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Mark, Yup, that is pretty much the way they are. Think of first as only to get you rolling then go to second. First is always noisier but the popping out is a sign it's got wear. Also never sit with your foot on the clutch at a light or such as it doesn't have a real throwout bearing and it will wear out fast. Just use the clutch to put it in gear and get moving. Jon "Jon Paschke" 37465... MORE

I have been watching this thread on brake lines and there appears to be some confusion. There are no braided brake lines. You can get braded brake hoses that go from the brake line to the calipers or wheel cylinders. These have to be flexible to allow them to bend with wheel travel. Brake lines go from the MC to the wheels area. They do not flex. If you are replacing brake lines, buy a complete set of copper/nickel alloy lines from Moss or the usual suppliers. They are the correct length with all fittings attached, bend easily to... MORE

Joe and others.. I understand that keeping the air intake cooler is definatly a good thing. But as I was saying I have heard that keeping the exhaust manifold hot, insulated is a good thing, independant of the fact it helps keep the engine area cooler. Mainly because of gas flow is better at hot temperatures? Or may be its because changing the density of the gas, as it cools down restricts the flow? "gav_newman" 37447... MORE

I've got it on my A series' LCB, but that was mainly to keep exhaust heat away from the carb float bowls before I had a proper heatshield in place. Can't say I noticed anything other than not getting fuel vaporisation. David "David Jacobs" 37441... MORE

New to the Yahoo group, hello and thanks in advance... Has anyone out there had experience with 7 or 8 port cylinder heads? Vizard's guide has a whole 3 paragraphs on the subject, Stapleton has one! I came across an old issue of Retro Cars (May '04) that reviewed A series engine tuning and and turned me onto this option. I've gone to Mini-Spares UK website and priced the unit ($$$- but cheaper than the K-series engine swap, which would be way too hard to do living Stateside). I've viewed Bill Richards Racing website and read about how he... MORE

Just reinstalled the engine in my car this morning, and this worked well: Attach the RH engine mount and bracket to the engine, and the LH engine mount and bracket to the car. Leave all bolts just finger tight until the engine is back in place as you will have to jostle things about. When everything is in place to suit, tighten up all nuts/bolts. If your car is RHD, reverse the procedure. "joe blxfstz" 37363... MORE

Thanks, mitch. Your suggestion worked perfectly. Actually I just used a couple wire ties to hold the tranny up, and the engine slipped right back in - no sweat. (Sorry, Ed). I'd also like to put in a plug for a new-to-me parts supplier. When I had the engine sitting on the floor, I realized I should have ordered a new flywheel ring gear. The usual suspects - Moss, VB, MH are all three day's shipping from me, and I was anxious to get it back together, so I called Gordon at The B-Hive (800-652-4483) in Clemson, SC, just... MORE

1965 Austin-Healey Sprite MK3 The car was restored and put on the road in August of 04, it is rust free and solid. I have made many upgrades and changes. Some of the bigger changes are a Datsun 210 5spd transmission, an 1100cc engine. It has a new shiny black paint job with a new sexy red interior. Includes a few spare parts. It has very few miles on it. This is a fun little car. The top could use a little help and so could the Master cylinder. The car is located in Palm Bay, Florida. Please call... MORE

You know, one is for engine timming and the other is for setting up the air conditioning, but I can't remember which is which. One you can reve the engine by pushing the throtle, and the other you can't, it coughs and dies. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 37346... MORE

Since I have/Drive one of those un-civilised frogeye's, W/5 speed, I will take a stab at two of your questions, the RPM shouldn't be one of them because yesterday I was doing 70 at about 3500 RPM's. Your Oil Pressure sounds ok for a used engine. If during the 16 years it was down, you rebuilt it..... Not good. You might want to check the crankshaft bearings for excessive wear or the crank being oval. My 1275 runs 60-70 at 2-5,000 RPM, 50-60 psi at idle, but mine was rebuilt 1700 miles ago, not just the engine, the whole... MORE

The crank pulley on my 1968 1275 engine has two identical marks, about 10 degrees apart. Which one is correct for ign timing? "joe blxfstz" 37343... MORE

I finally have my 1500 back on the road and am able to drive it agian after 16 years of having it in bits. I have a number of questions, some are 1500 only and some will be relavnt to late 1275. First one, What RPM is 60MPH? My car is alagedly giving 60MPH at 4K RPM in 4th gear, given I was on the motorway keeping up with traffic and overtaking some of it I am not convinced it is reading right! at points it was reading close to 70, others lower than 60, but the revs remained... MORE

G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE

Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE

I use a 1/4" drive, (Breaker Bar), 6" extension, and a 7/16" "crowfoot" with tubing style "C" shape. It is cheap, and puts you above the master cylinder to loosen the fittings. Most places that handle sockets & ratchets should know about them and have them. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 37323... MORE

"we think turbocharging is the way forward" Most likely is, if someone can come up with a "variable" waste gate for both low and high end and a nice, "flat" torque curve.... and have no fear....somebody will!! :):) And of course, intercooling of the charge is a real nice thing to have for obvious reasons. The great thing with supercharging is "immediate" low/mid-range torque for the basically stock street car....in the order of a 40% with a "gentle" (on the motor) 6psi. IOW, (high) revs are not required, which for our 3 main bearing applications is a blessing. A... MORE

I have acquired a set of front cylinders, brake drums, shoes, and hub off an A40 Farina. I'm told these work well on the spridget as they give approx 50% more braking area. Apart from the A40 drums and shoes, what other A40 bits do I use eg wheel cylinder, hubs etc. Can anyone advise on any other reasonably priced front suspension mods? Thanks very much "bensengold48" 37299... MORE

The VIN of this car is just a few digits lower than mine. Just a couple of "issues" - wrong engine color and the rockers are not black, otherwise it is very pretty "Jim" 37288... MORE

I have a 73 midget that is kinda going thru a rolling resto. I am getting ready to pull the motor and go thru it and while I have some downtime I want to work in the engine bay cleaning it up. Doing the engine bay body color is out of the question because I don't know what color the car is going to be changed to. I am looking for some suggestions on what kind of paint to use in the engine bay. I am thinking something that has a Satin Finish to it. If I grind a... MORE

Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE

Interesting thoughts. However, I would think that a SC would provide better bottom end torque and drivability. I was thinking that $3000 is alot of money but later (when a rebuild is required) you could drop the compression ratio and up the boost for serious performance. I'm anxious to hear feedback from people who install the kit before shelling out $3000. trevorwj@... 37266... MORE

Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE

Better off with a proper exust maniaflod allegedly with the 1500. Has yours got an oil cooler?, I have given in to the doom sayers and bought one! out of interest what is your oil pressure at idle? With regars tothe carb, is it leak from the top or bottom of the float chamber? or from the botom of the jet? Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37258... MORE

I have just replaced the head gasket on my 1500cc Midget, so I was quite chuffed to say the least when it turned over after only a few attempts. However I was not so happy when I noticed at lot of petrol was coming from the bottom of the rear float. I have twin SU carbs. I know that this was dripping a tiny amout of petrol before I changed the gasket but it is now flooding out. I realise extra fuel will have got in while I was turing the engine over to set the rocker gaps, but... MORE

Having done this I concour, take the engine out with the gearbox attached.. life is much eaisier this way Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37254... MORE