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Resistance is a matter of extent. Some is good ("sparkier" spark :)...too much is no good. Remember the old Lucas resistor "caps" fitted to the spark plug end of their stock wire set-up?? Probably before "resistor" spark plugs? Ah-hah. There for a reason. No doubt a compromise between performance and radio "suppression"??? Cap'n Bob '60 Frog '''''' "Robert E. Shlafer" 35607... MORE
I recently had the pleasure of having dinner with Kevin and Cathy Valentine in Pennsylvania. Over dinner we of course discussed Spridgets, and I told him how I was having trouble with mine running rich and was contemplating a change of carburetors. Kevin pointed out that most carb problems are electrical and asked if I had checked the points. Well, I still haven't but I did decide to make them a moot problem by ordering a Pertronix Ignitor. The question is, I replaced the stock coil on my 73 Midget, 1275 last year. Will this coil function well with... MORE
An excellent question, Robert! And you've beaten me to the punch as well!! My old coil went TU 2 months ago and I put a new Crane unit on my 68 - 1275cc Midget. Works great, but now I am looking at electronic ignition for the Beast. Dunno if the Crane will work with something like the Pertronix or other EI systems. Any input gratefully accepted.... Cheers!! Jim - curious in Dodge City Jim Johnson 35579... MORE
Hi Guys, I decided that I do not plan on using my Hardtop for my 73 midget. It need to be cleaned since it sat in a desert for 17 years, the rear plastic window is pretty shot, and the rubber is ugly, but there are no cracks, etc. I have it in storage now, and I would love to have it go for a good cause. If anyone is interested, i can walk to my neighbors house where I have it stored and take photos. I also know of some guy like 5 blocks from my house that... MORE
any midget expert out there know how to obtain electronic or magnetronic (hall effect?)ignition for 1977 1500 midget with lucas 45d4 distributor? i.e. lumenition or similar, mgoc price =A3135.any useful websites? i"m skint after fitting u/leaded head and kingpin assy and clutch slave cylinder so any cheapo ideas would be welcome. thanks in anticipation. "edwardhinchliffe" 35558... MORE
My horns don't work, The car is an early 1500 midget with the horn push in the centre of the steering wheel. The slipring contact is live, but the steering column shaft is not earthed. If I use a wire to connect the slip ring connector to the shaft the horn won't work, however if I jumper it to the outer part of the column it does work. From this I deduce that the shaft is not earthed. How and where should it be earthed? Stewart Weller General Reality Failure : Reboot Universe "Ford Prefect" 35547... MORE
Thanks Paul and Robert for your kind words. Robert, I guess, coming from Texas, you would hardly know what real rust looks like!! Actually, the saga behind this is that I was looking for a car that definately needed lots of work doing. I wanted something that I could rebuild with my son, who was then in his mid teens. We needed the father / son bonding thing and both needed something to keep us off the streets! So we learnt together, how to weld, rebuild an engine and respray. Well, mechanical stuff I was used to, but paint... MORE
Ken, If you use a catch can, and run any hoses up vertically for any distance at all, I don't think you need any baffles. Any oil that pukes out will end up on the sides of the hose and run back down into the crankcase unless there is such a rush of air out of there to carry it into the tank. I think don't worry about it. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 35534... MORE
Apology fully accepted Robert! {;-) Have a Happy 2005! and Ed, the offering and accepting of an apology does not mean that either side has changed their views or somehow "backed down" on the matter in question. It simply means that we do fully respect each other as individuals, with individual rights and beliefs. The fact that I still think that the list is not the place for long non LBC rants such as this has no bearing on my "right" to own my LBC. Short rants, cats, jokes music - it is all good. Its just the long,... MORE
Mitch..IMHO.... if you are going to use the Judson, I would call APT and source the best quality valve they have to offer. Otherwise, unless you've got a hairy cam in there or are running 10.0-1 or a higher static compression ratio, standard quality/design should be fine normally aspirated. About oversized exhaust valves....many moons ago when the first 1275 Cooper S types came out, they went with a larger 1.4 intake valve and subsequently, went to a larger than stock exh.valve to "match", feeling this would give more powe r. It didn't. What it did do was lead to... MORE
G'day Guy Many cars in the BMC range had a common bolt pattern for the front brake backing plates. Not too surprising when you think they could have been drawn up by the same designer or draftsman. Larger cars had (wait for it) larger brakes. Disc brakes were quite rare and, in the 1950's and early 1960's, only used on expensive up-market cars, such as Jaguar. The Austin A40 Farina had 8" drum brakes, deemed necessary to slow down it's heavier sedan body shell. The Morris Major (also badge engineered as Austin Lancer, Wolseley 1500, Riley 1500) had 1500cc... MORE
Thanks Brad. Happy to volunteer info. My wife is a vet paramedic so we have two dogs and a cat. Do I like them? I don't dis-like them but I don't get enough reward from pets to offset the hassle factor ... if I were not married to Nancy. I absolutely DISPISE animals that climb up on cars! LOL! Zero. Weezles Rip My Flesh DOT 4 I don't do track time so it isn't worth it for me to go through the hassle of purging and rebuilding the system. Besides, I am an engine builded. It's my therapy and... MORE
Hello friends, I am in the middle of a rebuild of my Midget's Weber DGV. This is far from the first DGV I have rebuilt but this time I thought I would share a few pictures and a couple of references. Here is what Pierce Manifolds recommended for the DGV 5A in the Midget 1500 application: Jetting for DGV 5A main 140/135 e-tube F50/F6 air corr 155/160 idle 55/60 needle & seat 200 My carb is correct except for the air corrector jets. My car has installed a 165 primary air corrector jet and a 160 secondary corrector jet.... MORE
Hello folks, I have just joined the midgetsprite list having been advised to get my triumph engined Midget crap off the mgs list. I hope to find a better, more friendly home here. Once we have said hello, I have a couple of chewy engine questions but I'll wait a bit to dump my problems on you. :-] Thanks to the MidgetSprite members who invited me here! rick lindsay / tulsa, ok "Rick Lindsay" 33626... MORE
Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! Special Order, some place like Coker Tire. Check the classic tire dealers a t swap meets 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? eBay!! I found a 67 tonneau and a white top for our 68 on eBay. 3)... MORE
Ah....I percieve, Jens! What they've provided is basically their road "performance" curve contained in their "Y" (yellow) commercially available dizzies. The chart they included is the actual advance curve contained within the distributor. This would be in "distributor degrees" Jens, at "distributor rpm". Double the figures in each case for engine rpm and advance available at the crank. Then add in the initial static timing recommendation (4-6 degrees) to the foregoing figures and you'll know how many degrees you are getting at the crank at any rpm, per their "static" timing recommendation. Now, the above is for academic interest... MORE
Thankyou, Jens.... I am going to assume based upon the information you gave them on compression ratio, they assume you know enough to use the highest legal (unleaded) octane commercially available and in Europe, this is 98RON as far as I know. Did they include any recommendation as to total timing or set-up? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33609... MORE
This stand for HUGE American Car. I'm going to change the brake fluid on the 70 Impala, as it has no viscosity, and is black as swamp water. After I drain the master with a turkey baister, and add the new fluid, I will go for the wheel cylinders. The car has power brakes, so my question is, while bleeding the wheel cylinders, car running, or not running? TIA, Brad Brad Fornal 33595... MORE
Yes, you have to remove the nut, then pull the hub and bearing off. On some cars you can pull them off by hand; on others they are tighter and you'll need a puller. "joe blxfstz" 33548... MORE
Hi, I'm currently in the middle of stripping the rear axle on my '76 1500 midget. The brake drums are off, as are the shoes, slave cylinder and the half-shafts are out, im trying to get the bearing/hub section off so that I can get the backing plate from the brakes off the axle to clean it up and replace the bolts. What is the best way of doing this? Do I just need a 1" 7/8 spanner and just undo it or is there an easier way that I just haven't worked out yet? Thanks in advance Damien... MORE
Thanks Brad I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33550... MORE
Thanks Paul. I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33549... MORE
Hi Lee, If you found a couple of them pitted, then in all likelyhood, the camshaft is damaged. BTW, typically when you are removing tappets and there is no damage to them they sould go back into the same holes they came out of. No mix 'em up here!!. A rattle on acceleration and a rattle on deceleration, doesn't sound like a tappet noise. Tappets are under the same load, accelerating, decelerating, coasting, at idle, etc. That noise doesn't change much. Sounds like bearing problems. Mains and rods are suspect here. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33551... MORE
Hi Lee, Tappet covers are located on the side of the block, underneath the manifolds. Single bolt holds them in place. Tappets can be removed without removing the cam on 948 anfd 1098 engines. The 1275 has no tappet covers, so the cam must be pulled first. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33530... MORE
Can anyone help please? I have a 1098cc MG engine in my 1961 Mk I Frogeye Sprite and have just removed the head for fault analysis for a rattling noise. The Haynes manual (page 37) states there are tappet covers but they are not identified in the exploded view of the engine. Can anyone help to identify where the covers are? and Is it possible to remove the tappets without removing the cam? Many thanks for your help Lee lparke12@... 33529... MORE
