MAIN

Engine (internal)

 1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |  5  |  6  |  7  |  8  |  9  |  10  |  11  |  12  |  13  |  14  |  15  |  16  |  17  |  18  |  19  |  20  |  21  |  22  |  23  |  24  |  25  |  26  |  27  |  28  |  29  |  30  |  31  |  32  |  33  |  34  |  35  |  36  |  37  |  38  |  39  |  40  |  41  |  42  |  43  |  44  |  45  |  46  |  47  |  48  |  49  |  50  |  51  |  52  |  53  |  54  |  55  |  56  |  57  |  58  |  59  |  60  |  61  |  62  |  63  |  64 

Previous Page | Next Page

All this talk of T.Horlers book on Spridgets made me get my copy out, And I noticed the 1500 RB engines shown in it appear to be painted black with a silver rocker cover, mine isn't, it's a pinkish red metallic colour, not a million miles away from then engine that was in my old 1300 FWD triumph. If it was gold or silver I could understand it, these were recon units. My engine does have remnants of silver paint on the rocker cover though. Stewart General Reality Failure : Reboot Universe "Ford Prefect" 29117... MORE


Hi Curtis It depends (don't you hate answers that start like that) on the model of 66 Midget you're referring to. There were two Midgets made in 66, the MkII 1098 version and the MkIII 1275 version. The later MkIII version would accept the hood mechanism you mention no problem as it remained the same from that point to the end of production (as far as I'm aware). However, if you're talking about the earlier MkII version with the 1098 engine, then no it won't fit, as the cockpit was extended to allow for the new folding hood to... MORE


Likewise, I have a "8G18 - RS57133" 1275 unit which I had also gathered was a gold-seal one, but I never worked out any more info from the rest of the number... "Colonel Mustard" 29097... MORE


I have got what as far as I can make out is a gold seal 1275 unit but I can not find any info on the engine number and was hoping some one can help me it starts 8G which I know to be the gold seal code not and 848 unit but the rest of it is 180ER which apparently means something but can not find any info on. The number also ends in DA "kdb550" 29049... MORE


I think I had better leave it then. Not that I plan to drive with the top up but should I in the future. I do recall now how the top frame on the 62, which did not have a middle rod, had bowed up over the years and I did not get a good windshield seal. Don "Don May" 29036... MORE


As long as you don't drive with the top up take it off, but if you don't want the top to take the windshield top frame off leave it there. Subject: [midgetsprite] Windshield rod ? windshield in the "Jon Paschke" 29031... MORE


Is the rod attached from the center dash to the top center of the windshield necessary for the windshield frame's structural strength? In early models it was used to mount the rear view mirror but later models have the rear view mirror attached directly to the top frame but the rod was still left in place. If it is not necessary to keep the frame from spreading apart in the middle I want to remove it. Don "Don May" 29030... MORE


Hi guys And please don't think I'm now restoring a Mini because I'm not ok ! It's about time I updated you folks on how the Midget restoration's coming on. The bodyshell is now about 90% complete in gloss coat, there's a couple of area's I need to deal with and a couple of panels to finish with 90/10 paint/thinners mix, to bring up the gloss. The bootlid has had 5 or 6 coats of 50/50 and now needs some 70/30, and 90/10 coats. Likewise the passenger door. The drivers door, is in primer now awaiting its first gloss... MORE


Ah, yes... I have to clean the inside of my fuel gauge this spring...the gasket has obviously worn to a point where moisture can condense within. Easiest way I have found is to remove the gauge but, not before I loosen the bracket, pull it out and give it a try from the front. Sometimes it comes off with a little prying and sometimes it won't. At that point removal completely to get a decent grip is the only answer I have found to getting the job done. I reseal them by using black silicone sparingly. Cap'n. Bob '60... MORE


I was thinking in terms of the dyno for correct needle selection, and correct setting of the distributor. Although not totally ignorant, I do not have the experience to set up either properly myself. (there goes the perfectionist again!) I also liked the sound of those rimflo valves, which, together with a few simple head mods, can bring even more of the 'fun factor'. Reading that book has suddenly given me a far greater understanding of why what I discovered over the years was working, actually works. Not only that, I can see how to improve on it. The... MORE


As I recall with the ones I removed completely it did take a bit of gentle prying and breaking loose the hardened rubber seals before the chrome ring could be twisted to its keyed position for removal. At least when you remove one it gives an additional access hole for the others. Getting the old body into the correct position to work under the dash is always a challenge. Not so much getting into position but getting back out is usually the problem. Am I the only person who thinks what may bite me when I push my hand... MORE


I'll leet Nigel answer this one Cap'n but .... If you are talking about the plate I think you are, then according to what I have seen, and backed up by Horler, the plate was rectangular on all cars up to the 1275, at which point it became oval. I am sure that I will now be corrected as I am probably wrong! On another subject, I took the Cap'n's advice and bought the book on engines by Vizard. A fascinating read. I will be undertaking some of those mods. My aim is to look original on the outside... MORE


Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE


I suggested the thermostat, unchanged in 140,000 miles might be stuck open...but would it get more open (opener?) as the engine warmed up? Quiet normal if its engine speed related. more water going through the rad, (water pump speeded up) and more air being foced though the rad (more air taing the heat way fron the water). This is why being stuck in traffice will make a car run hot, no real volume of air cooling the rad and slower water circulation! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 28900... MORE


"VIN Plate" Thank you, Nigel, Roger, etc.! I've never seen an oval one and on my PO'd '74 it was a long rect. plate up by the left corner of the windshield inside the car. OK..."normal"....rect. plate in the engine compartment mounted on a "frame rail" beneath the rear carb. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28907... MORE


Maybe he should try starting the engine? "Guy Weller" 28895... MORE


My cuz in Irving called me this morning. He is having trouble with his 97 F150 6 cylinder 300CID....it is underheating. It will barely move the needle off cool, and after a while, gets even cooler! I suggested the thermostat, unchanged in 140,000 miles might be stuck open...but would it get more open (opener?) as the engine warmed up? What is normal? Any suggestions besides change the thermostat? Robert Houston COP QUOTES "Someone, somewhere is practicing. If you're not, and someday, if you should meet, you will lose." "Shoot them until they think they're dead." "I don't believe they... MORE


Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE


My take on it is this... The prop shaft as a unit, complete with the assembled UJ, does need to be in balance. I believe that they are balanced at the factory, but I don't know to what level of accuracy. I don't think that they are balanced as a unit assembled to the back axle, which is why I contend that the flange joint betwen UJ and axle pinion can be undone and re-assembled without need to mark it. If the prop shaft is balance as a seperate item then it will remain so in either of the... MORE


Hi Everyone I am trying to identify some type of top/cover assembly that a friend has inherited. Possibly someone in the UK can help. A description: It is a vinyl peice aprox. 3'x4' with reinforcment rods under a headliner material attached. It comes with chromed finishing parts for all sides. It also has a piece of curved tinted plexiglass with mounting pins on each end for the front/rear 3' section. Sort of looks like a large sunvisor. The vinyl is flat, no sides or back window section. The Only clue I have is it is made by Slide Away... MORE


Son and the car are in Cincinnati. Body is good, little rust, no collision damage. We took the 1275 and the trany out to inspect, and all seems o.k. Things I think it would need are : Engine gasket set, clutch and slave, Motor mounts, battery and a soft top. If I where nearer I would have had it on the road. We have had it for about a year with no procross except the inspection. He was going to do the body work first and paint, I was more intrested in getting it running, for fun, then paint... MORE


Hi all,l want to fit a pair of speakers in my sprite 67,was going to fit them under the seats but am now thinking of putting them in pods on the rear heel board behind the seats,yes l no they was never made like that but this is a restored car with engine mods etc and is going to be used and not for showing,what do you think please. regards wes "wesley5060" 28818... MORE


Duncan How did it go with sandblasting the engine bay on your car? What media did you use? I am getting ready to undertake the same job. I was also going to use the blaster on the outside of the panels, doors, wings, etc but I was thinking of using plastic beads for that. Have/can you use them in the pressureized sand blaster? Any info is welcome Thanks Mike mk2sprite@... 28817... MORE


Having just broke two propshafts on a test rig and having to do full risk assesment on the items I can say that..... If you completely dissasmble the propshaft then make sure you mark it up and reassemble everything in the same orientation. Most important is that two pins on the Hookes Joints at each end of the shaft are exactly in the same plane. Because of the spline teeth in the sliding part there is only one possible to way to assemble this correctly. (possibly 180 degrees out, but only if the spline has an even Nr of... MORE


Schmidty on the mgbbs spridget technical board is in need of a 1500 engine. He wants to find one locally. I know nothing else, except that there are some Texans on this list. If one of you has a suggestion, maybe you could spring over there and post a note. The thread is titled "engine" Here is the URL: http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&mode=thread&access=&subject=97&source=T&thread 0401290321322738 I know some of your email clients will chop that URL, but I think you can find it. Thanks, in advance "Trevor J." 28805... MORE