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Thanx, Chris.... Truck bed liner hits the nail (even better) right on the head. Have a guy not over a couple of miles away who does this work....definitely worth checking this option out...excellent suggestion. :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31393... MORE
Hi everyone I hope some one can help me I have a 75 midget 1500 with a dual master brake cylinder My problem is i can't bleed the rear brakes no fluid will come out i have no problem bleeding the front brakes Could i have a problem with my master cylinder?? or the pressure differential warning actuator?? and Is there any way i can test my problem. If anyone can help me plz post it and if you could email me that would be great Thanks ED "nastyboy089" 31379... MORE
Ed.. 2 years isn't that long for the engine/ drivetrain though this will most likely not be so for the hydraulics. Have a portable FIREX standing by. Assuming the fuel pump is doing it's thing, add as much fresh gasoline as you can. Pull the plugs and using a healthy battery, turn over the motor until the oil pressure comes up. Do this in 5 second spurts over a period of time so as not to abuse the starter motor. Reinstall the plugs and fire it up, running initially gently. Good luck! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31381... MORE
Hi all As discussed in the previous thread my 1500 is totally standard bar the K&N filter, which was fitted and set up by the MGOC on their rolling road. However it has always been a bit hesitant, especially pulling away from cold. I also noticed it yesterday when it was fully warmed up and I was driving along at about 40.Ipressed the pedal down to accelerate and there was a definate hesitation, almost like turbo lag. Naturally I checked under the bonnet to see if some wag had fitted a turbo, but alas not! When I bought the... MORE
James... You may have the airflow balanced but you haven't got the mixture balanced. The twin carb. set-ups are "interdependant". You can actually go full lean on adjusment on one, and very rich on the other and the engine will run on all four cylinders but the plugs will "show"....... exactly as your engine does! Go back to "square one" and use the Colortune (excellent tuning tool) CORRECTLY. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31378... MORE
Because James mentioned the K & N deep rammed filters. I mentioned it to my insurace co as in the event of a major claim, I assume they would consider it an engine mod. The "Sprite" bit was just bragging :) "Gary Lazarus" 31372... MORE
I insure my frogeye through Footman James when I told them about my new 5 speed (Datsun/Rivergate)and anti roll bar they said it didn't affect the premium at all. Gary L 1958 Frogeye 1275cc 5 speed (and double pancake K&N airfilter with "Sprite" written on it) "Gary Lazarus" 31368... MORE
if you fit a *four* branch exhaust, that would be a seriously modified 1275 motor! ;-) Regards David "David Jacobs" 31366... MORE
Terry, ask them! When I was insured through MGOC (Lancaster Ins.) for my 1500, I put in a fast road cam, LCB exhaust, overdrive gearbox and oil cooler. I notified them and they said it made no difference to the premium. Guy "Guy Weller" 31365... MORE
I insure my midget through the MGOC. If I fit a 4 branch exhaust and K&N airfilter does it put up the premium? How much have I got to give for one of these for a 1275 cc 1972 Midget. Anyone got one going in the South East, if so I might just take a run out for it? Thanks Terry "terry.isherwood" 31363... MORE
Hi Terry So what you are talking about fitting is basically a stage 1 tuning kit. My Mini has a stage 1 kit fitted, but it really hasn't made much difference to the insurance premium. About =A310 more per annum or something silly like that. If you do the conversion make sure that you get the right carb needles as well, otherwise it will run horribly rich. Ideally these things need to be set up on a rolling road.............. There are 2 types of K&N filters for the 1275 cars, either 2 separate pancake filters or the deep combined... MORE
If your not in the US and you are talking about the 2TG and 3TG then your looking for a T-50 transmission from a 71-77 Celica. If your in the US then the only problem is that the US 71-77 Celica didn't come with the 2TG. The 74-83 Corolla came with that engine and tranny. Here's some links to help you out http://www.team.net/www/mg/tech/midget/engswapa.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/vehicles/Celica_A2.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Gearboxes.html http://www.toysport.com/ Alan Gram "Alan Gram" 31620... MORE
James, I used to own a series of different Austin 7s - but a good while ago. One in particular was a pretty rare model which I wish I still had! No, not an M-type Midget but quite special, none the less! Guy "Guy Weller" 31314... MORE
James, A couple of points about the fact that lead was not introduced untl mid-30's (and then ommitted again during the war years. The lead does 2 things; 1. It "lubricates" the valve stems. This only became necessary as finer tollerances were introduced and engines ran at higher revs. Not critical for many of the earlier side-valve engines. 2. It reduces pre-ignition. Again much less of a problem on early low-compression engines. I have run an old 750 side valve engine on a mix of petrol and paraffin (kerosene) It was common practice during war year rationing in the... MORE
Sorry to keep this thread going on and on but an interesting (depending on your point of view!) fact is that lead apparently wasn't used in the 20's and 30's anyway. But somehow I doubt that modern unleaded is the same as the 20's stuff....it must have had some sort of additive. Good point re the Metro/Maestro/Montego 1.3 heads, although I would not recommend robbing one off a Mini *evil glares*!! :) A series engines were leaded until '89, so you will be looking for a G plate onwards. Bear in mind you might need to fight Mini, A35... MORE
"Rattle on start-up" Well, sounds like some one has allowed the motor to race upon initial start ("dry" motor) prior to allowing the oil pressure to come up, resulting in pre- mature wear (or damage) to bearings. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31302... MORE
Nah. This is interesting, James... Lead was used as an additive to permit higher compression ratios than were prevalent back in the early part of the last century (omigod......I AM old!!:) It "delayed" the beginning of the combustion process, allowing gasoline to begin to ignite at a higher temperature (allowed for "anti-dieseling" or "run on" as it is more popularly known these days). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31300... MORE
I perceive, David... So when Mark said he was using regular unleaded, he meant "premium" or 95RON? And when he switiched to Shell Optima, (and his engine "appreciated" the change) would I be correct in assuming this would be "super" (2-3 points higher)? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31294... MORE
James... Could not agree more with your take on "properly" going unleaded with respect to cylinder head, etc. I noted you were using "regular unleaded" before switching over to Shell Optimax. As I am in the USA we may be using the same words but with different meanings.... ...do I understand you to mean "regular" (as in low-octane unleaded) or "regular unleaded" as in "normally available at the corner pump" unleaded "hi-test" (aka "premium"). I think your gasoline is shown in RON at the pump "over there" while we utilize PON "over here". But adding about 3 numbers to... MORE
Just to shed some of my personal experience in this area. I had to tackle this area personally in the last week or so. If you follow some of the parts supplier's diagrams you might end up installing this little pesky item backwards. Best advice is, as always, follow your original repair manual. In my case, it's a Sprite Mark I with a 948 engine. If you stop to think for a moment, and ask yourself, what is the logical purpose for this (oil thrower) item? You will soon come to a quick conclusion that its purpose is to... MORE
Strange one this , I suspect it 's not too important. MG book shows concave towards the outside of the engine i.e. Front of car. The Maestro A series 1300 engine shows a slight centre dish concave towards the gear, but the outer rim edge of the thrower is like a normal washer, flat. My Haynes Mini book - (all A series engines) shows the same type of thrower but with an 'F' marked on one side. The 'F' is fitted towards the outside or normally Front of car. i.e. centre concave goes next to the gear. Lindsay Porters... MORE
Hi, Ken... 1275's ran with no exhaust valve seals for better cooling (residual oiling) of the stems. Guess they figured the combustion gasses would be "outbound" in any case instead of "sucking" as in the case of the inlet valve. It would make sense to me to install the oil thrower concave side "in", convex side "out" but I haven't got the manual at hand and haven't built an engine in 20 years so I'll leave this one to another more "current" than I in this respect! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31272... MORE
The gasket set for my 1275 Midget engine came with 4 rubber "boots" which are oil seals for the inlet valve stems. The set also included 5 (!) of the small o-rings which I thought were for teh earlier 1098 motors where they were used on inlet and exhaust. Shouldm I be installing 4 of these o-rings on my exhaust valves in addition to the 4 boots on the inlet guides? The manual is ambiguous. Also, the manual says to install the oil thrower in the timing chest concave side out - then shows a picture of it installed... MORE
P.S. skip the cupro nickel, go with silicone brake fluid and don't drive when the temp is below 32 degrees F or 0 C. No rust and the wheel cylinders last longer. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 31269... MORE
In Alans 72 photo album see LBG FRONT initial prime. The midget now looks worse than this as I've decided to remove all the paint and rust from inside the engine compartment. Did you know that under the battery tray is not painted with a top coat? It gives you a good idea of how we struggle for space in the UK, this photo is AFTER extending the garage to create more room. Alan "Alan" 31221... MORE
