. Gardner" 37893... MORE
Yikes! Beware of the revenge of the cars! You just can't trust them to go to an outing so it can meet other cars! Must be shyness! Later, Paul A Hi Jim, Have you tried pushing down on the boot lid hard to crush the gasket a bit and release the lock from the hook while pushing the button? Divorce the car? Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 37889... MORE
Hi Jim, Have you tried pushing down on the boot lid hard to crush the gasket a bit and release the lock from the hook while pushing the button? Divorce the car? Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 37887... MORE
Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE
