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Any body in the uk no of anyone in need of a 1500 engine complete with carbs etc engine had done 50000 miles. ( kent ) regards wes "wesley5060" 31936... MORE
Hi all,any one in the uk no of anyone in need of a 1500 engine complete with box/carbs etc =A3100 ( kent ) engine had done 50000 miles. regards wes "wesley5060" 31935... MORE
Sounds like either a) more suction on the front carb - in which case you need to balance the carbs, adjusting the throttle stop screws of each whilst litening to the induction hiss from each one in turn - or using one of the many crb ballancer kits available or b) You have not got the jets adjusted to the same point on both carbs, allowing the front one to pull more fuel through. The start point is both jets flush with the bridge ( see "cryptic manual" thread ), and then lower both jets by the same amount... MORE
Does anyone know of a better valve cover gasket available than the tradional cork ones? I've heard of reusable silicon ones available for Triumphs. Curt "cfisher1a" 31923... MORE
Hi list, I have huffaker spec 1 1/4" HS2's on my 948 competion motor. When I look in the air rams I see a fountain of un-atomized fuel coming up around the needle of the front carb while running. No fuel is visible when looking in the rear carb. I'm guessing the front float bowl needle is not shutting off and pressure is building up and forcing the fuel in the carb. I have a holley pressure regulater that I think I have adjusted to the minimum pressure (about 1 psi) Is this likely the cause? (I have new... MORE
My reasoning for going with a DCOE is for the following: 1. It was originally fed by a Zenith Stromberg carb for the 1500 midgets. I'm doing a complete restoration on the car, however, between the engine that came with the car (with a thrown rod) and the one I purchased to rebuild, neither came with a carburetor or a distributor. 2. I want to get rid of the zenith stromberg =) The engine is a basic 1500 engine. Stock cam in it, 9:1 compression and .020" overbore from the rebuild. Currently no head porting or anything done to... MORE
Hi 1972 chrome bumper Midget. I suspect that a previous owner has nudged the front and pushed the front bumper back but I have to work out what is disto rted if anything. Can someone please nip out and measure the distance between the top of the front bumper and the curved bit of the grill trim above where the fixing bo lts are. I have 3 cm and 2.5 cm on my car. Also how far in front of the front valance do the bumper fixing 'rods' prot rude. I have 4.8 and 5 cm measured from the... MORE
Guy Weller writes "...but a DCOE will certainly be better than that!" (single Stromberg) Absolutomundorino. That Stromberg with it's autochoke strikes me as a GIANT PITA. Of course, teamed with a catalytic converter mounted in the engine compartment, nothing within stands much of a chance in any event! :):) What a lousy "system". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31900... MORE
Chris Me being me, and being unlike anyone else on here, I'm not going to give you the information you want, but simply ask you why you're thinking of putting on a DCOE in the first place? Is your 1500 a real firebreather needing a lot more air than a standard engine? If it isn't, to be honest, I can't see the point of installing a DCOE on a standard 1500, you won't see hardly any benefit at all until you reach the very highest BHP the engine is putting out. And how often do you actually drive the... MORE
Bob... Larger bowls are of no concern. Pump doesn't care unless the engine is highly tuned and than one can use a higher pressure (output) with a pressure reg. I find the low pressure (LP) Facet (4psi+-) mounted in the rear in place of the SU... works fine without a pressure regulator on SU's. With my PO'd "Vizardized" 1340 (90HP at the rear wheels) I used the HP Facet (6-8psi) with a pressure reg. set to 2.5psi for a 45DCOE. This engine went to 7k and was mostly used between 3500-4000rpm on the highway. It was also capable of... MORE
I used one for a while instead of a standard SU electric pump on my 1275. It worked fine and I can't remember why I changed back, but it was probably something to do with not being able to dismantle the electronic one if ever anything was to go wrong. Incidentally, the Mechspec 'Buy It Now' price of U$70 + 18 shipping seems a bit steep to me - even Mo$$ list a pump for the equivalent of $80. David "David Jacobs" 31863... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Hi Nelson, I have some AC rebuild kits for the mechanical pump. NOS, but who knows how fresh and good they are. Contact me off list if you're interested Another way of going and this is something my Morris friends do but for another reason. The Morris pump is mounted on the firewall in full view of anyone wanting to see it. Some want to have a pristine, all original looking engine bay, but prefer some reliability. So they mount an electronic Facet/Purolator fuel pump near the fuel tank and leave the old pump in the engine compartment with... MORE
I plan to throw out my mechanical fuel pump on my 62 948 engine and replace it with an electronic pump. This pump model on e-bay ( http://tinyurl.com/2l72d ) has been there a number of times but I wonder if it would be a satisfactory substitute for the SU solid state version. Any thoughts? I figure I'd worry about getting mounting brackets later. Nelson "witstock7" 31861... MORE
I can say one thing.. one DCOE on a 1500 is not much point. You should use two!. Second thing, don't bother with the choke on them unless you are firing up in artic conditions all it will do is flood the engine. Last thing don't bother with anything bigger than a 40 DCOE, 45's and 48's are all well and good but all they will achieve is more fuel use and no extra performance. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 31849... MORE
Hi Everyone i have to replace the back brake lines from the back union to the wheel cylinder But I have a problem a couple of fittings are rounded a bit so i cant use a wrench (spanner) on them and i dont want to use vice grips unless i can get new fittings and lines with out buying a complete set from moss. Can any one tell me if the fitting have special threads or can i get them from a reg auto parts store. I have a flare tool (bubble)so i can size the line to fit.... MORE
Dear LBC listers, here is the latest scoop on our second bi-annual get together, BS session and Beer fest! OK, we have had a spy scout out a good location for our get together. It will be this Saturday, May 8th at 11:00am until ????? Bring your own everything, including LBCs, smiles, beer, food, friends etc. Here are the directions... It is the San Dieguito County Park, lower area. We talked to the ranger here, and he indicated that there was no problem with beer and wine. They charge $2 per car. The facilities are grassy and parking is... MORE
Sorry guys - couldn't help myself! avagoodday Colin Follow these 15 simple tests before you decide to have children. . ..or if you already have them I'm sure it'll will bring back fond memories! Test 1 Women: To prepare for maternity, put on a dressing gown and stick a beanbag down the front. Leave it there for 9 months. After 9 months remove 10% of the beans. Men: To prepare for paternity, go to local chemist, tip the contents of your wallet onto the counter and tell the pharmacist to help himself. Then go to the supermarket. Arrange to... MORE
Hi guys, I noticed the other day when driving that when i change gear usually from 2nd-3rd i hear a slight clanging sound from the clutch well i think its the clutch. Clutch release bearing maybe? or.... anyone else got any ideas? Cheers Ben Ben Lawlor 31815... MORE
I have used POR-15 in my front wheel wells and engine compartment and have mixed feelings on it. It has a great shine to it when finished and I liked that aspect. One problem that I had was that as it cured/dried it formed bunches of tiny bubbles on the surface. When I talked to their tech people they said that the humidity must have been too high and that it is sensitive to humidity. They recommended that I sand all the bubbled surfaces with 440 paper and to put on another coat. This happened last fall and I... MORE
Guys: Yes the stuff sets up as hard as a rock. Anytime I have used it I too sanded/blasted the metal back to bare ao not to take any chances. I think the problems may come from application over rusted metal areas, places you can't get all the rust off first. They do give good directions on it's use. Always wear gloves when painting with it, stays on your skin for weeks. And it does break down when exposed to sunlight, so you Must top coat if using in those conditions. I have not used their engine paint yet,but... MORE
I found the source of the wisp of smoke from the starter area to be that the 3 wire connector between the distributer and ignition module (Howard Assoc. of Costa Mesa Ca.) was sometimes shorting against the +12 Volts to the starter (neg. earth set up). It's no longer in a position to short, But I still loose ignition after I start to crank. Think I cooked the ignition box? If so, what would be the hot choice to replace it? Supose a new Lucas sport coil would be a good idea while I'm at it? Cheers, Curt "cfisher1a"... MORE
Hi guys, Very happy to report I now have a good clue to the hard/no start problem on my full race 948 set up. Noticed that after a few seconds of cranking and some coughs while the motor nearly started, the ignition light went out. Pulled a plug and sure enough, Nice spark for a few seconds of cranking, then the ignition light goes out and nothing. on subsequent tried the light goes out immediatly when cranking and no spark at all. After cooling for a while I get the light and spark for a few seconds again. The... MORE
The cloud of smoke problem is gone and we think we have found the cause or at what we did has worked. We decided to have a look at the carbs adjustment and found that the front carb was way out, it was adjusted far too rich and it didnt work properly when pulling the choke- the jet didnt drop. So we adjusted and fine tuned both the carbs and the smoke seem to have dissapeared. But i cant figure out why the carbs should be the cause of such a cloud of smoke at just that point when... MORE
Of course it is possibale, $$$ talks. But then on the other hand, R.P.M. is R.P.M. what is being counted is the number of revolations of the crankshaft and you are trying to go from 4 cyl. to 8. Seems simple, contact a electonic tach manufactor/repair and they can convert from your dist. Most can also provide/convert your existing tach to electronic with the new 8 cylinders and have it in the original "Smiths" gauge. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 31789... MORE
