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They just stopped by Placerville on Hwy 50 on their way to Gardnerville Nevada and eventually Wisconsin - or was that Minnesota? This is the cross-country pickup of a 71 Midget from Southern California. They've had a hot-running car, which fits the 100+ weather, but the 14lb cap is holding and, tho it dribbles once stopped, seems to be holding pressure fine. The fancy wide wheels are a bit too wide and the left rear tire has been rubbing, but a service stop in Fairfield on the way across California saw some adjustment for clearance. I wish now I'd... MORE
The ignition switch is giving me problems. It no longer springs back to the on position after starting the engine and the starter doesn't disengage when the switch is manually moved from start to on. I have taken the steering wheel off and am stuck at the plastic cowling surrounding the switch. The turn signal stem won't let me pull out the left 1/2 of the cowling and the right 1/2 seems to be stuck in place also. Any tips on getting the faulty switch out of the column? I also would appreciate any MG parts websites in the... MORE
Don't! If there is water in it you need room for a header - for expansion - and that means all the hoses etc to give proper circulation, and you will be able to run it only for a few moments, and if there is not a header - how much money did you say you want to throw away on an unnecessary rebuild? On the other hand, why not take it apart and have a peek whilst you are there and save all the trouble and aggravation! Just a look inside the rocker cover will give you a... MORE
a friend of mine wanted to test a secondhand Triumph Dolomite engine before buying it, and simply connected top and bottom hose together, and with the temperature gauge connected, just ran it till it showed on the gauge - a minute or two - long enough to see if there were any unusual noises or anything. (the engine was 'mounted' in a supermarket trolley for this test!) This method is simpler if you don't have access to a water supply, but slightly more risky than Cap'n Bob's, as there is nowhere for the expanding coolant to go, so pressure... MORE
I must apologize to those who followed my progress report, just don't have the time nor the room anymore to work on my 67 Sprite. It is a 67 Sprite that is torn down and middle of restoration. It has a lot of body work done already and shouldn't take much to finish. The shell and doors were professionally sandblasted to bare metal. (cost over $400 for just that). Car is apart but well cataloged, small parts in Ziplock bags with labels, bigger parts in categorized plastic bins, shell on a dolly, new VB parts used cost over $600.... MORE
Colin, I agree with you. There is one advantage that I can think of though, and that is that with discs there is less travel to take up between the pads and disc than there is with cylinders and drums. Should give a better and firmer pedal. Seems a long way round though to get this result! Guy "Guy Weller" 23271... MORE
Heh, heh.... Well, Terry.. ......if he's capable of doing his own machining then it's basically his time and not really the money that is at stake. With a proper biasing valve it should work. Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I, too, find the stock brakes pefectly adequate. Wonder what it'll be like when he hits the pedal in the rain? Probably have to crank in a little more bias to the fronts, I would imagine. Which will probably defeat the whole purpose of discs in the back for superior stopping in the dry? Maybe he'll make page... MORE
That reminded me of a funny story my father told me. It seems a fellow had rebuilt a Midget motor and clamped it to some timbers to start it before he installed it in the car. He was doing this in an old house trailer that had a carpet floor (don't ask me why). Every thing was fine until he rev'ed the engine and it tipped over. The flywheel then snagged the carpet and ripped it loose from the floor. The motor ended up wrapped up in the carpet at the door of the trailer. The motor was unharmed... MORE
Don.... Is the water pump is operable and on the engine and belt hooked up? If so, hook up a hose (tape, whatever) and "feed" the motor thru the thermo cover letting it run out the back (block heater outlet) using a normal hose hooked up to a spigot at low flow velocity? And I wouldn't take a chance on a malfunctioning stadt, either. Go stadtless. Otherwise I have no clue since in summer temps., mine warms up virtually in a heartbeat...really. But I don't think this is the critical aspect of it, anyway. You see, without water circulation... MORE
I would like to set up a 1275 engine on a test stand just to start it and check if it is running ok. How many minutes can I safely run it without the radiator connected? Or is that something I should not do. Don "Don May" 23262... MORE
Terry, I am running a narrowed Vega 3.36 posi rearend in my Sprite. It has drum brakes, the emergency brake mechanisms of which are actuated by cables in sleeves as you might expect. I was able to adapt the stock E-brake lever mechanism quite neatly with some fabrication. The stock e-brake linkage on the rear axle was not useful to me. SO... if in the event that your friends disk brake E-brake setup is cable actuated, I can provide details and/or some digital photos. Let me know if needed. Chow. Hamondale "hamondale" 23248... MORE
Hi Guys How can you test that the fuel tank sender unit is working correctly WITHOUT hooking it back up to the fuel tank and connecting it to the battery. Is there a multimeter test that can be done? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23198... MORE
Well....obviously, RBH! And, good to have you baaaak, fully erect of course. Let me know if you want any tips on Corvettes. I know a fellow who works at Sports & Classics building a convertible Sting Ray in their back yard. Does his own engine work, fibreglass and paint... real talented young adult!! Good taste in paint color, too....deep metallic blue with a little purple thrown in..beautiful! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23209... MORE
If anybody has installed a Rivergate in a MK II Sprite, what do you do about the adjustment to the metal shifter housing cover and boot so that it looks fairly original and not "butchered" up. Is there another boot out there that you can recommend? This thing wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. Also, if anybody decides to order one, make sure that you know what size crank is in there or you'll get the wrong seal AND they have to know if your car is RHD or LHD. I didn't tell them and got... MORE
Nigel, Set the multimeter to resistance and connect one lead to the metal flange of the sender unit and one to the wiring spade. As you raise and lower the float there should be a smooth increase and decrease in resistance reading. Sorry, I forget what the normal resistance reading is bit if the resistance reading varies smoothly then the sender unit is most likely fine. If the unit has been sitting for a long time you may have to exercise it some to break up any oxidation on the surface of the wire wound resistance strip inside the... MORE
Hi guys You may have noticed I've been rather quiet regarding posts to the list lately, thats soley because I've been beavering away on the Midget restoration, and making the most of the good weather. I'll bring you up to date on where I am. I'm glad to say that about 90% of the structural welding is now complete and includes two new floorpans, two new inner and outer sills, two new inner footwell side panels, two new lower hinge repair sections and outer covers, two new lower rear inner and outer wing repair sections, localised repairs to both... MORE
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&item=2422578220&category=18308 1980 MG MIDGET - 1500cc - BHU 575V MY PRIDE AND JOY :) ORANGE/RED BLACK CONVERTABLE ROOF. 126,000 MILES ON THE CLOCK. NO TAX OR MOT. DONT WANT TO SEE IT GO, BUT CANT DO THE RESTORATIONS NEEDED. IDEAL FOR MG ENTHUSIAST LOOKING FOR A RESTORATION PROJECT. DOES NOT RUN AT THE MOMENT, BUT WILL DO AFTER A LITTLE WORK. ENGINE IS DIRTY, BUT PARTS ARE FULLY CAPABLE OF WORKING. HASNT BEEN STARTED FOR A WHILE, BATTERY HAS GONE. NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT. BODYWORK HAS BEGAN TO RUST IN SMALL SECTIONS. THIS CAR HAS SO MUCH... MORE
"I'm not well" Oh, yeah you are, Erich!! I love my Series A engine but a Mazda rotary in a Spridget has gotta be a blast in anyone's reality! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23170... MORE
When you operate the starter, do the lights dim? If so check your battery. When the ignition switch contacts failed on another of my cars, I removed the cowl and put a jumper across the two terminals on the back of the switch after looking at the wiring diagram to establish which colours the relevant wires were. (Workshop Manual) Another indicator that the switch is going (although different contacts) is that the engine will miss a few beats, particularly when the engine is pulling, for example up hill, leading to a bit of Kangerooing. This is usually caused by... MORE
hello - I'm new to the group and new to owning a 1978 Miget 1500. My problem is I am not able to get the the engine to turn during a start. I know it's not the starter, I had a new electronic starter installed. I read posts about "jumping" the solenoid and would like to know how to do that. Step by step please, I'm a rookie ( don't laugh ) Also would liek to know how to test and bypass the ignition switch to see if that is the culprit as well. Thanks, Tony AKA A Yank... MORE
The 1098 engines came with a vertical flow radiator. Listening to others on the list the best solution appears to be to have your radiator re-cored. apparently it costs less and is more efficient than buying a new cross flow, and much more efficient than buying as used one, which could come with problems built in, as it were, due to age. (I think I might be able to relate to that one!) I would like toknow where to have it done for my own benefit, for future reference, because the Rad. I have is the original and is... MORE
The radiator in my 60 bugeye needs replacing. I have the original vertical flow radiator. Is this the best choice for replacement? The engine is a 1098, so keeping everything completely original is not an issue. Thanks Bob Irwin rlirwn@... 23155... MORE
I can only suggest that you look on the internet and find out where the most local midgesprite and MG Car Club meetings are (oh yes, the MG owners club too) and go along and have a look at some of the cars. You will probably find enthusiasts who live near to you who would be only too willing to help. All those who I have met over the years have been very friendly/helpful and willing to share their knowledge of these cars with fellow enthusiasts. You do not need to know much - just be willing to learn.... MORE
Good point Bob. These cars have two numbers, a chassis or VIN number (VIN wasn't a term that was used then) which is on the documents and the chassis plate in the engine bay. They also have a body number which is on a tag in the door jamb (where the hinges are) and somewhere else that I can't remember. Nobody has mentioned that the VIN number is NOT the number in the door jams. Bob, Troutdale, OR jeremy.cogman@... 23151... MORE
I forgot to add a 'welcome to the list', Erich. someone on the list can probably help you narrow down the approximate age of your 'new' car with a little bit of detective work, for example, has it got wind-up windows or sidescreens? 948/1098/1275 or 1500 engine? combined brake/clutch master cylinder or separate? single or dual circuit brakes? chrome or rubber bumpers? if chrome, are they wide or narrow? is the hood a packaway type or fastened to the back of the cockpit? and so on. Any single one of these features won't necessarily give the whole story, as... MORE
