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The oil going into the combustion chambers will also reduce the apparent octane of the petrol which won't help matters. David "David Jacobs" 33280... MORE
Some bits are interchangeable - tail lights are the same, mirrors are similar, but Midget ones need an extra angled plinth to sit at the correct angle due to the different curvature of the door panel compared to the 'B. Headlamp bezels again are slightly different, but you can generally make B ones fit. Without knowing the spec of your car (North American? UK?) I wouldn't like to comment on the air filter interchangeability. Wiper switch will probably be a two speed for the B and only a single speed for yours but again could be made to fit.... MORE
Stop mucking around and go to a dyno, before you do a head gasket or worse. beckers "beckers" 33268... MORE
"hard starter" Absolutely, Jens. Enough to ruin the engine in very short order. :( That's why my recent previous post was couched in strong terms as in..."get the job done". As little as 4 degrees over- advance can cause combustion temperatures that can burn through the piston crowns in about 10k miles. Ask me how I know :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33269... MORE
Jens....STOP!!! Your chasing yourself in circles here. The variation in cooling temps with the mixture variations, along with appearance of the plugs and most of all, detonation/ pre-ignition (with octane changes thrown in for good measure) suggest the engine is operating on the borderline of self- destruction, in short time. Saving pennies on octane is extremely penny-wise, pound foolish. With a tuned unit utilizing high rpm's a good part of the time, "economzing" on octane can shortly become extremely expensive. Your "tuned" engine is an investment. Feed it a proper and appropriate "nutritional" diet. :):) May I suggest..... ...firstly,... MORE
Jens, If it is SUs then what you describe could be caused by worn throttle spindles. This makes the carbs seem very sensitive to mixture settings. If you richen the settings to compensate at low engine speeds, then at full throttle it will be too rich and will bog down or foul the plugs. If you weaken, then at full manifold depression it will pull in air at the spindle and run too weak, causing it to run hotter Guy "Guy Weller" 33249... MORE
Jens... What color are the plugs after you pull them out after a hard run? They should be chocolate brown (insulators) with the shell tinged carbon (dry) black, assuming "correct" timing, mixture and cooling system in reasonably good shape, etc. And what compression ratio are you running, BTW? On what octane #? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33252... MORE
Jens I told you it was well worn! The other spindle wasn't nearly as bad, but decided to replace the pair of them while I was doing it. Clean the carbs? Nothing more than elbow grease! I washed them down thoroughly several times with turps (kerosense) using an inch paintbrush and changing the turp's when it got too dirty. I then scraped off the gasket material with a stanley blade and rotary wire brush cleaned the gasket surfaces only. The rotary wire brush is too harsh for the soft metal casting surface of the carb itself and leaves scratches... MORE
Thanks Robbie! The carbs are finished - but the engine is yet to go in the engine bay, so I can't test them yet. Don't be so sure on the mistakes - I keep quiet about the real f*** ups I have, and only make them public to amuse dear old Ed who loves those kind of things - so what mistakes did you make? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33200... MORE
Just a note for the archives: If you need to buy hub caps for your Minilite replica wheels (such as Minator brand), the ones from Vicky Brit are plastic and don't fit, and the ones from Moss are metal (I think) and fit well. Just my experience. You will need to buy the MG logo stickers top the hub caps separately from Moss. Steve Steven Michelsen 33194... MORE
Jens I spoke to Burlen this morning as I mentioned and they were very helpful. I've ordered up two spindle kits, two rubber washers and two new AN needles from them. For interest and reference for others going down this route in the future the cost of drilling out the spindle holes in the carb body and putting in inserts for the new spindle is about =A320 GBP + VAT. The new spindle kit (comes with butterfly screws and gaskets) was =A36.87 GBP + VAT and the AN needle =A36.33 + VAT. The moral behind this is to avoid... MORE
Jens I spoke to Burlen this morning as I mentioned and they were very helpful. I've ordered up two spindle kits, two rubber washers and two new AN needles from them. For interest and reference for others going down this route in the future the cost of drilling out the spindle holes in the carb body and putting in inserts for the new spindle is about =A320 GBP + VAT. The new spindle kit (comes with butterfly screws and gaskets) was =A36.87 GBP + VAT and the AN needle =A36.33 + VAT. The moral behind this is to avoid... MORE
brought the frogeye back to life tonight. First time it has started in the last year or so, but for the last 4 years it has only really run once a year to move to a new resting place. However this time it was a bit reluctant to start, and I found no spark so ran a hot wire from the fuse box to the +ve terminal of the coil and it fired up easily then. Interestingly when attempting to rev the engine it really did not want to know, and coughed and spluttered instead, this got better when... MORE
Trevor The needles are fixed not sprung, but I take your point on replacing them - I'm replacing them as a matter of course anyway. I think they're .090" ones, they came in a rebuid kit I bought ages ago, which indcludes all the gaskets, jets, needle and sets and disc/throttle spindle screws. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33170... MORE
Jens Thanks. I think I may have figured out why the needles may have been changed inthe past. On dismantling the front carb this afternoon I discovered that the butterfly spindle was badly worn - and I mean badly lol. It's worn down by about a mil which is a lot. I can only assume the switch to those needles was in some form of compensation for the worn spindle. No wonder the engine had such a lumpy idle which I could never fix no matter how much adjustment I did - with that amount of wear on the... MORE
For the purposes of discussion on subject engine with 1.25" carbs... There are two types of needles.... "fixed" (no jet interference) & (emissions/later cars) "biased" (spring loaded...runs against jet's inner core...) The fixed needle should experience no wear as long as the needle is correctly centered within the jet. Theoretically, they never contact and in this respect, should not wear. The "biased" needle/jet is a contact set-up and thus wears, requiring replacement from time to time. I forget which metal is softer and what wears first (or most, over time/use). The stock jet is always size .90 for the... MORE
G'day Hammondale The recommended torque is 45 ft lbs, then to the next split pin hole. The slight play is most likely due to the hub being worn. As a consequence, the outer bearing races are close together than they should be and the inner races aren't seating properly on the ramps in the inner races. Got that? So why aren't they seating when you tighten the nut? Because the cast iron spacer is holding them apart. The solution is to machine a little off the spacer. You can use a lathe if one is avaailable, or a linisher,... MORE
Robert Thanks, that's interesting. I wonder what it's doing in my twin SU HS2's then ! As they are on a 1275 Midget Mk3! And by the AUD markings on the dashpots they are the correct carbs for that car, ruling out someone simply swopping over some from the 1100. I'll ponder this a bit more, but will probably swop back to the AN needles. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33164... MORE
My book says that the D3 was the std needle in 62-68 MG 1100 (1098 cc) using 2 HS2 carbs. The numbers are as follows: AN D3 1 .089 .089 2 .0855 .085 3 .0827 .083 4 .0807 .081 5 .0787 .080 6 .077 .0794 7 .0753 .0785 8 .074 .0778 9 .073 .0745 10 .072 .0764 11 .071 .0721 12 .070 .075 13 .069 - Bob Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 33161... MORE
Hi guys I was cleaning and reassembling my carb's today and noticed the needle was a D3, yet for normal mixture the standard needle is meant to be a AN. Can anyone shed any light or explain why this needle might be a D3 and not an AN and should I switch back to an AN needle? The engine is not modified in any way. Tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33149... MORE
Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE
Nigel, I don't remember what your car is, But FWIW... I had a similar problem with my Bugeye, My car came disassembled and the fuel tank fiting was not included. By trial and leak, I found that (USA terms) a standard tubing thread, copper compression fitting works. V.B. says that the same fits 65-74, and that the same pipe nut also fits 75-79, so I would assume that this should work in your car. I used copper tubbing from gas tank to carbs, (1 1/2" :() ), which is not stock, but is easier to bend and doesn't rust.... MORE
Hi guys I'm just getting ready to put the fuel tank back on and on inspecting the fuel feed pipe that goes into the tank itself, I noticed it was pretty corroded and on inspection (er read bending) it broke! No big deal I suspected it was corroded beyond service I just wanted it confirmed! The pipe nut on the end look to be pretty serviceable as does the nipple/flare on the end of the pipe. Question - how is that nipple/flare attached to the pipe? Is it brazed on? glued? compression fitting? Can I reuse it or do... MORE
Nige et al I used the same method for removing the 'frozen' piston in the brake calipers. Method clamp the the piston in the caliper half where the banjo fits. Wrap the caliper in a rag with some plced where the disc would be. Cut the rubber hose and apply airline. First mistake using workshop pressure at 6 bar (80psi) the resulting BANG brought all the technicians out of the test cells to see what the h*ll was going on (or off as the case may be). Use reducesd airline pressue for other calipers. The remaining piston can be... MORE
Ok so I've got to the point on my restoration where I wanted today to see if my '72 RWA would fire up. But no, Turns over superb but there just ain't no spark I have a new coil, leads, distributer cap and rota arm, new plugs, starter solonoid and so on Turning the engine over with a plug out place against the block gives no spark. Tracing it all the way back to the coil and just having the coil lead against the block still gives no spark Help please....... The wireing of the low tension is too... MORE
