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Stewart If you're re-fitting the RB's I really see no point (or benefit) of fitting 1275 springs, there's a lot more to the ride height than simply changing the springs. Yes, that's what I mean by 'half wings'. I got away with only fitting the small repair sections to the lower 12 inches of the area behind the rear wheel. I debated at length about whether to fit 'half wings' or the smaller repair sections and decided in the end that the 'inner wings' weren't that bad and as most of the rear wing was in pretty good condition... MORE
The height legislation was to do with the bumpers themselves. The performance/handling is a very good reason to leave them off (it's equivalent to about a 5 bhp increase, considering the improved power to weight ratio!) so a bit of time spent grinding off the front mountings is well worth it, especially since you already have chrome bumper front wings Are your CB wings original BL ones or pattern ones? The arch radius should be the same for both CB and RB cars. As I said earlier, the mountings are slightly different, so you would probably need to lower... MORE
Another yule fool needs an earl pan. We had a coupla leads, but they were 1098 pans, so please keep lookin! Bah humbug! David McCartney Captain Rapture 27859... MORE
G'day Paul I agree with everything Rex said. But after 20 minutes of running at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm and then 10 minutes of silence, I retorque the head and adjust the tappets. And I dump the oil and change the filter right then. There are ALWAYS some metal filings floating around in there, from when the block was re-bored etc, and after 20 minute of running they should all be in the oil by now. I don't want them floating around in the oil and through the bearings for another 500 miles, so I refresh the oil and... MORE
Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE
Don't forget to fill the oil filter bowel and make sure the filter is well and truly soaked before turning the engine over. Alan "Alan" 27850... MORE
Rex, On my race engines, and street engines for that matter, on the first start up, I take several pans of boiling water and fill the radiator and cooling system. It brings the block up to about 150 degrees or so. I have been told by some old drag racing engine builders that 90% of the wear and damage of a first start up is because of the cold parts, with minimum lube, under pressure are rubbing and scraping. Having a hot engine, and up to oil pressure from the first start does wonders for engine life. Oil flows... MORE
Stewart You need to rebuild the 'inner arches' first, then the 'boot luggage extensions' (the bit between the boot floor and outer wing) then finally the outer wing. You'll find that the 'inner arches' butt up to the 'boot luggage extensions'. Incidentaly, are you fitting 'half' outer wings? If not you'll need to because you'll have to take off 'half' the outer wing to be able to get to the 'inner wings'. Regarding the springs - that depends on whether you're re-fitting the RB's, not much point fitting 1275 springs if you're re-fitting RB bumbers. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27840... MORE
Peter... My mechanic packs the oil pump with..... grease!! Same grease he uses when lubricating chassis/suspension grease nipples. He will also turn the engine over with a drill via the distributor drive to ensure oil pressure before the actual start. His "way". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27839... MORE
Rex... What RPM should Paul be looking for to properly break-in the camshaft, sir? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27836... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
for the valve trouble/work imfo group! i'm looking forward to getting my mits on the head and giiving it a good yank after the holidays,..i would do it very soon,and i i love the idea of head work in the kitchen but street parking and engine work do not go well together, so its off to don may (one more chance to back out old friend!) or to my garage were i work..they have promiced me a place behind all of the dead volvo's and the second techs alfa that i can use if needed. i'll let you know... MORE
Now the the engine will start, I am installing the new fuel pump in the next day or so. In between answering MG questions and completely pissing off all females on the planet, the Cap'n indicated there was a "right" way to initially run-in a motor, at least during the first 20 minutes. I'm clueless. Help would be appreciated. Don't want to end up with an expensive boat anchor. Merry Christmas! Paul "dfwip" 27826... MORE
the access is a better if you do the inner bits first, but remember to keep trying the new outer panels in place as you fit each bit to make sure it'll all look ok in the end. Regarding fitting 1275 springs, are you taking the rubber bumpers off? (ideal time to do it, if you are doing bodywork in the rear light area anyway) If so, bear in mind the spring mountings were altered slightly for RB cars so just changing the springs will not lower the car all the way to the 1275's ride height. If you... MORE
LOL, Dave! Guess upset females derail you, eh? :) Thought you would have heard from one of our engine building types by this time regarding the proper way to initially run the engine for proper camshaft break-in. I'll wait along with you! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27827... MORE
Samuel, IMO the time to do your head is when it's wet and cold , can be done indoor s , try the using kitchen !!!!!!!. Then refit it before the sun comes out so you can be driving. I'm assuming you will be grinding in the valves , I didn't realise the old engines were fitted with valve stem seals, I thought that was a more modern innovation. (or are they fitted to 1500s - I only 'know' A series) Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Ahhhh....congrats, Steve! There we go!! Another Dave Tabor motor on the loose! Terrific, eh???! :) Cam surfaces are broken in at much higher rpm than idle. At least something over 2,000 rpm for the initial 20 minutes of running. There are others on this list who are more current and more technically knowledgeable and more proficient than I at this stuff. Like Rex Urban, Frank Clarici & Charles Christ to name a few. This is just a hobby for me, my only area of expertise being getting airplanes safely from point to point!! :) Obviously, valve lash should be... MORE
Hi Cap'n- IT STARTED!!!!!!!!! After ten long, grueling years (ok, I took A LOT of time off...) the motor fired this afternoon. A sweeter sound has not been heard.... You are right. This is a VERY fresh motor. What should I pay attention to with respect to "cam break-in"? Also, I got the clutch going. Most all parts are new or refreshed. Disengages the flywheel nicely. But the pedal effort is VERY light. Is this normal? Also, has anyone measured the "rod travel" one should get at the slave cylinder with a properly working clutch? I would be interested... MORE
Samuel Only you can really answer this question as you're the one with all the information. Are you moving here permanently or temporarily? And if the latter for how long? Is this is financial decision or an emotional one? Do you have anywhere you can store your car in the US while you're here? I think if you're going to be moving here permanently I'd bring it over with you. If for a temporary time period, I'd leave it in the US. Theres two factors here you should consider. Firstly, English roads are not like American ones, and I'm... MORE
yes, it's not too difficult a job; it's even possible to do the valve stem seals (is that what you mean?) with the head still on, though paradoxically it's probably trickier to do that way. There are no particular pitfalls I can think of, just make sure the engine's cold before you loosen anything, get a workshop manual for torqueing the nuts up in the right order, oh, and don't forget to refit the little bypass hose between the head and water pump *before* you screw the head down. Regards David "David Jacobs" 27776... MORE
G'day Paul Here's an idea from Oz. If you use too long a bolt in the flywheel, it can stick out the back and hit the half-moon seal above the rear bearing cap. Could be that the problem is marginal, and it's clearing two of them but hitting the third. If this is the problem, the engine needs to come out. But then, I think you have eliminated so many things now that the engine needs to come out anyway. Then you can remove one piece at a time until you find the culprit. And of course, you will... MORE
ugh,..my prized 62 1098 midget has been diagnosed with a leaking valve seal,...has anybody pulled a head and done the valves?..i'm told its pretty straightforward.. i may enlist old fried Don May to help out with this,..so i would like to have some extra imfo so when we pull the head so can we know what to look for. any wisdom lad and ladies?,..i plan to tackle this after the hollidays and the rains clear up,..i miss driving junior! cheers, happy hollidays. samuel "modernlmi2000" 27772... MORE
Paul, we all got there in the end, It's usually something simple when you can't figure out the problem. I wish I could have been a bit more precise when relating to the similar (mini) engine build problem I had many years ago. All I could remember was a long bolt fouling on something but couldn't remember where. It wasn't the oil filter bracket though. Oh well. Alls well that ends well. Looking on the bright side, you got your clutch working, you didn't have to drop the sump / remove the head or pull the engine out. SPILLUNG... MORE
Congrats, Paul! Good find...way to go. And you have educated us for which I am very appreciative...thank you. There are no "dumb" questions any more than there are "dumb" mistakes....well, maybe failing to lower the landing gear, eh?! :):) Since you never forced the engine to turn beyond where it wanted to stop turning, I doubt you did any real damage. As I understand it, this engine was never really run after it was initially built? Bear in mind the first 20 minutes of so of running need to be done with break-in of the camshaft in mind. Glad... MORE
Trevor- Your "random" thoughts are really good. YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You got me to thinking about the oil filter bracket on the side of the motor. I used new bolts. I pulled the bracket off this morning and the VERY TIP of one bolt showed contact. I knew immediately I had found it. So your thought about "oil" together with the other guys that kept telling me it was a "too big bolt in too small hole" issue solved it. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!! Now the final problem. The bolt that showed the hit was the rearmost bolt. If you remember,... MORE
