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hi all im new here so i thought i would introduce myself. my name is David i live in Georgia . i own a 1970 mg midget that has been modified to race in autocross. it has a 2.8 chevy v6 with 12.1 comp. a solid lift .454 lift cam a edlebrock intake with a holley 390cfm carb and a 175 shot of nitrous. its fun and fast. im goin to rebuild it and put it back on the street (sleeper) . i like everyones pics and comments keep up the good work . "david" 36431... MORE

Don't heat it with a torch. It will never come out then. The washer you see in there holding the piston in is plastic. Put it in a vice, take a drill with a very small bit and CAREFULLY drill a few holes into the plastic washer in a few different places and use a pick to get it out or just drill enough holes until it breaks apart and then carefully take the pieces out taking care not to harm the inside of the cylinder. I have been there before. Once it's out the piston will follow. Good... MORE

1. skip vice, it draws the heat out. Use a cinder block, or something like it to just set it on and heat. Acylene/MAPP gas & Oxy also works well and is hotter. We are talking a large chunk of metal and small rubber seals. 2. or hotter. 3. Or large pliers to pick up while hot and rap against a piece of wood on the ground to knock the piston out. Works great. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 36425... MORE

Well I just went and looked at mine and it appears to have the same, double or single flare connections or the slave cylinder and the clutch master. I assumed it was bubble the same as the brakes. I guess you learn something new every day :) Duncan Duncan Sinclair Tel: 713-582-3422 duncan@... "Duncan Sinclair" 36428... MORE

And before someone comes back with "How do you use the pressure relief to prime the pump when the relief drains to the sump?", you do need to use a tapered end funnel or hose end that fits into the relief seat...whoo, that was close. "Jim" 36411... MORE

I am certain that one of the more mechanical listers will say this is a bad thing to do, but here's what I do in situations like this: 1) put the item in a vise or somehow have it supported so that you don't have to hold it 2) use a propane torch to gently heat up the piston, making the rubber gooey enough to break free 2A) Don't let the rubber catch on fire! WD-40 is flammable, I think, so have a bucket of water or fire extinguisher handy just in case! 3) using heat-resistant gloves and a... MORE

Jens... you mean you have no "indication" of oil pressure or no oil pressure?? Bearings making any rapping ("marbles") sound s?? Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36407... MORE

Jens, I agree with all the above and I might add that if it was running ok with oil pressure and no rattling sounds when put sleep, it should be ok now. The first thing I would do is to make sure if there is pressure or not. I would pull the plugs and add a little squirt of oil to allow the engine to turn over faster, pull coil wire and crank engine for at least 20 to 40 seconds. If no press, pull open an oil line, or pressure valve cap, and crank to see if oil... MORE

I bought what claimed to be a sticker set for a midget, but its obviously for a 1275, as the chassis plate is wrong, it has MG cars written on it not Austin morris like my original and the negative earth warning sticker is wrong, the suplied sticker has 'warning negative earth' witted in black on a silver background, the original one Which I still have as it's still attached to the original nose cone that was repalced is at least twice the size, has red writing and a whole lead more writing on it. The chassis plate does... MORE

Jacques LaClainche is looking for any and all information pertaining to all Series A engines in these respects...948's, 1098's and/or 1275's. He mistakenly contacted me as the "Bob" who has access to this information. Not me so it's gotta be another "Bob" lister?? Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36382... MORE

Glad to hear you have her running again!. 2 thoughts on the clutch...from a fellow 1500 owner: 1) is the clutch plate installed the correct way (there is a stamping that says "this side to engine" or something. It will fit facing either way, but will only truly work when facing the correct way. A local shop did this one to me a while back. 2) On my Midget, there was no obvious sign of an air pocket (clutch hose is semi-transparent), but both slave & master were replaced. It worked, but not quite right, as you describe. I... MORE

Spent yesterday squeek and rattle testing in the feild, My 1500 Midegt has now put another 2 miles on its odometer (first movement it has seen in 16 years).. Found a loose shock boly, a loose wheel bearing and that I had only started the fuel pipe union into the tank and not done it up.. once it was all done it drove reaonably well.. apart form one thing, the clutch is still not working properly.. If you hold it down in 1st, the car gradually creeps off, my suspision is it fluid is leaking past the seals back... MORE

Which engine? Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 36368... MORE

Adam Do you mean the threads on the master cylinder or the threads on the brass connector. The threads on the connector actually looked like they weren't in great condition, but it never leaked there before, so I just screwed them back in. Do you know if the teflon tape will disintegrate over time from contact with the brake fluid?\ Bob rlirwn@... 36323... MORE

An experienced professional classic car restorer here in the UK advises owners to slightly under fill the diff with oil. He says these always leak and since there is nothing to oil lubricate in the axle tubes (the wheel bearings are lubricated with grease when fitted) there is no need to have oil present and a quarter of an inch les oil in the diff will not cause any harm. I have not tried it and take no responsibility if he is wrong but I have had problems with these seals even when new gaskets and O rings are... MORE

I got my resleeved master and clutch slave cylinders for my bugeye back from Whitepost and installed them. When I started to bleed the brakes more fluid came out around the brake line attachment point than came out of the bleeder at the rear brake. I didn't replace all the brake lines and would really prefer not to do that. When I installed the lines I just screwed them into the master cylinder (after cleaning them first with clean brake fluid and drying them). Is there something else that I should have done? Any ideas on what is causing... MORE

Greetings: I have a 1960 Bugeye Sprite which I recently purchased and am going through to make sure everything's up to snuff. Of note is that it has wire knockoff wheels. I took off the rear tires and brake drum to find that oil had leaked into the drums, contaminating the shoes and necessitating their replacement. While the hub has been off, I went ahead and replaced the bearing and I'm just about to the point of buttoning everything back up. I got a new o-ring and paper gasket for the hub as well. As I understand that the... MORE

Sorry - my car is a 60 bugeye with 1098 engine and ribcase gearbox. Bob rlirwn@... 36303... MORE

I pulled off the old slave cylinder and had it resleeved. When I took it off, it was very difficult to remove the upper bolt due to the small amount of room (no room for socket - only turn about one flat at a time) and the fact that the bolt was so long that there was less than 1/8 inch of room between the bolt and the frame when it was all the way unscrewed. I went out and bought a ratcheted box wrench, but I was wondering if anyone had any other tips. Maybe I could use... MORE

Hi Cap'n. Just make your own. Get some of the round ceramic magnets that mosy hardware stores have for sale and with a dab of JB Weld on the plug, you've now got a wonderful magnetic plug! The dif plug has a flat surface, so only needs a drop or so on it and place the magnet on it. Let it harden a few hours and use it. The Brit trans plug has a deep recess, so takes just a little bit more JB, Then put the magnet in the recess, let it set and now you have a... MORE

Likely a 1275 then. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 36266... MORE

The 1098 and 948 have tappet covers. 1275 Doesn't Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 36264... MORE

So then I certainly have a 1275 motor, then? I'd check the number plate on it, but it's been busted off. "vegas_law" 36255... MORE

The 1275 has no tappet covers. Check for that. The oil condensor cover will fit a 948 and 1098 also! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 36257... MORE

That's an oil condenser canister. Found on 1275 engines from stock. Typically hooked up to a PCV valve or to a "Y" connector at the air filters. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 36254... MORE