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Tom Whats the matter with the engine currently in the Sprite? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27662... MORE
Hi there - A Newbie here. I am wondering - is it possible to fit a 1275cc A series engine block from a Metro into an A.H. Sprite? I assume being an A-Series block it 'should' be possible - but I've head various stories of possible complications. What exactly is involved in performing this transplant? I only ask because a relation has offered me a VERY low mileage Metro (1275cc), with known history for FREE, but I need to act quickly otherwise it will be scrapped!!! Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, T. W. P.S. I... MORE
Gents, If I may contribute. Have had my engine (1500) in and out several times both with and without gearbox attached. Used the same set up each time. My garage has a steel "I" beam across the top to support the story above. I drilled a hole and mounted a heavy "eye" bolt to the beam. Attached a "come-along" and chain to the engine lift points and ripped it right out. The chain is nice as one can achieve any angle of attack by where the come along is attached to the engine chain. I don't believe a steel... MORE
I got the rules for my 1965 MGB. You need so many points, you get points for original engine, running gear, suspension steering rack etc. A heritage shell counts as an original body if it was the same as the old rusty one, minus the rust that is, on the basis that you are replacing like for like and its a valid spare bit. A problem for MK1 MGBs as you can only get MK2 shells. I am sure these rules are on the MGOC or DLVC web sites terry "terry.isherwood" 27676... MORE
Robert As David pointed out, Heritage Shells are treated differently. I think they treat them as a 'repair panel' rather than 'another car', because they have never been registered as a 'car', and as you're transferring more than 70% of the donor car into the Heritage Shell, it still takes on the registration of the donor car. There are guidelines on what constitutes that 70% and I think it includes engine, gearbox, diff etc. amukdigiphoto@... 27648... MORE
Tim I have no direct experience of this, but in my mind, and from what I 'understand' you will definitely devalue your car by selling it's original registration number, no doubt about it. By how much, who knows, but it loses part of its history, and that makes it less desirable. It's a bit like cars that don't have their original engines and have had replacements put in. It doesn't detract some people, but it does make it difficult to get a top notch price if you ever come to sell it, because its not 'original' throughout. Whilst I... MORE
Alan *chuckle* I think you're going to have to do the same as me, hire an engine hoist and put it in that way, I can't see any other way of doing it. Are you rebuilding your engine yourself Alan ? Nigel amukdigiphoto@... 27640... MORE
I thought the 12G295 head was the recommended head for 1000cc a series upg rade. I stand to corrected of course. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
I have listened to all the talk of hoisting the engine out of the car using the ceiling joists in the garage. The typical 2x4 ceiling joist on 24" centers gives a 10 pounds per square foot live load and 5 pound per square foot dead load at a max span of 9' 10" for Southern Pine #2. If you have Eastern or Western SPF it is less. The typical garage is wider than 9' 10" so you are working with much less strength if you have a conventionally framed garage. Engineered wood trusses may be damaged doing this... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto@... [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:23 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Subject: RE: Re: Engine removal Alan *chuckle* I think you're going to have to do the same as me, hire an engine hoist and put it in that way, I can't see any other way of doing it. Are you rebuilding your engine yourself Alan ? Nigel "Duncan Sinclair" 27641... MORE
OK guys need some feed back on the 12G206 casting cylinder head, is it really worth the money for the 948? Per David Vizard it is touted as the best one for BMC A series engines up to 1000 cc has anyone used one and is it worth the price? Marty Cooper Martin Cooper 27630... MORE
I read this this somewhere before, the bit I don't agree with is ..... Recently I heard of another reason that makes a lot of sense, early powered boats used automotive engines and often were simply the engine in the middle of a boat with an extension on the rear of the crankshaft to drive a propeller at the back of the boat. But I say The early engined boats were steam driven , as everybody knows Steam engines run just as fast in either direction . (simple reversing lever on the valve gear) Not withstanding that, the first... MORE
Duncan wrote I did consider hooking up a block from the roof beams in the garage but the better half was terrified I would damage the new roof....Put her foot down about that one :-) Thats how I did it. Removed the bonnet, jacked the car up onto rar ramps at the front . A couple of short ropes around the engine (removed the alternator manifold / carbs and starter first)Used a block and tackle with the load over spead between 3 beams . Took the weight of the engine with the block and tackle then jacked the car... MORE
Chris You just wait till you have to 'pull' an engine, that usually sorts out the boys from the girlies ;) Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27590... MORE
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto: rdgard@... ] Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 11:19 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Re: Engine removal Duncan, You can use the foor beams in your garage, I have done it many times. Just cut a 4x4 beam (two 4x4s) one each that just fits on each side of the car and wedges under the roof beam. Then, the 4x4s take all the load and the garage does not suffer. I have pulled much heavier lumps than a bugeye that way. If you want to test it, block it up and have two people... MORE
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto: rdgard@... ] Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 9:02 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Re: Engine removal My buddy and I used to do it with a long 2X4 and a chain. We would get it all undone, then attach the chain and the board, adjust the length of the chain so we could get on each side of the engine bay, bend our knees, put the 2x4 on our shoulders and stand up, lifting the lump up and forward and out. It can be done. A third person helps to wiggle the lump... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 2:43 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Engine removal "Duncan Sinclair" 27582... MORE
My buddy and I used to do it with a long 2X4 and a chain. We would get it all undone, then attach the chain and the board, adjust the length of the chain so we could get on each side of the engine bay, bend our knees, put the 2x4 on our shoulders and stand up, lifting the lump up and forward and out. It can be done. A third person helps to wiggle the lump around the other bits and help it clear, but it can be done with only two people. I have done it! Cheers,... MORE
Duncan The biggest problem to removing the engine detached from the gearbox (I've decided to stick to British names for car components, If no-one understands me - tough!) is removing the gearbox bolts attaching it to the engine. It's hard enough to remove these with the engine and gearbox out of the car, let alone trying to do it within the confines of an engine bay! It's awkward taking it out with gearbox attached, specially if your front valance and rad are still in position (mine were removed) as it has to come out at a very steep angle... MORE
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
Hi all, I am about to pull out my engine and tranny with a hoist and I know that I can either pull them together as one unit or separately. Any advice on the pros and cons of either method would be appreciated. Thanks Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 27559... MORE
Thanks, David.... I know nothing about the later spring- loaded carbs considering I never used them. Never like the idea of the needle running up against the jet...something about this that goes "against the grain" so to speak, despite the fact they meter fuel more precisely (or so I read). But, if you couldn't measure the wear at 106K, I wonder why they bother talking about it in books? Very strange 'cause that's pretty damn miniscule wear they're talkin' about. :) The latest Spridget I ever owned was a '74 who's engine came with emissions carbs but "fixed" needles.... MORE
Hi Rich... Bob Gardner and Jim Curtice give sound advice in your case however, let's look a little deeper into Jim's advice, after checking the "easier" Bob's advice first, 'cause if he's correct and your throttle cable is hanging up in it's fitting in the heat shield, then the problem is "sol-ved" and we need look no further (maybe!:). The chokes on SU's are mechanical. Gum is not usually strong enough to overpower the mechanical advantage of a cable operated choke, assuming the cable isn't way out of shape, though of course anything is possible. If the butterflies are... MORE
Roger Well as I don't have the correct breathing equipment for two-pack, yeah it got to be cellulose! And yes, I also remember the person saying about lots of thin coats, but he was doing a motorcycle - somewhat smaller than a car! and I don't intend to spend the rest of my life rubbing down a Midget and spraying it! And you're right, its not the best weather for spraying top coats, and yes I've already had some 'blooming' but I have no choice, I have to get it done, I simply cannot afford to wait until the... MORE
G'day Don Slipping clutch could be a sign of worn clutch disk, or insufficent clamping pressure, or both. In my humble opinion, the only people who don't change everything (see below) are those who get their jollies from removing and replacing engines. Everything means: driven plate (disc) pressure plate release bearing bronze bush and bolt at the pivot point of the clutch releases bearing fork crankshaft spigot bush Do it right and you get to do it just once. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 27508... MORE
