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That copper stuff is okay for anti-sieze, as on threads, but don't use it in wheel bearings or suspension/steering parts. Any major brand of grease indicated for wheel bearings will be fine. The purists here may object, but any name brand of chassis grease will do fine in king pins and tie rod ends. Some like greases containing molybdenum sulfide, but I don't bother with it. You should use gear oil in the steering rack, however. Probably most important is to make sure everything is clean and greased before you put it back together. I once read an article... MORE
Hi guys Sorry for another naive question! Once I've got the bearings out of the hub, I'll be in a position to start reassembling the front suspension. This is a fairly general question, but what kind of grease/anti-seize compound should I be using to assemble the suspension? Actually thats two questions - What kind of grease should I be using to assemble the suspension components?, and what kind of anti-seize compound should I be using on threads and nuts? Generic 'types' would be most useful, as brand names tend to be meaningless if they're only available in the US.... MORE
Nigel, do you mean the oil seal or the grease cap/'welch plug'? The hole in the centre of the inner bearing is smaller than the actual oil seal, and is quite big enough to get a drift through. David "David Jacobs" 26480... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I don't think the splined part unbolts, I think its all in one. I'll have a go at destroying the oil seal, as I think this is what's causing all the problem, I suspect that with that oil seal out of the way, the bearing's will pop out quite easily. I admit to having used so far a length of timber as a drift (as I'm very concerned about scoring/damaging inside of the hub itself) and I don't think I'm getting enough 'whack' on it. I'll try destroying the oil seal, if that doesn't... MORE
Heya 'grumpy' : ) Thanks for your reply! Of course I have a ****ing shop manual but of course the ****ing shop manual only covers removing the bearing from a steel wheel hub and NOT a wire wheel one, hence my confusion as to which side it needs to come out of! To be honest, I think I might just hand it over to a garage and say 'You sort it out! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26478... MORE
David Thanks for the advice, but how do I actually drift the outer bearing out from the splined end, when I cant get a drift onto it, because the oil seal is in the way ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26476... MORE
Nigel, I just did this chore this summer and can pass on the following: To remove the bearing races you need a screw driver/hammer combo. The hub should have two shallow indentations just at the top of the bearing race to place the screw driver tip. Place the tip and tap firmly several times on alternate sides until the race begins to move. Point two. Just rip them greeze seels oucha there! Ya'll gonna hevta buy new 'uns anyhow. Rob C 75 Midget Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 26470... MORE
Nigel, the outer bearing should come out through the splined end, and since this is the smaller diameter, it's easier to do this one first, with a drift from the large diameter side.The large, inner comes out the brake disc side. If they are not moving at all, you can usually break up the bearings just leaving the outer races which you then VERY carefully grind through with a die grinder or similar. Regards David "David Jacobs" 26460... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I've removed everything except the bearing and seals. Which side? I've been trying to drift it out by inserting a drift from inside the splined hub part. I think its the oil seal thats not moving. I've been bashing away at it and it either hasn't moved, or its moved by about 0.5 mil. Any ideas how I can get it to move? I thought about heating up the end, but I'm very concerned about damaging anything. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26459... MORE
Hi guys Anyone know the process of getting the bearing out of a wire wheel front hub? I've tried but don't seem to be getting anywhere. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26451... MORE
Yes... Bill Perry does favor the new synthetic oils as they are simply superior to the mineral oil based products, which BTW are pretty damn good themselves these days. Synthetic also allows for MUCH easier shifting of the box in cold weather, especially subsequent to initial start after the car has been sitting in freezing temps. overnight. However, their "slipperiness" and flow characteristics virtually guarantee that in all cases, you will either "lose" more or "burn" more in either event, the loss of synchronizer action in the gearbox already having been discussed. I had a minor leak in the... MORE
Chris... Interesting question however, did you know that a wider .015, instead of .012 clearance is recommended by the factory for the stock cam when used in "performance" circumstances? I guess the .012 is used for more quiet running under normal or low rpm street applications when top rpm useage will be brief, rather than under cirumstances wherein continuous high rpm running and attendant swelling of parts due to heat is expected. Also, under the latter circumstances, "burning" of a valve will be less likely as well. And, of course, with the wider cleanance, you get faster acceleration ("ramp"... MORE
Nigel, You've removed the dust cover and the cotter pin (you call it something else) and the castleated nut, right? I believe you have to remove the caliper so the whole hub will slide off. Then you take a suitable drift and drive out the bearing from the other side. This is working from a 35 year old memory of having done this, but I'm sure I will be corrected if necessary. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives... MORE
Hi, Bob.... Yes the return springs are installed I have new ones to put in. The butterflies have been modified per Vizard, I wonder if that might have anything to do with the problem. The fast idle screws are not even touching the cam. Something must be holding the butterfly open a little. Off come the carbs tomorrow. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26450... MORE
Hi guys, Finally got some gloss coats on the engine bay and inside the car today. Was wondering, how many gloss coats should I be putting on the engine bay, inside and boot area? I got 5 litres of gloss cellulose and having completed the underside and a first coat on the inside areas its going fast! I was reckoning on about 3 coats for the inside areas? Comments? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26443... MORE
Bob, The accelerator cable is not connected as I am trying to synchronize the carbs. I have had a frayed cable years ago. I'll check the fast run screws. I hope that's the problem. The thought on the spring was that a stiffer spring assuming 4.5 oz/in would result in a higher load being applied to the piston for a given vacuum so the piston would not rise as far due to the load applied. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26448... MORE
also make sure that the choke screws are clearing the choke cam so they are not holding your idle up. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26436... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
Pete, I would endorse Gerard's advice and any others who have suggested the resleeving route. I took their advice around March and had mine resleeved by "Joe" (as I recall, Joe Way) at Sierra Specialties. (Somewhere back early this year in the archive for this list are some threads about resleeving.) The MC really didn't look that bad to me when I took it out, but folks had suggested that some fine pitting not easily seen could be a cause of a soft pedal. It came back from SS immaculate, and after reassembly, the firmness of the pedal was... MORE
Setting the ignition timing made a big difference, it now idles at 1500. I believe that the VP3 cam is causing a large vacuum and the pistons are being raised more than is normal. Cap'n Bob suggested using a stiffer spring in the carbs. Those are on order so next weekend should be the final step in getting the beast sorted. I put 30wt oil in the dampers and that helped with the piston oscillations but they are still more open than I think they should be. Am I correct in thinking the stiffer springs are the right solution... MORE
Martyn, You should be able to kill the motor by lowering the idle screws that hold the throttle plates open. The throttle plates are before the pistons and the only way the pistons will rise is if the throttle plates are open so springs won't do anything for idle - find out why - it is something basic. The throttle plates should close tight enough to hold liquid. Jon "jon paschke" 26430... MORE
You might try going through the group archives, Pete. A while back there was a bit of discussion about having the master cylinder resleeved. That has got to be a lot better priced than buying a new unit. I can remember the name of the place that was said to be avoided but I couldn't locate quickly the place that was recommended. Good luck, Nelson in Medina, Ohio Mk 2 Sprite pieces "Nelson Wittstock" 26419... MORE
Fellow spridgeteers, Just noticed a very slight leak from my dual line master cylinder (78 midget 1500), and it appears I'm going to have to bite the bullet and order a new one from Moss or VB for the handsome price of 200 clams. I checked with Dick Burger at the BPC, and he is willing to part with one for a slightly better sum of ~190 (delivered). Here's the question line. Is it worth my while to order the repair kit, and attempt to fix this (knowing the paramount issue here is safety), or if not, which vendor... MORE
funny amount of positive camber. I did this at an event one time many many years ago. I had help from a friend who should have also known better. We both were on the receiving end of lots of jibes and laughs from all the other club members who witnessed our folly!!! You can check: http://www.ahsdc.org/goblins/tech/frontend.htm for some diagnostics courtesy of the late Bob Gill and Gillspeed. If you don't find anything seriously wrong, then it is time to inspect the engine bay for signs of a smack on the front left side. (substitute front right side in case... MORE
